Thanks buddy :)

If you wear a mask, especially one made for painting, and open a window, you can use water-based acrylic paints for airbrushing, such as Ammo by Mig, Vallejo, Life Color and Italeri with no problems. Basically, the Spanish and Italian stuff. Stay away from everything else because it’s toxic

Glad it was helpful Alex! Good luck with your next build :)

Thank you so much 😀

Glad it was helpful :)

Awesome, thank you!

Glad it helped, Felice :)

Thanks you so much, Allen :)

Thanks Leo....good luck with your builds, I am sure it is only a matter of practice and experience when your kits will be better than mine :)

Glad it was helpful!

Hope you enjoy it! Good luck :)

Thanks FV :)

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you mate. Good luck with the build. Just a tip, focus on enjoying the hobby and good results will come automatically with time :)

Thank you Genaro, very kind of you. I am glad the videos have proven useful :)

Glad to hear that Leo :) Good luck with the build.

Thanks Tim...i am glad you liked the videos :)

Thank you Tasic :)

Awesome, thank you!

Thank you! Cheers!

Enamel paints are a little tricky to hand paint with, not impossible, but yes, tricky. They dry rather quickly and so you will have to keep a close eye on them while painting. Enamels too don't take too long to dry, but it does vary from brand to brand. What I suggest you do, is take a piece of plastic (preferably a piece from the kit that you will not using or a disposable plastic spoon) and do some basic tests on that.

@@scalemodellingmadness4114 Thank you very much

@@scalemodellingmadness4114 I think you mixed up enamels and lacquers. Enamels are these little tins sold mainly by Humbrol and Revell and they are excellent for hand painting. They self-level nicely and stick to the surface much better than any acrylic paint. They take rather long to dry, I used to leave them overnight until I switched to acrylics because of convinience and no smelly fumes. Also, modern acrylics give you nearly as nice finish as enamels. Anyways, good video with useful advices and the finished kit is rather impressive.

Hey there mate. Those little metal trays are nothing special, you get them at most hobby or arts and crafts shops. The only reason I am using them is because my hobby shop owner gave them to me free. I would not pay for them, when I can just as easily use cheap plastic cups or disposable cups you get with delivery food, etc. :)

Thanks NM. Over the years, I have reduced my use of primers gradually. Mainly because the quality of paint has improved so much that it doesn't need anything to stick to anymore. Several years ago, it was sometimes a challenge to get the paint on surface without beading and a primer was essential. I avoid using a primer even more when it comes to hand painting kits, since the coat of paint tends to be thicker while hand painting. However, a primer coat still has some very important uses. In multi coloured or multi media surfaces I always use a primer, else the colour difference shows through the paint. By multi media I mean a mix of plastic, photo etch, resin, etc. A primer also reveals surface imperfections that are otherwise hard to spot. Also, a good primer will smoothen the surface for subsequent coats of paint. If you want to apply a primer, I would suggest you either use an airbrush or a can.

@@scalemodellingmadness4114 Thank you for answer, as always helpful tips from you.

Thanks mate, planning on doing the modern aviation project soon :)

@@scalemodellingmadness4114 thanks a lot!

Model Air is pretty thin, but you can brush it. The best method is probably to apply a series of thin layers to build up the colour gradually and it also helps to avoid brush-strokes showing up. Which is a method I often use when brushing any paint, though most of my painting is done with an airbrush. I can get an almost airbrushed looking finish with a brush but it uses a lot more paint than spraying and takes much, much longer to do. As for thinner, most acrylic thinners are fairly similar, a mix of water and some alcohols. I’ve thinned Tamiya and Revell Aqua paints with Vallejo thinner without problems other than the drying time being a little different than with Tamiya thinner so I imagine thinning Vallejo paint with Tamyia X-20A should work. It’s perhaps a good idea to add a little flow Vallejo improver or artist acrylic’s “extender” to the paint. This will slow down the drying time, keep the paint workable for longer and the longer drying time helps the paint self-level as it dries. Something to avoid is thinning Tamiya with just water - it really doesn’t like it, especially the metallic colours, the pigment tends to clump up and the paint sometimes dries lumpy and grainy.

I think there is a set or two for RAF WW2 aircrafts. So pick one you like.

example Vallejo 71144, RAF colors special.

Hey Paul, I think Tasic has answered the question spot on. So, thanks Tasic and good luck Leo with the build :)

Hey Southpaw, I am using a number 12. But in all honesty, I chose the brush more by eyeballing it and seeing which one would be best for the model. It changes from model scale to aircraft type and also the part of aircraft I am working on. But, the brush I use the most would be a number 12 :)

Yes you can. However, you will have to experiment a little to see how well the paint is sticking to plastic (most acrylic paints stick just fine, but do check just to be sure). An easy way to do that it to buy some disposable plastic spoons and use your paint on them first. The second problem you may encounter is that special hobby paints come in colours and shades specifically aimed at models. So, you will get specific paints for RAF or USAF or Russian aircraft/ships/AFVs. But with artists paints you will have to make your own shades. Even if you are not one for historic accuracy, it is nice to be at least in the same ball park as the original colours (or what we think the original colours were). Hope that helps :)

I recently started the hobby and started off with artists acrylic cheap paints. I'd say you absolutely can paint with them. You just need to make sure you thin them down enough with water as mine are extremely thick. But they thin down and mix together very well. The finish is not bad but it is extremely matte and coarse, which is fine but it can be easy to chip and scratch so just be a bit careful. I have only gloss coated the cockpit so far for decals and after the gloss the finish was very nice.

thanks for the information about artist acrylic paints :>

I will try...am doing some research trying to find the best way to mottle. Will surely share shortly :)

Scale Modelling Madness legend!

Yup...no problem using a hair dryer. Just be careful around small features, sometimes you may bend them if exposed too long to the heat from the dryer. Don't use highest heat setting :)

Thanks again Henry, you are very kind. The difference between Vallejo air and the normal Vallejo paints (which are called model color) is their consistency or thickness. The brush paints are thicker than Vallejo air and will need to be thinned down more. That's about the only difference. The only advantage of Model air, if you can call it an advantage, is that they are pre-diluted for the airbrush.

@@scalemodellingmadness4114 Got it. Thanks!

@@scalemodellingmadness4114 Does Vallejo make sets, for example RAF colors, of the Model Color brush paints? All I seem to find in sets are the Air Color paints. Thanks!!

Dunno if this will help but I use 2 gloss coats then apply the decals and weathering etc (no varnish in cockpit tho)and then I do another layer then add a matte Finnish if no matte Finnish then just leave one after layer

I’m not him but weather on the coat of varnish because if you don’t and attempt to rub a wash/oil off it will take the paint with it

Popsiclestick just looks like backwards tape I might use that actually 😅

@@jpw1812 That's what I thought I'm gonna do that too

Yes you can. But before you use it on the kit, please use on a spare piece of plastic to see how it behaves. I would suggest you buy some cheap disposable plastic spoons and use those as a test surface for any new product you want to use or for any new experiment you feel like trying.

@@scalemodellingmadness4114 Okay great! Thanks for the tip : )

It's not Scale Modelling Madness without it.

Lol...I didn't think anyone would notice. Just changed my PC and had to download new music. The error shall be corrected in next video :D

Ahem...ahem...just uploaded next video....lol :D

Nope, it kills fish as it block their gills!