BIG nozzles - HOW they (can) make your 3D prints STRONGER

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Күн бұрын

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Most of you probably have already heard or noticed that 3D prints made with a bigger nozzle are stronger, but why is this? I've tested prints with a 0.4mm and a 0.8mm for their strength to find exactly that out! As a bonus I've also tested if you can avoid changing nozzles and just use wider extrusions instead.
To get the full potential from bigger nozzles make sure that your hotend is able to cope with the additional flow. If not then consider upgrading to an E3D Volcano or Supervolcano Hotend.
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Пікірлер: 308

@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын

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@poisonouslead85 4 жыл бұрын

I believe your strength per time results would have been very different if you were using a higher flow hotend. With a volcano you can print with a 0.8mm nozzle at flowrates that you would not be able to match with the 0.4mm without significantly increasing your print speed which will bring it's own problems. I use a volcano with a 1mm nozzle for the majority of the items that I make because I'm trying to make strong and/or tall objects quickly. On one of my parts I was able to take a day off my print time while reducing print head speed (thereby reducing vibration and improving print quality) vs the one I made with a E3Dv6 clone. This is with the same wall thickness. I am tempted to try your extrusion width trick later to see what results I get, but I'm a little skeptical of getting similar times considering that I'm running 12x the flowrate that you did in the video.

@iliya-malecki 4 жыл бұрын

dude you are the best 3d printing youtuber out there! im working in the field of printing, and i surely dont need no inspiration or curiosity boost, i already have that - and thats why i dont like watching youtube vids about printing, they lack pure information. Thats why you are the best of the best, you dont follow the route of those poularizers, and for the unique info you are giving i keep watching you and i shall watch every single one of your videos for the time i care about this technology.

@RomanoPRODUCTION 4 жыл бұрын

3 mm3/s makes ugly bridges 🐍🐍🐍

@jancko995 4 жыл бұрын

Why do u have z hop activated?

@hellishgrin4604 2 жыл бұрын

I think it's a flawed test because it doesn't compare solid objects, just material volume.

@oddspaghetti4287 4 жыл бұрын

Maybe you ought to write some sort of small guide book summarising all of the proven methods of tweaking a 3d printer to customise produced prints to ones needs.

@ThumbNurBum Жыл бұрын

I'd buy it.

@Splarkszter 6 ай бұрын

There's the playlist "3D printing for engineers" in his channel

@anotherguy9402 2 ай бұрын

Or just a quick and easy to use spreadsheet 😊

@MakersMuse 4 жыл бұрын

Awesome breakdown, I've always wondered if the extrusion width cheat was as strong as just upping the nozzle! I'm a little addicted to big nozzles atm to print pots and such in vase mode, the time saving is really obscene.

@prxrb 4 жыл бұрын

Great work! "Emulating" larger nozzles works very well and is a big reason I prefer e3d style nozzles (as opposed to the pointy, mk8 style nozzles). Something that you may not have encountered in your testing due to 3mm^3/s cap on volumetric flow, I've found that going with extrusion width >150% nozzle diameter can result in extrusions "buckling" as they leave the nozzle, and coming out wiggly and unpredictably. I imagine this is likely due to the extra back-pressure that builds up when extruding large volumes through small nozzles at high speeds. Thus larger nozzles allow you to use larger extrusion widths at higher print speeds, which further increases strength per unit time.

@ifell3 4 жыл бұрын

You've absolutely covered every question I was going to ask, like random infill and time to print!!! Great video as always.

@BTom16 4 жыл бұрын

A huge thank you for the wonderful work you do for the 3d printing community.

@PhillipTorrickeBarton 4 жыл бұрын

I love my 0.8mm nozzle for spiral vase mode prints. Fast and strong prints. Pushing out a 1mm wall thickness (with the 0.8mm) works great too!

@MakerBrain 4 жыл бұрын

I'm just starting out 3D printing, so I've only used the 0.4 millimeter nozzle that the printer came with. However, I hope to experiment with smaller and larger nozzles for different prints in the future. Thanks for another one of the best 3D printing data analysis videos!

@RCL802 4 жыл бұрын

Another very interesting insight, thank you Stefan and it was great seeing you at Form Next!

@rabenklang7 4 жыл бұрын

I would be interested in the best ratio between infill and wall thickness for minimal material use and maximal strength.

@superpilun 4 жыл бұрын

Wow this stuff is fantastic! Please keep up these kinds of videos!

@Californiamartinez 2 жыл бұрын

Amazing work. The community can’t thank you enough!

@regmigrant 4 жыл бұрын

great information, thanks for being so thorough

@UndernetSystems 4 жыл бұрын

Those results sound about right for what I have experienced with larger nozzles. They are great for saving time on large prints.

@arifkg9673 2 жыл бұрын

oh my god these videos are helping me so much its incredible these videos are open for everyone thank you

@jmtx. 4 жыл бұрын

Wow, great set of tests! Thanks for running through the different variations to achieve stronger prints.

@chloemcholoe3280 4 жыл бұрын

LITERALLY 5 MINUTES AFTER I TRIED ON MY VOLCANO WITH A 1.0 DUDE ARE YOU SPYING ON ME :P

@obordes 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your videos. I USe 0.6mm nozzle on a X5S and I like it more and more. Initialty it was to print flex because I always got underextrusion with 0.4. Now I use the 0.6 also for the PLA, keeping layer height at 0.2mm. I like the quality of the print at least a much as with 0.4, even more. Next time, I may try with a Volcano at 0.6mm, it may well be a more versatile solution for the various filement types PLA, PETG, flex, and PTU

@jimmyjohansson84 4 жыл бұрын

Another great video! I've got a 0.6mm nozzle coming soon (I hope, longer shipping time directly from e3d than from aliexpress at the moment :/ ) and it feels like a 0.6mm nozzle would be a great standard nozzle where I can both decrease extrusion width for delicate things with thin walls, but go up to 0.9mm for optimal strength, which is where I'm guessing my current heating limitation for good flow and speed is.

@igorfedik5730 4 жыл бұрын

I use large nozzles for large functional parts. For example I have printed a streered rudder for my kayak with 1 mm nozzle.

@draakevil 4 жыл бұрын

I use a 0.8 nozzle for vases. Makes them more likely to be watertight.

@dude6935 4 жыл бұрын

Have you tried a high extrusion radio on a. 4 nozzle to see if you can achieve the same result?

@draakevil 4 жыл бұрын

@@dude6935 I did once. Wasn't watertight. But I only did .5mm width. I think .6mm is the maximum before you start getting issues from the plastic curling around the nozzle tip. With the .8 nozzle I can do 1.0mm, which is very sturdy.

@rbaumstark 4 жыл бұрын

@@draakevil I commonly print water-tight vases with my 0.4mm nozzle. I've found using 4 bottom layers, 0.6mm extrusion width, and 1.1x extrusion multiplier all together will ensure that plastic really gets squished into every little hole to plug them all up. As for stock E3D nozzles (or clones made to E3D spec), the flat on the tip of the nozzle is the theoretical maximum extrusion width, and is 1.0mm for the 0.4mm nozzle, or 2.0mm for the 0.8mm nozzle. They are all documented here: e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/SMgf2USbusbvTpKT/V6-NOZZLE-ALL-%28Edition-8.1%29.pdf. I generally only go to 80% of those values as a reasonable maximum.

@seriousmaran9414 4 жыл бұрын

.4 can produce a waterproof result and might look better to some but .8 prints faster.

@rbaumstark 4 жыл бұрын

@@seriousmaran9414 If it's vase mode, having a bigger nozzle will only speed up the print time of the bottom layers - the whole spiral part is one long line the same length regardless of extrusion width - have to go thicker layers to speed that part up, or just more mm/s raw speed, which the smaller nozzle will handle better.

@LuLeBe 2 жыл бұрын

I've been using a 0.6mm CHT nozzle for a few weeks now. For my parts (mostly functional, rather simple parts) this still is fine enough and I can just print them much faster at 0.3mm layer height, 0.8mm line width with just 2 perimeters at high speeds. Speed was the main reason for the upgrade (obviously, since it's a CHT).

@Inventorsquare 4 жыл бұрын

Fantastic conclusion and recommendation.

@Mech87a 4 жыл бұрын

When printing something for stength, i use a 1.2 nozzle on a volcano copy hotend. Edit: I also print at 0.6 layer height and use slow speeds. Abit suprised to see that i may aswell just use a smaller nozzle at higher speeds.

@BRUXXUS 4 жыл бұрын

Fantastic and useful information, as usual! :D I'd really love you to do a video about 3D printing material creep.

@grott3n0lm 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video. Inspired by it, i tried printing printing asa with 1mm extrusion-width on a 0.4 nozzle(0.32 layer-height). Its a copy ring for a router. With normal extrusion-width the printed part was very easily destroyable by hand. The Parts with 1mm ew are indestructable by hand. The dimensional acuraricy wasnt great an the surface wasnt pretty. But, man, the stability is insane. And it printed quite faster even with slow 15mm/s...

@sr-de5nz 4 жыл бұрын

Well, I drilled stock 0.4 nozzle with small sewing needle to get it bigger. Increased extruder esteps from factory set 93 to 98 in my old CR10 with less infill... What a time saver.... 😁

@EsotericArctos 2 жыл бұрын

A very interesting comparison and break down. Thank you :)

@elvinhaak 4 жыл бұрын

Hmmm... nice! Now having to test the .8 nozzle with 200% width? A 1.6 mm virtual nozzle... ? Would this work?

@super_salty9189 4 жыл бұрын

Perhaps something to add that me and a few people talked about recently via the comments. Measuring the strength against speed of print on the same layer height and extrusion width. Essentially at what point in material extrusion rate and movement speed does it adversely impact strength ue to lower strength of layer bonds and of course the opposite at what point does performance peak with slow speed when giving material in the layers adjacent and below to heat optimally and become a single solid as opposed to two bonded solids. You somewhat covered it in concept. How with larger nozzles which means a longer melt zone etc etc you can get more material out at a consistent temperature that is melted correctly. But I and many other people would probably love to see the data. For example, at X material output per second the bonding was Y strong. At X*2 speed strength was Z percentage of Y's strength. So we can see how directly proportional the strength to material output capability is.

@o11o01 3 жыл бұрын

I'd imagine that would be very situational. I'd imagine a few variables would be your printers specific cooling setup, length of melt zone, the temperature you're printing at, or the temperature in the room just to name a few.

@allthingsgeek384 4 жыл бұрын

How does the increased extrusion multiplier effect part fitting tolerance? I would expect that as the multiplier increases you may see a marginal to moderate increase in the tolerance gaps but I haven't tested this idea.

@oljobo 4 жыл бұрын

Great info! Thank You!

@exclusivestuffok 4 жыл бұрын

You are the best my friend. Thanks a lot!!

@TheCollinsballin 3 жыл бұрын

I never use .4mm anymore because the die swell adds a hundreds place decimal making it .48mm. Instead, I use .5mm nozzle because the die swell adds an even .1mm creating a realistic .6mm width. Much easier to consider when designing dimensionally accurate parts. The slight increase in nozzle size also increases strength while still being able to retain tiny layer lines.

@TheCollinsballin 3 жыл бұрын

Might I also add that it prevents more clogs with fibrous filaments than a standard .4mm.

@agapiosagapiou 4 жыл бұрын

Interesting results!!!

@vincentbarkley9121 2 жыл бұрын

Your universal load tester makes a trippy sci-fi sound! Love it!

@webgiant7123 4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for making these videos. In addition to your knowledge and adherence to good methodology for your experiments, you have an extremely pleasant voice which makes learning the material much easier and very nice.

@johnhmaw 4 жыл бұрын

I have printed almost all of the lampshades in my house using a 0.6mm nozzle and clear PETG. The PETG that I have been using is a very cheap one and tends to bubble and spit. This, along with the coarse layer height, gives a really nice texture that looks almost woven. On some lampshade designs I have also used Cura' "fuzzy skin" option. Because some of the shades are quite big and because PETG is a bit flexible and I'm printing in vase mode the shades are quite flexible so have to be printed very slowly. Still, who cares if they look good.

@schwuliantatutata7849 Жыл бұрын

If it tends to bubble then you should try drying the filament befor usage.

@PhilHaddon 3 жыл бұрын

Great video as usual. Do you have the tweaked profiles online please I can download? I would like to try with my MK3S .4mm nozzle

@michaelcjeffery4934 4 жыл бұрын

I love your stuff, keep it up

@fowlmouth824 4 жыл бұрын

So the uptake in resin printers has me thinking: Dude! I'd like to, for science, challenge/request/suggest (whatever works!) you to see how strong a part can be made by printing (either method to be honest, UV it FDM) a single wall outline and then filling it with epoxy resin. The idea being that a complicated part can be printed and then have the strength of a single object, with epoxy being difficult at best to shape into complicated parts. Will post this comment on a couple of other channels if you can't be bothered, but it sounds to me like a great for science episode!

@luckybenni3914 4 жыл бұрын

Just saw a similar idea at the Bosch industrial AM booth at the latest formnext where they print the walls with FDM and fill the void with injection molding material to achieve injection molding strength with lot size 1 design flexibility.

@franktkalcevic5342 4 жыл бұрын

It's been done - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n69znsKL1b-Yc6c.html

@fowlmouth824 4 жыл бұрын

Nice, will check out that vid, cheers! And glad I'm about on par with Bosch! 😂

@BorisH2000UK Жыл бұрын

Interesting video, Stefan, as always, many thanks. I wonder if it works the other way around too. For example, my printer normally has 0.6mm nozzle and I needed to print a model with higher quality. I did not want to go through the hassle of changing the nozzle to 0.4, so simply printed a gcode sliced for 0.4 nozzle using a printer with 0.6 nozzle and it worked great. Do you see any issues with that approach?

@leon11235 4 жыл бұрын

What about finding optimal nozzle diameter/extr. width ratio? That could be interesting.

@xarlas1 4 жыл бұрын

I noticed that changing the nozzle-size in cura affects the layer adhsion of the print. If i use my 0.3 nozzle with a 0.4 nozzle setting (still with 0.3 line width) the layer adhesion is better than with the 0.3 nozzle setting

@sonicdudemgvids3451 4 жыл бұрын

Do you consider line overlap with your prints? Some prints aren’t as strong as there are only weak connections with the layer lines with the infill and wall. The extra extrusion pushes more out, but layer overlap % ensures better adhesion an irons the overlap, creating a better fusion with the plastic.

@rapkyt 4 жыл бұрын

Nice video! But what about using a layer height of .6 on the .8 mm nozzle? (With the same wall thickness)

@gianfrancolozupone3271 4 жыл бұрын

The problem of using bigger extrusion widths may be bridges. As in the first layers there is no good support, or no support at all, for the nozzle to squish the plastic. The same for steep overhangs.

@user-ll8hx7no9l 4 жыл бұрын

In Prusia slicer most % values are calculated based on layer hight, not nozzle width. Fell in to this trap too. Using 0.8 for all prints with 1mm extrusion width that ends up in 1.00-1.05 actual width. Makes disign simplier. And prints are actually reliable. (btw. Using abs)

@polmenya2040 4 жыл бұрын

Just checked Prusia slicer. If you put % values into extrusion width parameters, it actually calculates all parameters based of layer hight, and not the nozzle diameter. No wonder there is no actual difference in test results.

@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын

For clarification, I've been putting the values into prusa slicer as numeric values and not as %.

@prajwalaqua 2 жыл бұрын

It would be great to add an additional factor into the experiment, i.e. layer height of the 0.8mm nozzle. so as to compare the print time to strength. Gear videos and thank you

@zanpekosak2383 4 жыл бұрын

I always print with a 0.6mm nozzle with the main reason being my impatience. The details is very similar to 0.4 and the print time is massively reduced.

@godwin3265 4 жыл бұрын

yep.... .6 is my go to...

@GnuReligion 4 жыл бұрын

I am considering this. Is the retraction clean with the 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layers?

@cu3d 4 жыл бұрын

@@GnuReligion try 1.2mm, it's even better :)

@GnuReligion 4 жыл бұрын

@@cu3d I suppose you could over extrude that 1.2mm to 2mm lines, an print in 1mm layers? That would certainly be laying down some material.

@camiloecheverry5210 4 жыл бұрын

What settings do you have to change in the slicer in order to make them work?

@arrowstheorem1881 4 жыл бұрын

Great Channel. Educational

@elarus2 4 жыл бұрын

Hey Stefan, when did you upgrade to the MK3S? Do you enjoy your newer model?

@andreasvogler1875 4 жыл бұрын

I would love to use an 0.8 mm nozzle on my MK2.5 but I don't know which parameters to change to get optimal results. Any suggestions?

@Ottobawt 4 жыл бұрын

Could you check the results with 0.8 nozzle at above 50% layer heights? like 0.4 / 0.5 / 0.6 heights? I've been printing strong parts for a long time, and was always under the impression, with a larger nozzle, that around a 50% layer height to nozzle width ratio was ideal, atleast with 110% width.

@nelsonsantiagoperezmelian3276 3 жыл бұрын

Great video man!, are there any 3d industrial printers of perhaps 3-5 m with that you know?

@DNIWEDONNOE 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks fo great video!

@vremebgvremebg457 4 жыл бұрын

Great video as always love your content! One important remark: extrusion multiplier 200% is NOT the same as double nozzle diameter. The flow through a twice bigger nozzle is FOUR times bigger. That is why you have holes on the 200% print. It is two times under-extruded. Should be 400%.

@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын

No, it isn't, as long as you leave the layer height the same.

@josiahong5177 2 жыл бұрын

I'm pretty sure he was talking abt extrusion width. In this case, the slicer should adapt to extrude 400% the material, and then doubling the layer height should double the volume once more. I might be wrong with my math however.

@josiahong5177 2 жыл бұрын

The main perk of a 0.8mm nozzle is the lower extrusion backpressure and the capsbility of larger layers. Its easier to print TPU for example and you dont need as strong of an extruder with a larger nozzle compared to printing the same settings with a smaller nozzle. What happens if you have a 1.75mm nozzle with 1.75 mm filament? Not a CHT, just a standard round bore nozzle?

@ApexPredatorOutdoors 3 жыл бұрын

Guten Tag! What nozzle size do you recommend for CF Nylon where strength and looks are necessary?

@UnixTServer 4 жыл бұрын

Could you modify your test machine to do a 3 point bend test and then see if printing at higher temperatures changes the deflection in parts?

@jetbaroudi677 4 жыл бұрын

Can you do a review on the LW-PLA from Colorfabb. Im into 3D printing rc airplanes and id like to know if half the weight really means half the strength. Thanks!

@diyfrombelarus 4 жыл бұрын

thanks!

@us3rnam3144 4 жыл бұрын

print with a .6 and 2 walls, i used to print in a .4 and 3 walls but basically its a time saver making the swap

@pospc2 3 жыл бұрын

I have been messing around lately with trying to tell the slicer I have a bigger nozzle. I find that telling cura I have a .5mm but use a .4mm I get less failure and faster prints when using PETG it seems to be the sweet spot.

@MrFastFox666 4 жыл бұрын

I use a 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzle for large parts that don't need to look nice or for prototypes. They print super fast. For other prints, that need to look nice, i use a 0.4mm nozzle. I'm experimenting with a 0.2mm nozzle as well, but I only have petg at the moment and it's very hard to print with it. I had like 2g of PLA, and that worked great for the very bottom of a 50% size Benchy

@FabioKlabund 2 жыл бұрын

Muito instrutivo. Obrigado pelas informações de total importância.

@davidabraham3873 3 жыл бұрын

Awesome vid

@Xaqaria 4 жыл бұрын

I appreciate the time and effort you go through doing these tests. I use 0.8 a lot. I primarily print prototype or functional pieces and I'm targeting speed. I am curious about what the data would like like for 0.8mm at 1.6mm. It would also be interesting to see how these modifications affect overhangs. As the ratio of layer height to nozzle diameter decreases, the ability to support greater overhang angle should improve. This would inform the user of optimal overhangs based on the nozzle diameter, extrusion width, and layer height.

@Xaqaria 4 жыл бұрын

It would also be interesting to see how changing the extension width differently for outer perimeters, inner perimeters, and infill affects the strength vs. finish quality of the outer skin.

@3dventor979 4 жыл бұрын

Do you upgrade the heat block to be longer or use the same heatblock?

@TheThunderwars 2 жыл бұрын

I've been using the 0.4mm nozzle for three years but my printing times for larger pieces (Electric Unicycle accessories especially...) were uncacceptable. I switched to 0.6mm nozzle with 0.4mm layer height, printing time became much more acceptable, I can really see the part growing along the day and it's very satisfying. The parts are also at least as strong and for big pieces I don't really miss the defition (if anything it looks better and fuller).

@jgarmer 4 жыл бұрын

i tried to increase width and the prints always failed when i exceeded the nozzle size

@thespacecowboy420 2 ай бұрын

I print solid 2020 bracket parts from PETG with a .6 nozzle, .6 width, .4 layer height, and they are crazy strong.

@konqi6520 4 жыл бұрын

I love your videos, keep up the good work!

@henrykzajac8001 4 жыл бұрын

If I may suggest test for you. Would like to see test hook mold in silicone, and then casts with various types of resin, and comapre them to 100% infill 3d printed hooks :3

@border056 4 жыл бұрын

I found that lowering part cooling significantly increases layer adhesion and part strength. If I’m printing something that needs to be stronger I will try to get away with a little or no cooling if possible.

@lupixus 4 жыл бұрын

What about dimensional accuracy? If you use a higher flow rate, is it possible to afect dimensions in XY plane? I think that depends on slicer algorithms. I've tested dimensional accuracy on a prusa i3 mk3s using cura 4.4 and for a 0.4 wall thickness and default 95% flow, it was spot-on. But in prusa slicer, i had a 0.48 wall thickness.

@Blargedy 3 жыл бұрын

May I have the printer profile you use for the 0.8mm nozzle? Prusa slicer and the firmware only support up to 0.6mm, so any larger would have to be custom.

@dreggory82 4 жыл бұрын

I recommend doing a video on HDPE filament. I think it would be a huge benefit because of its many awesome properties including recyclability.

@briansegarra9312 4 жыл бұрын

Do that and even exist? Hdpe warps like crazyyy

@fabber133 2 жыл бұрын

such wow much nice very informative

@rodsnyder6020 4 жыл бұрын

I have a 0.6mm Nozzle in my CR 10 mainly to reduce printtime while harnessing the full build volume. With the Stock firmware on it I don't want to run this printer nonstop for days. I like to print thick single wall vases and functional parts that print fast. I also use overextrusion with those vases to increase the wall thickness to 0.9mm. Since the tip of the Micro swiss nozzles doesn't have that much surface area in comparison to an E3D nozzle I can only go up to 0.9mm without squish artifacts.

@Goronar 4 жыл бұрын

I usually print with 0,8mm nozzle, with 0,2mm layer height. The thing is that I don't print in pla, I use petg, abs nylon etc. And the difference in layer adhesion with this plastics without an enclosure is extremely notable. It's really simple the reason why, as you are printing more material, the temp cooldown of it is longer, so the adhesion between layers is better (the piece is hotter as you print). Also with some pieces I have problems of excesive temperatures between layers, normally small pieces (printing one at the time). As I said before, it's better to test with higher melting point plastics, PLA is not the better plastic to check for better layer adhesion, since with a normal 3d printer you get really good strengh of it.

@RushMyEx 3 жыл бұрын

Can someone explain to me again? I have 0,4mm nozzle and use Cura for my Anycubic Mega S. How do I recreate a 0,8mm nozzle virtually? What are the settings ins Cura to be changed ?

@tS-gh9dj 3 жыл бұрын

I have two ender three and I recently just equipped a 1 mm nozzle it’s the best thing ever. you can still do smaller layer lines like .3 mm but it’s just so much quicker.

@deanlegg418 Жыл бұрын

Hi what nozzle temperature are you running

@XSI44 3 жыл бұрын

Can you use standardized samples like from ISO or DIN standards? The hook is nice but that way I can't compare it to other materials.

@tigranohanyan3321 2 жыл бұрын

I have a standard printer with 0.4m nozzle and I use 0.2 mm layer height most of the time. If I change for 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4 mm layer height, do I need to change only (nozzle and layer height) parameters in my slicer or I need also to change a program?

@supermerill 4 жыл бұрын

Just a note about your weight discrepancy and extrusion width in slic3r/prusaslicer. Detailed explanation: manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math basically, 2 perimeters of 0.42mm width don't create a 0.84mm width perimeter but a 0.84 - layer_height * (1 - PI/4), so for 0.15 layer height you have ~0,808mm width => less plastic. With 4 perimeters, it's 4 * 0.42 - 3* layer_height * (1 - PI/4) ~=1,583 (and not 1,68). This thing become very important strength-wise if you want to extrude a wall with only perimeters. Because if your wall isn't near enough the real width, you may have a weaker bonding between perimeters (almost not touching and not enough empty space to extrude gap fill).

@samk2407 10 ай бұрын

The reason I moved to a bigger .6 mm nozzle was bot for strength, but for the bigger layer heights and hence faster printing. So I still think bigger nozzles have significant advantages

@Moliuan 4 жыл бұрын

In previous tests for layer height and extrusion width you used percentage of the nozzle diameter. do those findings still hold with bigger nozzles?

@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын

The ratios probably but haven't tested it.

@madvelila Жыл бұрын

What retraction settings you guys are using with 0.8mm nozzle and direct drive when printing petg?

@saschathiede 4 жыл бұрын

Can you make a video about different nozzle materials like brass, hardened steel and tungsten? Maybe you could measure there thermal conductivity by measuring the layer adhesion at same print speeds.

@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын

In the works ;-)

@vladimirseven777 4 жыл бұрын

There is already chart on Trianglelabs available.

@vsuley Жыл бұрын

Love the video! Is it possible to use 210% EW with a 0.8mm nozzle?

@stevenmeans4881 4 жыл бұрын

I think it's importent to mention the extrution method, Bowden or Direct Drive. I'm pretty sure a bowden generally can't handle the higher extrusion pressure of doubling the extrusion width but a direct drive should be fine.

@ptitjoueurtranquille 4 жыл бұрын

I mainly use 1mm nozzle with 0,5 layers. I use it for printing faster and stronger easily. And in bonus it Make cheap filament look better + it make wood filament and suchlike printable without worrying about clogging the nozzle.

@gauthierquercia5540 4 жыл бұрын

hi, what's your anti vibration setup? what's under the tile? fantastic video by the way.

@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын

Just some foam under there.

@plasmashears 4 ай бұрын

I originally switched to larger nozzles because I'm impatient, but I've since leaned into nozzle diameter as a major consideration at the part design level. IMO, this is a really efficient way to design and print functional parts with great strength (and speed). they don't look amazingly high-res, but you can't beat the performance and time.

@darrinbrunner6429 4 жыл бұрын

This was helpful, and I've been hoping you'd address this aspect of the process. My need is for large (approx. 500X500X1000mm assembled), strong parts printed as fast as possible with no regard for appearance, as the parts are completely covered by other material in the final product. The 3d printed part will provide only structure. My current plan is to set up a Modix Big60 with a 2mm nozzle. Playing around in Cura tells me that I should be able to get one full product printed in under 30 hours. I'm hoping that once the machine is in house and dialed in, I can get it down to

@olawlor 4 жыл бұрын

The hard part about giant parts is dealing with curl--I printed an 800x300mm multipane window in PETG on a 1.5mm nozzle at 1mm layer height, and despite the enormous brim mostly successfully holding it to the 75C heated bed, the vertical planes actually warped enough to require post-print straightening. I'd look at a heated build chamber, as hot as you can get it, and/or filament with glass or carbon fiber to reduce thermal shrink.

@kevinbell1138 3 жыл бұрын

SERIOUS print failures occurring when "extruder width" percentage is well beyond "layer height". My experience causing extruder to bump into previously printed layer wall, resulting in layer shifts/print failure. LAYER SHIFT issue completely resolved when "extruder width" percentage result, is slightly below "layer height". Simplify3D has AUTO EXTRUDER width option, this "auto" fails terribly when using LARGER nozzles over 0.4mm (LAYER SHIFTS/NOZZLE BUMPING). With the FolgerTech's FT-5's direct drive extruder.

@derelshell4899 Ай бұрын

Just upgraded from wonder 3 with a 1mm nozzle to a Bambu labs ps1. I usually print home decor like pots and wall art that utilizes slightly thicker layer lines usually around .5 mm height and 1.5 mm width. I want to know if I should buy the .8 hotend from bambu or go for a .6 high flow rate hotend from E3D, any thoughts?

@antonwinter630 4 жыл бұрын

the resin suppliers like ifun are starting to advertise tough resins such as "ABS like". i'd love to see some of these resins being strength tested

@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын

Watch this : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pKqBnamm3r29Y2w.html And that : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qtVjgtuKt8XTYX0.html

@gg-gn3re 4 жыл бұрын

Would you do a strength/quality review on something like thordsen3d.com/ ? Curious if it helps with adhesion or anything like that. I use one to heat my filament it helps since it's cold here and my hot end can't handle high speeds during winter I found out this month lol, so instead of upgrading the hot end I turned the heat up 30C and the print started doing really well. I just got the inline heater yesterday to test out the pre heating and of course that works really well. It now goes into my hotend already at 65C instead of 15.5C like in my shop. I use PETG so it does more for that than it would for PLA probably (just assuming that)