It’s worth mentioning that my estimates for speed are for comparison only. My method for estimating speed is actually only finding the average speed of the ball from rest to the moment it leaves the forks. Depending on whether acceleration is linear (which I doubt) the actual ‘muzzle velocity’ (fork velocity?) could be up to 50% higher.

I just found your channel. Thank you. The comments are as thoughtful as well and your presentation of the information/data. I particularly love that you have both 'tuned' the bands and 'matched' the bands and ammo in these tests/demonstrations. I find presenting the science on a board with the way you put the information into layman's term to be helpful. Your video skills were just a fantastic bonus. Stay feral, friend.

Interesting and love the sling shots. I like how you break it down with the energy of moving object (kinetic energy) speed and weight of projectile. 👍

Thank you for taking time to do this. Really great information.🙏👊

In depth, good stuff man.

A superb analysis…this vid should required viewing for all starting out. Like many I started on short draw tubes,erroneously equating heavy draw with power. I discovered Torsten’s channel many years ago,took the red pill,switched to butterfly tapered flats and didn’t look back.

Much appreciated work done by you sir, keep it up....Very Nice

Thanks very much, appreciated. Helped me learn about bands ammo etc😊

A word of advice from someone who has been going through the same process of trying/testing out the power, penetration and reliability of the catapult ammo: Shot PLACEMENT is KING! Ditch all of the big diameter balls and rubber bands above .65mm and start over with 6,7 and 8mm ball bearings and .5, .55, .6 or .65 bands! Use 16-10 to 20-10 tapers and other stuff in between and you should get 400fps, 370fps and 300/320fps with 6mm, 7mm and 8mm balls using a short draw. Any bird or small critter shot in the head will be dead with any of those balls travelling at those speeds! You will see a 50 to 80 percent increase in accuracy over using the big lead shot as the draw weight of the bands will be reduced. Once again remember that the shot placement trumps raw power and the only way to achieve higher accuracy is to reduce the draw weight=use thinner bands and thinner tapers combined with using appropriate weight balls=smaller and lighter and lots of practice(you can practice for longer with a lighter set up). If available always use lead balls that have the same weight as the steel balls matched with a particular band set because of the higher sectional density of the lead balls will result in a flatter trajectory and a deeper penetration. Best bands in my experience are Precise,GZK yellow and BSB white in .6 and .65 thickness; if pushed to choose only one band it will be BSB white as it is a bit smoother to draw than the other two but the other two make a bit more power.

Fantastic mate, love this! 👍

It's a good test very few are interested in the ft/lb it's mostly FPS. From the testing in have done there a power curve for a particular setup didn't graph it, if you haven't filmed it yet I would suggest running all the ammo types through each setup some thinner stuff still has power it's unfortunately not as simple as just thinkness. Momentum transfer will be very interesting fancy clobbering a leg of lamb.

11mm steel is the best. For over 15 years of slingshot hunitng experience, i know for a fact that the blunt force trauma is the factor here. If you want to hit a rabbit head consistently you need a good normal mouth bow anchor point. No butterfly style of shooting is included here. Ideal would be 10 mm lead but its much harder to get and more expensive. Over that weight you will get unnecessary trajectory loss. 11 mm steel is 5.5 grams and kills every time if hit in rabbit head. 8 mm steel, 2 grams does not, belive me i have tried. I also recommend 1745 tubes over bands for 11 mm steel. Because you get atleast 10-15 times more shots before they brake. Also you dont have to mess with cutting tapered bands all day long. And the speed is fairly the same compared to thera band gold. So my advice is 11 mm steel and 1745 tubes :)

Hello, what do you recommend for the ball of 12mm lead 10 grams and the distance from the mouth elbow to the fork is 75cm using gzk yellow green band 1mm and gzk yellow 1.2mm and Sheshou 1mm and 1.2mm and theraband gold

I find .375 lead ie 9.5 mm to give low surface drag with acceptable trajectory and excellent penetration 👍

Brilliant 🇯🇲

Very interesting to see this scientifically done. I always imagined that lead balls being softer ( and more prone to deform) would have less penetration....anyhow jolly good show old chap.

I’m estimating my speed with calculation and validate with aluminium can perforation. I notice that my max draw weight 4kg at 0.8m, dropped to 2kg at 1.2m when using 8mm steel, some 10% increases switching to 9.5mm steel.

I would be interested in marbles being fired from a catapult/slingshot and what speed and damage can be reached ? . I have used them in the past with spear gun rubber but it was a very heavy draw weight and hard to keep on target . But flew well with a heavy hitting power . Like you said in the vidio as long as you can hit the target . Nice work I look forward to next instalment .

Very cool. I shoot both the Monster and Demon with .8 mm using 11 m steel and a 30-25 taper.I’ve been practicing at 20-25 meters. With the Monster I’m very accurate and find no drop in the ball. I shoot a short draw. After looking at your study I think I’m going to try 8.5-9 mm and taper the bands a bit more. Thanks again.

One other gel test I would be fascinated to see is split shot like small sinkers just a knife cut in the lead, taofladermaus did a test on some and it worked for them. Could make a big difference on impact. Seen on other videos clear tape on gel can make it easier to see through.

Kinda was wondering what the exact mass or grams of the ammo is possibly a cronograph if possible and find the exact amount of energy. I think the 9mm lead and 10mm steel is from the small diameter allowing more penetration. If you had lead plated with copper or steel and a small diameter probably would make the penetration results.

Thank you very much for the detailed analysis. This is very helpful! I understand the point very well, but for me those data are just numbers and I don't have any experiences in hunting whith those rubber bands/ammo. In my country it is also forbidden to go in the outside and kill rabbits/birds/pingeon etc. Even shooting at them will cost you a lot of money. So according to your expierences is it rather possible to kill a rabbit or a pheasant with a rubber band of: 20/10 1.5mm thickness and 21mm active length? More importantly: at what distance is it possible to kill them? I know that the answers for those questions can only be answered after trying it by myself. But maybe you have some experiences in hunting with similar circumstances. Thank you very much for your efforts :).

You never continued this test? Admittedly I’m brand new with slingshots, though I have plenty of experience with firearms, and recurve bows, but I didn’t think there was any, or significant penetration when hunting. Isn’t it more about blunt force shock? So I’d love to see the pendulum measuring force, and also your observations on ballistic performance, ie does projectile drop become a bigger problem, amd at what point.

como puedo onsrguir un tirachinas de los que muestran soy de toluca estado de mexico

great

Great video! Are 1mm bands really necessary? I think 0.7mm bands should be enough even for serious hunting?

Lead being more dense than steel creates a smaller path of friction to slow the projectile.

You are missing some important factors. With lighter ammunition, the weight of the pouch and bands becomes significant in speed and wasted energy. The band's wasted energy increases from fork to pouch, and that is why tapers work so well. The smaller the shot, the flatter the initial trajectory, but the faster the drop at distance and the more wind deflection. The larger the shot, the opposite is true. The denser the shot, the better the ballistics are, especially at distance. Because of the smaller diameter for the same weight, you do have to be a tiny bit more precise and your missed shots will be dangerous farther. Harder shot like steel is best for target practice for its lack of deformation and reusability. Softer shot like lead is better for hunting as it imparts shock/energy faster as it deforms. Clay shot is great after initial target practice and walking woods shooting at leaves, tree knots, rocks, etc. to perfect range estimation, and technique shooting at odd angles and positions -- nontoxic, cheap, and less dangerous particularly at distance.

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Don't forget that larger diameter will slow faster as well. Need a speed measurement from closer to the target.

Great video and test Daniel! Like you approach with the different bands which evened up the speeds. The pendulum test soon cool, with the gel you'll probably get the full transfer of energy but I wonder if you tried also with a hard or semi hard pendulum measurements would go? I'm thinking about how steel ricochet so much and maybe retains/absorbs some of the energy and bounces of really hard targets whereas lead doesn't bounce and all goes into the target. Don't know if there is anything scientific in the ricochet factor that would affect energy. (Jude)

I am intrigued with your Ninja92. Visited your Etsy shop and found no products available. Any update on restock or new additions? Thx. 👍

I mean sure lead is going trough better as it has same mass and speed while being smaller ammo so easier to penetrate. But if aiming for shock damage as well better to use steel. As it knocks, let's say rabbit, while penetrating. I assume this, quite sure, as an airgunner and I know how pellet shape and size and shape matters. I have some rather flat hunting pellets feom H&M that expand and do shock damage while same brand has oval tip, Field target pellets, that really penetrare. One is for feathers one for fur.. all in thank u so much for a video as I will stick to 10mm steel anyway, not into lead as I can get it into my organism but when it comes to kills - both will kill, 10mm S or 9mm L

Could you give me some advice, I have 4.5mm steel balls, which band you recommend for this type of ammunition. Slingshot is a WASP Enzo Thickness: 0.45, 0.50, 0.55, or? Thanks

Pretty cool, what is your draw length out of interest?

Energy transfer wise you might also want to consider is over penetration deer bullets aren't good for varmints, your not trying to kill the rabbit behind the first one, so a ballistic pendulum around the correct thickness of your intended target with something like a bundle of bamboo skewers inside to simulate some thin bones. It that situation the larger diameter of 11mm steel might cause more momentum transfer than a 10 or 9 lead due to less penetration.

Dude how did you make that balistic gel

Pro

Qui ero una resortera

Hey man, can you sponsor me 1 feral demon?i will endorse it to my community 🙏🙏🙏

What

Why does it seem that nobody uses the wrist brace styles? They're much easier to shoot so it never made sense to me I guess. Seems like there should be more of the better slingshots with folding wrist braces

Im 65 years old born the Texas, raised in New Mexico. It's hard for me to listen to a guy with a sawed off pony tail on top of his head. Sorry.

1080mm draw !!! what are you, an 8 foot giant ???