Thank you for the suggestion about the cinnamon! We will look into doing this as well. :)

A lot of attention is something I'm lacking in as I have too much other work to do.lol

@@GutenGardening had a problem with coir molding last year and used cinnamon and it didn’t work for us, just had a nauseating odor in the house. Coir needs a lot of perlite added to get it to drain.

Where do you put bag with seeds ? Do you have cold weather or hot ?

@@pyardular I live in mid temperatures at the highest 75 degrees

I'll try that too.

Please is it in warm water or cold water you soak in your pepper before planting? God bless you

​@@tegaboye-ogundiya1715 room temperature

I am having the same issue.

Fantastic! Enjoy, and good luck with germination!

Glad it was helpful!

They can be so picky for sure. But, I think our results bear out that this will help you a great deal. Best of luck!

Our pleasure. Have a wonderful day!

It has worked wonders for us. :)

You're very welcome!

Me 2 ❤❤❤

Our pleasure. It made a big difference for us for sure! Best of luck!

I did soak them last year, and will again this year. And now that I’ve read about chamomile tea, I’ll try that too.

You are so welcome!

Let us know how it works out for your!

Paper towel method, don't do what he did with the pepper seeds. Check them daily. As soon as the first few root, then plant them all into a seed tray. You shouldn't get transplant shock doing that. If they've started to put out the sprout you've waited too long. I'm currently doing this and impatiently waiting for the first seeds to stick their roots out. I'm at day 2 and I didn't presoak seeds. I watched one person get the seed to root in about one day but every other video I watched seems to suggest I have 4 - 7 days before I should see anything. He DID go through a presoak process, but it was maybe 2 - 3 hours and he moved the seeds between hot and cold water a few times at the end of the soaking to simulate day and night. And the other point the person made, the one who got roots in 1 day, is don't use paper towel but instead something more like a gauze pad, a thick one for the bottom and one that holds water well. Lay one on top, doesn't need to be as thick. The water should be enough to keep the seeds wet, but to see water pool up on the top of the stack, you need to push down. This will mean the seed isn't in water but is being kept wet from the top and bottom and air should also get to the seed from the top since it's not soaking in water.

Yes, the up-potting made a big difference for us as well. After a while they can definitely start to languish in the starting mix. We are going to experiment around a bit with what we do with ours this year, but like you, we are hoping for some of the same production as we had last year. :)

Hey this is not very scientific, but I wanted to share my experience on topping with you. Last year I grew 7 varieties of peppers, 6 Plants each. Of every variety three were topped. My lighting was good, so I think that is a big factor. For most varieties there was little to no difference, but with the really tall ones it can help with stability, the plants will stay a bit shorter for the most part. But for smaller varieties which are branching well (like Jindungo) I saw a slight decrease in yield on those which were topped.

@@autisticguitar666 Don't prune peppers (aka don't top them), the fruits get smaller, even if more numerous, the walls are thinner and they stagnate for an extra 2 weeks, so harvest is later than from non-pruned ones.

I love growing peppers also. I think I’m a bit infatuated! I had 29 varieties last year. I’m also in Wi. I must look up those beaver Dam peppers!! 😊🌶

We have to do those Beaver Dam peppers, especially after the year you had!

The seeds need to breathe, never close them up in a thick wet towel without letting them breathe.

true, once the seedlings have a bacterial competition, they probably won’t do so well. you’re probably better off to retry with a new batch of seeds.

I've used the 2 in blocks 2 great success with peppers both bell and hot. I also use a homade soil "plugger" made of pvc I feel is better for bigger plants like tom/pepps it has like a 6 in taproot and I feel it has made more robust plants that are ready for direct transplant into the garden.

@@waynegretzky8464 I had a weird idea the other day for making potato soil blocks. Let me get your opinion on this... So my idea is to get a big plastic tote and fill it half-way with soil, water it in, then add seed potatoes (max 3 per tote), then fill the rest full with soil and again water it in... Then comes the final step that makes this a potato soil block. Slide that tote full of soil and seed potatoes over to where you want your potatoes and flip it over - plop - so the whole chunk of soil pops out as a big block so that basically it is a single individual hill of potatoes. Repeat this until all your seed potatoes are planted and you have a single long row (or double row, etc) of "hill" blocks. If you have hay bales, you can pack the hay against the sides and on top, so it's mulched and then watch and wait. Do you think this would work... and is it a good idea or a bad idea?

Thank you! I have not tried with ghost peppers, but in general, you can germinate them right away. You should dry them if you plant to store them longer term. I hope that helps!

I will check this out. I look forward to seeing what you have done! :)

Excellent! Our new seed starting setups have domes as well. Very helpful for maintaining the humidity rate.

Very good!

And, I've never grown pepper (or nightshade of any kind) micros of course.

If you live near Statham, Georgia look up the seed swap date April 15, 2023 at the at Statham public library to get seeds. It's free.

@@honeybeesinstatham1384 That's about 40 miles from me towards Athens. Thanks! I tend to try to give my seeds away during my live broadcasts 1st and 3rd Thursdays at 8 pm EST.. i have one tonight! Join me!

I reeeally want a red dorset naga plant! Maybe next year.

I would say that, if your ambient temperature keeps the soil mix warm enough, then you don't need a warming pad.

Are you watering from the bottom only, if you water from top it can cause die-off of seedlings

Thank you so much for watching!

That's what I was wondering as well.👍

Great question. No, we didn't. We just let it soak at room temperature. :)

Warmth is only required to get the seed to germinate in a reasonable period of time. Once the seed has germinated and has the cotyledons exposed (the 2 baby leaves) the heat should be removed and now light is important. Leaving seedlings on a heat mat will cause them to stretch upwards (become leggy) and lead to weak plants. I germinate my peppers in a tray of 40 cells which I cut into sets of 6 trays. Each 6 cell tray is planted with the same type of seeds so that the faster germinating seeds (usually the milder peppers) can be removed from the heat mat and placed under grow lights. This means that the 'super hots' that can take upwards of 2 weeks to germiate - even in perfect conditions - can remain on the heat mat. Germinating multiple seed types in a 72 cell tray is asking for trouble!

I have a question please help me. I am new to grown my own garden this year. First I did germinate seeds in pellet coco coin and cover with dorm. But not sure during seeds germinating tray on top of heating mat do I need to turn on LED light or not?

It's great to hear that you've had good results with yellow peppers! When it comes to different pepper varieties, sometimes it can be a matter of trial and error to figure out what works best in your particular growing conditions. Without knowing more details about your specific situation, here are a few thoughts: -Different pepper varieties may have different requirements. It's possible that the red and red/orange blend peppers you tried simply weren't as well-suited to your growing conditions as the yellow ones. -Another possibility is that there was a pest or disease issue that affected the red and red/orange blend peppers but not the yellow ones. Did you notice any signs of damage or disease on those plants? -Lastly, it's possible that it was just a matter of chance or coincidence that the yellow peppers did better. Sometimes plants can be a bit unpredictable, even with the best care. Regardless, don't be discouraged! Keep experimenting with different varieties and techniques, and you'll likely find the perfect combination that works best for you. Good luck and happy gardening!

If you used all of them the same way then the red were bad. The packages very often are not stored well and the seeds are going bad... Buy another package of red once and start over...

Don't do that. See @user-nl5cs7jd4q commet. I left a reply under his comment. It's not hard but it's not really simple either but it gives a very controlled environment for getting the seeds to where they are rooting. You NEVER want to leave seeds in towels and a bag to where they sprout like his had. You don't want to have to use scissors to cut up anything like what he had to do. You only want to get the seeds to where they are rooting and then put them in potting soil.

Great question Jon. Yes, we will typically transplant to a larger container, and if we are able, we will keep both plants alive and just split into two pots at the time of transplanting.

Yes, you can soak tomato seeds before planting them to help improve their germination rate. Soaking tomato seeds can help to soften the seed coat and make it easier for the seedling to emerge.

That's a great suggestion! Thanks for sharing.

Drying pepper seeds before planting them is generally recommended for best results. It may not be 100% necessary, but it helps to prevent mold and fungal growth during germination. That would be my opinion.

We agree with you. Unfortunately, for the sake of the video (and the amount of time it took to record it) things went a little too long. I think that is where the results show some issues. Thank you so much for the comment!

Birds ate them. 😬

I wish you well! We haven't tried anything that hot before, but I know the seeds are expensive!

I save my seeds from my Bellpeppers for the last year ....

Would it not be cheaper to buy a pepper and extract the seeds ?

@@LegendProbablyKnowsIt Not sure,but I have plenty of seeds from this point forward..

Great varieties!

His process was to soak the seed and THEN do these different methods. So, always soak. Then, try these different methods to see which works best for you. However I'll modify one of his techniques and give you some detail about how and why. This is a modification of using paper towels inside a plastic bag. The concept of doing that has multiple problems, one being disease setting in on the seed before you ever get the seeds into potting soil. Get yourself a 10 x 20 inch seed tray. Get yourself a rubbermaid container that is not as tall as the seed tray or about the same height. You want the length and width of the contaner to be about 6 inches. A 4 x 4 inch gauze pad will need to fit in it, laying flat. Get yourself plastic wrap. Get yourself Johnson & Johnson Band-Aid brand Large Gauze Pads. These pads are 4 x 4 inches. This needs to lie flat in that rubbernaid container. Get yourself a large insulated drinking mug. Get yourself a heating mat for the 10 x 20 inch seed trays, one that has temperature control. You'll need one of these anyway for controlling the temp inside a seed tray when you're growing the seedlings. Don't try to save money and get a mat that isn't temperature controlled. A good one, actually it's a 6 pack is the Luxbird 6 Pack 30W Seedling Heating Mats 10" x 20.75" with Thermostat Controller. This allows you to use 1 to 6 heating mats off of the same thermostat controller and electric cord. The heating pads will hook together to form a chain of heating pads. But if you feel you will never need more than one heating pad, save the money and buy 1 heating pad, that's temperature controlled. Another option for the seed tray, if you have problems finding a rubbermaid container that is no more than 2 inches tall is instead of using a 10x20 seed tray, get a box that you can cut down to 4 - 5 inches tall. A heating mat needs to be able to fit into this box. If you need to use a box instead of a seed tray you'll now need a towel that will cover the top of the box instead of plastic wrap. What you are doing is making a controlled environment for the seeds, and it's small enough to where you can put it in your house/apt., not outside. You will first soak the seed for 1 day in mild to luke warm water, as in it feels mild to your fingers, not cool or very warm. You don't want the water to become cool. If you have a large insulated drinking mug this will help keep the water from cooling off quickly. Check the water about every 6 hours and pour out/add a little water to bring the temp up if needed. If you understand water temps, water that feels neutral on your skin is 85 - 90 degrees F. That's what you want for the seeds. After the seeds soak, put a 4 x 4 inch gauze pad in the rubbermaid container. Add FRESH water that's mild to luke warm in the container, not enough to where the pad is under water. Place the seeds on top of that pad. Take about 1/2 the thickness off another 4 x 4 inch pad and lay that over the other pad with the seeds. The goal is that this top pad will wick water up into it, but it's not sitting in the water. This will allow air to get to the seeds but at the same time the seeds are wet, all around the seeds including the top. You then put the lid on the container. You then put the heating mat in the box or seed tray. You then put the heat sensor in the box/seed tray, closer to the top. You then set the container with the seeds on the heating mat. You turn on the heating mat and set the temp for 81 - 82 degrees. You're going to check later to see what this does to the water temp inside the container. If using the seed tray you can then cover it with plastic wrap. This helps to keep the heat in so the heat mat isn't continually running, which will overheat the seeds. Then put a towel over the top to keep it dark. If you had to use a box instead of a seed tray, you probably can't use plastic wrap to cover the top and will just put a towel over it. After about 6 hours remove the towel/plastic wrap, and open up the container and check the water temp. If it feels warm then adjust the themostat to be a couple degrees cooler. If it feels a little cool then adjust the thermostat up. Wait another 6 hours and check the water temp again. If the water feels like already discussed then you can maintain that temperature for the heating mat. Once a day check the seeds to see if any have started to root. As soon as you see a few of them rooting, plant the seeds. Otherwise you're going to make sure the water level is still OK and also empty out a little water and add in some more fresh, luke warm water. This will help to keep any diseases from setting in. Adjust the thermostat if any of the daily checks shows the water temp to be cool or too warm. That's it. As far as planting the seeds you can deal with that on your own of get info elsewhere. What he did with the wet towels was allow the seeds to not only root, but sprout. That's why he had a lot of failure with that method. Don't do that. You need to get the seeds into the dirt as soon as they start rooting. And also when you put the seeds into soil, you need to water with water that's about the same temp. as the water they were soaking in. After that, follow the guidelines for germinating seed in the seed tray, with potting soil.

It's great to hear that most of your seeds have sprouted successfully, but it can be frustrating when a certain type of seed doesn't seem to be growing well. Pepper seeds require consistent moisture and warm temperatures to germinate, but they shouldn't be overwatered or sitting in soggy soil, as this can lead to fungal growth and rot. Have you tried presoaking your seeds to jumpstart the germination process? With proper care and attention, you should be able to improve your pepper seed germination rate and grow healthy seedlings. Good luck!

Bruh can you lend my your geyser, I don’t have one

@@user-jn3sz8zo8g You can use any place where temperature is normal or not cold like kitchen. Point is warm and moist atmosphere with darkness is required