Bambu Multicolor Printing Without AMS // 3D Printing Tutorial

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Bambu Multicolor Printing Without AMS // 3D Printing Tutorial

Рет қаралды 20,638

Markury

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 28

@zloyboy8 8 ай бұрын

I've been looking for how to do this for a while now, occasionally checking and giving up. The video was exactly what I needed! I can now print signs with with the text being a different color (It's mainly used for gifts)

@StrangebeanOffitial 3 ай бұрын

if you have tried it does it still do the filament purge thing

@Lebofly 8 ай бұрын

Would have been better without the AI voice :(

@diy_wizard 6 ай бұрын

thank you, just tried it with a p1s and TPU, works great. on the P1s one can also just use the unload and load button on the screen or in bambustudio. Only thing I did wrong is, that the pause is befor and not after the layer.

@SquintyGears 6 ай бұрын

did you do 2 colors of TPU or do you mean you did PLA and TPU? I'm trying to figure out how to do it in a way that the material settings change, feed rate and temps and all that...

@diy_wizard 6 ай бұрын

@@SquintyGears i did tpu on tpu. I also wanted to do PLA on TPU but I don’t know how it will work since I can’t change the whole settings after a pause. Might work if you do it in 2 singe print jobs and the second starting in mid air. I also don’t think that pla will bond to TPU just by printing on top…

@SquintyGears 6 ай бұрын

@@diy_wizard so from my research if you print at 230 or above at the boundary layer they should bond. It's kind of a pain to get the slicer to accept midair objects... I'm doing my first attempt right now. I disabled the prime tower, added a pause at the material change and sent it to the printer as if I had an AMS (I dont) to make it account for material settings hopefully (because TPU needs much slower feedrates) I'll have to manually make sure i purge enough between the two. I don't recommend doing 2 different prints you activate manually because it's hard to disable all the prep steps bambu studio adds (bed leveling purging and all that) and, more importantly, if the bed cools off in between... the print will release and it will fail. That's why the pause is very useful. I'll update on how it goes 👍

@SquintyGears 6 ай бұрын

@@diy_wizard ok so it literally came out so good, just make sure you don't forget to edit the temperature change before resuming.... That corner is pealing a bit (this was just a test print so it's fine). Now I'm going to try and combine double layer 2 color PLA print using z-hop combine with this in the laterhalf of the print Edit: also you can do the bonding layer at half speed to try and give it best chance to stick Edit Edit: if you discord me I can show pictures (same "gamertag")

@SquintyGears 6 ай бұрын

now I need to make a channel and do a tutorial video too...

@luisloboff4839 Ай бұрын

P1s got dissed for no reason. Me and my homies love buttons

@JimmyJokerOfficial Ай бұрын

Thanks for tutorial! how is it possible to do the same thing on multiple prints on the same plate?

@3dvibes1 9 ай бұрын

Is there a way to do that will same layer like for doing costers

@zenginellc 4 ай бұрын

It would likely look better if the top layers were incremented by multiples of the layer-height rather than a full mm as you suggested. So, maybe if the base was 1mm, then the next color would be 1.2mm, then the last color would be 1.4mm? Still cool regardless!

@user-xf5dk5wb3z Жыл бұрын

I was working on a similar print yesterday with slightly thicker layers. The first and second layers went down fine, but by the time I had the 3rd layer loaded in the filament seemed really... different coming out of the extruder. It looks much more like a melted glob than the thin bead of hot plastic I'm used to seeing. Anyway when it would go to apply the 3rd layer literally nothing would come out. It would swish back and forth like a happy little printer doing its job but at best I'd get an occasional whisp. Do you think it was the temp? If so what would I do to reconcile that before resuming the print and why is it happening on the 3rd but not the 2nd?

@pokelolavb4 Жыл бұрын

To small projects - fine, but to a bigger one? Impossible to stay with a 3D printer whole time during printing and changing colors, just buy and AMS or P1S instead of P1P, or just buy some mixed colors filament

@Markury Жыл бұрын

I definitely agree. This process can be fun, but it gets old really quick! I'll admit that I had way more fun doing this method on my old Creality, but the Bambu Lab printers have spoiled me with the "click print and walk away" mentality. I think this method walks the line between using the printer as a tool versus a toy, but I figured some may still benefit from the filament swap technique in this new age of 3D printing. Regardless, thank you for watching Markury and happy printing!

@russnbish 5 ай бұрын

What about K value? it varies depending on the filament. Can I set the K value while manually changing filament?

@Markury 5 ай бұрын

Sadly, as far as I know, the K value is assigned to the filament, but since we’re kind of tricking the printer into using multiple filaments, only one K value can be used for the whole print. However, there may be further developments in the future.

@WTCheatShaming 6 ай бұрын

Its good until someone forgets to tell you that vector AI isnt a free service.

@initialsjd5867 5 ай бұрын

it's just a suggestion, there are plenty of converters free off charge

@user-sy1rt6kx9k Жыл бұрын

cool

@Edramon53 Жыл бұрын

When I saw the [thumbnail] title I was rather hoping for something like these, translated to Bambu without using AMS. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qp6Ao7SlrtS6mHk.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gbxidM2q1N28iGg.html P.S. Filament swaps on the P1P are just as easy as with the X1 touch screen. Or you can use the slicer, or the app if you don't like the printers UI, but for load & unload the printer UI is just fine.

@Edramon53 Жыл бұрын

Just watched a couple more of your videos - I'm pretty new to this myself but I think something might be off with your settings or your filament. I've not had that much stringing on my P1P outside of a calibration print and it's consistently like that through the videos I looked at. The content of your videos is fine but they'd probably look more professional (not sure that's the word I'm after but it'll do) if you take some time to calibrate that filament in your slicer. Or if it's already calibrated, see if the filament needs drying.

@Markury Жыл бұрын

Hi there! Thank you so much for tuning in to Markury and I really appreciate the suggestions. I think the stringing in the video was definitely due to wet filament- I do have a dry box but honestly I've accumulated so much filament it won't fit in there anymore! I'm also looking at OrcaSlicer for more in-depth manual calibration. If you have any more tips I'd love to hear them! I also recently made a video detailing a process like the one you linked by Make Anything, but just demonstrating it on a Bambu Lab printer. (You can check it out here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gquPa8iondOXcnU.html ) I think Devin's video is definitely better and goes into more detail, but I just wanted to spread the word about this method now that I know about it. Again, I sincerely appreciate your comments and hope to see you again soon here on Markury. Have a great day and happy printing!

@vitezslav-jaros 6 ай бұрын

this is awesome idea