This isn't a out this video, but could you recommend a stand alone, plug in your wall, home theater subwoofer amp, as mine just died, but would have to spend over $1000 to get an equal sub now days. I'm looking in the 4-500 watts rms range. Either a plate amp or anything else

@@derekborow4121 I tested a couple from Parts Express in this video - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gtmRi7R7xJuXgmQ.html

@@walyou need to do dynos on all POWERUS IS THE BEST AMP EVER MADE PERIOD…. But its expensive too

Crazy I know

@@wal Ten years from now, you'll be able to have a sub amp with just an app. LOL

​@@ksavage681🤣🤣🤣

...me too....I am always disappointed to see these 3500 watt amps....for a car interior...feels a bit excessive. I love Big D , but this is of no interest

Absolutely!!!

Thanks man! I’ll link your vid in the description and pinned comment (for the 5kW version) 👌

I really like the finish on this amp Bid D. Also really liked both tests given by you and Steve. You're both the only guys I truly trust in these amp dyno's. Great review!!

MY jp3 has turn off thump! Wish bigd tested this!

same here bro.. because of Big D, i am back on the audio scene.. This time as a grown up, way more money to play with, and a lot more brains, I did everything right and got good equipment, and my sound is amazing . Thanks Big D !!!!!!!!!!!!

You upgrade the batteries to Lifepo4 yet or similar?

350

Ayeee, that’s my line 🤣

Hmmm🤔

Gotta love chineesium

Exactly Ds18 better start paying attention to the comments 😂

Big dummy math for the win!!!

Leave it to the Chinese to write up the manuals/specs.

I don't trust them if they can't even spell

That amp in the future maybe will become collectors item!

@@RealPivotTV Most Americans can't spell either, so... Lol

@@JasonWW2000 idk about most but I’m willing to bet if you were putting out a product like an amplifier you would spell minimum right? Lol

It's not a D4S amp, it's a DS18 amp........

@@bobbyackerson4125 my bad.

Don’t ever apologize for being an old school bass head! I’ve been a bass head for 31 years now…… and still going strong!!!

I would like to try the 5k If it gets too hot on bass it wouldn't hurt to run my front doors with this hp at 90 hz I bet this series can make u feel the vocals through your chest

@@NerdyBassHead Yes front door is often overlooked, it adds a LOT of tight, snappy sound to bass string plucks and kick drums that you feel on stage.

Works the same way a battery tester works. Just a load bank of resistors with different relays to switch Ohm loads and sensors to read voltage, resistance, and amperage. Volts(ac)=sqrt(watt×ohm) and other ohms law formulas

As I’ve measured I believe the DC Audio 3.5k and Crescendo BC3500’s measured the highest but the Fluke wireless clamp isn’t exact science in these tests. The new KICKER Warhorse 3600 got over 82% efficient at 1 ohm which is right up there also

I'm not sure why efficiency is so important to you, but if that's what you're looking for try to get a large amplifier that can run at a higher ohm load like 4 Ohm or maybe two. That's where they are most efficient. As the amplifier goes down in impedance the efficiency also drops. You would be much better served looking for efficiency in your sub enclosure then in the amplifier.

We can thank the modern semiconductor for this.

Just extra video I guess.

@@JasonWW2000 dont get me wrong. Big fan of the channel. Only reason im confused is, the end of the clips is where he normally pushes the hardware beyond specs. Thats my favorite part. :-)

He's not an electrical engineer or an amp designer. He's just a fan of audio equipment like most of us.

@@JasonWW2000 Yeah no shit, but he's always got cons, so if he designed the amp by saying "change this to this, to an engineer, then it would be a damn near perfect amp. I tend to agree with him on 99% of the pros and cons. I didn't mean design it from a blank board up. Guess I should have said OVERSEE the design of an amp.

Wow they don’t provide those specs on the site? That’s shady.

2X or 3X is fine as long as you know how to control the power and not burn up your subs. I usually run three times the rated power, but I'm not a bass head so I don't really push my stuff to the Limit. If you're the kind of person that wants to squeeze out every bit of performance from whatever amplifier you have, you just need to find out what your real ohm load is and then match it up appropriately. Of course, when you're constantly maxing out your equipment you shouldn't expect it to last forever.

Impedance is resistance, but at a specific frequency (or band of frequencies). The advertised impedance is often an average of a band of frequencies the speaker is expected to operate at. (Some unsavory speaker manufacturers might also cherry-pick the advertised impedance from idealized test results.) You'll need a specification sheet that shows the impedance curve, which will give you a graph of rated impedance vs. frequency. This will help you specify the amplifier to match that speaker up to. So, as a practical example: looking at the impedance curve, we learn our example woofer might have an impedance of 2 ohms at 40 Hz, but 6 ohms at 200 Hz. If this woofer is meant to be used as a subwoofer, and it won't ever see the 200 Hz frequency band, make your amplifier calculations assuming 2 ohms impedance. On the other hand, if this is a standard woofer to play musical bass frequencies, rather than shake the Earth, that woofer most likely _will_ see 200 Hz, but not 40 Hz. Calculate instead assuming 6 ohms impedance. Don't forget: the cabinet the speaker goes in will also have a profound impact on the efficiency of the speaker. Especially for subwoofers, watch for the tuned frequency of the cabinet. For my part, as a live & architectural sound engineer with 20+ years' experience, clipping will be your worst enemy where blowing speakers is concerned. I've seen drivers take 10x their rated power as a momentary transient (think "pop" or "pow") and survive without issue. But, if you drive a 40 Hz square wave into a subwoofer, even at less than rated power, you are likely to blow that woofer. When I put a system together, I usually target amplifiers that are 1.2x to 2x the rated power of the speakers in question, mostly to make sure I never hit clipping when I operate the drivers near their limit. (I will turn the amp down to meet the speaker's rated output.) This is probably _NOT_ a way to win SPL contests if that's what you're into. But, if you want reliability, no system I've designed/rigged/installed has blown a speaker in the time I've been doing this. Generally, since you're not pushing the amp all that hard, you'll get better fidelity and noise floor, too.

@@McTroyd Thanks for sharing the insight! Makes a lot of sense.

The fact that he didn't test it probably indicates that the manufacturer warned him not to. I would rate it safe for an actual one ohm load, but no lower than that.

I asked the same question. Apparently it was caught after the first run of production and wasn’t in the pre-production units.

QC wrote it!

QC is inventing core English

No, this is completely different.

All of my local audio shops refuse to carry them . They say that if you love distortion then DS18 is the brand for you .

Typically they are all wired the same. Depending on type of plug.. might be one or two brands that mix the wiring up.

@@bobdodge3171 whoa whoa whoa. Don't be giving out misinformation. Just about every brand of amplifier I've seen has a different wiring for their bass knob. If you're foolish enough to try and mix and match different brands you can expect to burn up your amplifier.

It made 3500, which is what it was rated at. You might be looking at the wrong specifications.

You're talking about the company that owns Orion building a particular model of amp in the US? It seems very unlikely. What would be the advantage in that and would it be enough to compensate for the huge increase in price?