Thank you!

Let me know how scotts work. From what I have learned is that scott is great fertilizer but not necessarily the complete line of products you need to have golf course lawn. Natural sources seem to work best like biochar, milogranite, humic, fulvic, carbon

Glad you enjoyed it!

Same here

Thank you very much!

The back 9 is around 85% greened up. It is almost go time!

@@ReelLowDad clubs are polished and I am on my way!

It is not weird. It is Glorious!!! #alphagrass

Is more moisture better to prevent winterkill?

If there is anything I defer to an NC State fan, it is anything to do with grass or the forest. Best wishes this grass and football season. -ECU fan.

Thank you Thank you!!

Careful. They are always listening.

They are always watching.

Just glad I was able to help.

I tend to go with facts over percentages!.

Thanks for subscribing. More to come as soon as BMX Nationals are done this weekend.

“…throwing money at ‘Big Fescue’!”….made me laugh out loud!! 🤣😂

This would be a long reply. Shoot me an email to michael@reellowdad.com and I will help get you going in the right direction.

Because the is no magic fix. When I apply something I know it will work and what to expect. No having to believe something is working.

I would do it after just so it is easier to collect the cores and backfill the holes with sand.

This is a tough one. There is not a herbicide that will target just the common. If it is not a big area I would use multiple glyphosate apps and then use a plugger to harvest from a good common free area to fill in the new bare spot.

This is a tough one. The best option is a total kill and a re sod but that is pricey. Next option would be to spot kill the common and then take plugs of the hybrids to fill in. Slower but cheaper.

Thank You!

I take care of clover with just a simple hose end weed killer, like Ortho Weed B Gone. It will take 2 applications to get the clover and may stunt the bermuda some, but I like seeing that so I know it will get a good kills of the weeds I am targeting. Just don't apply over 85F.

Um no. What he said about seeding, all seeds are common bermuda is not true. I'm surprised he said that actually bc he usually has good advice. Almost any bermuda seed you buy from lowes or home depot are hybrid bermuda seed. If they go to seed they could end being any variation of what was combined. Common bermuda, is more like an heirloom plant.

I am so glad you brought this up. I am working on a video on this exact subject. While you are not wrong when calling a cross between two variations of Cynodon dactylon (bermudagrass) a hybrid. You are misinterpreting what an actual hybrid bermudagrass is. Cynodon dactylon each have 36 chromosomes. When crossed with each other they create a plant with new characteristics that also have 36 chromosomes and is then referred to a an improved common. Up until about one year ago, when someone referred to a hybrid bermudagrass, they were talking about something like Tifway 419 or TifTuf. These bermudagrasses are a cross between Cynodon dactylon (36 Chromosomes) and Cynodon transvaalensis (18 Chromosomes) resulting in a triploid interspecific hybrid bermudagrass with 27 chromosomes. These can only be reproduced via vegetative methods. My video will go into more detail, but all seeded bermudagrass is considered an improved common. Overseeding into a triploid interspecific hybrid bermudagrass lawn will create a patchy look to the lawn and is an unnecessary expense. Anyone giving advice that recommends this does not know what they are doing or benefits financially from the sale of the seed.

Yep. Just cut it as low as you can. Raise the mower up a notch or 2 and it will green back up and you will be good to go.

@@ReelLowDad Appreciate it brother. Awesome video. Hey does it matter if this is the first season of my sod? Should I still go lower than 1.5 inch HOC to scalp it?

I would skip the compost. The amount of weed seeds that will be introduced will casue issues all season long. Simply backfilling the aeration holes with sand will be better in the long run. Root cycling will maintain the organic content of the soil. Home lawns rarely need organinc material added.

TifGrand if you can find it. If not I would go TifTuf over Celebration.

@@ReelLowDad thank you very much! You made my day

@@ReelLowDad thank you, I’ve decided on getting TifTuf but with regards to timing - it’s really hot & in the 90s right now, is it a “no no” to lay sod now? Or is it okay with good watering? I plan to level up to 1in topsoil mix organic/sand before laying the TifTuf Appreciate your input ReelLow Dad!

You could fill in some of the lines now but it would be better to wait until it is fully greened up and actively growing. Scalp it first and also give it some N beforehand to help push the new growth through the sand.

That comment was directed at people overseeding with rye. KBG does not have the same Alleolpathic effects as rye grass.

I would fertilize based on what a soil test recommends to keep the Turf as healthy as possible going into winter. You could bring it down lower now and it should recover fine as there is still warm weather but daylight hours are decreasing. The main advantage of going lower now would be an easier spring scalp.

depends where you live down here in texas I cut my boss yard at 3 during spring looks good if I go any lower looks ugly and scalp with a 3 looks green

They got me this year 😂😂

You never overseed a hybrid Bermuda with a seeded Bermuda. You should also never have to overseed a common Bermuda either.

@@ReelLowDad Oh. Ok How do I get the lawn to thicken up without over seeding ?

@@geo2952 cut it lower and more often

Did you end up going with any seed?

@@Otsp922 no. I started cutting lower and often. Also fertilizing helped

Skip the preemergent. Starter fertilizer can be used.

@Reel Low Dad Thank you so much. Would you mind recommending some particular brands that you like?

Just raise the mower up a bit and keep going.

Raise it up some and then mow frequently and fertilize to encourage growth. For the thinner areas, get a pro plugger to transplant plugs.

Best is subjective. I am using ammonium Sulfate right now. If I had to go to a store and buy something it would be Scotts Green max or Scotts Southern Lawn. Prill size is excellent and spreads easy.

Working on something better. It is almost ready.

Boo freaking hoo

Those watering intervals are perfectly fine. Are you able to pull up any of the sod. If it does not pull up it has rooted in well enough you can use Pre-emergent and post emergent for current weeds.

@@ReelLowDad to play it safe I'm gonna battle and pull weeds this entire year. I'll do pre emergent this fall. And post after that especially for the POA annua that came in the sod.

It is true he did overseed his 419 with Arden 15 and recommended it. Last I saw he walked back that recommendation. I unfortunately had to stop watching when he blocked me for asking a question on what he plans to use for a growth regulator.

@@ReelLowDad wow is that true. He use t-Nex for pgr.

V

I haven't had water yet but my springs are on the rainy side.

I would lean more towards heat stress based on the conditions. For fungus issues it is important to properly identify any fungus and then use the appropriate fungicide.

Yeah. It is getting late in the year so sooner the better

Those are just the cheap hunter sprays. I like them a lot.

Start with a soil test. Then core aerate and pick the cores up and then back fill with sand. Work on killing what weeds you can and use a pre-emergent in the spring and fall. Spectacle Flo in the fall and prodiamine in the spring. When soil test comes in you can see your pH and work on that while feeding the lawn the recommend fert based on what the soil is lacking.

I would go with sprigs. Get a better cultivar and established quicker

I would give up on the grass and make a bed out of it. It is possible that the fig tree has some allopathic properties and that in conjunction with the root system taking water from the grass.if preventing it from growing. I have some bald cypress trees on the other side of the fence and have a similar issue.

You really need to kill the ryegrass. When it get stressed it responds by releasing chemicals to harm nearby plants. In this case your beudagrass. This is called Allelopathy. I use monument to kill it off but there are other options that can take a few applications but the upfront cost is less. MSM Turf is one of these. You will need a gram scale that goes to the thousandths. Even with spraying it out there will be some stress to the Bermuda.

@@ReelLowDad Thank you for such a fast and helpful reply and please forgive the technicality of this post. Since Monument’s label said it needed 80 degrees or lower, (which only happens between November and March here), I think MSM Turf may be my only choice. I only overseeded a portion of my total lawn area, which I’ve estimated to be about 6,200 square feet, or 0.1423324 acres. When I looked at the MSM Turf, it said to use 0.125 to 0.250 oz per acre, or 0.01779155 oz to 0.0355831 oz for my affected lawn. That would mean I’d need to use 0.5g to 1 g divided into whatever amount of water I determine is needed to spray each square foot of the affected area, right? I’m thinking to take my hand sprayer and spray water onto the ground at a steady walking pace to determine how many gallons I will need and then divide the halfway point between the minimum and maximum, or 0.75 g between the total number of 2 gallon sprayer bottles necessary. MSM Turf suggests a non ionic surfactant to optimize the uptake of the product, but warns it may lead to increased chlorosis. If this were your yard, would you avoid this, considering the weakened state of the grass? Thank you again for your quick response. Does all of this sound right to you? Omg. I’m never going to overseed with perennial ryegrass again if I can get my beautiful sodded Bermuda grass lawn to revive from this. If anyone else can learn from my mistake, please do. It was gorgeous for so long, but now I just want to protect my investment.

I ran MSM at a rate of 0.325 grams per 1000 square feet. You would need 2.11 grams for your 6200 square feet. I would use the NIS. It may temporarily discolor the bermuda but it is needed. Most herbicide mixes will discolor the bermuda but it will come back. For MSM add 0.32 ounces (9.46ml) of NIS per gallon of final spray mix. MSM is a slow kill so do not expect instant results. A repeat application may be needed at 14-21 days. I am using grams because this is such a tiny amount of product and this is a potent product. Do not use the included measuring cup. I picked up my gram scale for around $50 many years ago. Also, do not spray on windy days, early in the morning is best as winds tend to be less during that time. Doing a test run with water is a good idea. Marking out 1000 sqft on a driveway and filling the sprayer with 1 gallon of water and doing practice sprays to get your speeds down will help. This will help get you comfortable with a walking speed and develop a cadence to make sure you accurately apply the product. To help with recovery of the bermudagrass pick up some ammonium sulfate. I get mine from Rural King in 51lb bags of spray grade. It is a 21-0-0. If you cant find spray grade you can get the spreadable form. I would still dilute it down and spray it but you would need to use a filter as the non spray grade stuff has impurities that could clog the sprayer tips. Mix up 0.75-1.0 lbs of AMS per gallon of water and apply weekly. Be prepared to mow at least every other day depending on HOC. Don't waste you money on crap you may see others using/selling. You want N to push top growth and help the bermuda recover and fill in the bare areas. Also, don't be surprised if you see some PGR return next year. The new cultivars are very good and getting more difficult to eliminate.

Try Annual instead of perennial ryegrass. The south tx heat kills off my annual every year and the Bermuda takes over.

The sadist in me says go for it!! In reality, the reason the KBG and bermuda mix well is leaf texture and that they can be mowed at a similar height. I am patiently waiting for the ultra dwarf fescue to become readily available,.

Tifgrand does much better in the shade. It is extremely dense and actually slowly crowding out the Yukon. It is getting harder to find though.

@@ReelLowDad Any negatives with the TifGrand, other than hard to find?

Hybrid has a finer leaf blade and a thinner stolon. Usually. Also grows a bit slower but not by much.

How are you doing today?

Mike , i am feeling great on this overcast bird chirping Wednesday morning, how has your day panned out so far ?

Not bad. Getting ready for a little cold snap and logging back in to do some more of my real job.

#flipflopmowsquad

Thanks for watching. Our humidity is so high we no longer have the need to blink. 😀

Barb's lawn is the pinnacle of lawn care bermuda excellence

@@ReelLowDad 🤣

Don't give away my secrets!

Thank you for the comment and feedback. I am always looking to learn as much as I can.

I know most of the big channels personally. You are right. Thanks for watching

I am pretty sure that is Tall Fescue mowed at 4 inches.