Thanks for the reply. I'm going to try and take a look at both of these scenarios if/when I do a follow-up video.

DodgeDeBoulet Does E3 mini support the stock dwin screen?

@@yufan I believe the TFT port on the SKR E3 Mini can be wired up to the DWIN screen (I wired up the SKR V1.4 Turbo "TFT" port to the DWIN screen of my Creality CR-10S Pro with no problems. It was just a matter of finding the pin-out for the DWIN screen and connecting the RX of the screen to the TX of the board and the TX to the RX of the board, plus power and ground connected per normal (5v to 5v, ground to ground). I found the names of the pins on the DWIN board but they were obscured by the connector. Then I found this picture and shared it in imgur for everyone else: So, I don't have the E3 mini board, but the TFT port appears to be the exact same. In the Tiny Machines 3d Marlin 2.0 Firmware, I have to enable the Force10SProDisplay flag. I use build flags at compile time in the PlatformIO extension of MS Visual Code.... so that flag I add is -DForce10SProDisplay along with all the other -D flag that I enable to configure the printer at compile time. Here are some links that may help you: imgur.com/gallery/rcrRf0u imgur.com/kanEegg

Thank you and good luck!

Just did the same actually

Agree! I have an Ender 5 Plus and the SKR 1.4 Turbo board. Had issues and restored eeprom when I should not have and had to use his repository to get the 2.09 release installed again! Thanks so much!

I'm glad you enjoyed it! Please let me know how your install goes!

Thanks for watching and the support! Let me know how that printer works out for you when you get it.The community support for my channel has been terrific!

Thank you for the feedback Tom! Keep an eye on those stepper motors. Some people have had overheating issues with this board.

Thank you for stopping by and leaving a comment! I hope you have a great time with your new hobby.

Good luck with the install! I hope this is an easy process for you.

@@kerseyfabs OH! YES, for the moment, I will try a while (now I am with many things at once) the silent Creality, I will learn the Vref that work best for me, to be able to make a good comparison, (the display adapter I already printed it, it is very Nice, on the other hand smoke comes out of my head trying to configure Marlin for Ender 3 with SKR 1.3 (indifferent for one or the other TMCs 2208/9) Thank you very much for your help, starting from 0 is difficult, I have learned a lot, with a lot of frustration: -)) I see that I need more and more to learn, I imagine that like many people who did not know what an Arduino is :-)). (32bits VSCode, what is that? hahaha Let me ask you a question, is the use of the USB and SD display sufficient? later, for communication with the distant PC, with Ponterface .... etc. send G-codes , install the on-board wi-fi module, with a discreet antenna. Very TY!

We all started from scratch at some point, some are just further down the path. I think you're asking can you just use the USB and SD on the display. That should be sufficient for printing but you won't be able to flash the firmware without access to the board's SD slot. As you mentioned, you also won't be able to communicate with the printer directly without the onboard USB.

@@kerseyfabs YES! Once the .bin firmware is installed on the microSD .CUR (sorry for the translations). Exactly! I don't have a powerful enough notebook. By adding the WIFI module to the SKR, just like USB, you can communicate with the PC, with the software, Ponterface or Repetier Host Repetier Server, without the need for a Rasperi Pi? Thank you very much for answering!

What a terrific idea! Thanks Cylvre! I'm glad you're enjoying your printer.

Hi, thank you! Have you done this with the SKR 2? Will the Firmware for the 1.4 work with the 2?

@@mrsnak6119 Yes I have the two. Sorry for the delay on this I dont know if you are still working on it but I can help if you send me a message.

Have fun! I hope everything goes together well!

Happy birthday! Thank you for the kind words. Here's a link to an Amazon Ender 5 Plus (in stock): amzn.to/3eGlBaV I have not ordered from them myself but the company has a good reputation.

You're a youngster! I just had my 69th. Another suggestion, besides Kris, there are a lot of good channels and check out Thingiverse for Ender 5 and 5 Plus things

Thanks for the comment and for the info on the latest printers. I'm glad these are working so well for you! I think you'll be happy with the ExoSlide.

@@kerseyfabs Thank you for exposing that to the community. I was going to go linear rail but I'm happy to support small 3D printing businesses.

Hi Intrepid,(Or Kris), I have a E5Plus as well with the orange/brown/red wires for the BL Touch. I'm installing my SKR 1.4T right now. Could you tell me the proper orientation for the servo plug with these colors. I'm not sure what the colors signify and I don't want to plug the BL Touch in in-correctly.

Thanks man! Coming soon! I'll have a comparison of the silent board, SKR mini E3 V2.0, and the SKR V1.4 Turbo all in the next video.

Thank you so much Samer!

Thanks! I really appreciate your comments. Tripod (John) does a great job of presenting his work.

@@kerseyfabs Without people like yourself and too many others to name. A lot of us would be lost in this big wild world of 3d printing myself included. Thank you Kris

Yes, follow Tripod, Jim (Edge of tech), and Chris's Basement, all great guys

I appreciate the feedback! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

Hi @@kerseyfabs I wanted to tune my PID and notice that the PID tuning for the Bed was not set in the prebuilt firmware you prepared in the video description. So I manage to compile mine based on your github source. I just modified the driver values from 2208 to 2209 for X, Y, Z and E in the configuration.h. However when I load this firmware, i got an error when heating the bed: heater failed heater_id. I set 60°C for bet temp, the bed temp reached 52°C and then error pops up. Do you modified other params in your source files compared to your 2209 prebuilt (generated on the 3rf of Dec 2020)? Maybe you set another custom bed resistance or something? (FYI, the issue disappears as soon as I reload your prebuilt firmware, but can't set the print bed PI). Thanks a lot !

EDIT: I solved my issue. it seems that the PID values from your code were too far to mine. So when the Temp enters the PID zone (10°C around target) it failed. What I did was to have the temp to reach 50°C, then launching the PID autotune command for 60°. Now I got the right PID values, I can reach the target temp without issue.

@@Mattbe72 Awesome! Glad you were able to work through it.

I hope they go well for you! Happy mods!

@@kerseyfabs The exoslide went well enough apart from a couple of issues/ The SKR 1.4 turbo and TFT 35 E3 V3.0 however im having issues, No Printer Attached and i cant seem to update the firmware. I put the firmware on the card, go to print and it just says loading...... nothing ever happens after that. Any assistance would be great, Thanks

Thanks! Good luck with your printer and your upgrades.

We were all noobs once, so keep printing and keep learning! Thanks for watching!

I still read your comment. All day I wonder why I can't bl-touch I check the cables, everything is fine, I'm looking for a mistake where I can .. I watch that I do it exactly according to the video, I check the connections according to the diagrams on the Internet, and finally after reading your comment I find out that Chinese turned a black and white wire for European printers .. I almost had a heart attack .. Fortunately, it finally works ... And I must highly commend Kersey for his dedication and time-consuming work to a community that is scattered around the world.

@@1vyrobca Happy the comment helped! When I encountered the issue it frustrated the heck out of me. Happy printing!

I had the brown, red, yellow. The black and white were correct, but brown and red needed swapped.

That's awesome! Congrats!

Thank you for the terrific feedback David!

Don't assume that the E3 mini is the inferior choice yet. Stay tuned! Thanks!

Awesome! I'm glad you found the fix!

That's terrific! Just be careful when looking for quiet fans. Many people think any fan can do the job and quite often install underpowered solutions. This will result in clogs from heat creep and insufficient part cooling.

Thanks so much!

I'm glad you got it up and running! That BMG extruder is nice!

Why would you add an inductive sensor, I does come with BLT doesn't it?

This sounds really interesting and it's the first I've heard of it. First, I don't believe it's related to the power supply. After all, I have two Ender 5 Plus printers now and they both began with the cheap 500W supply, stock mainboard, and stock display. Neither of them have seen this issue at all. So, is it an issue specific wot the SKR boards? If so, which one(s)? Does it only happen when the bed is heating? More information is needed. Thanks!

@@kerseyfabs ah my bad. User error. I needed to swap the Red and Brown servo bltouch pins. The TFT works fine. (see my last comment about being a noob.. ) Ultimately, I have to replace my board because right out of the package, the board SD slot will not read any SD card - it does light up when a card is inserted, so I can't flash the firmware from what's on the board to your new z align version.. and I can't flash via octopi because it needs the SD on the board accessible.

Thanks for the info. I've been sharing this information as people have asked. I've also created a pinned post with my image and your comment.

I appreciate it!

If that works, great! I wasn't sure it would still have good connectivity on the other pins. If I need to replace it, I would just solder a new header on.

Chris/Justin .......So how did you get to auxiliary leveling I can't seem to find that in the Marlin menu. I am using TMC2208 steppers. Auto leveling sort of works but I have to try and correct it with Z level offset.The one think I liked about the stock board was the paper trick to level. My stock board decided to do a thermal runaway and I am getting a new board from Creality but its going to take something like 3 weeks so I thought this would be a good time to upgrade to the SKR V1.4 Turbo board. Everything else is stock so I would like to get this working good before I do anymore upgrades....Thanks. Ohh I forgot to mention I am running both z steppers with the one driver.

Given the fact that the pins are actually hard-wired to certain power or ground lines, I don't see how that's possible. Do you have a link?

In the z endstop port, you (we) are just swapping the wires so the correct one can go to the z endstop ground and the probe pin goes to pin 1_27. If you don't swap them and put them in the probe port on the board, the ground pin goes to ground and the probe pin goes to pin 0_10 as per the board diagram. In Marlin, in the pins_BTT_SKR_V1_4.h, it's already defined as: // // Z Probe (when not Z_MIN_PIN) // # ifndef Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN # define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN P0_10 # endif All that has to be done in configuration.h is to comment the '# define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN 'line and uncomment the '# define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING 'line. there's one more line below that: '# define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 32 // Pin 32 is the RAMPS default' , but you should not need to uncomment and change that one because that # ifndef Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN segment above in the pins_BTT_SKR_V1_4.h handles that. The only reason I ran into this was because I was monkeying around with Klipper and couldn't figure out why the servo stuff worked but the probe wouldn't stop the bed raising when i assigned sensor_pin: ^P0.10 in the [bl touch] section. Had to quick power off the machine to stop the nozzle from crashing. Then i opened up the machine, swapped the pins in the connector, and used the probe port and it worked fine.

Will do! It's pretty stock Cura: Start: M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate G28 ;Home M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height G90 ;Absolute positioning G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X5.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X5.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X5.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X5.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up End: G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positioning G1 X0 Y0 ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

No problem. 👍 I forgot to add you a card there also. Done!

Kersey Fabrications - Thanks 👍

Hey Tripod! I just watched video and was scrolling through the comments. Didn’t know you watched Kris’s videos as well.

@@Firstleaker Hey there! Yes, I watch other channels. It is always nice to support others.

@@TripodsGarage - Hey Tripod, I have been out for a while and missed some of my replies. This is great that everyone follows each other. However, I am not a fan when someone deletes my comments asking to give credit to someone’s prior work!

I'm glad to hear it! The BLtouch is the thing that caused this printer the most issues. It's a fantastic bed leveler but it's a bit too finicky and the wire colors seem not to be consistent.

I’m glad I saw this comment. I was following the video and noticed the same thing. On my Servo cable the Ground was brown, Power was red, and Signal was peach-orangish. BL-Touch was already wired correctly but it was a white connector not red.

No problem!

Are you using the touch interface or Marlin interface?

Are you able to home the printer properly or does it just go down? Make sure you have the black/white wire plugged in properly. Test up and down using the Z controls, not just the homing.

Thanks. I know there are a ton of videos I could make to help and I will do my best to get them out over time.

@@kerseyfabs you did a great job. Looking forward to your insight. well done sir!

Thanks for the new info! Black and white hopefully will stay ground and power respectively and yellow will be signal.

@@kerseyfabs Actually I have white ground, Black power (middle), and yellow signal towards the touch screen. With the blue wire going in the spot of the white wire in the Z endstop.

I'd love to! I hope I can find some time to put it together.

The only thing I could find with some quick searches was some older 1.1 code: github.com/Elenedeath/HE3D-Firmware It looks like you may have to start from scratch or ask around on Reddit or Facebook groups.

Yes, for Klipper 3D printer firmware, you'll need to configure the current settings for your steppers, such as TMC steppers, to ensure they operate correctly. This configuration helps in managing torque, precision, and temperature of the motors. You'll set these values in the firmware configuration file, typically adjusting parameters specific to your stepper motor's specifications and your printer's requirements.

My pleasure!

It does matter. It seems like the SKR V1.4 is finally end of life. I'll work to get a SKR 2 video as soon as I can.

I'm really sorry to hear that. That's a fine board too though. I've been printing with it for a while now and no complaints.

Colin, thanks for the update on your build! I'm glad to hear it's working correctly. The reason your hotend does not home to center is because you have a BLTouch. Since the BLTouch is offset from the head, it needs to be in the center when it homes. The default Creality firmware does this incorrectly. I even released a version of the software that fixes it for the stock/silent board. You can change your probe's offset using M851: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html

Kersey Fabrications Thank you for all your time .. i have noticed another thing with mine.. it wouldn’t start printing because it came up with a run-out sensor problem. So what I had to do is turn off run-out sensor on the screen! Have you Any ideas why? The run-out sensor is still lit blue ! When i turned it off on the screen. Thanks again for all your time..

From what I can tell, the screen's run-out sensor support is different than the firmware's run-out sensor support. I haven't finished looking into this but it doesn't happen when using the text display.

I don't have this finalized but I will most likely be going with one nozzle, two inputs. This is much easier to configure and maintain than the alternative. There is more purging but I think there's less headache.

@@kerseyfabs I'm in the process of setting up one on my ender 5 plus myself. www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZRJJVP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mESeFb2FWYNB1 I've run into a few minor issues. (Finding right hero parts to use, not using the same runout sensor (btt and stock) and having it trigger because the firmware settings are wrong. (I ordered 2 BTT but only set up one because I wasn't sure how I wanted to mount them.) setting up cura) with any luck I'll have my first multiple color print this weekend some time. 1st time doing this type of upgrade and winging it type issues. Thanks for all the hard work on the 5 plus videos I must say they have been a big help and the reason I went with the 1.4 turbo.

That's awesome! Glad I could help!

If you're in touch-screen mode, the "no printer connected" to connected is perfectly normal. It takes a second for Marlin to come up and communicate with the display. I don't know about your erratic Y moves. It could be the motor, a communication problem somewhere or the belts and pulleys. As for your mid-print failures, I'd recommend switching over to Marlin mode for a test print and see if that gives you any more output on failure. If that doesn't work, you may have to be hooked up to the console during printing to see what's going on. Good luck!

​@@kerseyfabs In marlin mode it says TMC ERROR, what does that mean?

@@javs2406 It means there's something wrong with one or more of your stepper drivers or the motors. There are some diagnostics you can run from the console but if this is the Turbo and they're onboard, you may have to replace the board.

Thanks! I've always liked the ending music better than the opening!

If you want the extra stepper driver then yes, at this point. If not, then I'd go with the Mini E3 V2.0 since it's easier to install and has an onboard EEPROM.

It's already available to my Patreon supporters. It should be available to everyone else very soon.

There's no advantage. I just do it for clarity. Since we use the BLtouch as our Z-endstop, it seems clearer to me. Yes, if you switch to the probe pins, the firmware would need changing.

Perfect! I was thinking of building it into the model but that's such an easy workaround.

My x axis is also going in reverse on my Ender 5 Plus with skr 1.4 turbo.----- Edit: Scratch that, I didn't flash the firmware correctly. Renaming the provided firmware in the description to just firmware.bin worked for me. It is homing correctly now. Thanks!

Make sure you're grabbing the latest branch. Older branches may no longer compile due to changes in some of the libraries or build environment. Check out the "Branches" dropdown on GitHub.

Did you get this to work?

I'm working on this now! Coming soon!

@@kerseyfabs Awesome, I literally cant wait. ive already run into a few prints where regular supports have been difficult if not impossible to remove cleanly. I also like doing text inlays and it would be really cool to do an inlay with a different color. Your channel is the first one I've actually clicked the bell notification button for lol. Also can I just say I love the 3d printing community, its so rare on youtube to get replies from the video creators and actually being able to have a back and forth with a couple of different 3d print oriented channels is kind of mind blowing.

I appreciate all of that! I have the parts, I just need to get working on it. I just started printing some of my custom designed parts today. I do my very best to respond to every comment, at the very minimum with a like or heart. Sometimes they get by me but not often. 😀

Kersey Fabrications just out of curiosity are you going to show a dual hot end set up or a dual extruder with a Y adapter? Hopefully you plan to explain both, you usually do a very good job of thoroughly explaining the different options and setup. Honestly mostly just hoping to steal your firmware so I don’t have to set it up myself, I think that is probably a bit beyond me and will probably keep me from doing the upgrade lol.

I will be going with the single nozzle with two extruders. I'll cover why in the video.

If you're using the filament runout sensor with the touch screen UI, you have to wire the sensor directly to the back of the display. There you will find the FIL-DET pins. You can see the pinout here: github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TFT35-V3.0/blob/master/Hardware/TFT35%20V3.0-PIN.pdf Then you can set it up using the UI and it should work for you. I hope this helps. More info: Basically, whatever is feeding the printer the gcode is what has to detect the runout and pause. If it's Marlin, then to the mainboard. If it's touch UI, then the display. If it's OctoPi, then the Raspberry Pi. I hope this helps.

@@kerseyfabs Thank you so very much for taking the time to guide me. I will make up some extension cables and give this a whirl. Appreciate all of your very educational videos, keep up the good work!

@@LivnlargeCO I'm happy to help John!

No problem!

That's correct. That's how it's suppose to be. The leveler is in charge of finding level, not the nozzle.

@@kerseyfabs ok thank you . I was confused cause of the stock bed leveling . I made a test print and was perfect and silent!

I'm glad you find it helpful!

Kersey Fabrications, everything works except my BL touch stays blue and never self tests. Any input?

Figured out my endstop wiring was backward. But if i do it how the drawings show it should be the bl touch doesn't work at all, and the screen gets very very dim. Help please!

@@kerseyfabs Figured it out on the 3.0 sensor you have to swap red and brown wires!

Sorry I missed these. Is red not in the center?

Yes, it will also work in the CR-10. It will just need different firmware compiled most likely. I already had my TMC2208s from a previous order, so I only needed the board.

@@kerseyfabs Thank you for answering.. www.amazon.com/dp/B082X9TXPH/?coliid=I8EAO3SXWJNMM&colid=2T40XK5YCI0NP&psc=1 is a link with the 2208 driver with the board. If you want to give another option in your links.. Thanks for the great videos. They are a very big help to me..

Actually, be careful, that is the old touchscreen only display. It doesn't have support for Marlin graphical/text display. You'll need a V3.0 display.

Let's see what we can do. First, did you verify that you are indeed running my firmware? Second, did you reset EEPROM defaults? EEPROM Init. Third, have you tried using the Marlin interface to make sure it's not a problem with the touch UI?

​@@kerseyfabs hey I figure this out. The only question I have is I have a direct drive setup. Will this work correctly with it. I was getting some blobbly line extrusions.

I appreciate the replies and am in the calibration steps. You have been a huge help already. Thnx

Also, the drivers for both Z1 and Z2 are really hot Please i need help :(

Check out my video on G34 Z alignment. It shows exactly what you're looking for.

Z1 and Z2, as marked on the board are not electrically separate, they are wired in parallel. So, if using dual Z steppers, it will be either of the Z connectors and E1. TMC2209 uses the stepper in UART mode. TMC2209_STANDALONE means that you are controlling the steppers physically with jumpers and potentiometers. You can buy them in either configuration or make modifications to change them. The standard ones from BTT are in UART mode.

@@kerseyfabs Has anyone told you how awesome you are today? :)

@@tonnictv That's awesome of you to say!

Please go to my community page: kzfaq.infocommunity There, several posts down possibly, you will find my latest firmware for the board and display. This should fix your problem. I'll update my links in the description later.

Yes. This will work fine with OctoPrint. I don't use the touchscreen mode, so I don't exactly what that looks like but it works great in Marlin mode.

Yeah, the BLtouch wiring changes from time to time. For the touch interface, make sure the black wire is connected correctly and your display's baudrate is set to 115200.

Nope. Functionally, they work the same. I use the Z-stop simply for consistency. Since I'm using it as the Z-stop and not just for leveling, it makes sense to me.

Did you switch the BLtouch black and white wires for my firmware over to the Z endstop position? When you flashed my firmware, did firmware.bin become firmware.cur?

I hope it lives up to expectations. 😬 😅