What if the rodents live inside the walls? Do you still use the bait outside?

@@Penelope416 Put it in your attic uf you have access. Pet proof and they probably go up there.

@@YSLRD we don't have an attic. But I hear them on the roof. They probably get in the circular vents on top.

Thank you for watching and commenting. If you have problems with infestations, make sure you take other preventative measures as well. Eliminate all weeds and grass close to the house. It's a good idea to have a barrier of small stone about 2 feet wide all around the house. (Mice don't like running through stones) Eliminate anything that mice may consider food (or at least keep it in a covered mouse-proof container) while you are away. Eliminate things that mice can use for nesting materials (old clothes, rags, newspapers, cardboard, etc.) or at least keep them in a covered metal container. Try to eliminate as much clutter as possible. Clutter makes ideal nesting places for mice. Try to eliminate any openings in the house no matter how small. Mice can get through very small cracks and holes. Calk up cracks and stuff holes with steel wool. Call a professional exterminator to come and make an assessment of your house. They can often identify where mice are coming in and will suggest solutions. l If possible, either go there a few times during the off-season and check on things, or make friends with a trustworthy neighbor that stays year round and have them check on things occasionally. (Doing this can be invaluable with other things that have nothing to do with mice, like spotting storm damage or criminal activity like theft or vandalism.) You know by your experience, that it would be worth it, even if you paid him hundreds of dollars per year to do so. Check for mouse activity and check to see if bait stations need to be replenished. Put a bunch of poison, conventional traps and sticky traps inside the house too. Just make sure to remove them come springtime, before you let any children or pets into the house.

Pamela just take 2 of those poisonous baits ( like he used ) using gloves, a mask and eye protection crush it down Add 1/2 litre of water and then soak some sunflower seed. Let them soak a few days then take them out again using gloves yes and mask spread them out to dry and you have the CHEAPEST guaranteed way to get those buggers. Best

I saved my mother $600 a year by making these blocks.

Did it keep the mice out?

@@twandamobley5189 I believe it has. In addition to placing the stations around the house, I also made a more concentrated effort to keep the space around the house clear of leaves and other "stuff." It's been a long time since we've had any "intruders."

Good idea

I have mice problem in my apartment and can hear them scratch the walls every while but not all the time I have glue baits with food in them but don’t see any now Do you have any advice how to get rid of them?

i recently found that i have mice in my home, i found a next made with tissue paper under my bureau, made me sick, mouse poop everywhere. today i found a hole in my wall in my kitchen cupboard and again mouse poop and granulated sheet rock or plaster.Help......

@@sharonmcmann-morelli4896 I've tried EVERY mice/rat trap available. I suggest you go with poison immediately. Specifically use Tom Cat with bromethalin, called "Bait Chunx". Read below if you're worried about poison and/or not being able to find the dead rats. We had rats takeover our attic this past winter in Texas, I snap trapped about 40 of 'em in the winter months on a large variety of traps (about 9 different brands/types). I've tried 'em all.. the best snap trap style was by far this (think it had 25+ of the 40 or so kills, just be sure to put at least one screw in to hold it down): www.homedepot.com/p/Victor-Power-Kill-Rat-Trap-12-Pack-M144PCO/312229876?mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D28O-G-D28O-28_1_CHEMICALS-Woodstream-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Victor_Pro&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D28O-G-D28O-28_1_CHEMICALS-Woodstream-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Victor_Pro-71700000068738751-58700006081550656-92700055002846829&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyPW29vzF6gIVjYbACh3t9wbuEAQYBiABEgKRvPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Turns into the summer months, begin to run the ac etc, I had to repair my hvac ducts from the massive leaks that were caused by these rats. Energy bill was $600 from the AC running. At this point I said fuck 'em, threw this stuff into every quadrant of the attic. The first night it was like a party up there, tons of activity for the new treats, in the middle of summer with the attic around 130F. They were still hanging around which really surprised me.. So every other night, I threw more of this out. After 4 days, I stopped hearing the noises entirely. I am certain these baits solve the problem for good. Didn't smell up the house at all either, which was the main reason I strayed against using poisons. I'd rather have removed them myself but clearly this was out of hand! I'm so glad to have this problem solved without having to smell dead animals! I will only be using bromethalin poisons from now on. I will never have more than 1 snap trap in use EVER again! This stuff works incredibly well and highly recommend for anyone to do the same before they cause you lots of problems as they did to me. Even if you dont have them in your attic/walls yet, they will get there if they are around your home. Put some up there as a preventative and any that find their way to it will die before they can start generations of rats. I recently noticed some in my garage, so I put this out where I saw them on a shelf on each side of the garage. Screwed into the shelf with a deck screw through the middle. Overnight, both of the 2 blocks I put out were disintegrated from rats/mice feeding on 'em. Set more out immediately when I notice they were being eaten. 4 days after first batch, I found 3 rats dead on the shelves and 4 more over the next few days. Get ahead of them before they cost you a grand! Edit: it has been 5 weeks since this happened. Not a single smell at all!

@@sharonmcmann-morelli4896 I've used peppermint oil to repel and baking soda on the floor to see their tracks and put down traps. Tip type worked well enough and I caught 3 then blocked the entry gaps. Two of them I had to add a quarter to get it to tip. i used peanut butter as the bait. Search Lakewood Exterminating on the web and they have some videos on how to pest proof your home. I've also had to deal with my parents sheds, garage and I put used cat litter in the shed and they moved out that day. used something like 'Stay Away' in one shed and in RV storage bays and they got rid of the critters so I could sanitize and do preventative measures. Another apartment I use the ultrasonic devices.

Wearing gloves would be a good idea because - why not? It doesn't cost you anything. But, on the other hand, this stuff is RELATIVELY harmless to touch. Warfarin, the active ingredient in some mouse poisons, is the same active ingredient in blood thinning medications that is prescribed to people with heart problems. In other words, you would have to ingest a lot mouse poison to harm or kill you. Mice are very small so it doesn't take much to kill them. One of the things I'm trying to do here is to prevent a dog from eating a whole block of it. Over the years, I have seen a large dog and fully grown pigs eat entire blocks of it without ever showing any ill effects afterwards, but that's just one block. If a dog will eat one block of this stuff, it stands to reason that he will eat any and all the other blocks he can find. At some point, it would kill him, so it's best to make sure he can't get to any of it in the first place. This includes storing of the product. Make sure you store this stuff on a high, secure shelf or in a cabinet, where dogs and kids can't get to it.

That is great to know. I guess I was thinking of the past when the rat poisons were possibly more toxic, they killed anything that ate the rodent, hopefully the development now is safe for the greater environment and ecology. Thanks for the info!

Yes, I should wear gloves. I get it. If you want some good laughs, read all the comments and replies for this video. I got into some fights about it, but I give up. I'll wear gloves from now on. At least when I'm on You tube. Thanks for watching and commenting.

​@@fixyourself9163Thank you for the video and glad you're using gloves now. Even just to avoid the mouse saliva, urine, feces, and oil from their fur that would get inside your traps. Mice don't have bladders and urinate continually. Also, it prevents your "human scent" from getting onto the stations

I also haye them but i dont want to poison them i dont want to find a dead rat rooting in my hose so disgusting so y want to keep them away

Listen, try this. Get baking soda and mix it with flour, this will act as their poison and kill them. Secondly, if you seriously and truly don't want them in your room, then go out and buy yourself a good 10 bottles of peppermint/tea tree/eucalyptus 100% essential oil. mix the essential oil in cotton balls and put them in the corners of your room, then use the other bottles for mixing with empty spray bottles and spray around your room (obviously mix the oils with water) and lastly get a humidifier and mix it with that. Your room will be super fresh and this will seriously deter them. Prevention is better than cure, so figure out where they're coming from.

@@bassinblue They got used to the essential oil mix. The Just One Bite works best.

Professional pest "Control" will always want to keep putting baits out. You have to inspect your home and know what you are looking for. You have to seal areas that allow mice to gain access. Mice only need the thickness of a pencil to gain access. Steal wool is not your friend. It rusts and falls apart, even if it's stainless steal wool, rendering it useless and money wasted. I do this as an add-on for people dealing with animals under their house. Crawlspace openings are number one access areas. Foundation vents are another area in which they gain access. I have been to houses where the cable guy punches holes through vents, leaving gaping holes that allow access. I have seen where the cable guy left the crawlspace door open because the cable wouldn't allow closing the door/opening. You have so many areas to look at if you have a brick home, i.e. Weap holes. Plumbing throughputs where piping penetrates the flooring, both supply and drain lines. It's a process. There's maintenance to be conducted annually to ensure they stay out. YT The Critter Gitter7576

Libby ADAMS those home made bait stations are illegal for him to use much less sell.

@@gator2366 bullshit

@@gator2366 your a bitch, fuck off loser

@@gator2366 Ha Ha ...they make plastic ones with locks.

Thank you!

Where to buy products? I moved and seen one.

@@Jay-ozo1 amazon

@@seaton710ful Thank you✨

Thanks for that idea, I have been using used cat litter but of course would be easier to use ammonia in a spray bottle. I wonder if it would work in a wicking situation for a timed release. Does the smell bother you?

@@TH-eb5ro I can only smell it if I use too much like I did on the first day I tried it. But later i started cutting the bottoms off of water bottles and use them like bowls to pour ammonia in them and leave it near areas where mice get in. You also need to refresh the ammonia after about a week. I would also suggest finding the holes where they get in and patch them up with caulking.

The water will freeze during the time of year when mice are trying their hardest to enter the buildings. You could add antifreeze to it, which would really increase the killing power, but that would probably cause more collateral damage than the mouse poison. I think you can make a nonpoisonous bait out of oats mixed with plaster of paris, but the humidity outside will turn into a hard block. Mice might still eat it though. I guess I'd have to experiment with it.

@@fixyourself9163 don't need water, or poisons. Just crush up some alka seltzer into a fine powder, (baking soda works to, but takes more) mix in just enough peanut butter or soft cheese product to make it stick together. Make little balls of the mix and put it in the bucket or where you see evidence of rodents. Rodents can't pass gas. The will literally implode. Won't bother other animals, rodents only.

Predators won't ear poisoned mice, I grew up on a farm, we had barn cats and they wouldn't touch a dead mouse let alone a poisoned one, cats and other animals of prey aren't eating poisoned mice man

@@midwest9757 my cat did

Correct, plus HOW does this keep them out of the house? They could eat the poison, go in the house to die, and decompose somewhere, leaving a smell to locate. But flies will find it and lay eggs. Shawn Woods has a great channel and a fast humane kill trap is always the best option. Poison bad for possums, skunks, badgers, racoons, owls, hawks whatever else eats the dead and dying mice. It's a horrible way to die being poisoned. This guy strikes me as too lazy to check traps daily. Wants to be "set for a year".

@@recoveringsoul755 Mice will run around the perimeter of a building long before they find an entrance to it. Mice naturally enter holes to seek food and shelter. The holes in the bait stations are easier to find than holes in a well maintained building, so they enter them first. They eat the poison and die before they bother finding an entrance into the building. The point of all this is to kill them before they enter a building and cause thousands of dollars in damage. Yeah, sometimes a mouse that ate some poison can later get into the building, die inside and smell, but that beats the heck out of large numbers of live, healthy mice in your house, breeding and causing damage to wiring, insulation, etc.

Exactly

Oh. Carol get real. Who cares about neighbor cats, coyotes, owls etc. Worried about your problem.

if it was your pet you'd sing a different tune. Mice are a problem but not all that difficult to get rid of. A person doesn't have to be stupid about it. I'm not going to kill someone's pussy that they've had for 10+yrs and means the world to them because of carelessness and lack of common sense. The directions are plain as day on the package. "don't use outdoors".@@barbarawaters6514

Good idea. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thats amazing how little empathy you have to our fellow creatures.

Golfgtiguy 😂😂😂

Seagulls don't fat either

O

If your scent gets on it,mice won't eat it I hear.

Thank you!

I got billions of 'em! The reason I started this channel is because I want to share all the ideas I have thought of and heard of, with as many people as possible. Thanks for watching.

I made mine 1" in diameter. Thank you for watching and commenting.

I have a rat problem, would do you advise for those? And believe me, I’ve tried every trick except for the boxes. I purchased one for $50, you put anything to lure them in and they get zapped and killed... but i need at least six. Those rats are costing me a lot of money and they no longer fall for the poisonous bate, it’s like they had a meeting and just stopped eating it.

fixyourself I have a rat problem, would do you advise for those? And believe me, I’ve tried every trick except for the boxes. I purchased one for $50, you put anything to lure them in and they get zapped and killed... but i need at least six. Those rats are costing me a lot of money and they no longer fall for the poisonous bate, it’s like they had a meeting and just stopped eating it.

@@AlbinaTheDivine As you have experienced first hand, poison is not an effective sole control of large numbers of rats (or mice). You say you have a rat problem. By that, I assume you mean that you actually see the rats (if the rat population in your area was anywhere normal levels, you would probably never actually see any rats), and on a regular basis, you find some additional thing that rats have damaged or destroyed. What you need to do first, before you even worry about things like traps or poison, is to eliminate the reason the rats are there. There are two main reasons rats and mice populations get out of hand in a particular area: 1) There is food (or at least what hungry rats might consider to be food) present, and 2) there is available shelter for them. Eliminating as many of these two things as possible will do more to reduce your rat problem than any traps or poison you can legally buy. Here are some steps you should take: 1) Give the entire area a thorough cleaning, and by that, I don't mean just sweeping the floor. Get rid of everything you can bear to throw out and at least half of the stuff you can't bear to throw out. Get rid of anything that shows evidence of being used by rats as food or shelter, even if it still has some value. Get rid of any old cardboard boxes, and don't use cardboard boxes to store anything from now on. Get rid of as much clutter as you possibly can. 2) Once you get the area cleaned up, store anything you still have left that could be used by rats a nest or hiding place in metal (or at least high quality plastic) containers with lids that can be securely attached. Avoid having piles of anything laying around. Mice and rats love to hide in piles of stuff. 3) Do not have any food scraps laying around. If you spilled a container of food on the work bench for example, clean it all up immediately. Make sure you get any that may have landed on the floor or behind the work bench. You're best off not ever having any food in any area like a garage or workshop because just the smell of food attracts mice and rats. Garages, workshops, storage buildings, or and other place where people might not be in for several days in a row, are particularly vulnerable to rat infestations because no one is around to scare them away. Don't forget about pet food. Store that in sealed rat proof container. I use a new metal garbage can with tightly sealing lid to store my dog's food. Only give your pet as much food as they will eat immediately after being fed. This might take some retraining. Cut back on food until your pet eats everything as soon as you serve it. You can feed your pet again later if you think he is still hungry. Just make sure you serve only as much as he will eat right away. 4) Check the exterior of your buildings. Seal up any and all holes where mice and rats might gain entrance. Don't skip sealing up a hole because you thing it's too small. Mice can get through a hole smaller than your pinky finger, and small holes are often gnawed larger so mice and rats can gain entrance. Eliminate all things around your building(s) that mice or rats might consider food or shelter. Do not allow tall weeds or grass to grow next to your building(s). If you can surround your building(s) with gravel, crushed rocks, or stone on the ground at least 12" wide, this will go along way toward preventing mice and raats from entering your buildings. 5) Read up on, and watch every video you can on this subject. There are a lot of great ideas on mouse and rat control out there. 6) If practical, consider getting a cat. Just remember the only cats that are of any value in mouse control are ones who were raised by a mother who is a good mouser. If you do everything mentioned above and have a cat who is a good mouser, you probably won't need any traps or poison at all. 7) If having a cat around is not practical, then you might need to consider using traps or poison, but make sure you take steps 1 - 5 (plus any others I failed to mention) first. Taking these first steps will probably take care of 90% of your rat problem. Poison should take care of the remaining 10%, which is all you can realistically expect poison to do 8) Yes the bait stations will work for rats as long as you make the hole a little larger than if you were making the bait stations exclusively for mice. It won't have to be much larger than 1" in diameter. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.

@@fixyourself9163 thanks for all of your great info. Everything you have said is actually using common sense, but we needed to Hear it again to wake us up to Do it and say "oh ya" that makes sense! Needs to Stick in our heads. lol Just like kids learning, it has to be heard at least 5 times to get it...cleaning up the clutter and cleaning up food sources and a good mouser is truly the best a answer yet! Common Sense > Thank you

Eating one dead mouse probably wouldn't kill a cat. I've seen a dog eat an entire block of mouse poison with no noticeable ill effects. However, if you do have cats, you probably should use some other type of mouse control, like cats, for example. Predator birds, like hawks are sight hunters, and tend to prey on things they noticed moving. Scavenger birds might eat the dead mice, so it is something to be concerned about. These bait stations are really meant to be a control measure, not an eradication measure, so the number of dead mice you have laying around at any given time should be quite small which would limit any collateral damage to desirable wildlife.

Could be a bad neighbor just poisoned your pet.

This is why I havent used poison. I have 2 dogs and 2 cats.

They usually like high places

Thank you, and thanks for watching.

Nothing, but I've never seen any evidence of the mice taking the bait blocks away. They do, however, take the pelleted bait back to their nests. Absolutely no question about that. If you are concerned about that, don't use pelleted bait, use the bait blocks. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Nothing and that’s where he fucked up.

Buy a brand call Havoc put in pie pan in a neat pile.Place in attic they'll find it mice squirrels etc .They love it makes them thirsty so they try to exit and embalms them.Smell not as bad.Check attic after a week if poison scattered you are in business.Keep feeding until it stops.Guaranteed.If in main house and no pets place behind couch under sinks etc.

All the materials needed to make one are available from any home improvement store or lumber yard for less than $10, probably closer to $5.

@@fixyourself9163 it be more like $30 or $60 in the hood nothing ever that cheap here

@@mroie probably find most of it in empty lots and alleys

They will die anyway. Poisoned or not. Better have one that die early than one that live for a whole year in the house make a mess than die.

@@jeanbonneau6711 Absolutely right. People say not to use poison because the mice will die in the walls and smell. They assume that without poison the mice in your house will conveniently go outside to die when their time comes. No way. They'll die in there anyway, and before that they'll reproduce, chew your wiring, and poop everywhere. Better to poison them before all those things happen.

And you know what they say. "If you see one mouse, there is almost certainly at least ten others that you didn't see in the same vicinity".

Really?!!!

So did I but I'm going with foil, cayenne pepper Irish spring soap and peppermint oil I'm just going to use that stuff everywhere at least the house will smell great what this does is runs them away from your place I'm putting the foil down on the floor in the closet because for whatever reason they don't like it and I'm going to hang little nylon stock and sashays of the peppermint oil close to the baseboard in the closet and I'm going to do the same thing under my bed put about two at the head of the bed underneath and in the guest bedroom and I'm going to find a way to put three or four behind the couch then I'll go to the kitchen and do the same thing behind the refrigerator the stove the microwave although I only saw one I don't like those things at all and he's super tiny he look like he was about the size of my thumb so he's a little thing and I went to vacuuming and noticed him run out of my bedroom so I live alone I'm about to try everything 🤣🤣🤣🤣 ...I saw a video about aluminum foil saying that they don't like the sound of it when they step on it I think it's because it startles them the smell of peppermint oil was a test done and it proves they don't like it and I seen another lady comment on one of the videos and said cayenne pepper gets in their nose and on their feet they can't stand that so yes I'm about to try some of everything 🤣 the great thing is all these items can be found at the dollar store Iris spring soap is very strong so what they did in that video was they did it in shreds like they shredded it up and put it along the edges of the wall I could deal with that cayenne pepper you can go get that from the dollar store and aluminum foil you definitely can find that in rolls at the dollar store and peppermint oil you can find that at the dollar store as well the cheaper it is sometimes the stronger it is 🤣

Thanks.

They're just fine, as long as you don't have any problem with taking the extra step of relocating the mice.

@@fixyourself9163 iIthank you response I reside in New York , where are more Norway rats than people. I believe redtail hawks were being bred and trained to eat them however the rats are nocturnal, and are out of control.

While this option is more labor-intensive, it is better for other wildlife. Mice that have eaten poison frequently are eaten by owls and other animals, which then kills the animals further up the food chain. It is a horrific death.

@@nonyabidness5708 I seems as though you could be between a rock and hard place, I'm sure no wants to expose wild animals to poison

@@henryfreeman7748 Based on some other comments for this video, I'd disagree...

iM SISTER sHoOk MEME BO lol!

This is what I do to solve that problem, works 100%. Buy the poison Buy crunchy peanut butter Buy granola Break up the poison into itty bitty pieces Mix that with granola Mix that with peanut butter until the fully mixed. Set it aside for 1 day, maybe 2, for proper marriage of ingredients because of the peanut oil. Set wherever you want but make sure pets cannot access. Usually you'll see it gone with a day or 2. They CAN'T resist the smell of the grains.

Caleb Williams Does the SPCA know about this?

radicalaccounting call a pest control company.

And Learn how to be at least a little bit useful with your hands, the mouse trap he built in this video could be made by a 5 year old

Won't last long outside.

In the blocks