What distance were you at when you shot bare shaft through paper?

Great point.

Thank you! Feel free to reach out if you have any questions. Keep it in the middle

Thanks! Feel free to reach out with any questions

@@InsideOutPrecision Thanks man will do. I have the same bow and loving it. Bare shaft tunned it to perfection using your info 👊 I was wondering...why you don't use a back bar for hunting?

Thanks! Glad you're finding the channel helpful 👍

Agreed. My fixed blades fly right with my field points out to about 70yds, then start impacting low. But that's because there's more drag

No the rest movements are the same whether you're rigjt or left handed

Yes, "spining" ( dynamic tuning ) definitely helps, especially with small diameter shafts. It ensures they all cone out the bow flexing the exact same way. Thanks for watching man, good shooting to you!

It's hard to be accurate enough beyond 20 yard to tell you anything.

Fixed broadheads will shoot like field tips using this method of tuning. Once you're tuned in this method you will have no worries.

Yes, thats how you tune those

You can be just get out there focus on ur hand placement an everything else will fall into place maybe take ur bow to your local pro shop an make sure everything is in time an square thats a good starting point.

No don’t touch your rest. Just move the cams

Nock tuning can help define the stiffer side of the arrow... This is ubertuning though, you need to be good good to be able to even tell... If your having trouble effectively bareshaft tuning you either have a bow tune issue or a form issue...bare shaft tuning, nock tuning require a tuned bow and rock solid shooting form and are at the end of the process...you dont just go out and shaft tune.

Sounds like too stiff of an arrow spine. Whats your spine/arrow length?

Inside Out Precision 330spine 27 1/2 length I had these arrows paper tune last year but for some reason I cannot get them to do it now

Simple. Use the spine aligned arrow to tune. Once youve got bullet holes fletch the rest and shoot. If they don't group well or have clean flight rotate the nock to different positions until they're shooting good. It's called nock tuning

I actually have a video where I talk about arrow spine! If you have any specific questions though I'd be happy to answer them!

@@InsideOutPrecision I've had a look at the spine video and understand arrow spine and how to select and tune arrows as I've shot olympic recurve and can bareshaft + paper tune my recurve bow and also use the Easton chart to pick a suitable shaft for tuning However with my compound I've not been getting decent groups and for the past few days I've been trying to paper tune but can't seem to get a tail right high tear out At 30" - 6 feet from the paper I almost get a bullet hole, sometimes nock height is level but I get a slight right tear other times nock high right tears..... I've shot with the string away from my face just incase it was face contact on the string but there was very little difference... At short distances I can get the bullet hole I've moved the rest, adjusted the rest height and tension on the rest from super stiff to almost holding the arrow weight... But if I step back say 5 yards I get nock high right tear... I can fine tune the nock high but not the nock right as the tear is around 2"+ I've shot with open relaxed hand and normal grip with a finger sling I've even cranked the bow down 6 turns to reduce the weight but no difference and shot with and without stabilisers I've shortened my drawlength from 27" to 26.5" but the only difference is I feel cramped on the 26.5" so have gone back to 27" otherwise I have to raise my bow shoulder to accommodate the shorter drawlength, with the 27" my release elbow is a little low but the shots are consistent because I can get the shafts to touch at 10 yards... I can draw level and bring the hand to anchor without craning my neck to find the peep so it feels comfortable and can handle the bow weight (my recurve I shoot 26.5" drawlength and 47# on the fingers) I've shot pulling hard into the stop to having just enough pull to hold it in the valley, no difference other than the feeling of the shot... Using a thumb release truball max pro 4... I can trigger it using my thumb or pull through the shot using arm/back tension with my thumb wrapped around the trigger I have a PSE stinger extreme, draw weight approx 50# (measured at 49.6# using my digital scale) My arrows are Easton XX75 platinum plus... 2016 at 29" and Easton XX75 platinum plus... 2013 at 28"... I think the point weight is the standard nibb that's around 70grn The 2013 show less of a right tear but still nock high Shooting with the fletch and bareshafts at 10 yards.. Unfortunately that's all I have at home I can get the arrows to group within an inch of each other and the bareshaft lands left of the fletched arrows with nock kicked up within an inch of the group If I watch the arrow flight there is a kick right of the nock which shows up on the paper tune at around 5 yards The only thing I haven't tried is cutting down the shafts to 27"... I have an arrow saw so can try that but if the arrow isn't right, then will that help? Are the arrows weak or stiff... Kinda hard to work out for compounds... Recurve finger release its a stiff reaction The cable guard has enough fletch clearance approx 1/8 of an inch+... I've also tried moving that Arrow is level and centre shot as close to straight as I can get it The question is how do I use the chart... Do I use the ATA bow rating 316 with my drawlength and draw weight to select the spine group or do I need to buy a chronograph and measure the speed at my drawlength I'm interested in target compound and not hunting and would like to progress further with this.. Just having a hard time at the moment getting consistent groups out to 18m/20 yards at the club

@@b12khx89 whoo, that is a lot to take in. What kind of rest are you running? For a right handed shooter a tail right/high tear that won't leave is usually a sign of too stiff an arrow. Try increasing point weight. The rest will have a lot to do with it as well. Cable driven drop aways sometimes don't support the arrow long enough for bows with nock travel, which the stinger does.

@@InsideOutPrecision the rest is an avalon tec one rest... Nothing fancy but I did try and move it to tune and it ended up looking like the arrow was pointing away from the bow more than my recurve has ever done so I've gone back to all square I'm still working on my form and using my old recurve arrows in the meantime, the XX75 platinum plus are limited for different points with heavier weights so kinda stuck there... I'm not shooting compound for competition yet but would like to get better so tested it via the paper tune as I can see weird arrow flight if I watch the arrow I wondered how you would use the Easton guide to select an arrow as it has different ATA speed ratings and using the bow weight and drawlength information it kinda puts me in T6/T7...which is probably wrong I am working on getting a form video done for you... The UK weather is getting better so I'll be in touch via your instagram

@@b12khx89 that rest could definitely be part of the problem. I'd try a limb driven drop away like the Vapor Trail Gen7. Also I'd recommend going to an all carbon arrow in a 400 spine cut at 27-27.5". As far as paper tuning, I generally just paper tune at 6-10 feet and get a bullet hole with a bare shaft and a fletched shaft, then shoot them at 20yds and micro adjust my rest until they hit together. Definitely send me a video when you get a chance!

I’m having the same issue.

@@jeremyanderson5752 I watched other videos which talked about how paper tuning at 5 yrds is optimal. Further back is giving the arrow too much time to react to the forces applied to it giving misleading results. Depending of course on many factors including spine, tip weight and draw weight. I paper tuned at 5 yrds and moved on. I'm shooting 6" groups at 60 yrds. I feel like I should focus on my form now at trust my setup. Cheers!

Have you checked vane clearance? Sharpie on rest and check for Mark's on flethings.

Most people use waxed butchers paper, the same stuff that is used for wrapping briskets and the like in bbq. the waxed paper only shows true tears

Unfortunately most companies only honor their warranty with the original buyer. That really sucks that happened to you though, usually a used bow is legit!

@@InsideOutPrecision Yea I know most companies only warranty new bows. I consider myself lucky that I was only into this NO CAM for $80 before it broke so getting it fixed was still a no brainer. I was just thinking that other people may benefit (especially new archers) from a video on what to look for if they are buying a used bow.

You have to think the weight of the Fletching and glue etc. Are going to add weight which will give you a greater gap at distance

He said it backwards then what it was shooting. Nock high left he said right.

Or you just move it and shoot again haha.

Keep your center shot at 13/16. Left tear, move your cam to the left with top hats first. Rest goes to the right only on final micro adjustment. Cams follow the tear, rests go opposite tears.

We just get it at office max

Stephane Piat good question. I have my powermax set ~1/8” nock low, otherwise my bottom cam needs to be advanced to the point where the wall gets mushy

We have some on order, but haven't got to play with them yet. If it's similar to the cocking mechanism that rip cord or QAD uses, it's gonna have issues haha. But if it works it will be awesome!

@@InsideOutPrecision If you could do a review on them that would be great! I'd definitely get one if they are good to go.

It would actually stiffen the spine, but I haven't ever had an issue with it. 18 grains would never be enough to effect a tear that bad

That bow is pretty difficult to paper tune so they probably didn't take the time to.

By what your tear looks like through paper. Leave the rest in center shot and move the cam right/left based on your tear.

You can add a wrap if you want, but I've never had an issue not having one. I suppose if you really want to mimic your vane weigjt you could though. Those mini blazers only weight 12 grains (all 4) and wraps only weight 7. Thats barely more than the weight nock so it shouldn't have any effect

Honestly this is more of a target archery tuning method. Get a bullet home from 5 yards with a fletch shaft and your broad heads should fly really well

Well they should be using the yokes to tune, not the rest. After a couple twist in/out of the yokes you can move the rest but it's not the first move.

There are no top hats on that model. The Halon was the first model with top hats

I asked him about doing the yoke adjustments. He said his experience with the Matthews doing yoke changes causes cable wear problems. Im going to try shooting a less heavy FOC and if i cant get a bullet hole i will look for a Matthews dealer in my area. Thank you

@@thomashood3748 yeah I've never seen any more or less wear on the cables from yoke tuning, but maybe he has!?

Yep! It was only about ⅛" so I just used the rest because the top hats would have over corrected the problem. Thanks for watching!

Man I wish I could tell you. Other than just playing around with the recurves we have at the shop, I've never spent time behind one.

Well the moving the tops hats will lean the cams in order to tune. Worked the same way with your hoyt. Lean the cam right or left to take out a right or left tear through paper. It doesn't hurt anything. If its shooting good holes through paper just leave it alone

Correct

@@InsideOutPrecision Is it necessary to strip off the fletchings off all your arrows and bare shaft tune all your arrows or just have one bare shaft arrow to work with fletched arrows?

Yes you can definitely use the yokes and not mess with the rest!! And yeah, paper tuning is usually just a starting point

No its the same

Yeah just leave your rest centered and move top hats. That's how they're designed to be tuned

Yeah I'd take your arrows to tune it. Make sure they know what they're doing when it comes to bare shaft tuning. Some times they will make things worse if they don't know how to read it properly haha!

Inside Out Precision Oh man! I hope they do!😬

Hasn’t in my experience. But if you were really on the bubble of being under spines I suppose the extra 20 grains could make a difference

The weight of the vanes is negligable. Generally you won't see a spine issue through paper unless it's way too stiff or too light. But if you get a bullet hole through paper and then your bare shaft impact way right or left of your fletched shaft, then you'll k ow you're too weak or stiff. What draw length are you shooting?

@@InsideOutPrecision I am shooting a 29 inch draw length.

If you watched the video it should have answered your question