You look like your scared to death handling it and when you "discharged"the caps you touched the clips to where there is no conductive metal. You touched the green insulated part you need to touch the alligator clips to the solder joints of the capacitors. Take your multi meter and continuity tester and there will be no beep if you touch the same spots.

It'd be nice to have a before and after comparison on this sort of video. Did it improve the sound or not?

Brilliant video, got an old amp that I would love to give this a go on :)

Hi There, I am inspired open up my 30 YEAR OLD NAD intergrated amp. Great video

This video is educational gold. I am going to repay Nick by purchasing a good bit of kit from them!

did you use the mundorf solder for the caps? thank for the video

Strange method, usually it's preferable to have 4 caps rather than 2 even if the total capacitance is the same. This feels like trying to make the wrong caps fit.

You really didn't discharge anything when you tapped the PCB like that, the green color comes from the solder mask, and it doesn't conduct electricity so you basically just tapped the circuit board with a grounded wire. Which did absolutely nothing. You should use a 5W resistor and place it across the pins of the capacitors, or worst case (100x better than what he did) just short circuit the capacitors. This is deadly if it's not done correctly. The filter capacitors can hold a tremendous amount of charge and depending on the voltage rating, a voltage of for example +80VDC, which is definitely enough to send you down the grave. Please, please don't do it as he did in this video, what he did, didn't do anything to actually discharge the caps. If it's not clear what I meant with using a resistor, just do a quick google search for how to safely discharge capacitors and you will find hundreds of examples and videos, without a doubt.

Nice video! Good caps certainly make a difference. Wouldn't the solder mask insulate the caps from being discharged like that?

Wats the big block power supply made from? The square shaped ones ? I'm after its weight to apply to something else !. Thanks if you reply:):)

I'm amazed how empty it is inside.

brilliant vid...i have a 35 yr old Technics Amp....I would love to upgrade. but i'm a complete novice...what would happen if replaced all 4 caps with bigger caps ?

Won't it be easier to drill with a Dremel at low speed?

There's only an 'incredible improvement' changing the caps when the existing ones are worn out or seriously uncervalue. A long time ago it worked but now manufacturers are more savvy.

I think it is necessary to put 4 caps for the low impedance not two and a fast recovery diode. A low esr capacitor is enough.

This seems to be common on KZfaq, I would prefer to see someone upgrade the preamp section, I can't find videos on this anywhere.

Great stuff. What’s your thoughts on bypassing them with small value polypropylene caps?

SO. COULD YOU TELL US WHAT HIGH QUALITY CAPACITORS SHOULD WE USE IN THE POWER SUPPLY?

Top👏👏

Sorry about being late to the comments, but aren't you making the project just a bit more complicated than it should be? I mean, the 1st hole can be the factory drilled, your new hole could be anywhere on the +/- side so long as you remove the green layer. I use fiberglass pencil to do this (I'm not sure what you folks would call it).

you kind of seem like you don't know a whole lot - have you ever designed and built an amp from scratch. Once you do that you insta-know what most bits are if its a standard design. I'd just use bog standard filter caps like Elna ... cheap, good ... its just charge. Pairs of smaller cheaper ones have benefits too ... multi-stage filtering. Its not like the pre-amp input cap. Still, kudos for going at it.

Nonsense! I would use higher capacity less expensive epcos or panasonic caps, the same diameter (18mm) and raster (no drilling required), but slighly taller (it would fit perfecly). It would be 4x 3300uF 35V per (+) and 4x 3300uF 35V per (-). Much lower ESR. The amp would sound noticably better than original.

What a bizarre way of soldering? I was time served in electronics and have never seen people wrap solder around the component leg like you showed. 1) Mechanical joint. 2) Heat joint 3) add solder to the joint - not the iron.

Those tone controls and balance control are disasterous for the sound quality,

Oh jesus , discharging caps by hitting clips off solder mask....wow.

Sorry to criticise. I did have respect for HIFI Collective, but after watching this, you've gone down in my estimation. Why did you try to discharge through the solder resist? and you should never discharge by shorting them. always use a resistor. Why not use 1 x 10000uf per rail and may be also change the bridge diodes for fast recovery type. Also, Cambridge audio put 4 caps in parallel to keep the impedance lower. I would also have cleaned inside it first. I don't know, may be I'm out of touch with everything. It has been a long time since I've done any DIY. I'm sure people have benefitted from your video though.

У него даже нет шуруповерта! Жесть.

Oh no, this is all kinds of wrong. He didn't even take a razor and lightly scrape the old cap leakage off of the PCB. In time that can eat through the board. You can also use Goo Gone and a light abrasive. In any case, this guy is seriously testing my OCD.

How can you how can you do an audio video and have terrible audio for your own

what they said ......AND you talk funny

Dont do what this guy says he has no idea.