Basic Lightsaber Weathering Tutorial: A look at the techniques I use to weather a Lightsaber hilt.

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Paul's Stuff

Paul's Stuff

Жыл бұрын

This is a tutorial video showing the basic techniques I use when weathering my lightsaber hilts. It is a scary process to embark on as it does involve damaging the surface of the hilt a little and using paint on it. But by having a little courage and taking things slowly and a little bit at a time you can also achieve these sort of effects. All the paints used here are Tamiya modelling acrylics, the washes are from the Mig Ammo range and the clear coats are from the Tamiya TS model making spray paint range. The brushes used here are flat artists brushes with synthetic bristles from The Works. Old worn brushes are great for the techniques shown here as the worn bristles add to the randomness of the paint being applied.
Of course you use the techniques shown here at your own risk, they may make changes to your hilts look that you cannot reverse easily.
If you are looking for a saber of this type or better with more choice, I highly recommend buying from Padawan Outpost. They hold all their own stock here in the UK (so no drop shipping) and their customer service is awesome. Quick delivery too. A great UK based family run business.
Padawan Outpost:
padawanoutpost.com
I get most of my custom sound fonts from 3 different font creators:
KSith:
www.ksithsaberfonts.com
Kyberphoic:
www.kyberphonicfonts.com
Ronin Sabers:
www.roninsabers.com/shop/3663...
The Detailing parts for my sabers come from a number of sellers including:
Wanna Wanga for lots of detail pieces:
wannawanga.com
The Saber Armory for Smugglers Outpost speakers, as well as many other saber related products:
thesaberarmory.com
The materials to make my daylight blades are purchased from JQ sabers:
www.jqsabers.com
The Custom Saber shop is a great place for parts:
www.thecustomsabershop.com
The wall brackets I use to display my lightsabers can be found here:
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...
For information on how to work with the Xenopixel electronics board I would recommend a KZfaq channel called Absolute Sabers who post great tutorials on how to update firmware, configure, add fonts etc…
Absolute Sabers:
/ absolutesabers
You can find me of Facebook here: / paul.silverlock
and on Instagram @paulsilverlock
Please also check out these great Star Wars communities and Costume groups on FaceBook too.
Vaders Raiders Star Wars Costume Group:
/ 1772895479681566
Jakas Wonderful World of Star Wars:
/ 4938380616277140
Bantha Bricks Star fans of Wars Lego Group:
/ starwarslegogroup
Iconic Legion Costume Group:
/ iconic-legion-21915479...
Imperial Outlanders Costume Group:
/ imperialoutlanders

Пікірлер: 25
@SLO7HProductions
@SLO7HProductions Жыл бұрын
Finally a good video on weathering, thanks!
@paulsstuff1969
@paulsstuff1969 Жыл бұрын
You're welcome, I'm pleased you found it helpful.
@SLO7HProductions
@SLO7HProductions Жыл бұрын
@@paulsstuff1969 I have a question regarding the Ammo MIG Varnish. Since these are acrylic, how durable is it? I just applied 4 very thin layers with an airbrush and now 6 hours later, it looks so good. I will be waiting 24 hours though before handling it. But this is also a thin neck Obi Wan, and I use the thin neck for spinning. I read that you can clean Acrylic varnish with water, but does that apply to dried varnish? I am not someone with sweaty hands, but over time there would be some wear. So I guess I need to apply a new layer once in a while?
@paulsstuff1969
@paulsstuff1969 Жыл бұрын
@@SLO7HProductions I don't have any experience with Mig varnishes and clear coats I'm afraid. I only use Mig washes and occasionally their paints. I always use Tamiya clear coats from their rattle can range which are also acrylic I believe. A lot of the durability will come from the preparation of the surface. Many of these sabers have extremely smooth Chrome like finishes which will not retain paint finishes of any kind well without first being 'keyed' up with a fine grade sand paper (500-1000 grit) or something like a scotch pad prior to the clear coat being applied. Even with this kind of prep any paint surface is liable to wear under any repeated rubbing or friction, like that caused by spinning, so occasional re-coats will probably be needed. I normally apply 2-3 thin coats with about 40mins to an hour between coats. I then leave this to dry for as long as possible but 24Hrs at a bare minimum drying time. Once fully cured acrylic paints can be wiped down with water with little to no ill effect, but be aware that for more mat surfaces any rubbing or cleaning like this will start to polish the surface and may add to any sheen. I hope this helps a little with what you were asking😀
@SLO7HProductions
@SLO7HProductions Жыл бұрын
@@paulsstuff1969 thanks. I will be testing it once I have completed the install of electronics.
@AMC526
@AMC526 3 ай бұрын
This is amazing I’m just scared to tell my friends I like this stuff
@paulsstuff1969
@paulsstuff1969 3 ай бұрын
Hi and thanks for taking a look at the channel. Plenty more stuff like this on here to enjoy. My advice would be not to be too bothered about what others think and to do what you enjoy😉
@andyturner6175
@andyturner6175 Жыл бұрын
Paul that looks amazing! Really great. Thanks for the video. Been after a guide on weathering for my obi wan episode 4 Saber too. And I think I now have the confidence to do it. Really helps to have the specific washes as often these videos are by US folks that use products that we can’t get here.
@paulsstuff1969
@paulsstuff1969 Жыл бұрын
@andyturner6175, Thank you for the positive feedback and I am glad you liked the results from the techniques used here. Take things steady and build your washes up in layers and you will be fine. I generally use Mig Ammo washes as they are very effective and freely available here in the UK. I buy them from Amazon. When you use them remember to keep them stirred regularly as the pigments in them will tend to settle out quite quickly.
@andyturner6175
@andyturner6175 Жыл бұрын
Thanks Paul. Specifically which ones did you use here? The dark wash for the black and then a brown enamel one? I tried to Amazon search them and wasn’t sure it was the right one. Will watch your video back. Thanks for the advice. Fingers crossed it’ll go ok!
@paulsstuff1969
@paulsstuff1969 Жыл бұрын
@@andyturner6175 the washes I used here were mig ammo dark wash which is an acrylic wash. The brown one is mig ammo tracks wash which is an enamel wash
@jonas8385
@jonas8385 Жыл бұрын
You're an artist with a saber Paul! Thanks so much! I'll try to do this with my Luke Ep6 saber to make it a little more movie accurate. Just got to get rid of the nerves that come with sanding the saber hahaha 😅 Hope you're enjoying the holidays!
@paulsstuff1969
@paulsstuff1969 Жыл бұрын
Thank you Jonas, I really appreciate the feedback. I would go with just the 320 grit and 500 grit sanding for an ep. 6 Luke hilt. You can achieve the same effect as the rougher grits but it will just take a little longer. Gives you a bit more margin for error😉. Nerves are normal with this sort of thing. I get a bit anxious about the outcome even after having done this several times, in a way it helps a bit as it makes you a bit more cautious😅😅. Take your time, do things a little at a time and I’m sure you will be fine.
@jonas8385
@jonas8385 Жыл бұрын
@@paulsstuff1969 I'll take that into account, thanks! If I just want to remove the LGT chrome finish on my sabers, will simply sanding it do? Or will I have to use the washes to hide scratch marks? I also have a graflex and a darth vader hilt and I want them to look like how they did in the 70's and 80's but not too dirty or weathered.
@paulsstuff1969
@paulsstuff1969 Жыл бұрын
@@jonas8385 to remove the chrome look I would lightly sand with 500 grit first and then spray with a semi gloss clear coat. That will dull down the chrome finish. You could just spray the clear coat on but the light sanding gives a slightly keyed surface. Without the sanding the clear coat will struggle to adhere and will wear off more easily. The washes are what provide the dirtier look. Most OT hilts look more dirty than prequal hilts. You can build up the washes gradually till you get the look you desire.
@sithsabers
@sithsabers 9 ай бұрын
Fantastic job. Im going to do this to mine mate
@paulsstuff1969
@paulsstuff1969 9 ай бұрын
I’m so pleased this video has inspired you to have a go.
@sithsabers
@sithsabers 9 ай бұрын
@@paulsstuff1969 I've done it looks great! Great vid cheers dude
@paulsstuff1969
@paulsstuff1969 9 ай бұрын
@@sithsabers Awesome. So glad this was helpful for you.
@lukelewis1411
@lukelewis1411 Ай бұрын
Hi Paul great tutorial. I’m wondering if I need to remove electronics before going in with the wash/paint? Thanks!
@ForemanForce2001
@ForemanForce2001 Жыл бұрын
amazing how much depts weathering adds
@paulsstuff1969
@paulsstuff1969 Жыл бұрын
Yes it certainly adds to the look and interest of a piece.
@cbodall
@cbodall Жыл бұрын
Do you have a link to the saber hook stands on your wall?
@paulsstuff1969
@paulsstuff1969 Жыл бұрын
The brackets I use to support my hilts on the wall are actually made for hanging guitars. I buy them from Amazon here: www.amazon.co.uk/MOREYES-Hangers-Acoustic-Electric-Guitars/dp/B083SH5ZF5?pd_rd_w=xXMCO&content-id=amzn1.sym.e9c30756-181a-4068-ac3a-74afd7f110a2&pf_rd_p=e9c30756-181a-4068-ac3a-74afd7f110a2&pf_rd_r=86YRTT3QPNXXH66PWVS9&pd_rd_wg=d2Jx7&pd_rd_r=ff20ef15-7ad6-49e8-8b38-e916cc1a7960&pd_rd_i=B083SH5ZF5&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_t
@aerielamccammack6989
@aerielamccammack6989 Жыл бұрын
Wow! Amazing job! Do not miss out = *Promo SM*!!!
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