Thanks for chiming in. What do you mean by seize up? Like theyll get stuck?

@@BeorOng Yeah exactly. We use a product called Anti Seize on all our stainless bolts to prevent them from getting stuck.

@@jman5478 youre a legend thanks for the info. When I make the change over of bolts ill keep that in mind

Nuts i should say**

@@BeorOng Galvanized might be a better option for outdoors

Oh hi jenn haha. Completely my pleasure. Your video helped us design ours so credit where its due. Hope to see you keep killing it both on the sending front and on youtube!

Future plan if i ever get rich off this is to build a full proper bouldering room haha. Of course subscribers invited ;) thanks for watching!

Thanks man, glad I could be of help...definitely worth it for me to make a diff for our community =)

Thanks man, that means a lot. Hoping to make more videos soon so if you have anything you want to know i can put something together

Youre completely welcome, really glad that it was able to help people. Seriously thanks for watching

just wish the weather would hold out more

Thanks hannah! Always love watching your videos! Great to read your comment and absolutely, as climbers we always want to go higher dont we? Haha

thanks man, glad I could help

Youre too kind man, thats made my day =]

Best investment ever

Youre too kind. Thanks man

Hey thanks for watching dude and im glad it was helpful to you. If your building a vertical wall i think you can get away with any steepness. For me the 30 degrees is good but after a while its like well...cant climb anymore even though i want to. Thats why i want the vertical section so i can just keep going even if its lightly. If anything id actually wish i had it at 25 just to ease it off a bit so i can climb longer

hahah yeah, I think for me next time the screw ins would just give me a lot more peace of mind. I was checking out some of the free standing boulders you could buy but I just wasnt willing to go into the 8k range to get one even though my heart really wanted to haha. Just checked out your video as well dude and honestly I personlly wouldnt mind a flat wall at all. I think I get limited by the 30 degree angle alot because it all gets really difficult really quickly. Thats why I want to build the side wall as soon as I can just to have a bit more fun with some setting and not go... ok lets just make a hard ass crimp route. Planning on making a route setting video as well sometime soon if your interested, im not an expert by any means but I think the routes ive set are pretty fun haha.

Beor Ong I would think the movabilty of the T nuts would be better. That’s what I wish I had. Wow 8k that seems expensive. My gym I go to is already filled with a bunch of really hard crimp routes haha. Cool that sounds nice. I’d like to understand setting a bit more.

@@GarrettEderer haha yeah for sure. Im just waiting for some cash to continue building haha. Its not a cheap hobby

Thanks man, gyms reopening for us down here soon as well so now i havr options

Das right

haha much appreciated -- hoping to make more content soon, just trying to nurse my knee first so I can get the footage I need haha

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a8x5rJhp0c-RpXk.html here you go man and thanks for watching =)

Sorry dude, not really. I used the basis of the moonboard though which is on their website.

I was thinking about that, im worried if i spray the nuts that the threading size will change cause i want to spray the whole nut since that part is technically exposed if no bolt is in there

@@BeorOng just give it a light spray then put a bolt in and out while its still wet.

@@Krankyolman *face palm* of course... i dunno why i didnt think of that. Thank you good sir

Ah awesome to hear.. not many people seemed to want one but since you asked, ill plan one in the next week or two

Haha well hopefully the video helps people like us before they make their own

30 is quite difficult already maybe a 35, depends how hard you climb now and purpose.. or plan to put a side wall in like i want

haha theyre on my IG dude

These are the types of discussions i love seeing...people need to hear these thingd so im glad you guys are chiming in

and why is that? i mean it would take ages doing it by hand with a wrench :O

@@p1a2u3l4ify I think with the impact driver its just you have less accuracy of how it goes in and how much tension you have going through it so its just ramming all the way. And yes it takes me a whole day to reset and it works your forearms as well lol

@@p1a2u3l4ify because most stainless steel hardware is soft enough that it can't take repeated use (like moving holds around). It will get damaged much faster with power tools.

haha yeah theyre super pricey though

the cheapest option would be just any spare mattresses you have lying around, or if friends have any spare mattresses, depending on the build height and your comfortability of falling Id say another cheap alternative would be something like a 2-3 layer of jigsaw mats (a pack of 4 is 10 dollars AUD here), so assuming you cover a 2x2m space cost would be like $160 AUD for 3 layers, again it depends on your comfortability on landing on something like that vs actual foam matting (personally id be ok with it since it wouldnt be as high as my outdoor build. which already terrifies me lol. Otherwise the next cost effective solution would be to hit up gyms (like gymnastic gyms) schools, and even climbing gyms to see if they have any beaten up second hand ones that they might sell you for cheap.

Id reccomend a hangboard of some sort instead if you can. Training muscle strength is easy with just a pull up bar, training finger strength is so specific that imo its better to have a hangboard...get the beastmaker 1000 and you get both since theres nice jugs to use

@@BeorOngYes. Pull ups and hold familiarization. Did I get that wrong though? I thought it was Campus walls and Campus boards. The vertical board with the variation holds.

@@juiliethakur37 campusing is climbing up without your feet, so a campus board are litterally just rungs that you would pull yourself up with using your arms, hangboards have the finger variations, system boards would be moonboards, tensionboard, kilterboard, spray wall is an assortement of random holds, and the woodys or homewalls is what i have here

@@BeorOng That's a lot to remember for an old noob like me! Pull up bar and hangboards it is. Going one 'crimp' at a time. I saw the other wall builds you recommended. :) Thanks.

;)

Honestly the wood is holding out the best. The worst are the t nuts which are expected since theyre not stainless

Bunnings should have it, ask em for marine ply

Not entirely sure but based off these descriptions, PE cause ive dropped a couple before and some cracks have appeared. So more likely PE PU holds are light-weight, strong and impact resistant. PU holds won´t chip easily or break when tightened. PE holds are cheaper and offer ultimate wear resistance. PE holds also have good UV stability and thus they are ideal for outdoor walls.

come say Hi if you ever bump into me

most affordable would probably be to get some off cuts from chippys or factories and cutting and sanding them to what ever shape you want. Probably the most cost efficient way of doing it and you get a nice array of different shapes. Otherwise not gonna lie most sets costs are generally the same and they arent exactly cheap. The next best option like I said in the video would be to ask your local gym if they have any old ones theyd be willing to sell

I mean after wood its really just the T nuts lol, anything in particular you wanted?

Interesting how long does that normally last for (as in how long till reapplication is needed?)

@@BeorOng i would think years as it will not wash with rain .

Jasmyn actually asked the same thing - I cant be perfect on it only cause the carpenter was the one that ordered everything but what I wrote for her was the following: Base frame: 2 2x10's (3m in length) - back end slightly lifted up Side post: 2 2x4's (3m in length - cut to size afterwards) - These are held together by 2 structural bolts at the bottom and one at the top. *Note the offcuts were used as a spacer between the wall frame and the side post (since obviously if you prop the side post on the outside of the base there will be a gap between. The back frame - 4 2x4's 3m high (vertical) and 3 horizontal (note they need to be cut to size for the middle ones. Secondary note - 3 because the bottom actually is part of the kickboard. The kickboard is 2 2x4's cut to size (2.4m), off cuts used as "rungs" in between as your studs for the kickboard and obviously for structural support. They are bolted down into the cement using I think they were just small 5mm bolts. 4 weatherproof ply (18mm thickness) the ones used here at 2.4 in length and cut for the required height. There are 76 hex screws used on the ply to the back frame Nails all over the place for just holding things in place while we were able to put the hex screws in 180 t nuts (again I would reccomend screw ins personally but they are more costly) and 20 screws for the kickboard (specifially for the holds - not neccessary if you are using bolt ons) There are 2 more structural bolts at the back as well that connects the base frame to the kickboard.

oh also just remember the wood is all pretreated as well since it needs to be weatherproof

@@BeorOng thanks bro! you're such a legend

@@andrewshinkim1736 send me a photo of your wall when its built man. Would love to see it

fosho 👌🏼

Haha yeah i was thinking about adjusting it but if i get a vertical wall i dont think ill need to adjust it haha if yourr ever doen my side feel free to jump on the wall...though give me some warning so i can set some fun climbs

@@BeorOng hahaha awesome to hear and i appreciate that... too kind of you. I'm just beginning the indoor climbing scene but being autistic i make stuff alot so i thought I'd share my idea with you lol. I hope we aren't in for another lockdown the way Brissy is atm. Where do you normally go port melbs or the city? Regards Jono

@@jonowoodgo im south east so more bayside, la roca, boulderlab...the occassional urban climb and new one in chelt opening up soon should give me that new place haha

@@BeorOng nice... i went to Haileybury college in the South east back in the day lol I was from Mulgrave but reside in west Footscray. If i ever see you at one of the climbing places I'll definitely vome over and say g'day 🍻

@@jonowoodgo haha yeah dude for sure, im sure you will i legit climb everywhere!

hey dude, drill holes will be 12mm, the T-nut standard is to get 3/8" or M10, just be careful on buying the bolts as they are 3/8" UNC, not UNF

1500 aud with the carpenter, not including holds which can get pretty pricey too, if you want to build yourself probs cut the cost to 800-1000 just for materials

Brother sent an email to council before we built because we were concerned about the same thing. So we have a written ok to use as a back up. Thanks for chiming in though cause its a legit consideration

I dont but i can write them down for you ( ill have to guess the structural bolt sizes but honestly my answer to that is "any structural bolt that will support it will be good lol") my carpenter would be able to detail it bettet since he would have cut the frame up for the kickboard for example out of a longer piece

@@BeorOng That’d be awesome! I won’t be getting around to this until the end of winter, but I really like your wall! Thanks so much for making this video and willingness to share materials used.

no worries, about to head out for the day but ill get back to you as probably later tonight =)

Hey Jasmyn, sorry for the late reply (gyms reopened here and not gonna lie... I kinda just spent the days there haha -- as for list of materials: Ill try and break it down by sections and I apologize for metric and imperial usage here: Base frame: 2 2x10's (3m in length) - back end slightly lifted up Side post: 2 2x4's (3m in length - cut to size afterwards) - These are held together by 2 structural bolts at the bottom and one at the top. *Note the offcuts were used as a spacer between the wall frame and the side post (since obviously if you prop the side post on the outside of the base there will be a gap between. The back frame - 4 2x4's 3m high (vertical) and 3 horizontal (note they need to be cut to size for the middle ones. Secondary note - 3 because the bottom actually is part of the kickboard. The kickboard is 2 2x4's cut to size (2.4m), off cuts used as "rungs" in between as your studs for the kickboard and obviously for structural support. They are bolted down into the cement using I think they were just small 5mm bolts. 4 weatherproof ply (18mm thickness) the ones used here at 2.4 in length and cut for the required height. There are 76 hex screws used on the ply to the back frame Nails all over the place for just holding things in place while we were able to put the hex screws in 180 t nuts (again I would reccomend screw ins personally but they are more costly) and 20 screws for the kickboard (specifially for the holds - not neccessary if you are using bolt ons) There are 2 more structural bolts at the back as well that connects the base frame to the kickboard.

oh also just remember the wood is all pretreated as well since it needs to be weatherproof

bunnings but the carpenter bought em - theyre the marine grade ply but big hardware places should all have em

@@BeorOng ok thank u 🙏 great vid

@@dposch thanks man, i appreciate it! Just let me know if you have any othet questions and ill do my best to respond as quick as i can

Was really 1500 but gave a bonus to the carpenter. Again we could have cut a few corners but i wanted it to last. Materials were in the 1000 range so if you can do the build yourself its cheaper

I personally wish I would have bought a crash pad and had gotten into outdoor climbing before trying to build my wall. Haha

You dont know how annoying that was while filming haha

I can only imagine haha!

do you know whether the zinc spray would affect the actual grooves of the t-nut? Ive been worried that if I spray them they'll become thicker and the bolts wont go in

@@BeorOng it's just a zink coating, there's essentially no paint in it so it rubs off really easily, it's just to keep oxygen away from the metal. I'd go light on the first pass, screw in a bolt and then go for a second and even a third with it in. Edit: like you said, ideally you'd run stainless but the zink covered ones will likely outlive the ply. Less play would probably be preferable to silicone oil as long as you have the leverage to do them up. 🤷‍♂️

@@Monkeyshaman thanks for the info dude, ive been contemplating it for a while, will probably grab a can this weej

@@BeorOng 😄 no problem, you've very likely made a 3 year old aspiring spiderman very happy. 👍

Its honestly not that bad regarding heat. Its more i wish i had a bit of a roof on it to block the sun in my eyes and have rain roll off of it

Carpenter asked for 1500 for everything including materials but paid an extra 100 for the job wd

@@BeorOng thx