Well done! Thank you for the simple tutorial!

Perfect. A great help!

Great tutorial but I must correct one of these tests prodedures. When checking the insulation resistance to ground, you do NOT use a low ohm continuity resistance test meter. Yes it will show up a direct short, but it will not detect a short that appears under mains operating conditions, which is a must!. Therefore you MUST use an insulation test meter. 1. Yes insure the circuit is isolated. 2. Yes, ensure the heater is disconnected from the circuit board to prevent the high insulation test voltages damaging the sensitive electronic components. 3. Place a shorting link (two alligator clips)across both the heater terminals. 4. Connect red lead of your insulation tester to anyone of the heater terminals that are linked. Connect the black lead to the metal body of the heater. Set the meter to megohms and test voltage to twice the working voltage of the component under test ie 500Vdc (Europe) or 230Vdc (US) or as close to this as possible. 5. Carry out the test, insulation resistance must be greater then 1meg ohm. If not the the heater has failed. Note sometimes a low insulation reading could be just damp and drying out will improve the reading. This is a judgment call. Hope this helps

If your interested in determining what the resistance of any heater should be then: Resistance = Voltage squared (V) / Power (W)

The tube has voltage in the water,,,why,,thanks for coment or answer

The J46 connection from the board to heater only has 120v on one terminal not both and it is a 240v system

no power to element how do I test flow switchs

When I touch post and tube I get reading not OL. What does mean?

No voltage on card for heating and the light on panel is on. What is problem???

What if there is no power (220) at the heater terminals? The heat light is lite, but no power going to the terminal, what can cause that. My Spa circuit board it a LB102.

My balboa system runs. But it runs on high heat and high flow. It won't cycle on and off. How do I know if the circuit board is and issue? They ain't cheap.. Suggestions would be appreciated.

What if it's 240v system and only have 120v on one side

HI again, I have got my balboa circuit board back from the repairers. It warms only to 29 degrees even if I have it set for 38 degrees. All relays have been changed. When I lowered the heat to 26, I see the temp light goes off. And I hear a small click. Then I put it back to 38 and get a small click. The heat light then flashes and then is steady after 90secs. but it is not going over 29 ? The fuses look fine, but the big main one is not glass, so would need to check that one. I checked the AC current on the element, with it all powered up, And it read nothing. is this strange or what? The element is warmish to touch not hot to burn yourself. I need to switch it off now to check, the ohms. just checked the ohms, around 18,9-19? What does this mean if it is not around 11 or 12? I don't know where the problem is, any ideas?

5500w at 120v = 45,8 Amp and at 240v = 22,9 Amp 4000w at 120v = 33,3 Amp and at 240v = 16,6 Amp 1000w at 120v = 8,3 Amp and at 240v = 4,6 Amp Un petit ajustement ! Plus la tension est élevée (volts), plus le courant diminu (Amp) C'est la loi d'Ohm ! A small adjustment! The higher the voltage (volts), the higher the current decreased (Amp) This is Ohm's law!

I just gotta say, as someone who owns multiple balboa hot tip heaters, these things feel like a scam and you gotta be a plumber or electrician to maintain them. SMH 😡🤬