I’m a pro artist been painting for 40 years and this guys telling it true. All those saying I’d recommend are recommending poorer quality paints. Talens are ok if you’re using only them but they dull and crack after a few years, they are too shiny , use Daler Rowney student range and you will see Rembrandt are extremely over priced, Rowney student range are similar to talens artist range. Winsor & Newton Gamblin and Utrecht are the go too of exhibiting artists

I have a big tube of Cad Yellow Light on my studio but since experimenting with hansa yellow medium PY74, I don't see reasons to go back to cadmiums. I mean, yes, cads have more opacity out of the tube. But no one talks about the negatives of that. Hansa has such nice mixing qualities with dark colors that cadmiums just can't achieve. Cads yellows are like painting with yellow that has a little bit of white pre mixed with them. Its great if u want that. But for someone painting rich dark tones, a touch of cad yellow may cause if to go much lighter and greyer quickly then if u raise values with a hansa yellow. Also, In my experience, mixing a little bit of white with the hansa (20% white / 80% color) py74 negates all the lack of opacity, while maintaining the richness. So, idk, I certenly would present Cad as an option for begginners, but I would encorage them to at least experiment with hansa yellow since cads are not actually better in every way. I prefer hansas for my style anyway. The PY74 is a little more orange then Cad Lemon, so it will produce a little more saturaded and rich oranges, but be a touch duller on the greens. For me its totally ok because I would rarely need such vivid greens, but, if thats a problem, just keep a small tube of any phthalo in reserve, just for those instances, such as phtalo blue, phtalo green, phtalo green yellow shade, and you will be able to produce explosive acid greens hehe. My 2 cents

FYI winsor and newton's burnt sienna actually uses pr101, which is transparent red oxide. That's why it's such a lovely warm color :)

I recommend Talens Rembrandt's Permanent Madder Deep as alizarin replacement if you want a single pigment one. It's a strong tinter and almost the same hue.

Love it. Limited palettes are the best choice for someone who is starting out, and you recommended really good colors. I’m currently using a split primary palette with some earth colors, 9 colors in total. Not a super limited palette, but the smallest number of colors that I’ve worked with so far.

I LOVE that you touched on some color theory. This is such a valuable video for anyone getting into oil painting and even artist that have been using oils for a while. Awesome!

I enjoyed the video. The music, transitions and video artistic style fits the Steed team. Thanks for sharing budget tips.

Thank you! This is great advice for an old lady on a tight budget who has taken up oil painting later in life. Simple is better for me. I have been frustrated with the “hues” which I bought because they are cheaper. You get what you pay for! Thanks again!

The best information, this is invaluable for someone who is self learning....My palette is about to get a makeover with just these colors! Thank you!

This was what I needed. Thx a lot.

Thank you! This helps out a lot!

Using the water-mixable oils I can confirm that my 37ml cadmium yellow almost lasted for 2x titianium white 200ml tubes. Same for ultramarine blue, cadmium red went a bit faster. I also like raw and burnt umber. Raw is nice for its greenish tint.

Hello man, love your videos. I've a question: Does your wooden palette have a protective coat or varnish? cause it shines. Thanks

Titanium white is also so potent compared to different whites, that it also makes the tube last longer

Awesomeness ❤

Love it, caught somethings I didn't know.

Great video. Can you do a video on how to mix a large amount of a particular colour ,say Parisian grey, to cover a large canvas as a background in a portrait?

Hey tanner. I hope you do not mind this personal question. Do you paint full time and make a living from it as well? I’d love to get some pointers from you on how to go about doing that. Watched all you videos, very cool stuff!

Excellent video. But we need a follow up on how to use that limited palette to mix a full range of colors. Or at the very least do a plein air demo using that palette so we can see a practical application.

I love this channel!

CO represent! Do you go to the first Friday art walk at all? Is your studio in Denver? FUN FACT: Zinc Sulfide pw5 (not zinc oxide pw4), otherwise known as "Lithopone", is a barium sulfate/zinc sulfide co-precipitate and does not suffer from the embrittlement issues of zinc oxide pw4. It is transparent like lead white, but reads cooler like titanium. Rublev has it as its pigment name lithopone, williamsburg has it as porcelain white (though it's ground in safflower). YELLOWS: If you need even CHEAPER, and you dont mind your greens and oranges being a little dirty, go for Mars Yellow. It's a strong tinter, sometimes it is TOO strong, barely dented by a 1:1 mixture with Titanium white (in which case student grade may be an ok option), excellent lightfastness, and it drys quickly. Nickel Yellow Ted-talk: If you're intermediate with your color mixing (which I recommend for this pigment), for a bright yellow consider Nickel Yellow Titanate PY53. It's a weak tinter that tends to gray down in mixtures, which could be considered a negative, but makes for great flesh tones. If you need strong secondaries you can supplement it with a thalo turquoise and a warm red like pyrrol red/transparent red oxide. It is significantly cheaper than cad yellow (for reference: Williamsburg cad yellow is 30$, Nickel Yellow 19$). While it does have lower chroma than cad yellow, and it is more difficult to use in mixtures, it is just as bright in mass tone as cad yellow. So, if you're a glazer like me and just brushing out pure color it is ideal. It is also the most archival, most lightfast, most weatherfast, of all the bright yellows! It's in the same archival category with the Earth pigments, cobalts, etc, (aka humanity can die out and eons later alien archaeologists will find it looking the same as when it was brushed out of the tube). So, if you're a sailor prone to manic episodes and like to hold your paintings up like Simba during rainstorms, it's the ideal yellow.

Really kool as video thanks from New Zealand 🇳🇿

Excellent!! I would like to use non-toxic paints and cleanup in a school setting with sensitive people. Could you please do a similar limited pallete/economical video for non-toxic paints, perhaps including water soluble oil paints that don't need terps, etc for cleaning.

Thank you for your tips

Very useful. Thank you.

Winsor Newton Burnt Sienna is made from PR101, iron oxide, not dirt as other other companies do (others usually use PBr7).

Hello Tanner, good video for beginners, you should focus on how to mix colors, that is a fundamental part in which many students feel lost. talk a little about the munsell system would be a good topic for another video.

Thanks for the videos and info. Curious your thoughts on the WN titanium white (artist grade) having the dreaded PW4 zinc pigment. I rarely do anything impasto, and have other brands of whites I use, but it seems hard to tell what percentage of filler are being used unless you are making your own paint.

Great info thank you sir.

Tanner what do you think of Beksinski and Laurie Lipton...i did a few knock offs of the former, he is just so cool...

how about a video on color temperatures, just the temperature transitions and what they mean to add a "warmer" or "cooler" color, what makes it those temps and where mostly applied. :)

I bought artist quality paints and I slap them on impasto for my loose style. I pay so much for paint D; but hey im happy doing it and im happy with the outcome. One thing as well, I bought a big tube of cadmium lemon and I almost never use it. It's way too strong. I find that yellow oche is acceptable 90% of the time as a yellow for me, because you still only need a tiny bit to mix with white for a warm sunlight, or yeah just when do you need sickly bright yellow? I used a little for some car headlights but it was such a small amount in the overall piece

Thanks - I was just about to buy a set of the Gamblin 1980 as I'm a total beginner but maybe I'll invest in the W&N artist level instead.

When searching I am seeing Permanent Alizarin Crimson - is that what you said to stay away from? I didn't see a mention of Permanent Alizarin Crimson just Permanent Alizarin. Thank you and thanks for the videos! Edit: Is French Ultramarine Blue suitable from Gamblin Artist line?

Buy big tubes of primaries and mix your own colors. That way you can afford artist-grade paints.

ALL SHADOWS have more of the color already there, it's complimentary color and blue, BLUES IN ALL SHADOWS IN LIFE, how GOD THING is that?!

Interestingly you suggest lemon and not light. If Lemon, a cool yellow, is mixed with ultra, a warm blue, won't that make slightly grayed greens? How do you get an intense spring green?.

Thank u lovely video

Most excellent I would add burnt umber and yellow ocher . 🙌

They create a hue of a pigment because the hue is the closest to original color with a better lightfast rating. Alizarin crimson is fugitive so they create alizarin crimson hue to try to replicate the original without it being fugitive.

Where did you get that beautiful palette!

you need cad yelow medium , red light , cerulean and ochre added to those 5 in order to cover 90% ...especially for abstract unless you make only portrait

Crazy question but who makes your apron?

I love your style of making videos. No offence, but there is a bit of positive craziness! While I have a huge collection of colours, I found my very basic palette consist Primary colours and Zorn palette. I use variety of manufacturers, even student ones (like Georgian from Daler Rowney, which I love). And true, some colours are last way longer than others!

Burnt sienna instead of burnt umber? That's interesting... Thank you!

Is it really better as a beginner to buy expansive tubes? I know they are more potent and have more pigment, but (as a beginner myself) i find that’s easy to waste colors exactly because i’m not an expert. Maybe i mix too much, or i mix it wrong and need a fresh start. Also tecniques like painting with palette knives use A LOT of color and i don’t think you’d get your money back not in quality nor in durability using artist grade with a spatula. I don’t feel limited by my student grade paints. In italy we have a great price/performance brand, maimeri classico, the student line of maimeri, where every color is the same price and almost none of the 77 color is a hue. I can buy a 20ml tube of cad red or cad yellow made with real cadmium pigment, not a hue, for 3.50€, that’s hard to beat. For the cost of that single cad yellow artist grade tube i made myself a palette of titanium white, cad yellow lemon, cad yellow medium, cad red medium, alizarin permanent, cyan blue, cobalt blue (hue), ultramarine blue, yellow ochre, burnt umber. The worst limitation with this range is the phtalo blue, i had to pick cyan that has phtalicyanine and cobalt blue hue because there is no phtalo blue in the range, but still a pretty respectable start for 35€. Colors are also pigment rich and creamy, of course not as pigment rich and creamy as the artist range, but not so far behind.

Is the "Zorn Palette" good for a beginner?

9:12 - Alizarin Crimson?

Is you Palette custom made?

water mixable oil review

😀😀🥰🤘🤘🤘👍

U said alizerin crimson but prior not to get that one

Hues are not dyes...they are just different pigments that replicate the look of the original pigment they try to imitate due either to the cost of pigment, toxicity etc. If they were hues they wouldn't be lightfast.

Bro amazing video You are such a great guy Please get rid of those dread locks man It really feels unclean on such a great personality

Wish cad lemon was $35 in Australia 🤣

Tanner, this is a great vlog, but you are wrong about "hue" oil paints. They are NOT dyes. ALL oil paints are pigments.

its all fun and games until you try to paint a sky without having the blue u need, and you have the one that cant copy it.

Way too much rambling. Almost the entire video holding an empty palette. Puts first dob of paint on at the 11:50 mark.

Tanner you are clueless about ivory black. As well as your supposed black from a mix you are even mor clueless.