I have the same issue. The insulation covers the light - stupid design

You might be able to purchase an appliance door from a kitchen supplier. Alternatively make one yourself using veneered wood - as long as its about the weight of an appliance door it should be OK. As far as fixing it is concerned, some people responding to this video have used velcro to position the cabinet door on the dishwasher door before screwing the 2 doors together.

I waited until 5.30 and could wait anymore! My issue with fitting under the worktop is now sorted without waiting for help! Really so grateful. The instruction manual really wasn’t any help. Just going to level it up a a more suitable hour and test it, hopefully it won’t flood when connected or I will be looking for more soloutions lol 🙏

I think your dishwasher tripping the mains is caused by your red light failure, as I had exactly the same symptoms one of the times my light failed (It's now failed 3 times). Suggest you either replace the light or if you don't want to go to that expense, just snip one of the cable leading to the light and cover the snipped ends in insulating tape - that should get rid of the short. I posted a video on how to change the light - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/grejic-lydupfWQ.html

On second thoughts I'd advise you to snip one of the cables leading to the LED before going to the trouble of buying a new harness, and test that it is the LED that's causing the problem. In my case the LED failure and the mains tripping problem happened at the same time, whereas your incidents are more than a year apart.

The unit comes with the detachable plastic clip attached to the dishwasher door (make sure the clips are pushed up - they slide down to come off). I measured the distance between the top of the clip and the underside of the worktop. I then subtracted about 4mm to give me clearance for the furniture unit door fitting under the worktop - this gave me the vertical distance required between the top of the clip and the top of the furniture door. The horizontal measure for the furniture door is pretty easy - you just need to make sure the dimensions are the same on the left and on the right. My first unit developed a fault which they could not fix on site so I got a replacement dishwasher. I was installing the replacement on this video, so I already had the plastic clips on the door, hence the reason why I did not show this on the video.

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Neset Ceri my dishwasher was fitted by a kitchen fitter and he didn’t even notice that the red floor led spot light was covered by the insulation panel, so I ended up cutting a small section out of the rubber insulation so that the light shines on to my floor as it should 👍🏼. (However.....I’ve now had my dishwasher for 2½ years and I’m actually searching KZfaq for help regarding why my red led floor light has suddenly stopped working 🙁 although the dishwasher is still working well)

You've probably sorted this out by now, but the reply might help others. The polystyrene is purely for transit - it should all come out of the dishwasher before use. If you have difficulty getting the bits out, there's no harm in breaking the polystyrene up until it comes away.

I was thinking this, almost look like they need to stay in place

As far as the cutout is concerned, it depends on how low the kitchen unit door fitted to the dishwasher door goes. Once you have fitted the kitchen unit (ku) front to the dishwasher, and you have adjusted the front so that it lines up correctly with all the other units, hinge the dishwasher door down and measure the distance between the lowest point of the ku door (ie the front lower edge) at the lowest it gets (nearly closed but not quite) and the ground. This is how high your kickboard can be after you have done the cutout. Please note that I am not a professional fitter so follow these instructions at your own risk. If you are replacing an integrated dishwasher with another one, you might find that any cutout will still be OK. I was fortunate in that the person who fitted the first dishwasher in my kitchen did the cutout. When I fitted the new dishwasher, I lined up the ku door front the same way as it had been lined up before, so the cutout still worked. In my case, the ku door is 12.5cm from the ground at the lowest point, and my kickboard is 14.5cm, so the cutout is just over 2cm (allowing a small gap between the door and the kickboard)

The insulation came with the dishwasher. In action it is really quiet - just as well there's a light shining on the floor when its on!

Yes - the door is sprung to allow for the weight of the cabinet door - if it wasn't it would heavy to close once the cabinet door was fitted.

I’ve just taken delivery of one to replace my old Whirlpool and it doesn’t come with the door fixings or the soundproof wadding for the front. Should I contact Beko?

@@soniaashleigh-cross6254 May have changed the Spec as it seemed over the top as Modern Dishwashers are really quiet

My door is 715mm, but if it was a bit longer than that, I think I would have raised the dishwasher lower than I did at 1:56. This would have left a gap between the top of the dishwasher and the work surface, but would have made sure the overhang between the bottom of the wooden door and the bottom of the dishwasher's metal door would not be too great as to inhibit lowering the door to the maximum. My wooden door is 140mm from the floor and I raised the dishwasher about 30mm, so the minimum distance between the bottom of my wooden door and the floor would be about 110 mm.

@@runaib thanks for replying. Its a bit of guess work when tjey dont supply all the measurement that come with the install document like door hight, cut out depth and height etc. Reading between the line i think you are leaning toward it would likely be ok by lowering the dishwasher and having the top of the door higher than the control panel. That being the case i will likely buy it and give it a go.

I can't really say, as I am no expert. The plastic clips really act as locators for the wooden door front and to hold it in position until you can pass screws through the metal dishwasher door and screw them into the wooden door front. I guess what you might have is another way of fixing the location of the wooden door front with respect to the metal dishwasher door until you can get the screws in to hold it permanently in place - but I'm only guessing!

@@runaib this seems exactly right, thank you. we basically had to fit it into place with a plastic connector, which involved various measurements and drills (instead of the usual clip kit), then screw it in. it worked out in the end but the instructions were dreadful. thank you

The door fixing bracket should come with the appliance. It should be clipped to the dishwasher door. This was the case when I originally bought the dishwasher. The one in the video was a replacement under warranty for my original one which developed a fault. The door fixing bracket was missing on this second dishwasher, but I had the one from the first dishwasher already fitted to the kitchen unit door, so I didn't bother contacting the supplier to complain.

If by "the white stuff" you mean the plastic assembly that I screwed on to the wooden door, that came with the dishwasher - it was there - clipped on to the metal door when I unpackaged the dishwasher.

Same here, How did you resolve in the end?

Assuming your door comes down to a hard stop, it sounds like your kitchen fitter fitted something incorrectly. You may want to get them back to fix it. If you want to diagnose and potentially fix the problem yourself here are 2 possibilities I can think of: 1 - The bottom of your decorative door is coming up against your plinth. If this is the case, you can fix it by making a small cutout in your plinth to accommodate the door. See my plinth at 10:13. 2 - If the bottom of your decorative door is clearing the plinth, take the plinth off and see if it is coming up against the dishwasher itself. If that's the case, you will have to lower the dishwasher so that the decorative door can be fitted a bit higher up on the metal door of the dishwasher. You can see that's what I had to do in 6:20 - if I had fitted the dishwasher hard against the underside of the worktop, my door would not have opened fully.

The rubber sheet on my dishwasher has a bit cut away so as to provide a gap for the light to shine through. If your light is not showing it may be a fault with the LED - I've had this fail three times so I think there is an inherent weakness in the design.

Mine weren't included either. How did you resolve in the end?

@@oblong3039 We couldn't find clips to buy, so we used initiative, wooden pieces and somehow managed to screw the dishwasher door to the cupboard door. Got there in the end but it wasn't easy.

@@van3346 Thanks mate, Did yours have water in it before you connected it up? mine has not sure if its because they test them before going out the factory or if it is a previous returned one?

@@oblong3039 No water. It was brand new.

@@van3346 Managed to source this clips from www.espares.co.uk or www.ransomspares.co.uk Espares part numbers: ES1674532 and ES1674530. Ransom Spares part numbers: RS828903 and RS828904 Ransom Spares were cheaper.

Well I'm not an expert, so I can only speculate - First of all is the bottom of the door hitting your kick panel? - if you look at 10:12 you will see that there is a cutout in my kick panel just to avoid this possibility. The next thing is to check that the door of the actual dishwasher will go all the way down when the door that fits over it and belongs to your kitchen units is removed. If that's OK, then I suspect that the overhang between the bottom of the dishwasher door and the bottom of your kitchen unit door may be too large - my overhang is about 7.2 cm (about 6.75 inches). You can see at 6:18 that I had to lower the height of the dishwasher so that this overhang was not any bigger. If I had fitted my dishwasher tight under the worktop surface my kitchen unit door would have banged against the bottom of the dishwasher and I would have had a similar problem to you. If you let us know which if any of these suggestions helped you, it could help others in the same situation.

Hi Andrej, The BEKO doors hang a little lower than most brands and you may need to trim a little of the top of your kick board (which is the piece of wood that runs along the floor and hides all the legs and stuff). Just open the door until you feel resistance and then mark on the kick board with a pencil where the door is meeting it. Then take the kick board out and trim of the offending section. Don't forget to seal the cut edge or you will run into problems with water getting into the wood/fibre. Best of luck.

We have the same problem :-) It keeps slamming shut unless the bottom basket is pulled out. We haven't fitted the door panel yet, just got it all plugged in and working.

I think your assumption is correct. The feet are adjustable so you can make it whatever height you want, but if it's close to the underside of the worktop there's less room for moisture to sit on the top of the machine. Just had a look at mine and you can probably slide a piece of paper into the gap but no more.

Sounds to me as if you have a fault. Once it starts it ought to go through to the end of the cycle.

@@runaib thanks for your response. It starts and then the programme flashes and a triangle also flashes but it doesn't go any further

Yes - there's no unit in the space the dishwasher goes. You fit the dishwasher then you put a cabinet door on the front.

It all depends on the height of the door belonging to the kitchen units you are going to fit on the front of the dishwasher. If this door is short enough there does not have to be a gap between the work top and the dishwasher top. In my case, if I had fitted the dishwasher hard up against the work surface then the unit door would have hung quite far under my metal dishwasher door and would have banged into the dishwasher when opened it right down.

If by "the white stuff" you mean the plastic assembly that I screwed on to the wooden door, that came with the dishwasher - it was there - clipped on to the metal door when I unpackaged the dishwasher.

Mine hasn't come with the white assembly for the door either. Did you find yours?

@@oblong3039 no I'm either going to have to buy them separately, or attach the door to the dishwasher with screws through the dishwasher door. I contacted Beko saying what I was missing, but they just sent me the kit with the extended feet and other bits

@@TheOneUK1111 thanks mate, been on hold for over an hour with Beko.Tempted to send thing back. Did yours have water in it before you connected it up? mine has not sure if its because they test them before going out the factory or if it is a previous returned one?

@@oblong3039 yes, they will have a little water in the pipes from factory testing.

Are any lights or indicators on the dishwasher coming on? If not, check your power supply fuse - there should be a fused plug or switch for it somewhere. If its not a power supply problem, then check your start sequence with the manual - maybe you've got a child lock set somewhere. If that doesn't work, then it sounds like a fault with the machine.

Hey Ionut! How did you solve the problem with the start button? Just bought today this model, and I got the same issue here.

@@paulvitti666 Hello! I solved the problem by using the warranty and they changed the entire control panel..

@@alexnica1000 Many thanks! I did the same! 😉

You probably can - I just found it a lot easier.