Inside a ShangFang temperature controller

Рет қаралды 64,140

Күн бұрын

Compared to the generic eBay units, this temperature controller is much better built and uses traditional power components and an external high current relay.
The HVAC techs can judge will be the true reference if this type of module is reliable or not, as they may have come across them in use.
The power supply is a traditional potted 2VA transformer, and the external relay means that when it does inevitably fail due to the number of switching cycles, it can be swapped easily without messing around with the controller and settings.
The circuit design is traditional and very time-proven with good filtering on the thermistor input.
This particular unit is a heating controller that could be used directly with resistive heating loads.
It's notable that the PCB is a standard unit with the provision for two thermistors (plus circuitry for a third) and the capability of driving up to three external relays. It has provision on the module for a fourth button and a sounder.
These are normally quite expensive, even on eBay, and I lucked out with a more affordable one being sold as a "refrigeration controller" when in fact it turned out to be a heating version.
The display unit normally shows the measured temperature, but if the button is pressed briefly it flashes the set temperature and allows the user to adjust it within a range that has been determined by the installer.
To program the unit the installer or service engineer holds the set button in for six seconds. When E1 is displayed the set button can be used to step through the options and the up/down buttons used to adjust them as follows.
E1. The lowest temperature that can be set by the user.
E2. The highest temperature that can be set by the user.
E3. Hysteresis - the number of degrees from the set value that the unit activates.
E4 Delay start - a time from zero to ten minutes that avoids frequent cycling of the load.
E5 Thermistor calibration - allows the accuracy to be adjusted vs a calibrated thermometer.
C1 Units of measurement - Celsius or Fahrenheit.
If no button is pressed for ten seconds the unit stores the new settings and reverts back to its normal display.
The hysteresis setting is to avoid rapid cycling of the load by adding a few degrees between on and off. If hysteresis is set to 3 degrees and the set temperature is 18 degrees then the unit will turn off the heater when it reaches 18 degrees, but not turn it back on until the temperature drops to 15 degrees. (18 minus the hysteresis value.)
The delay start is a time setting to allow a load like a compressor to equalise pressure to reduce the risk of stalling if cycled off and on quickly, and also to reduce the stress on equipment caused by frequent starting. In the case of a heating unit like this one it may be set to zero.
The COP mode may be a way to save the current settings as the new factory default ones to allow fast recovery after someone has tampered with them.
Let me know if you've come across these in the wild, and how reliable they are.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of KZfaq's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators

Пікірлер: 239

@TvistoProPro 5 ай бұрын

The COP menu item is likely used to copy the current settings over the "default" factory settings. Generally to do this, you get to the COP entry and then within 3 seconds hit the "OK" button (which in your case is likely the Set button). It will then say "YES" and stores the values to the internal flash as the default values. That's how a similar model I have works, in any case.

@AdityaMehendale 5 ай бұрын

Captain! Thanks :)

@andrewpatterson5349 5 ай бұрын

Its more likely to be "Contactor Operation" ....which means you could use it for cooling.

@User70188 5 ай бұрын

@@andrewpatterson5349 Why would they code such a feature when the user can just change to an NC-relay? It seemed like there was only two COP-options, 12 and 15. Do you think they are a choice between IEC utilization categories? (AC-12 is control of resistive loads and solid state loads, and AC-15 is control of AC electromagnetic loads)

@t1d100 5 ай бұрын

Could it be to set a security code to prevent the settings from being changed by unauthorized personnel?

@ThriftyToolShed 5 ай бұрын

@@andrewpatterson5349 That was my thoughts as well. Almost all controllers I have ever worked with allow for heating or cooling operation settings.

@mickb6285 5 ай бұрын

How refreshing to see a traditional transformer, instead of the usual self destructing switched mode units normally used these days.

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

It also seems to be a standard style of transformer too. I found one at my main electronic component supplier.

@nobodyuknow4911 5 ай бұрын

After many years of tearing electronics apart, Clive comes across one device that intends to call a COP to prevent its fated destruction.

@gregorythomas333 6 ай бұрын

For those that need it...the model number for the 110VAC version is: SF-102(SH)

@lii1Il 5 ай бұрын

TY!

@johndododoe1411 5 ай бұрын

Would that be a different bundled transformer?

@gregorythomas333 5 ай бұрын

@@johndododoe1411 The ones I found do have a different transformer with 110VAC input using this wording on the listing: SF-102 Thermostat Controller Electronic Temperature Thermostat Freezer US NEW

@johndododoe1411 5 ай бұрын

@@gregorythomas333 So either mislabeled or the refrigeration variant .

@gregorythomas333 5 ай бұрын

@@johndododoe1411 Since I was looking for the refrigeration type I used the word "Freezer" in the search...just adjust the wording for your needs

@KeritechElectronics 6 ай бұрын

An interesting controller, I like the external transformer and relay connection. Makes it so easy to interface with different control devices - relays, SSRs, contactors.

@jessstrap2088 5 ай бұрын

For a moment I thought the last type of control device you listed was contractors. I was very amused.

@d614gakadoug9 5 ай бұрын

The internal transistor and power supply are unlikely to be adequate to drive a contactor. You could, of course, use a small "pilot" relay for the contactor coil. BEWARE! Some contactors have two coils - a low resistance coil that pulls the armature home and a high resistance coil that keeps the armature pulled. A microswitch that is opened when the armature is pulled opens the circuit to the high-current coil. This is a good arrangement for saving power and keeping the contactor from running hot due to coil current, but it is a rude surprise if you aren't prepared for it.

@somedude2492 4 ай бұрын

@@jessstrap2088 if you use a high enough voltage, contractors can also start working

@pr0xZen 4 ай бұрын

I disagree, if you use high enough voltage, contractors tend to _stop_ working. Sometimes permanently.

@heavydiesel 5 ай бұрын

In over 30 years I can't remember seeing one of those 12v transformers fail. Usual failure on those style controllers in refrigeration applications is the compressor relay sticking on.

@NiHaoMike64 5 ай бұрын

HVAC techs often find control transformers burned out from short circuits, as can happen by a homeowner miswiring a new thermostat.

@Richardincancale 5 ай бұрын

7:31 minimum restart time is very useful for heat pumps (which also contain a compressor) - for example Daikin recommends a minimum of 6 minutes between runs.

@rimmersbryggeri 5 ай бұрын

Some times there are setting for different probe types in the hidden menu. so you can change between TC and RTD measurement etc also different TC types.

@wimwiddershins 6 ай бұрын

Very nice for serviceability, especially the external relay.

@ConstantlyDamaged 6 ай бұрын

Also makes it more versatile too. Need it to drive a bigger motor? Get a bigger relay. Want to have a whole bank of these? Get a bigger transformer and run them all off it.

@johndododoe1411 5 ай бұрын

@@ConstantlyDamagedCircuit also works from a DC supply that happens to power a larger control system . It looks like it can even run from an industrial 24V DC system .

@ConstantlyDamaged 5 ай бұрын

@@johndododoe1411 Yeah, built for quality and flexibility-rather than to be the cheapest.

@volkris 5 ай бұрын

Just to emphasize the point that other people have made, the external transformer and relay aren't just good for maintenance but also for systems where you already have the appropriate power and something else to switch. Just for example you can use this as a temperature monitor hooking the power side into a computer interface and the relay side into an ADC or digital readback. In that case you might not want a relay involved at all.

@JohnnyX50 5 ай бұрын

We have similar devices behind the bottom cover of our chilled display fridges at work. I was watching the engineers re-gas a faulty unit once and I believe the defrost side is an element very similar to a grill in an oven, sat in the bottom of a drip tray where the hot side of the pipework is coiled up and sits in with it, presumably to boil off water from condensation as our fridges do not have a plumbed drain on them. In the freezers it will run around the cold side to melt off any build up of ice, but the freezers are connected to a local drain due to the amount of water that will be generated. I also believe the "data" line on the unit is connected to a wall mounted device called a 'Plant Watch Pro' in our shop which monitors the state of the fridges and displays their current temperature and can be programmed to call an engineer if a fault condition occurs or the fridge runs too warm for too long, setting off an internal alarm on the panel which has to be acknowledged by a user who then decides if an engineer is required. Fascinating stuff and I guess most people wouldn't know supermarkets go to great lengths to make sure food is kept in safe conditions (albeit a law requirement anyway lol) Thank you :D Id love to get one of those temperature things to muck about with. Could COP be a short hand of Compressor Overload Protection? meaning after a set time a user thinks is too long for a compressor to run, regardless of temperature set it will shut of power to the compressor for overheat protection? Not sure. x

@JH-tc3yu 5 ай бұрын

Completely depends on the system. There is no one defrost system type even on similar equipment, to say nothing of the fact that medium temp refrigeration circuits generally don't even have defrost heaters, they just use air defrost and keep the fan spinning while cycling the compressor off

@soupflood 5 ай бұрын

COP can't mean compressor overload protection the way you explained it, because the compressor may run for much more than an hour after the deicing is done, or after the fridge has been started warm. The overload protection may only be used following an off cycle, setting the minimum wait time until the next on cycle, in minutes.

@ThePopolou 5 ай бұрын

I was contemplating something like this for my AV rack. If anyone wanted the equivalent controller for cooling, it is SF-104S-2.

@jerrydurand4127 5 ай бұрын

the delay time is also good for recovery from power failures. Setting 1 minute will prevent it chattering on a messy power up. I just had a relay burn out from that very reason.

@3zuli 5 ай бұрын

It's interesting that they left all three output channels populated despite only using one. The pads on the right with 0 ohm resistors look like configuration jumpers. Maybe you could enable the additional functionality and outputs just by bridging the correct combination of pads?

@EricJorgensen 5 ай бұрын

Most STC-1000 clones have heat and cool outputs and operate both cycles. This is handy for things like fermentation chambers (for brewing or baking) where you may want to target a temperature that is higher or lower. Add a couple external spdt relays and you can control a thermoelectric device to behave as both heater and cooler.

@mikeceresini2364 5 ай бұрын

Sure, but it would always be running, there would be no delay between heating and cooling.

@EricJorgensen 5 ай бұрын

@@mikeceresini2364 nope! You can set hysteresis and minimum on and off cycles.

@mikeceresini2364 5 ай бұрын

Yeah, but there's only one output on this unit, so your first relay is either on or off. The STC-1000 has two outputs so you can set cold and hot points, but the output is via two separate relays.

@mikeceresini2364 5 ай бұрын

I may have misunderstood your first message, I thought you were saying it was possible to have this unit perform the same as the STC-1000.

@YodaWhat 5 ай бұрын

*COP* _might_ mean *Coefficient of Performance* (of a heat pump), which could be calculated approximately from three temperature inputs, in the model equipped with all three.

@HolarMusic 5 ай бұрын

Oh wow, congratz on the 1 million subs

@thepagan5432 5 ай бұрын

This seems to better than the normal controller being available. A very interesting post, thank you Clive 👍

@theDane70 5 ай бұрын

Cool, I have worked with most temperature controllers, like you mentioned some only do a good job at heating or cooling but some can have multiple stages I have worked with some that had 4 stages that can be used for heating or cooling so you could use multiple heating systems or cooling and they also have a hysteresis function so it learns how long it takes to heat or cool an area when you want the best temperature control...

@user-yn8mz5bf9y 5 ай бұрын

The Coefficient of Performance (COP) of any heat pump will vary as either the inlet temperature or the heat pumps outlet temperature varies. As the inlet temperature increases from the ground, the COP will also increase. That multiple is known as the Coefficient of Performance or COP. As the temperature warms up outside the COP increases. Compared to electric resistance heat, even at -5 F, a heat pump puts out 2x more heat than a resistance heater using the same amount of energy input, or it is 2X as efficient.

@TomCee53 5 ай бұрын

Clive, I just got sent this link and I thought I’d share it with you. It seems like a great source for video ideas, in case you’re running low. I know you’ve already seen some, but others might be new to you. I love all of your content. Thanks for all you do! 😊

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

There's definitely no shortage of stuff to make videos about.

@lezbriddon 5 ай бұрын

nice to see ferrules on the end of multicore cable, on friday i went to change a cracked junction box, ferruled the twisted light cable, only to find then they would not go into the terminals... brilliantly compatibility of products, thanks fixscrew.....

@SiaVids 5 ай бұрын

On a very similar looking controller by Danfoss the COP parameter is for configuring the compressor timing.

@TheGhungFu 5 ай бұрын

I made my sous vide pot using a similar device and a cheap slow cooker. Works great.

@clivequinn8978 6 ай бұрын

Looks a nice piece of kit.

@ThunderBassistJay 5 ай бұрын

Still one of my favorite channels. 👍

@mikebond6328 5 ай бұрын

Practically every consumer product sold in the U.S. in the last 40 plus years has been manufactured in an Asian factory which means anyone smart enough to figure out how to set up one of those controllers is very familiar with the centigrade temperature scale as well as the metric system.

@jeremyvoshage2410 5 ай бұрын

Sick little temperature control combo. Wish there was a cooling version

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

There are cooling versions.

@grantrennie 6 ай бұрын

Thanks for another great video Clive 👍 Have a perfect day everyone 👋

@dcallan812 6 ай бұрын

Its been snowing that HAS to be a good day. Hope your day is full and happy.

@richardbrobeck2384 5 ай бұрын

Very nicely made !

@tronixfix 5 ай бұрын

No way… i’ve ordered one when your video came out without knowing that you also got one. Need mine to repair a cooled show case.

@amorphuc 6 ай бұрын

Very cool. Thanks Big Clive.

@thiesvanderkooij8421 5 ай бұрын

I figured those circuit board connecrors out the hard way. Had un and redone some connections onto a dimmer a few times to many and it snapped off. I ended up soldering the wire onto the remaining pin which was also my very first soldering attempt. It seems to have worked as it still works fine and hasnt blown up.

@Mike-H_UK 5 ай бұрын

Great circuit. I think that I would have been tempted to place the NTC & 10k resistor filtering on the other side of the 22k resistor, but this is not a biggie!

@englematic 5 ай бұрын

Process Tech here. If this is indeed for a heat pump, COP may mean Coefficient of Performance. For my (company's) money, I use Love and Jumo temperature controllers when I need standalone PID temperature control. They're well documented and that alone is worth the premium.

@lii1Il 5 ай бұрын

Love it! Want it! I need to control it with a blackberry pico and C. Ty!

@rimmersbryggeri 5 ай бұрын

I thing you should probably use an external with all these small temperature controllers. I removed the internal relay in mine and jumpered the contacts accordingly to use it with a solid stater relay without risking the internal relay failing. I have heard that it is not uncommon for recovered relays to be used in the cheap knock off pid controllers among other things.

@alphabuilders 4 ай бұрын

In HVAC COP is co-efficient of performance, basically a measure how much energy a heatpump (like a fridge or heating and cooling air conditioner for example) moves compared to how much the compressor consumes.

@gd.ritter 6 ай бұрын

Could you not just swap your load between Normally open and Normally closed on the relay to change if it's effectively heating or cooling?

@sootikins 5 ай бұрын

Yes, but the hysteresis won't work as expected. When temperature became greater than Setpoint It would cool down to (Setpoint - Hysteresis) degrees. Of course you could unintuitively set your Setpoint to (Desired Temp + Hysteresis) degrees and it would behave more like a proper cooling controller.

@sedsberg77 5 ай бұрын

We have a panel at work with a bunch of semi-cheap controllers like these. After about a year they work best as flashing christmas lights.

@PetraKann 5 ай бұрын

Big Clive with a STC 1000. Even 20 years ago, a similar electronic device would be quite expensive and much larger and heavier

@chaos.corner 5 ай бұрын

I have a cheap one that came with a mini-kiln. Unfortunately, the simple on/off is not very appropriate so I replaced it with a Raspberry Pi and wrote some PID software (That also does cone firing schedules). I use an even cheaper one with a 400W heater to keep my pipes from freezing in our extension.

@user-neo71665 5 ай бұрын

Interested in what you searched for to find this. I use those cheap ones on incubators for hatching eggs and have only had a few fail in many years. I'd always be interested in a better one esp if cheaper.

@user-hn2sw5ud8q 5 ай бұрын

really like these videos

@ricardobranco7357 5 ай бұрын

Tend to use them on motorbike tyre warmers, cheap enough ive had to replace a few as they can fail at the screen though board interface. I ended up getting a touch version, there are a few different types all called STC-1000.

@steamer1 5 ай бұрын

12:43 "they're comin' aff" ×2. The true Scot seeping through the 'telephone voice' there. Has tae be done to make it in KZfaq. Naebdy wid ken whit wir talkin aboot, erwise.

@betterbackwards2701 5 ай бұрын

Think the COPE setting is for tuning the unit to thermostat or messing with it to raise your max setting. I had to boost this to increase the hotplate temp on the coffee maker. The alarm was driving me nuts!

@MsLancer99 5 ай бұрын

I like that Temperature controller with a separate power supply and relay.

@ExitSignAficionado 5 ай бұрын

if you change the relay and connected the load on NC contacts the controller can be used for cooling instead of heating

@acmefixer1 6 ай бұрын

This unit was definitely made for a professional, with separate xformer and relay. Consumers would not want to deal with figuring out how to connect this all up - just give them a unit with everything all in one box so less hassles and less mistakes they can make. Another plus was the sealing up the case to keep out moisture, dirt, etc. What's ironic is that the previous owner needed one for refrigeration, and he didn't know that this one was already set up inside for refrigeration, all it needed was a few wires changed. And as a result, Clive got a bargain!

@bigclivedotcom 6 ай бұрын

Although it has the circuitry, the software seems for heating.

@acmefixer1 6 ай бұрын

@@bigclivedotcom It might be that unknown menu choice you found is to change to refrigeration?

@DjResR 5 ай бұрын

Change the relay contacts from NO to NC maybe?_

@M4RC90 5 ай бұрын

@@DjResR That could maybe work? Although the hysteresis logic would be backwards. And what is the minimum temperature that can be set? If it's 0°C it might not be too useful for freezing, depending on the specific use case of course.

@johndododoe1411 5 ай бұрын

@@M4RC90If the minimum time logic applies in both directions, there's no difference in logic . Compressors are used for both heating and cooling in aircondition, so protecting compressors is not a refrigeration-only feature .

@msmith2961 4 күн бұрын

I wonder if the '3rd thermistor' provision is actually for cold junction compensation.

@jeremyvoshage2410 5 ай бұрын

Closes "quality version" of the STC-1000 is a XR06CX which can pretty much do anything with it's extreme parameter settings.

@shaunclarke94 5 ай бұрын

How are switches multiplexed? Surprised it wasn't software or jumper configurable for heating/cooling though. Would simplify inventory by only having a single unit.

@ThanosSustainable 5 ай бұрын

I suspect this is a way older model than the modern generic ones. I have used a few of the generics, once had an issue with a relay, while switching an old fridge. Generic units are made for cooling and heating.

@paradiselost9946 5 ай бұрын

used one in an incubator. was good for a season. then magic brown smoke and a lot of eggs to throw out.... i have a vague feeling it was to do with all the fluff. incubators are bad for "lint"... now its got a slightly different external one. direct mains plug. waiting for the fan to blow up next... its starting to sound a bit off after five years of feather sheaths flying around. other one i have is the peltier type. WK....1340? im not hunting through boxes to check! something like that. very good for terrariums and mushroom cultivation... not quite as accurate, 1 degree increments versus 0.1. for what it does thats acceptable. not so good for an incubator though, and i cant see a need for cooling... even if it was 42C the other day...

@007floppyboy 5 ай бұрын

Not over keen on using a single diode for snubbing the relay coil, this can lead to premature wear on the contacts, as it takes 10-20-30mS longer to open the contacts properly. I use a diode with a matched resistor (normally around 10 x the voltage, so 12V would be 120ohms ish) in series, placed in parallel with the coil. This kills the spike just as quick but also stops the relay from bouncing or re-energising, keeps the opening of the contacts as fast as possible. You can also use a matched MOV but these are more expensive and give little gain over the diode and resistor. the wattage of which only needs to be 1/4 or 1/8. If you are using coils on pneumatics of hydraulics (valves) then dont bother with the resistor, 10-20mS slower wont damage them, in fact it helps control fluid bounce in hydraulics.

@d614gakadoug9 5 ай бұрын

It is far too common to see a diode smacked across a relay coil, with no regard for the consequences to the contacts. Often it really doesn't matter but when you have relay controlling something like a motor and frequent cycling is expected, you really want to spend a few moments thought and a few extra cents to be kind to the contacts. _Tranzorb_ type power zener suppressors are another alternative and better than MOVs. MOVs do have a wear-out mechanism whereas the power zener devices don't. The power zeners also have better defined voltage characteristics so you can confidently more closely match the voltage allowable across the relay coil to the voltage rating of the switching device. There's nothing wrong with the D & R method if you have room on the board. You can select the resistor value for any peak voltage you want. You do need to be mindful of the transient power handling ability of the resistor. Thin film types are generally not very tolerant of large transients.

@007floppyboy 5 ай бұрын

@@d614gakadoug9 yep, used transorbs as well, but another cost premium. Pay ya pennies, make ya choice. Main thing is to not just shove diodes in without thinking about the consequences.

@phonotical 6 ай бұрын

Are they using the display upside down, to get the led under OUT to be on...

@bigclivedotcom 6 ай бұрын

They are using the display upside down and a decimal point as the output indicator.

@clutch2827 5 ай бұрын

That first one you showed is what Peopoly is putting in their 3D resin printers.

@LeifNelandDk 5 ай бұрын

Heat or cold, just a question of using NO or NC on the relay.

@RFC3514 5 ай бұрын

Clive, do you have any experience with the temperature controllers used in heat presses (the kind used to stamp T-shirts)? I found two menu options on mine, labelled "PAt" and "Pld" (accessed by holding down the "+" and "-" buttons as the press is turned on). "Pld" can be set to -1, 0, or 1 (no idea what this is). "PAt" can be set to any value between 0 and 60 (probably a timer). There's also a "C-F" menu option that (unsurprisingly) switches between ºC and ºF.

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

I'm not sure. Maybe for sensor calibration. I've just ordered a basic heat press, so may explore the settings.

@RFC3514 5 ай бұрын

I considered that, but it only ranges from -1 to 0 to 1. Seems a very narrow range for calibration. I suppose it's also possible that "Pld" sets the "direction" of the calibration and "PAt" sets the value of that calibration. Which would be a weird way of doing things, as opposed to having a single parameter ranging from -60 to 60. And the fact that the second one goes up to 60 really suggests a timer. It does have other parameters for minimum and maximum temperature, etc., but those are in the "normal" menu. The hidden menu only has those three (PId, C-F and PAt). I did notice an interesting detail; the heating element snakes across the plate and then back again, but has 3 connections (one at each end and one in the middle), which I assume is so they can use the same part for both ~115 and ~230 volts (but it doesn't auto-switch).

@curtwuollet2912 5 ай бұрын

The ones I've used are the REX PID Controllers that use a thermocouple, have a billion parameters and are suspiciously ubiquitous and cheap for a precision process controller. They must be used in tremendous quantities in China as you can get a kit with a thermocouple and a ssr for like $20.

@emaglott 5 ай бұрын

that squishy silicone ripping sound drives me wild!

@YungLasagna 5 ай бұрын

Clive, have you seen the disposable nicotine devices with LCD displays? Very curious.

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

I have one with an LED display.

@dav1dbone 5 ай бұрын

Had to look twice, thought you had a video on the equivalent of a taxi fare meter for ladies of the night😂

@paulwright8378 5 ай бұрын

Is cop Coefficient of Performance,I just googled it

@HotelPapa100 5 ай бұрын

So no adjustment of regulation parameters (PID)? That's what would have been critical in the application I would have for such a device.

@U014B 5 ай бұрын

COP stands for "Configuration Out of Parameters". It's trying to tell you there aren't any more settings to change.

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

It's a mode that saves the current settings as the new factory-reset default. Like a "restore" setting.

@233kosta 5 ай бұрын

I suspect COP is the coefficient of performance of whatever HVAC this is used to control. Pure heaters (resistive/etc) are fairly close to 1, good heat pumps are quite a bit higher. It's effectively a measure of efficiency, except calling it efficiency is bad practice because η>1 is one of those things that normally break thermodynamics.

@233kosta 5 ай бұрын

To clarify, CoP = rate of total heat transfer / power input or Q/P

@thorhammer6040 4 ай бұрын

COP I wonder if that is continuous operation or possibly a way to cool instead of heat? What is the upper button on the set side?

@bigclivedotcom 4 ай бұрын

It turned out that COP was for changing the factory default settings to allow easier recovery from tampering. The fourth button is for other module applications.

@erbterb 5 ай бұрын

"Have you destroyed industrial equipment by clicking random buttons?" No bigclive, I have not. But thanks for warning me about excessive button pressing. My previous girlfriend complained about that in bed.

@JamsODonnell100 5 ай бұрын

I appreciate your great videos. Some of which I can understand! But… I’m baffled- in what world is 14°C a “quite high” indoor temperature????

@SlartiMarvinbartfast 5 ай бұрын

Clive lives in a strange world where temps are concerned, I couldn't manage to live in a house that was 10C.

@JamsODonnell100 5 ай бұрын

@@SlartiMarvinbartfastha ha! Maybe he’s nuclear powered. A brief fiddle with the wires and they went up 4°C! 😊

@bigliftm 5 ай бұрын

i work for a company that repairs vending machines and coolers. problem with these controllers is that the compressor relay gets stuck and the compressor keeps running. This results in exploded soda cans and a big mess in the machine.

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

That's why it makes sense to add an extra thermal safety switch in-line with the compressor as an extra backup.

@jonathantatler 5 ай бұрын

It's always better looking at spare cable than for it!

@teemum.9023 4 ай бұрын

17:40 I don't understand why the capacitor is parallel to - and + rails and provides +5 V to + rail. How it is not serial if it affects what comes after. Paraller it just lets - and + rails go on and handles influences between - and + rails. I am a beginner and I don't understand paraller and serial intuitively. I wouldn't understand if you explained me technically.

@ralphj4012 5 ай бұрын

Great explanation, though confused at one point where I thought you said overtightening monkey-style. I'm now in a quandary as to whether this refers to intoxication or a tougher form of martial arts.

@wdavem 5 ай бұрын

I kinda like that. Some day I'll need to build a film processor, would this stand up in that chemical environment? (obviously I'd have no complaints about having to change the sealant... and maybe put the sensor in a stainless steal tube) Maybe I should use two of them on each tank, for safety? These wouldn't be camera films, rather print film. So it wouldn't ruin one-of a kind camera films if it goes wrong (but mistakes could still be costly) I'd put the alarm piezo in also. It's possible i'd need a thermometer with an extra zero though.

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

I'd recommend mounting the electrics in a sealed plastic case for chemical protection.

@Slikx666 5 ай бұрын

If memory serves me right COP means Citizens On Patrol.... 😐👍

@shanesummerhayes7101 5 ай бұрын

If a change over relay was used, could this control cooling?

@gf88888 5 ай бұрын

what is the diameter of the ntc thermocouple, is it about 2/3 mm (to insert in capillary tube of fridge ?)

@smalcolmbrown 5 ай бұрын

Thanks :)

@lii1Il 5 ай бұрын

Anyone know of a quality relative himidity amd temp controller???? Ty!!!

@SimonPain 5 ай бұрын

Could COP be "Clearance Of Parameters" (or something similar), e.g. a Factory Reset?

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

It may store the current settings as the new factory reset values.

@RickyMcSpanish 5 ай бұрын

You should take a look at the 12v Chinese diesel heaters that are going about. People have been fitting them to conservatories as well as the usual campervans

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

I have a couple here.

@RickyMcSpanish 5 ай бұрын

@@bigclivedotcom Aww that would be brilliant for a wee review

@PubliusHadrianus 5 ай бұрын

that potted transformer is pretty much designed exclusively for 220V AC - i looked up the model YXE1411200192Y. China uses 220V as standard for their grid, but Europe uses 230V - that means the transformer is guaranteed to always run over-volted when imported in Europe and will fail when used for longer time above 240V AC - probably they used the eBay "warranty" / maximum refund window as the time reference for its lifespan, and that is 90 days usually. In areas with solar panels or wind turbines that are injecting energy in the grid that voltage can often rise to 250V and is still considered within the voltage spec tolerances of the European 230V standard (+/- 10%), but can cause a high rate of failure for 220V-only equipment.

@Pentti_Hilkuri 5 ай бұрын

My mains seems to read 237V, that's only 7.7% extra voltage. The transformer should barely notice it.

@PubliusHadrianus 5 ай бұрын

many components made with cheap chinesium electronics are only built for 5% over-voltage tolerances (if at all) and this is why they tend to fail much quicker than other equipment. Sometimes even have labels that boast a ton of certification logos on them but they are obviously fake when you open them up - in this case it's easy to tell the fake: it is impossible to have a genuine "CE" European Union logo marking on a 220V-only part thus the "CE" certification mark is obviously fake.

@humanseagull2744 5 ай бұрын

Office worker plus all teachers 😂😂

@Scotty916 5 ай бұрын

COP could be coefficient of performance?

@BrilliantDesignOnline 5 ай бұрын

COP apparently stands for Coefficient of Performance.

@DrFiero 5 ай бұрын

Throw a scope over data & ground. Wonder if that's an RS485 port?

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

RS485 would normally use a balanced pair. I think it's just a simple slow serial link.

@davey2k12 5 ай бұрын

The temp controller with the 3 displays is way easier to setup but only a PCB worked great for growing plants 😂

@whatilearnttoday5295 5 ай бұрын

There is another interesting one XH-M452. Temp/Humidity up or down.

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

I think I have one of those modules here.

@MrTurboturbine 5 ай бұрын

Whenever I come across any electronic interface with keypad or buttons, I long press random keys to try to find hidden settings or menus.

@toxicpsion 5 ай бұрын

the Data connection by the bridge is probably modbus.

@mattmo989 5 ай бұрын

COP = coefficient of performance for air conditioning?

@michaelturner4457 5 ай бұрын

"Chunky heavy magnetic transformer, unlikely to fail". Unless the thermal fuse blows that is.

@Sonny_McMacsson 5 ай бұрын

Then the fuse is unlikely to blow. If it does, its failure probability is now 100%.

@LeifNelandDk 5 ай бұрын

Pity there wasn't an option to change between cool and heat thermostat. Would make the unit twice as usable. I've made a box for rising bread by switching the leads on the peltier element in a cooling bag and adding a temperature controller.

@redpheonix1000 5 ай бұрын

It really makes no sense why they don't include that option, it's literally able to be done in software. I get that they might want to sell the two versions just so the installers don't have to set that up themselves and to avoid potential confusion, but then again, why not sell the two versions with the only difference being heat or cold mode set as default? Failing that, since this unit has a changeable relay, you could always swap it for a changeover relay (SPDT) and use the Normally Closed contact instead to invert it! Edit: It just occurred to me that doing that would cause whatever device you're controlling to stay on permanently if the relay or controller ever fail. In that case, also add a second relay in series, with it's coil being controlled directly by the power input of the controller. Obviously it's more complicated and not as practical as just having a controller with a proper cooling mode, but it's an option if it's ever needed

@willthecat3861 5 ай бұрын

Why is it called a Y1 transistor? (It's a small signal, switching, and audio transistor?)

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

It's a simple two character code due to the small area for printing. It will be a very standard multi-purpose transistor for general use.

@thorhammer6040 4 ай бұрын

looked it up and not a lot of information on the website.

@p_mouse8676 5 ай бұрын

I was using that exact same controller for our aquarium that died two days ago. The temperature reading is drifting all over the place.

@bigclivedotcom 5 ай бұрын

Check the temperature probe for signs of water ingress or wire cracking. Also make sure the wires are routed away from electronic stuff like LED lights.