It looks like a late 1990s computer speaker case.

I see that flash tester has a "BURN" setting, I'm surprised we haven't seen that in action.

I like the retro 50's look of it. The size is actually very practical. The room inside with vents help to minimize components from overheating and the large meter is pleasing. In this day and age of miniaturization to the point of marginal safety and utilty it's nice to see something that would not get lost beneath a postage stamp. A little judicious tweaking makes it perfectly functional. A bit of QC at the sweatshop would have been preferable but otherwisw I'd give it a crooked thumbs up.

I envy your ability to draw an accurate schematic from just looking at a printed circuit board.

Still waiting for the day that little fan kicks on.

This is cool, I am glad we have guys like you on this platform who give so much information. Keep up the good work!

Even though I don't understand anything about electrical work, I find Clive's voice soothing. Plus he takes shit apart and I like that.

Oddly enough, I had the "muh-na-muh-na" Muppet song in my head for weeks. Just got rid of it when YOU set it off again!!....bugger!

The "Muppet" song came from an Italian soft porn film. www.slate.com/articles/arts/culturebox/2011/11/_mahna_mahna_how_a_ditty_from_a_soft_core_italian_movie_became_the_muppets_catchiest_tune_.html

CE means Caveat Emptor :)

Seems like a nice case... just awaiting the transplant of a better power supply circuit.

You are quite forgiving when it comes to the intentions of the manufacturing. Great video!

3:48 "But I dont have banana to banana" That actually surprises me :D

Replace the 5v board with the one from your switched power socket.It seemed to be a better design (and you were very impressed with it.

A "classic" from 2018. Very COoL. Thank you.

Thanks Clive :) I find your hacks, & repairs more interesting than your more common power supply circuit traces and look forward to more content like this. Have you ever tried keyboard bending?

Well I had to watch this one once again.. WHY? Well I tired of the political fight that we in the USA are now engaged, following the bloody Saturday that ended last week with so many dead or wounded. Nice to relax to the sound of Big Clive, and talking about my favorite 5 Volt Power supply. Having used it now on at least a weekly basis, I can testify that she is a great little power box! I love the needle for a quick view of the amp draw, never though about how nice that would be till I have it. I have a set of crock clips plugged into her all the time, they hang from my fan remote that is attached to the side of my old desktop PC desk that now serves as a sort of work shelf next to my old electric recliner where I spend my days trying to count out the hours upon hours that I still have in this wicked world. Over the past couple of months I have built several rather good variable power supplies, some with fixed output banana plugs, others with variable voltage and one nice little unit with both amp and volt variable, yet when it comes to 5 volts, I always reach for this little guy. Could be because it rests right at my elbow while I have to plug in the other, or may be not.

I love this little PSU. I give it a big thumbs up. I added a Pot to con3 like you did and tweaked it good. I however wasn't surprised by the lower than 5V because on the ebay listing I got it from it said: Output Voltage: 5V -6% (that's 4.7V). Still unsure as to why they did that though. Anyway, I put it under load with 2A and zero resistance and tweaked it to 5V. Now without load it's reading 5.21V. What I'm doing now calls on another BCDC thing...I've installed 3 nokia Lithium batteries and hooked my 12V solar panel to it. Switch between power sources. Love this little box.

OHH BANANA!!! Would also be interesting to see how much noise these psus produce versus load using an oscilloscope. Keep up the good stuff! Cheers!

I rarely tinker with electronics but I really enjoy watching these videos

Hi Clive. I used to work in Argos 0475, restocking the shelves. One Christmas I made a CD which had 26 tracks on it, unfortunately it was only the Muppet music. The stockroom manager kept playing it over and over until the Muppets (staff) did something useful. I'm just glad I worked nights, but we still played it for over 6 hours Mon stop.

Yeah, that's the sort of wire stripper I've always liked because the action seems nicer to me and more controlled than the common labeled entry type.

It's just lovely that the warranty seal on the insulation tester is already broken :D

bet the 1A is the rating of the supply fuse :)

"I Think I'll Give This The Thumbs Down ..... " - Right, well that's it then, innit. 14:55 "I'm Not Giving Up That Easily .... " - And another bit. I'm glad you were able to rehabilitate this supply. It did seem to be worth the effort.

Addictive channel 😊🙏 Thanks Clive!

Hi Clive! Nice video and that Motorola Charger a have the exactly same for my Motorola Nexus 6 with a european 2 plug on it.

Seems like an interesting little device regardless of what you had to do to it.

Interesting the back label says it's rated at 1 amp but then the spec for the usb port is 2 amp. After watching this I'd say the 1 amp label would be the safer option to go by. Thanks for the fix because the unit looks interesting.

Lucky for me, Clive, I _like_ that song!

The 1A rating on the back appears to be for the fuse after buying one of these for myself. The mains fuse is 1A, you will note the fuse symbol adjacent to "RATED CURRENT 1A" on the label. The fuse is a fast blow 1A. The supply easily delivers 2A output

I got an Aneng AN8008 multimeter a while back as I wanted a cheap second meter, I chose that one as it comes with a big bundle of lead ends including banana to banana, screw terminals etc... They seem to get reasonably good reviews from the likes of EEVBlog considering the price.

"It's tolerable". And it's cute as hell! :-) I love the analog meters. (Yes; I'm Old!) I am glad you were able to tweak it.

That voltage drop isn't bad at all. Fixing the 5v reference would make this thing quite useful :P (5.1v with no load would be ideal, imo)

I thought CE meant Cheap Electronic!

Thanks for that song Clive. Yup, going to have that in my head now! I would like to see some more power supply reviews and 'flash over' testing on the cheaper supplies. Have not seen a supply fail this test yet from you or have I missed a video? I love power supplies, only because like you, I hate surface mount components! Generally big chunky power supplies have both but probably 75% through hole components so can be 'easier' to troubleshoot and even mod to your liking. I have server power supplies which are built like brick s**t houses so may review one soon!

A friend of mine recently worked in Manama for a time. Yes, Manama. No, my brain wouldn't stop doing it either!

I'm tempted to buy this Yeeeeehaw! PSU for digital projects, should be adequate for simple stuff.

Love your videos! I learn alot! It would be interesting if you took these crap products and switched out components to make them work they way they are advertised!!!!!!

Just when im revisiting the video: could you measure the coupling voltage to earth while you're measuring the current ? i somehow get the feeling, that the voltage wont be the 90V anymore at that load...

Never heard caveat emptor realted to CE before, i bursted out in laughter! :D Thanks for that one

I'd say a worthwhile endeavour would be probing various bits & bobs on these circuits with a good old fashioned oscilloscope. The switching on that optoisolator for example ought to show up rather nicely. That and output ripple, though I don't know how much modern day electronics care about input power ripple - you're in a better position to make that judgement. Also it would allow for some interesting comparisons between "proper" OEM power adaptors and the poundland specials (especially the good ones!)... I mean they *say* it's DC, but... That said, there's only so much the scope can pick up, so some sneaky really high frequency switching noise might make it through undetected :/

Is this a standard use for an opto-isolator? I thought they wouldn't be able to pass a load like this, or is it just the LED part that would be more sensitive to overloading?

Between the dedicated chip from Power Integrations on one hand, and the opto-feedback on the other hand, that looks indeed like a half-decent little unit. As opposed to, say, some bottom-of-the-barrel two-transistor oscillator with aux-winding feedback... Maybe with an electrolytic "critical cap", which upon failure, makes the secondary voltage go sky-high...

Love your videos!! Very informative. Thank you!

Clive, I suspect the 3mA on the Opto LED might not be enough to drive the phototransistor into saturation, causing significant dissipation in it. Or maybe the IR from the LED leaking and messing with the FLIR ? try taping a bit of AL-foil to the opto to block IR w/ some black tape on top and FLIR it again to see if it's really that hot?

This is pretty usefull for repairing phones, you can tell if there's a short on the charging circuit or fault in the CPU by seeing the amperage

Oh, that volt count ONE THOUSAND VOLTS FIFTEEN HUNDRED VOLTS TWO THOUSAND VOLTS I miss PhotonicInduction videos so much. YOU MADE ME REMEMBER IT AGAIN, CLIVE!

I've had lots of issues with the floating AC aspect of USB power units. I have some power strips with USB and there's always that 90 volts AC to ground at a few microamps. I found when I was charging my phone the touchscreen was erratic. Not surprised really. So I have reversed engineered them all. Dismantled and soldered a wire from the USB socket housing to the mains earth bar of the power strip and had no more problems since.

Could you teardown a lightning splitter for the newer iPhones? I’d love to know how they work

I'm pleased to see you were paying attention during your Latin classes.

Do doo, duh doo doo, duh doo doo, duh doo doo doo duh doo........ Bananana...

Well here it is, 2021, the world has changed, the age old question "who was that masked man" has taken on a much different meaning. Following this video, I purchased that power supply, added that resistor and it has been my primary 5 volt power supply when I just have to have over 1.2 amps power. It does a wonderful job, runs all my little single board computer for testing and setup with operating system, it has never given me an ounce of trouble even though I have a set of LED'S hooked up to the screw terminals to light up the shelf where it lives. When ever I need the light, or need the power 5 old LEDs mounted on a strip recovered from an old LED flat screen TV that ended it's life when the damn cats started fighting behind it and actually knocked the blasted thing on the floor shattering the screen. At least the led's are serving some purpose. Cats still run the damn house too, the penalty I have for inviting my daughter to come live with me following the death of my lovely wife of 51 years. She cooks and cleans for me, and insures I don't go off the deep end so I guess the cats are worth it, plus the cats have long since settled down and become my friends and nightly companions sleeping in the bed to keep me a bit warmer in the cold Dakota nights.

The flir printouts look top notch !

Yep. Singing Banananam in my head now. Thanks Clive!! :)

4:50 it's called "hiccup mode", and is a short-circuit protection mechanism.

What does the "burn" mode on that Metrohm high voltage tester mean? Will we get to see flames? :)

Bana nana!! Thanks Clive.

3:40 didn't expect this man to start singing - but there you go

I think that the voltage being set to approx. 4.6V is a symptom of the feedback issue. IE set the voltage to 4.6V and the voltage on the output of the feedback winding will be approx. 10% lower than if the output was set to 5V. V=IR so P=IIR and reducing current by 10% (assuming the feedback in the chip is a resistive input which they usually are) will reduce the power dissipation by 19% approx. Set the output voltage to 5V and things will get really hot.

Yihua 502D USB bench power supply 5V 2A PSU Clive used 47k ohm I went with a 56k ohm 1% This gives: 5.21V with no load, ripple 4.4mV, 5.12V at 1A, ripple 63mV, 5.05V at 2A, ripple 84mV. I then added 470uF 16V and 100nF ceramic capacitors in parallel on the front panel PCB connecting these extra capacitors across the PCB tracks near the output terminals. This lowered the ripple voltage, now I get: 5.21V with no load, ripple 1.8mV, 5.12V at 1A, ripple 22mV, 5.05V at 2A, ripple 31mV. Mark

Yeah thanx ... for that earworm of a song in my head ... looks like another late night for me :)

And to avoid using the death-dapter you'd have to replace the lead. It might be nice to replace the insides with a decent phone charger and make a Frankenstein's monster power supply with a neat readout. Depends on the amount of hassle and price of the unit Edit: it's about $20. With that in mind it's suddenly a much tougher sell.

What is your opinion of those TS100 portable soldering irons running ~70 USD on Amazon?

Clive! Who makes your testers? Where can we buy them?

I got one of these unit awhile back, and found that the output seems to be live at half the mains voltage. (Thailand uses 220V@50Hz) So I just took out the power supply board and replace it with DC buck regulator, so I can power it off an "known good" DC supply. Since then, its very useful for testing cables and 5V powered devices

@Clive - With the panel meter going to 2 A full scale, I would have interpreted "rated current: 1 A" as the *maximum inrush* current _at 220 volts._ I was surprised you did not measure Power Factor, which might have some bearing on maximum inrush current from Mains.

Wonder if you could modify it to have the vsense somewhere on the front panel board. That ammeter is probably indroducing a decent amount of resistance at high load like 2 amp which is why even with 5.25V@0A it was still down under 5V just before cutoff. Would be easy to check though; see what the vltage is at the board before it goes over through the ammeter to the front panel.

Never seen chip markings on your channel this bright

I have had many cars in the shop with the digital displays having a wave or pulse. Go check the alternator and it’s putting out some AC voltage. The bridge rectifier is going bad and time for a replacement alternator. Usually it’s been to other places and they couldn’t figure out what was wrong. So anytime I see a display do that I see if it’s putting out AC.

Quite a neat little unit. Might have to get one. What video eding software do you use on your phone? Kind of want the recording and editing device to be self-contained for my KZfaq stuff.

Makes one wonder; could that connection be for an upgraded unit with a variable resistor so you could set the voltage, perhaps with a second meter to show the voltage out? Makes perfectly good sense to me, perhaps install a variable resistor and one of those sweet little digital volt meter that china sells for a buck two fifty?

I wonder if the delux model had a pot to adjust the O/P voltage

Too bad you can't double like stuff. Very interesting to watch some of these a few times. Thank you.

There are some similarities between that circuit board and the USB power circuit from the British General USB wall socket in the previous video. The other one is smaller but I would think it would be a better option if it could be mounted inside the box.

That's a very stylish power supply. It'd be neat if you could make an adjustable supply out of it for light duty stuff.

If I saw and heard OK, the mod on CON3 is 47 kilo Ohm resistor?

At the beginning where u measure the voltage with respect to Earth, I've got a Roth make DAB radio with a similar phenomenon, if u connect a meter between earth and the radio's telescopic aerial, there is a reading of about 72 volts at 47 microamps, and if you touch the aerial while touching something that is earthed, can sometimes feel a very slight tingle!

DAMMIT CLIVE! Now I have that Muppet song stuck in my head!

So much hardware that they actually tried to make it safe!

Well making it a lab power supply would be nice project, adding potentiometer, (maybe some sort of current source).

What about a resistor in series with the opto? Wouldn't that stop it from getting so hot?

oh bugger off clive! I'm gonna have that stuck in my head for a while now!

the muppet tune gets triggered in my brainbox when i hear the word phenomenon

Handy little case ditch the guts and PCB replace it with a nice little BangGood module.

I want to hear some "hysterical SCREAMING" lol Love ur video's ! Keep em coming !

Good video, cheers. In your experience Clive, which bench power supply do you use or recommend?

Clive, Caveat Emptor won the day XD! Brilliant and... unfortunately so true..

Rated 1A at 240VRMS, no? Should the 2A 5VDC output not require significantly less current from the mains? I'd have thought on the order of a few hundred mA?

I forgot to mention, the one that I have was modified with the Big Clive "FIX" To drain off any excess, I have it wired to a set of LED'S that belong behind a LED type TV set, some outfit had them cheap, and I picked up a handful. They light up my shelf nicely when I turn on the little PS, barely moves the needle on the amp-meter but i think it sort of buffers the voltage a bit, there are six LED'S on the strip that light up brightly when I turn the unit on, bright enough to make the wife complain from her chair across the room from mine. Of course it doesn't take much any more to cause her to complain, what after living as my wife for over 50 years now.

You commented that they fused the neutral, with a 2 pin razor type plug how can you tell which one is which without taking it apart and metering it? in America as you probably know regular 2 pin plugs have different size pins j/s so if you have a 2 pin razor type plug you have a 50/50 chance of fusing the line.

Hhmmm! Fused neutral on a cable with a two pin plug that can be inserted either way round. Better than no fuse at all I suppose.

3:46 When was the first time hearing that melody? Late summer 1967±? on The Red Skelton Show during a _Moon Man skit._

Damn Clive I do have the song stuck in my head

could the opto drive a transistor how much of a workaround would it take?

0:54 - Caveat emptor? I thought "CE" stood for "Chinese Electronics." LOL Still, a neat little device, after you fixed it.

Probably a nice solid 5.1v before the output diode. Replace it with a Schottkey, and it would be fine.

Where does the coupling occur? I thought the transformer would provide isolation. Edit: oh through the control pin of the chip?

its worth buying this for that rather nice ammeter

Finished my upgrade on this unit by pulling off that strange plug and putting a standard US plug on, also wired 2 LED's that light up the shelf she sits on when she is engaged this drops the output to right at 5 volts at 1 amp.