same here! It's a blast fpv'd

I'm thinking of that as well. It will still be the same concept to mod without using a 3D printer.

@BeaversHobby do you have access to a 3D printer?! That would be awesome! I have been trying to include different 3D printed parts in mine but most require so kind of alterations to work well. A guide to include that would be amazing!

@@t.j.maxxxrazor5935 Unfortunately I still don't have a 3D printer.

@@BeaversHobby entry level 3D printers have come a long way. Just picked up the Ender 3 V3 SE for 220. I'm very happy with it so far.

You can do everything by hand no 3D printer needed.Just print the chassis and steering rod from beaver to the 98mm lenght of the weehlbase clue to 5mm pvc board cut it out trim it a bit drill the holes and tada steering rod the same goes for the chassis 1.5mm.Beaver got us coverd with all we need to know even if you feel not that smart do not be affraid you cant do anything wrong just follow beaver he will guide you trough.Its the best hobby and he os a 1/24mod god love you beaver for all you did to help us.And do not buy the new one stick with the K969 period use the Miniz parts and have fun.

Same put minz parts in make it Rwd and boom.

Indeed! Giving us gears to adjust the ratio while having unremoveable pinion on the car is baffling to say the least.

I also just got a k969 that came with metal pinions and apparently the other changes. Hopefully there's a good way to add the FOW! My drivetrain was very stiff out of the box, but I'm hoping it's just the motor that needs to be worn in--nothing seems to be dragging in the gearbox.

The gears and diffs are also consumables so they will wear out over time. But if the wearing is too fast like in a few runs then there's something wrong about it. Otherwise, no need to worry.

Right now there's a chance you might get the updated chassis underneath no matter which one you choose. So, just choose it based on the body you like. Personally I still think the 284131 looks the best out of everything they've done so far.

You can file the back of the diff so it leaves a bit more space. You can follow all the diagnostics and fixes here too. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/itSYpcySuLnKg3U.html They are essentially the same car with the differences I pointed out in this video.

​@@BeaversHobbyThanks!

I feel like the handling is still the same. The working diffs might be a factor why it's harder to steer though. Normally we need front locked/spool or very tight front diff for touring. I'm in a Discord group Small drifter 24. I don't use Discord that much.

It doesn't lower the throttle on this version so I suspect the big wheels might have done something to the buggy/monster truck version. Check if there's any rubbing while you are turning and also if the wheels can still spin smoothly at the CV joints (dogbones) while turning. Sticky CV joints can lower the power output too.

Thanks for the tip. I guess there's no non-destructive way to take the motor pinion out after all. If all the updates are applied equally (which seems to be the case now) and just the body is different then I prefer the truck version. I don't like the roof rack on this new K989 that much.

You don't need to tighten the wheel fully. Just tight enough so it doesn't wobble and loose enough so it can spin freely. You can add the washers if the wheel wobbles even when it's fully tighten.

Take a look at DasMikro V3.It's the best budget brushless ESC. It's on GT55 too. www.gt55racing.com/products/nb4-rx-integrated-micro-brushless-18a-esc?DIST=RUZBGw%3D%3D Another option is this kit from BYRC. Hopefully it's still the PN V2/Hobbywing if you buy it. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002919336408.html

They are the same output as another LED. You can plug extra thing in there like another set of LED or a transponder.

Yes, you can. It's a standard 3 wire. You can cut the wire and solder it with the plug you want, JR or JST-ZH.

Thanks for responding, excellent! Thanks again!

XRX is still great to this day in terms of driving. The long-term durability is not looking so good though. The screw holes started strip a while back and it needs aluminium or metal upgrade to maintain the durability. MA is amazing. It's easy to build, tune and drive. The points against it being 1. expensive (but it's all aluminium so it's like you buy a fully upgraded car), 2. availability is poor and it's pretty hard to find.

Hello. It's basically the same car so the upgrades that applies to K989 will also work with the new one. Except the differential. The new version has smaller bearing size, hence slightly different gearbox so if you upgrade the diff to Mini-Z compatible diff, make sure you get the old version gearbox and bearing too so it fits. As for the RWD conversion, it's at the front so it will also work. They also go back and update the K989/969 too so even if you get those, you might get the same components as the new version.

@@BeaversHobby Hi again, I just wanted to thank you once again for the tips. A small update from before is that I have had my 284010 for a while and am very satisfied. First I ran it awd with locked original diff with das micro v5 gyro. Now I've converted to RWD with a kit from Bunta v2 and it's awesome. Now I'm thinking about what will be the next update, do you have any tips? new servo, motor..? I am also thinking of upgrading the body to a 2000GT-R KPGC110 or do you know of a body that fits directly to the 98mm wheelbase. thanks again :)

It's XK X420. (This is in the video, by the way. I even have a time stamp for it.) It's also supported by 4-in-1 multiprotocol.

It's a pass through so whatever your battery voltage is, that's the output (with a bit of drop).

1. Yes, it will drift easier with locked diff. You don't have to buy locked diff either, just open the original ones up and put a piece of paper in to block the gears or glue them then you'll have lock diffs. 2. Unfortunately, no. They also updated to diff to have smaller bearing diameter. If you want to upgrade it, first get some good drift tyres with Mini-Z wheels. The diff upgrade to front one way will require the gearbox replacement so it accepts 6x10x3mm bearings. If the old gearbox is still available then it's good. Otherwise you will have to get the aluminium gearbox. Just the front will be enough. The rear can use the original with locked diff.

@@BeaversHobby Many thanks for your swift reply brother! Waiting for your new video upgrades on this new model! ☺️

Need to offer the bodies unpainted

There won't be any problem. You can run many cars together all at once. Just turn them on and connect the transmitter one car at a time.

@@BeaversHobby sweet thanks

@@thegaminggemini317 My pleasure.

It's based on the same chassis but with longer drive shaft on the wheels to accommodate bigger wheels. That's pretty much it. I think it's best to keep it stock. If the differentials are too loose, open them up and fill with gear diff grease (Kyosho has some) to increase the tension and it'll drive great. If you want to install new electronics, it's the same as K989. Except now that it has metal motor gear and you'll have to use a pliers to crush it to take the motor out.

@@BeaversHobby Ah alright, thanks for the tips. I was looking to possibly do a custom shell, but I don't know if that'll be as easy.

Not out of the box. You will have to modify it to extend the wheelbase. From my calculaiton it will be around 111mm wheelbase and K969 only goes up to 102mm with the included gear and original chassis plate. What you need to do is cutting a new chassis plate, extend the length for another 9mm then if you want to retain the AWD then you will need to extend the prop shaft. Don't worry, it's just a 2mm diameter rod so you can probably find that anywhere.

@@BeaversHobby thank youuu🙏🙏🙏

This sounds like the low voltage cutoff kicks in. Check if the battery are still in working condition, ie. if the voltage is not lower than 6V when the throttle stops working. If the voltage is higher than that like 7V or more then the 2-in-1 unit or the ESC unit is faulty. In this case you will need to replace that 2-in-1 unit providing it's still available. Another way is to upgrade it by replacing the 2-in-1 with a proper ESC and upgrade the transmitter. Here's the tutorial. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eLmkarhe3rXFZIU.html

@@BeaversHobby Man you were spot on! And I should have known better considering I have been in the hobby for 20 years😂 The voltage was correct with a multimeter but as soon as a load was put on it, it immediately dropped. Thanks for your reply

@@jasonbaldridge4281 My pleasure. Some times we do forget the simplest thing.

Basically if it has locked differential and plastic drift tyres, it will drift. Only one model of WLtoys comes with that out of the box, the K969. You can drift it right out of the box. However the stock tyres from K969 are not that good. So you'll consider buying a set of good wheels and tyres, usually from Mini-Z anyway. And you can lock the diff by yourself. Just open it up and put a small piece of paper inside to block to gears from spinning. So getting the K969 doesn't make much difference and I recommend you to choose it based on the body you like. For more advanced drifting you might want the front one way from Mini-Z. It'll fit WLtoys too providing you change the front gearbox to the old style (it has bigger bearing slot) and use long CVD. This conversion will allow you to use any Mini-Z compatible differential. Keep the rear diff locked though, no need to change that.

@@BeaversHobby that's really helpful, thanks. I'd never heard of the paper trick before! Are the chassis/pinion upgrades of the recent models a deal-breaker and should I change the body to one I like afterwards or is the effect on longevity and performance negligible(in which case I would go for one with a body I like)?

​@@elishahodgson1635 The metal centre shaft pinions upgrade on the new version is really good and will help with longevity. Also this update might have been retroactively fit to the previous models in the new batch already. So, it's quite a gamble if you will get the old model hoping for the diff compatibility. You might end up with the new drivetrain upgrade anyway.

@@BeaversHobby thanks, that's a wise thing to consider.

Yes, some Mini-Z 98mm bodies fit on this. This is still the same as K989 so the front shocks are too high for some bodies and you might need some modifications. Here's the tutorial for lowering the front shocks. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y81zfaiJvb2mdaM.html Here's the list of compatible bodies with recommended offset and modifications. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1v2sVg072T2Xl4tvEEy_E7kiDdmen-gRIWWm-pIp1VXY

@@BeaversHobby This is awesome. Thank you!!

The original pinion is 17T with mod 0.5 pitch and 2mm hole diameter. You can fit 15t or 19T in the bracket then move the motor in or out to adjust the gear mesh. If you need it to support more gear you will have to do some modifications like this. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mLeZhZCUy6jSpqs.html I just got a tip to remove the original pinion (the brass one), you'll need to crush it with a pliers to completely destroy it to install a new one.

@@BeaversHobby Thank you very much, so I understand that the smaller the pinion, the more acceleration the car will have, right? Thank you 🙏🏼

@@NeroDj75 Yes, smaller pinion yields better acceleration but lower top speed.

That sounds like a safety feature but it depends on how hard the bump is. If it's just a light knock and the car stops then there's something wrong. Check if the motor arear has the soldering joint too close to the chassis. If so a light knock can make it short circuit or ground on the chassis. you will have to either re-solder the motor or grind or cut that area of the chassis out. Otherwise it might be a faulty ESC box.

Thank very much sir for helping me out here , I'm going to try to see if those are the problems and u are right wen it bums a little bit harder, thats wen it stops . Didn't aspect such a quick replay back . U arevan awesome person.

Which version of the K969 do you have. At some point there were update with the new all-in-one unit and it came with the black transmitter you see at 2:54. If it's that one then yes, this new transmitter will work. Otherwise if you have the flaming one then no.

@@BeaversHobbyBecause I have the flaming controller, do you recommend I buy the new k989 and put the receiver into the old 69 so I can use the new transmitter or is there a better way to upgrade the old k969s transmitter and or receiver.

@@Stoney69999 Upgrading the transmitter and electronics is a better way. You can get a much better transmitter that offers better controls, adjustability and it is a base for expanding your collection should you want to. Because you only need that one transmitter to control all the cars you will have. Here's the tutorial. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eLmkarhe3rXFZIU.html

@@BeaversHobby cool thank you so much for your information huge huge help. My final question is what should I buy if I want a adjustable wheel base and rwd for 1.24-1.28 scale . I seen you posted a video on a DRZ one that has the adjustable wheel base but it is sold out. Do you know any other rwd adjustable wheel base micro Rc?

@@Stoney69999 DriftArt 3S has the widest range for the wheelbase and width out of the box available right now. DRZ V3 also has the adjustable wheelbase but not width for the rear.

Thanks for the info. So they do update the rest of the fleet. The metal pinion bugs me to no end. Also, I guess the aluminium gearbox serves its purpose now so we can use Mini-Z differential easily because of the bearing size.

​@@BeaversHobby I used the older K9 on an event with kids running them all day long on asphalt and there were small pebbles going into the diffs from the holes on top of the diff cover, wearing the drive gears faster, so I am thinking maybe the metal drive gears will kill the diff gears? It will show in the long run!

@@MiniRacersRC Sand, dirt and grimes are gear killer. When combine those with metal gear going to plastic it will break the plastic part even faster. Close the holes with putty might help.

@@BeaversHobby I need to close them some how, this idea you said sounds nice. The only place is hard for this is the back where the alen ball thingy goes in but maybe there I can protect it another way but this should completely prevent pebbles from going in!

Wish they fixed the front suspension lower and made aluminum parts that actually fit

Not sure if or when but I'll try to get one.

Yes, they will. Get the AWD wheels. Any Mini-Z AWD compatible wheels will work, PN Racing, GL Racing, DXR even Yeah Racing makes the wheels nowadays. Tyres are the same between AWD and RWD so choose whichever you like. There are other brands too like PN Racing and Marka.

Thank you !@@BeaversHobby

Aliexpress still has some spares www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003791871316.html

The new bearing is smaller than the oneway so no, it won't fit.

@@BeaversHobby Okay, what gears for RWD drift gearing would you recommend on these updated models? Will keep stock motor for super budget build. Was thinking about getting the 284161 and add DUMBORC Gyro G03 along with resin 3d printed rims + the Kyosho drift tires you've recommended. Do you think the longer drive shafts of the 284161 will be a problem for wide angle? I know they need custom 3d printed adapters to properly mount the drift rims without play. The 284161 has heatsink and lightbar that's why I was interested in that model, is there a risk of it being too wide to properly drift?.

@@driacon For stock motor and RWD try 15T on the motor. The gear is included in the kit so no need to buy an extra one. As for the gyro Dumbo G03 should be alright. Personally I'd get the GT55 V5 or AFRC GYS-2 V4 because they are the same price but smaller. The 284161 has shafts that are long at the end to fit the large wheels so you'll need custom wheels for it to fit. Otherwise, just get the standard CVD so you can use standard Mini-Z AWD wheels. It's wide because the wheels are wide and that will look pretty weird on a car body.

This one. Unless the K989 is the new batch with the same upgrade inside. To be sure you get the latest update, pick this one.

​@@BeaversHobbyio 2 giorni fa ho acquistato la K989 quindi credo sia la versione aggiornata.

@@NeroDj75 Best of luck! I hope you get the updated one.

​@@BeaversHobbyI think so, because the electric receiver is different than the first version. because there is a red plug in the output.

No uses motores de más de 5000kv sino, te va a ir como el culo. Lo intente con unos de 7500kv y no arrancaba. Ponle una ESC medio en condiciones, sino, te va a pasar igual. Te lo digo por experiencia. Lo suyo sería un motor 2500-3500kv si lo quieres para drift o sino de 5000kv para correr.

@@david9778 Conoces alguna esc barata para motores sin escobillas?

DasMikro V3, PN Racing V2 and Atomic are good. DasMikro should be on Aliexpress for around 25 EUR. PN Racing V2 is on Mini-Z Racing Italia for around 29 EUR. Apart from those, there is the same board as PN Racing V2 floating around Aliexpress for 20 EUR If I'm not mistaken. However I don't know if you will get that exact ESC after buying because these shops often change their contents.

@@BeaversHobby Thanks for help us. Can you tell me what is the tool that you used in vídeo to extract the transmision pinion?

@@david9778 It's a gear puller kit like this. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004790203185.html Mine has "Walkera" helicopter branding but I don't think it would be any different.