thanks , what a swell. that blacks video was legit

Blacks blows Swamis outta the water. No contest. 🤙🏼

Thanks for the kind words!

It’s ok :) elephants out of the bag, I’ll simmer on the click bait on the next one :)

It was bigger today. 😬

Thanks, there was so much energy in person , the cliff was packed!!

It rarely stands up.

thats a really good point. its tough becuase the big boards can take off so far outside.

It’s true. The backwash was hella wonky out there too

the wave will change completely depending on size and tide. With the right conditions (a few feet overhead to 2x overhead) it's as good a performance wave as any with barrels and a lot of power when it hits the reef right. When it's too big, it gets mushy but its one of the only places around that holds big swells which is why it gets so crowded. There's a reason there are so many people out there when it's good. It's one of the best waves in Cali.

The wave is getting worse and worse . When I was a kid the reef looked totally different and now backwash has come full circle . Matter of time before holes start forming in the reef and it will only have sections of greatness edit: for clarifications for non locals it was the big dredge in the 90s that led to the deterioration at such an accelerated rate

The crowd went exponential!!!!!

What do the paddle out look like that day! Guys in the morning had to put in some work to get out, but it mellowed allot as the day went.

@@Ridersoftubes For real it was so foggy you couldn't see the waves, but you could hear them. I started padding through the channel and I go damn lucky. I coult tell a lot of water was moving around, there was tons of tree debris and stuff that came in all the way from Escondido as it was the 1st El Nino. I just kept padding and suddenly I am in the kelp beds and here some voices at the main peak. So I head north and there is Larry Colby and Brad Gerlach on their 5'10" Nectars I ask how big, they said dude, we dont know but we got cleaned up BAD. So we came way out here. No lie in 15 minutes the wind turned offshore and HOLY SHIT! I am on a 6'2" Bertelman twing fin and we are freaking out. I got one inbetweener, heaed towards Pipes and made it half way through Dabbers. Went in, the whole town on the bluff acted like it was no thang, smoked some weed and let every validate, ya dude, he was out there lol. I was terrified. Dale Dobson and GT go out there and make it look like 6' South Swell D Street.It was nuts.

@@seeuateoneto4586 that’s epiC! Thanks for sharing

for sure!

From what I’ve gathered over time, It seems the standard rule of thumb is that any wave breaking outside the state of Hawaii is “6-8’ max” 😂 But I do agree with your assessment of what we’re looking at.

Some guys catch lots of waves regardless of crowd at both spots. Is really knowing how to get position and being assertive at right time. Often will be like 8 guys paddling for same wave all around you so have to get used to that and not get distracted

It was crazy, crowd was light in morning, this from after 10-12 when I was watching just tripped at how packed it got. I would say close to 200 at 12pm. So crowded 10 guys are paddling over a wave. It was pretty darn good there was some excellent surfing.

That’s very good advice.

@@GuitarWithBrett totally agree. Having grown up and surfed SoCal my whole life I 100% get it and what it takes to surf - and catch waves - in our unfortunate crowds. It’s a constant motion and jockeying thru the lineup, which is all fine and good. But I’ve also suffered a lifelong, degenerative aversion to mass hordes of people. I’ve never been able to do concerts, fairs, NFL/MLB/NBA games etc. Hell, I find it difficult to put up with regular busy hours at the grocery market. Too many adult-learner types oblivious to their surroundings. Surfing in SoCal you have to put up with crowds and adapt, be aggressive, and have etiquette to be successful. But, if me or my friends pull up to pumping Swami’s/Lowers/Wherever and it’s already a total “scene” like this, all asses to elbow, we’re out. Plenty of other waves in our area that don’t have 25+ guys all jockeying for the same wave.

Thats sick, I used to go there in the early 80's and thats when localism was real. They knew I was from Encinitas but once they know I know the educate and could surf I never had an issue. MAC MEDA was real.

Thanks for the story!! Do you know if that was around the same time he surfed zeros?

George’s was very big it was really hitting there!!

@@Ridersoftubes sick!

How was the paddle out?

@@Ridersoftubes stayed way left out of the break.

Yup 2007 was massive and much cleaner with straight offshore winds. I ended up at Boneyards and got wworked.

Yup, not even close.

Had to hype it a bit to get it picked up by the algorithm:) thanks for posting, it will be interesting to see what this weekend brings

Nice profile pic! Much respect to all the surfers but it is nice to see someone lighting it up!!

I won’t hype the next one so hard :)

Thanks for the watch, I can do that :)