What sets you apart from all the rest is the excellent "why" in addition to how. Thank you

Hey Joe, Great video with plenty of important tips, HOWEVER, there is a VERY important one you missed out. That is, NEVER grind a top rake or chip breaker into the top of the blade. Because the blade is either tapered or hollow ground, as soon as you cut deeper than the grind depth, the tool will bind. That is because when you grind the tool top, the blade becomes thinner in width and will cut a narrower slot, and when it tries to cut past the grind depth, the tool being wider will jam and may break. Some other great tips for the un-initiated users out in KZfaq Land are as follows :- When parting off bolts / all thread, initially only have enough blade sticking out to just get past the thread depth. When the tool is ground with a slight taper as you showed to not leave a pip on the finished part, it will want to try and follow the thread helix, causing the tool to flex sideways. Once you are cutting a smooth diameter, then extend sufficient blade to finish cutting off the part. When parting off a large diameter, say 2 inch, start off with only a short length of blade sticking out. Then as the cut gets further in gradually pull out more blade. Because the tool is at an angle in the holder, you will need to lower the tool holder height slightly to bring the cutting edge back onto center height. When parting off, try and not be too timid with the hand feed, once it starts to cut, keep the feed going at a constant rate. Hope this helps, keep up the great video’s and well done for getting over 3,000 subscribers so quickly.

Chatter recovery, running in reverse!! Crazy, brilliant. Always worth watching your work, thanks for sharing your hard won experience.

Important stuff like this was never taught to me in dental school. Your videos are really helping me with all my self taught machining on my various projects. Thanks!

Great video. I really like these types of videos. Really appreciate how you take the time to present the topic in detail and then go out to the shop and show us the process.

Parting tool performance is without a doubt the most developed " feel" you will ever have to master on a lathe. ALL of your info on tool shape and set-up is exactly correct. You have saved many less experienced machinists hours of misery at the hands of a parting tool. The most important piece of advice is NEVER to use the power cross feed. Develop the feel for the feed. You can avoid a lot of chatter problems by feeling the cut.

To cut a long story short, I mat some teachers that they know their stuff in a extraordinary way, like you do, but with the difference that they can't transmit knowledge. You instead have BOTH...good on you..!!, and THANK YOU.

Joe, I am not a machinist but a hobbyist and you're right, parting operations are a nightmare; busted a cobalt blade just yesterday! Your videos are not overlong and I find that if you understand the theory you can better understand the practice. Keep it up!

When my old man had to make a bunch of washers/spacers,he would plunge in almost to the diameter of the bore,then make a finish pass on the bore,and the parts would 'plink'.... end up on the bar. Try it

I make my parting tools from old carbide tipped saw and dado blades. Parting tools in my price range were disappointing at best. I was sceptical at first but it works well for me. This is about the best basics video I have seen. You have a knack for teaching. There are a handful of people on youtube that are good at both machining and teaching. You are one of them. Keep it up.

Joe, fantastic video. You are a very good machinist but your best quality is your ability to communicate. You are amazing. Parting has been a challenge for me but I came up with a method that works every time without fail (with power feed). In my opinion (and I suspect you will agree) the very biggest reason for failures while parting tool movement. When something isn't solid you get chatter and sometimes it grabs bad enough to break the blade etc. The reason an upside down tool helps is that if something moves it climbs out of the cut rather than into the cut. When you cut from the front the amount of back rake can amplify the problem. A negative back rake will be much less likely to dig into the work but does not cut very well. I have small old lathes with screw on chucks that are not very solid but what I came up with is nearly fool proof. Oh... and I used the same blade profile you do, absolutely the best! Leave me a comment and let me know what you think. Thanks! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fq1xhKub383XaZc.html

Love the Joe Pieism "By it Nice and you won't have to buy it Twice". Another classic, Thanks.

Sounds much simpler now the basics have been explained thanks for answering so many questions Brisbane Oz

Mr. Joe, I really love your videos and you are a very good teacher. As I asked Keith Fenner years ago, " Please more light on the operation " I know it is a hassle but we would all like to see better detail of your explanation and demonstration. Thank you so very much. Richard

It's a joy watching your work, your ability to explain is sublime. I wish teachers of this watch you and get some tips of how to do it properly. Thanks for all the work you put in to all these videos.

Joe, I had quit using my parting tools altogether. I just couldn't get it right. I saw you video and took notes and now..no problem! I still can't get over how smooth it works! I originally got to your videos by accident while researching threading. I formerly had a gunsmith business and for years stayed puckered up when threading to a precise shoulder I had just meticulously created where the barrel and action mated. Since learning your reverse threading procedure it is super simple. So logical, wonder why I never heard of it before. Now I try to watch all you videos for the shear entertainment and knowing I will pick up some tip. You are unselfish with your knowledge and it is appreciated! God Bless!

Thanks, being self taught this was great, covered all the errors I have done so far trying to part, and hopefully saved me from new ones in the future.

best metal working videos I've seen anywhere on the web Joe!.. and I knew about a minute and a half into the first one I watched. thanks for posting them!

Sometimes the simplest operations get overlooked.Thanks, for taking the time to explain. :) Fred, UK

One word says it all -- "Excellent".

Joe, you rock. As someone who's been a machinist for all of 6 months, I learn more from your videos than any other resource I've found. Just wanted to say "thanks" :)

Nice demo. The only comment I would add is: Keep the parting tool cutting. Tool pressure is your friend here.

Hi Joe At 83 I'm probably your youngest fan!!! Seriously, you are my guru in all things lathe, and I hae learned a lot from every one of your videos. You've turned me into a fair sort of lathe worker and I cannot thank you enough. May you outlive a lot of lathes!

Thank's Joe,I can see you are a man dedicated to quality work.Even though I am retired and this is a hobby,I love learning.I probably retired to early at 55,I'm now 72,but still remarkably fit.I was in aviation (military)most of my life,Flt engineer up through C-5,run qualified engine mechanic.Machining fills a technical need I have yet..My work space is small and two 9 inch south bends,and one Burke mill horizontal is all I have in my arsenal.at present.I make no excuses,as I believe high quality work is up to the man.I love this work and congratulate you on sharing your knowledge.It is a fine endeavor

One of the best lubricants after a mishap using the power feed for parting is a 1/2 pint of whisky. It will get you back in the saddle in no time. Kerosene mixed with mineral oil AKA ISO 46 is one of my go to homemade lubricants from homing stones, emery cloth, locks to cutting, parting and threading. It even kills aphids, web worms to fleas on a dog and mites on a hog. Dog needs bath after treatment. Another in depth video by Joe that went far beyond the average KZfaq video on the subject. Job well done. Worth Bastrop Texas.

I started watching your various videos and have learned a lot, although I have been machining for over 30 years, these are basics that every wannabe machinist should know if they are to be successful at machining.

Joe, Just had a bad day with my insert parting blades, shattered 4 inserts in the space of an hour. So I found my one tapered HSS blade, ground as per your suggestion and finished my little project! The HSS blade worked like a champ! Thanks for your help!

A great tutorial thank you. I was so frustrated trying to make a number of 4mm washers cut from 3" dia stainless steel. I watched, listened and absorbed the information you offered. Finally, success! Thank you.

Joe, Realy!!, i realy want to thank you for this goldmine of knowledge transfer, im a 52 year old industrial mechanic and have done years of occassional machining and all my tips and tricks were given to me by masters of machine shops like you, no school is better than having on hands advice, i have a full machining course and a college degree in mechanical engineering and not ounce in school i received critical detailed good advice or suggestions that you and other top machinists ive worked with gave me, Realy THANKS! Joe

Another video with great information!!! The one thing I learned the hard was is if you plunge the parting tool in too quickly the tip will break off in the up direction with the tip going strait up past your face. Luckily it missed. Chris

Thanks for all the pointers on the parting tool. It has always been the worst tool for me to use on the lathe. I have had a few failures and have been using the saw since the last one. But after your pointers I parted off a 1.25 steel slug with zero issues. Thanks Keep up the good work.

Good tip on the "run the lathe in reverse with the tool upside down to remove chatter marks". I'll have to think about the consequences of using a tool holder with the built in inclination and how to get around that. Yet another super video. This and your other videos will be good for coming generations as well. Good indeed.

Lots of great information here. I've had plenty of problems with this operation and your video will help a lot.

Great presentation. I know the danger of using the tail center for support, but I use it to advantage until I get near the end of the cut. I also frequently back out the tool to widen the slot in case it is not set absolutely square to the work.

learning doesn't get better than this, especially since the hard chair bottom is now a sofa, but seriously, Mr. Pieczynski, what a great resource you're providing. Thanks! I have two small lathes and a mini mill, and increasingly need them for the precision they bring.

I have a small shop where i do a little bit of everything . And can't remember how many times I wished I had a lathe an a mill so I could make the part I needed. I have just gotten myself a lathe an mill and I'm so glad I found your channel. I appreciate you taking the time to explain everything in such detail . I have learned a lot. Again thanks.

Thank you for your tips. Thoughtful and educational. I too have had some parting tool nightmares. Couple comments though. For an older lathe, one with wear, I have had much better success with the parting tool 1/64 to 1/32 above center. Anything less causes the parting tool to be drawn into the work due to excessive backlash in the top slide for cross slide. I too like the truncated triangular HSS parting too. Chatter is significantly reduced or eliminated by grinding a "u" into the front of the parting tool. Chatter seems proportional to the width of the parting tool. The "u" grind gets the job done especially on ductile Iron or stainless. I expect a V grind would be better but my diamond wheel does not have sharp edges anymore! Top rake or clearance, I've had better success with 5°. Front rake, yes 12° seems good. I also put a India stone to the cutting edge, prefer a rounded cutting edge as opposed to sharp. My go to engine lathe: clausing Colechester 13x36. I've got two, vintage 1956, and 1968. Again really appreciate the effort knowledge and experience you provide.

Hi Joe in uk. After getting small lathe few months ago have found your videos brilliant. You are a great teacher. You are bit of fun not to serious but safety conscious always. Your drawings on board with commentary then practical on machine really cover things. My point is that when using my machine your experience and showing processes do really help and stick in your head lol👍😃 thanks. Nigel

Lathe rigidity has a big effect. I hated parting off on the Jet 1024, but the 1224 Grizzly weighs about twice as much and I am now the king of parting off!

Great format for learning. Thanks for taking the time to make videos. 👍

I have had an old lathe for only few weeks now... - You have teached me a LOT of with your videos. Must be a worth of several months or even year in vocational school. Thank you very much and looking forward for Your 2020 videos!

Thank you for this series of eye-opening moments!

Great vids Joe, love your direct, no nonsense style. Best wishes from the UK.

I almost always power feed when parting, especially with stainless steel (which is mostly what I work with). The critical thing to get just right is the feed rate. Too fast doesn't end well as you would expect but too slow and the tool can not sustain a steady chip and can work harden the stainless. As always, keep it wet. Thanks for you tips you provide as there is always someone that knows something that we can all learn from.

Really like your vid's Joe! Between you and Mr. Pete my machining has improved a great deal! Thanks!

Thanks for sharing all your expertise and experience. As an amateur with no formal shop training watching your videos has helped me to become pretty competent at basic lathe operations. I really like the upside tool and running in reverse for threading. When I first got my lathe and didn't really know anything I crashed it a sheared the aluminum pin driving the lead screw. Last week I was trying to part off a 2.5" round of hot rolled steel with a cheap tool. I suspect that I must have been slightly below centre. Anyway it was almost through but the blade caught up and literally exploded sending shrapnel rocketing 25 feet across my garage hitting the opposite wall. I'm glad I was standing to one side as I always do or I could have been badly hurt. This excellent and thorough video could well save lives!

Fantastic and clear Joe. Loving your channel

Hi Joe, This is well explained by taking all the elements separately and describing every variations and effects. There is a thing that affects the performance of those tools is the rigidity of the machine itself, small lathe owners are finding it much more difficult than us with the sturdier machines, trying to part stainless on a little Atlas is something else, this is where small kerf blades will save the day... ;) I must have had excellent teachers cause parting blades never scared me, meaning that I got no more mishaps with those than with any other tools. Cheers, Pierre

Really appreciate you sharing your years of experience and knowledge focusing on 1 point like this.

Another great video! I've been out of machining for a few years, and will be getting back into it. Your videos are getting me psyched up and ready to make chips.

Great tutorial as usual. I do a LOT of parting at work almost exclusively with 1/8" wide insert tooling, the geometry of the insert curls the chip in making it narrower than the groove which helps a bunch! Parting ALWAYS leaves a burr no matter how slight and angling the tip only makes the tool want to crawl sideways as you aptly demonstrated. What I do, on parts with a hole in them, is only drill or bore the hole .01" + the nose radius of the tool if you are boring, deeper than the part length. This leaves a very minimal burr which is easy to remove. You can then continue feeding to the center or minor diameter of the stock, rise and repeat..... Another trick, if you need to make several washers, cut multiple grooves slightly smaller than the finished ID then drill or bore the parts off they end up on your drill or boring bar with minimal burrs. I always power feed parting tools, usualy about .002 per rev in steel, gives a very consistant chip, keeping them flowing is key! PS looking forward to getting my puzzle LOL

Pretty good primer on parting, I'm sure it will become a standard, a must watch for beginners .

Another great video! Absolutely enjoy the way you explain the topic! Thanks and you are almost to 4000 subscribers by the time I got around to watching! Congrats!

I just found your channel yesterday, and I've already watched a bunch of the videos. Fantastic info and explanations. Thanks for making them!

Outstanding, subscribed, so much more to parting than I thought - thanks for the share. Yes, I will have to watch a few times, saved for future reference.

Thank you Joe, for the great videos. I heard you apologize in a previous video about sharing info that someone else has previously shared. DO NOT worry about that! Whatsoever!! Teach what you think people need to learn, never mind anyone else. Love your great vids Cheers

Hi Joe, I enjoy your videos since you explain everything so well (I'll be subscribing). I've been a toolmaker for most of my 45 years working, and soon to retire (I hope!). An easy way I've come up with for squaring the tool to the work, assuming an ALORIS tool post is used like you have, is I'll extend the tailstock quill enough to bring the front of the ALORIS post in contact with the quill and tighten it there. The Aloris posts are square and can easily be set this way. I also use this technique when setting the thread chasing tools and won't bother with a thread gauge.Regards, Steve

Thank you Joe, just getting back to hobby/interest lathe work after quite a while away. You make sense to me! Thankyou

Thanks Joe. Exactly what I require. Can't. Wait to get to the garage tomorrow and put your ideas to work. Many thanks. You have an excellent site and are a very good instructor. I am 76 and learning machining as a hobby and to support my wife's small business tooling requirements. Your videos and my machinist handbook answer my questions. Well done.

Excellent video Joe. Thanks for taking the time to get these things out!!

Thanks man, parting is always a night mare for me and I will try your recommendations. Your films are very useful. Cheers from Sweden.

No doubt- there is a lot to learn. You've done a great job and I THANK YOU.

I bought my first lathe 2 weeks ago, an old South Bend 9" clone. Trying to teach myself some lathe work, I have a few projects I need it for. I had real trouble parting of bits, my tool (new "bought" parting tool) kept wandering off to the left. After seeing this video I figured out the the tool wasn't sitting exactly straight or didn't have the right angle to begin with. The tool post isn't exactly mint.... But a small touch of on the grinder and the tool now goes straight! Thank you! I like the white board explanations, it gives me "aha moments". :)

Joe, I simply cannot get enough of your videos. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge in such an easy to understand fashion.

Thank you Joe, I immediately went out to the shop and re-did my parting tool per your instructions. My parting tools and work have never been good. It works like a charm. Thank you!

Thank you Joe! I partoff a lot of Delrin at my job as a all manual machinist. Its a headache at times. This video will really help! Keep the great advice going!!

Extremly helpful. I now know why i am having issues with my parting operations. Can not wait to apply some of your techiques.

very good instructor, easy to understand.

Mr Joe I do thank you for free lessons and for ton of knowledge you are pouring on to my screen! Your channel is go to for how to!

Very good info, you can never know to much. Joe I like the way you speak or teach what you have learned threw the years! You pick up on the important things that you should know about being a good machinist and staying safe. I watch your videos when ever I can good stuff keep keep en on! O when parting off your work put a wood dowel in the tail stock bring it up into hole if there is to catch the part if no hole use a tube to do so. save your fingers you will need them later people. hope this will help maybe Thanks for the info Joe

I have learnt so many fabulous working tricks from you. Thank you Joe.

Will be buying my first lathe and mill (hobby size) for my home shop soon and just want to send a big thanks for all your vids I have seen so far and I'm learning lots. Thanks Joe

Joe, you made my day! I've got a new high-quality Taiwanese lathe, an Aloris BXA tool post, and a [now-I- know] cheap, no-good Chinese parting tool! Your video got me through the day - I was able to get the junk parting tool working by carefully following your video. And a new American-made parting tool is on the way!

Joe this is another excellent video. I am learning so much and thank you for your time and experience. You take unlocking the true potential of the metal lathe to a whole new level lol.

Once again a good video. Thanks, Joe, keep them coming.

Great video Joe, thanks for all your knowledge my friend! Cheers, Doug

Great vid! I've been trying to get my HSS parting blade to work efficiently without shattering for around 5 years; half an hout watching this vid & no more issues, cuts great every time; Thanks Joe

Thanks Joe, I parted without having to clean up the part today! Happy 4Th!

Hey Joe, just found your excellent videos. It's a pleasure watching them & your explanations are very easy to learn by. Thank you.

I'm always amazed at how eloquent you deliver your experience, for such an amateur as myself! Just toasted 2 hrs of lathe work to a bad parting job: now I see why! Thanks for the fabulous and helpful advice:))

Jow, thank you for anexcellent video. I am a machinist new guy and learned so many valuable points here. Keep the good work coming.

you never stop learning !! keep the videos coming , thank you joe

Great amount of information. Good job on explaining this operation, Joe. Thank you.

What a great video, best shop video that I have seen. Thank you!

Again thank you. Every time I get stuck on the lathe with something that I don't get I wind up back here, spend 30 minutes learning and moving. This time it was parting last time it was using microdrills. See ya next time for a new solution ;-)

Joe, after adjust my cross slide and compound to make my mini lathe rigid I was fallow your recommendation, and finally I was able to cut 1 inch of 6061 without chattering and tool filling. Thank you again! Before, parting was stressful!

Great videos, I'm a follower. I particularly like that you do the theory, the math and then the practical in your videos.

Great job Joe. Awesome lathe.

The deep focus on detail, scenarios, and sharing of past errors made this content-rich and a good learning experience. And we like you too, which is a bonus!

thankyou for this video, I have always dreaded parting off. Now i know why, i had way too much front relief, and no back relief, I ground my bit like you said and it works way better now. Thanks again

This is such a comprehensive and well explained guide to parting. Simply brilliant. Thank you.

Hey Joe, Thanks for video. You explained parting very well and I as a beginner learned a lot. I just do this as a hobby on a 7x12 mini lathe, but have see all the points you pointed out. Thanks for the insight. Dave

One of the best knowledge shop people, Very experience and to the point, theorist and practical.

Brilliant tutor, very methodical explanation.

Fully support your idea about the cost of parting tools. I only use carbide insert tools in my small cnc lathes, I don't like the expense, but they just work. I think most folks have had a nasty experience with parting early on in their machining life, often more than once, myself included. I still find it incredible that the tools I use work as well as they do. Thanks for putting all your years of experience into a half hour video, it takes some doing, but you have covered all the bases I think and have done it very well.

Great info& demo Joe cant wait for the next one.

Thanks again for showing me how it's done - the right way. I was parting off sections of 1/2" stainless rod and having a devil of a time - until i slowed down my little 6" Atlas (blue) lathe. I got it down to 250 rpm and re-ground my parting tool (again) - but properly, this time - 5 degrees front and -5 degrees top - and I added that trick to eliminate burrs on the removed part. I had used that trick before on the 1.25" delrin rod I also work on, but my angle was too great when I went to cut the steel. Now, that angle is slight - very slight - like only a few degrees. It works great - no more chatter, no more screaming, no more stopping the lathe dead in its tracks when the rod climbed on top of the tool. Thanks again. I learn a lot from your videos - and I DO re-watch them. It helps to get more hints - each time I review your video.

Many thanks! I'm sure I'll have better luck next time thanks to your tips!

Thank you, Joe! After having the same experience as you with a blade flying past my head, I resorted to most often taking stainless steel to the metal saw for parting. Think I'm now ready to put my full face mask on (just in case) and try parting again using your guidelines. Great video! Quickly spotted my mistakes!

As I expected Joe - your subs have climbed fast. Great.:) Thank you for an excellent video - indeed there are so many variables and it was super useful to have you go through them all - many we don't necessarily remember - I know I don't always, even now!