It’s one of my all time favorite fixed blades in that size. I didn’t expect 215. Not even close. Haha! Thanks man!👊💪🤣🤘

Right! Crazyness man! Thanks!👊💪

Got that right brother! Haha! If you know you know. I’m so smitten for the Cub. Thanks man!👊🤣🤘

@@WhatsthePOINT_EDC you have another Barkie coming to you The Sidekick designed by Apostle P.

Hell yea man! RMJ has awesome knives. Thanks man!👊💪

Roman Landes Heat Treatment recommendation: Now this is what I would recommend for heat treat cpm 3v: 1st preheat: 500-600°C, equalize 2nd preheat:800-900°C, equalize Authenize: 1060-1070°C, equalize, soak 30-35min Quench in Oil preheated 60-80°C Cryo: immediately after cleaning, minimum -80°C or lower soak 30min 1st Temper: 150°C equalize, soak 2hrs, quench in water Cryo: immediately after temper 2nd Temper: 180-200°C equalize, soak 2hrs should give you 60+ and a fine durable grain. RGDS Roman This is why I would do it like this. The "receipt" suitable is for a vacuum furnace (Quench with maximum pressure) or a regular cline, but surface protection has to be assured. Salt bath will cut the soak time approximately by 1/3 and thus give better aust-grain. The preheating steps will assure the the austenization steps can be done quick. Quicker speed >> smaller grain Authenization temperature is dedicated to dissolve Chrome and Molybdenum >> fair hardness and some enhanced "Stainresistance" is to be expected. The vanadium will remain in the steel bond as a compound of carbon, hence aust-grain cant really grow The oil quench is suitable for any steel out of the air hardening classes. The thin cross sections get higher hardness after quench (greater volume fraction of martensite) and a less stabilized volume fraction retained austenite. (The volume fraction of RA can be expected (near guess) between 20 and 30% or even higher) Warping of the blade shall not be an issue with these materials. If you have done a lot of hard mechanical work before hardening (milling, grinding,)then do a stress relief so warping gets less likely. The cryo needs to be done as quick as possible below -80°C. RA tends to stabilize rather quickly after the quench (some reports speak of minutes) The longer you wait, the less efficient the transformation to untempered martensite will be. And a minimum of -70°C is necessary to get enough stress into the micro structure, so the transformation (RA>>Martensite) process can restart again. Extensive soak time is not necessary since the process runs at hypersonic speed. But still there will be remains of RA that need to be addressed by the 2nd cryo. The first temper is a low temper so the remaining RA is stabilized at the lowest level possible and at the same time there is enough stress relief in the martensite that has been built and furthermore the transformation from tetragonal to cubic martensite is started. The water quench speeds the whole thing up and avoids precipitation of embrittling phases. Then the rest of the remaining RA will be attacked by the 2nd cryo (usually the RA will drop below 5% volume fraction) so burr formation is less likely. 2nd temper will now temper the untempered martensite build up by the cryo and bring the blade to a fully tempered martensitic structure with a low volume fraction of RA and a fair amount of carbides undissolved. Of course there is the question why not temper it at 540°C? First of all, if you don't have access to cryo then this is your way to go. In my studies of edge stability I did extensive work to compare secondary hardening and low temper with cryo. The results (reference is my graduate thesis 1999 Munich University of Applied Sciences) I found considerable higher edge stability with the samples that had low temper/cryo The material used at the time was ATS-34 all with the same charge and thus the same condition of austinization, but with different temper cycles. RGDS Roman

Delta3v was pioneered by Carrothers performance knives and is a variation of the low temp temper protocol that Roman Landes made above.

Right. Peter’s does good with 3V. I’m a fan of Bark Rivers 3V. Survive used Peters and the Delta Protocol in theories 3V. I haven’t done extensive edge retention testing with a BUCH of different companies 3V so I don’t know how they differ. I have tested a few Bark Rivers, and one Bench Made 3V knife so far. BR did better in my opinion. A lot better. Thanks man!👊💪

​@@WhatsthePOINT_EDCwhile Peter's does a good heat treatment, bark river will burn the edges when grinding and sharping after heat treat. If the heat treat has tempers above 930f, it usually will not affect the edge much. This type of protocol that is above 930f is called secondary hardening.

Convex edges will have lower edge retention than v edge with a guided system.