I appreciate your English sir

i speak 4 lenguages

Most people in the world don't have the need to speak a second language.

@@reallyeffingcooltechnodude well I have the need to speak 4 languages

i speak 5 languages

Very informative video. Thank you so much. පස්සේ be more confident when you speak. You know a lot & you can articulate well. Just trust yourself! Hope to see more good videos from you just like this one.

Exactly, you can easily find tutorials for all kinds of stuff, but you should never stop learning, so it's nice to have something explained more thurough and to think about it, even after my 20 years of cycling.

This video is underrated, AND the information here will be hated by manufacturers, why? 1) manufacturers want people to cross chain so the chain will wear too soon compelling cyclists to buy a new one too soon, especially those who choose single chainring 2) if you ask me, a chainring being aligned to a rear cog, i consider it cross chaining already if you shift the chain beyond two cogs either upshift or low shift, BUT, a double chainring does not mean it can accommodate 8 cogs, a double chainring can only accommodate 5 cogs, because it can only sit aligned between the second and fourth cogs, because if you ask me, a chainring can only handle three to four cogs maximum for optimum power transfer, three to four cogs width is around 25mm, aligning a chainring with a cog which is beyond the line range of a chainring which is around 25mm (for me) is already considered (to me) cross chaining, this is about 26er to 29er wheels, its much severe if the wheels are only 20inches - one chainring can only handle three cogs nearest to the chainring line because the smaller the wheel, the more bent the chain if cross chained 3) manufacturers created the aluminum chainring so a worn chain will be immediately replaced by the cyclist, since the aluminum does not give way to steel, when the chain is worn it will either fall off or make an annoying clicking sound that compels the cyclist to purchase a new chain all too soon thus boosting chain sales, especially those who use single chainring system or 1x in both hills and flats, its best if the entire drivetrain is made of steel so every component involved will wear together evenly without having to replace any part of the drivetrain, i have one bike 2x5 and it rode for average 20km a week for more than a decade its still good despite all the other bike parts were already replaced but the drivetrain is still good because i don't cross chain, only shifter and derailleur replace, but the chain and the front rear sprockets are still together worn evenly yet no need to replace any one part 4) since the width of 8/9/10 speed cogs are the same, but for convenience sake, use a 2x5 or a 3x6 or a 3x10, its more practical to use 10 instead of 8/9 because their widths are the same anyway it'd be a waste of cog space choosing 8/9 speeds so its better if its 10 speed because 11speed is already wider than ten speed, i wonder maybe that's why shimano updated their triple chainring from square taper to hollowtech, for a 29er wheel i think its still optimum to use 3x12 but i doubt there's a triple chainring for 11/12 speeds

Hell yeah it is

Agreed! Something else to keep in mind while cycling is to wear the proper helmet, most helmets have an outdated safety standard, the best ones are the ones that pass the nta standard like xnito or bern hudson

Thanks for the kind words, Brandon. :) I hear that a lot, often from both UK and USA - how underrated BikeGremlin is. Locally, in my city (and country), people recognize me in the street, especially the cyclists and mechanics (got a website and a KZfaq channel in my native, Serbocroatian). Mostly very good vibes with very few downsides for now. That surprises me, because my articles and videos are relatively "specialized" - I consider them to be long, boring, in detail, the way I like things explained to ME. I didn't think there are too many people who like that. Didn't expect to see many people enjoying it, videos just started as demonstrations to follow what's explained in my articles, nothing more. In English, there's a lot more competition so to speak. ParkTools channel (and website) for example - that is the level of production, video editing and narration that I'm aiming towards, but doing it my way, with a bit more details, perhaps followed by shorter, simpler video versions for the super-busy single moms who are very tight with time (one example, many people today are very busy as far as I can tell). So I do things my way, the way I like it, and in time, the channel will surely get the popularity it deserves (well see whether that is 3 thousand, or 3 million subscribers). I don't expect an average person to watch BikeGremlin instead of ParkTools - Calvin Jones is a brilliant teacher in my opinion. Will they watch it along? Maybe, we'll see. :) Without any false modesty: I get into long digressions more often than I'd like to. Many videos (and articles for that matter) could use a shorter version (not everyone wants to know about every caveat and gotcha, they just want to start). I plan to do that as well, but it will take a few more years probably to just cover all the important topics in detail, first. :) As far as I'm concerned, if a video, or an article help at least one person - it's worth it. I often use BikeGremlin articles as a reminder/reference (that's how the website started, just publishing my notes online, making it conveniently available wherever I go :) ). While videos are making my son interested into fixing bikes, so every one I make is worth just for that - I won't live forever, but the videos will hopefully last a bit longer. :)

@@BikeGremlinUS thanks for the reply! It makes me happy to hear that you are recognized in person. I am fascinated by the engineering and geometry of bikes and I found a lot of those “how do I ask” questions from your content. Park Tool & GCN has many videos about how gears and shifting work and I already know how & when to shift, but I love to learn HOW these things work and I am thankful for your “boring & long” lessons. I had no idea that you had a website and I am excited I get to nerd out and read a bunch of information that will be 90% I already know but there’s always hidden treasure that Calvin Jones, everyone’s favorite mechanic,just hasn’t mentioned. I’m extremely thankful for your content and I’m looking forward for more brainiac videos!

Here's a list of all my content (like a sort of a hub): www.bikegremlin.com/ And the same for my native: www.bikegremlin.com/pocetna/

Yes!!! As I am a beginner @66yo 💁‍♀️😀🩷🙋‍♀️

Hi Daniel, Thank you very much for the kind words. :) Very glad to hear the video helped you.

OR get a FAR superior ROHLOFF14. My SA XL-RD5w is no slouch for going fast with a limited low end.

@@GordoGambler im not spending $2000 on a hub gearbox.

I'm having problem getting into the 1st gear front. Bike has been at service and everything. All gears work back and front. But the front 2nd gear does not want to respond down to the 1st unless I change gears back while trying to get into 1st front.

@@hahahdhaw agreed, I rarely use it, if at all. I even consider removing it from my bike, it's only useless weight for me.

Exactly. As I just wrote here, having a triple is like having three "one-by's" since you stay on the same front ring most of the time, to match the terrain and the kind of riding you want to do, and most of your shifting is done on the rear derailleur. So, on uphills you're on the hill one-by, on downhills and flats you're on the fast one-by, and on rolling terrain you're on the general purpose one-by. Sure, you're restricted to the top or bottom 7-8 cogs on the first and last, but that's fine because you don't need the restricted cogs then. When I set up my 3x10 I no longer had to keep shifting both derailleurs to get into the right gear. And the middle ring goes with any of the rear cogs because that's how a one-by works, and using the middle ring is literally like an actual one-by because it can work with all the cogs. People misunderstand the purpose of a triple. Sure, it's to give you a low range of bailout gears. But it's also to simplify shifting and make riding more enjoyable.

Glad to hear it has helped. :) As for the negatives - I don't take things too seriously, and I like joking on my own account so to speak (so no one gets offended). No sweat. :)

Never thought about it. I'll have to start developing a shifting pattern and being careful under the specific conditions he mentioned. This video was really insightful in my opinion.

I'll have to count the teeth on each of the chainrings and rear sprockets and get a sorted list of possible gear ratios by dividing the chainring by rear sprocket teeth. Then try to remember the sequence, eliminating the extreme angle combinations. Maybe print out a small chart for reference for the optimal combinations.

That's a good question. I'll address it from the practical, and theoretical "angle:" 1) Practice: I've never had problems when leaving the derailleurs on the largest front chainring, and the middle of the cassette (never stored bikes on the largest rear sprocket, as it's not the gear I end the rides in, as I live in flat lands :) ). 2) Theory: When you leave the derailleurs in positions where there's some cable and spring tension (as in the scenarios you described), the potential problem is spring weakening, or spring creep, spring fatigue. OK. Let's discuss that. The amount (say percentage) of how much a spring (including the derailleur springs) "relaxes" while being left loaded depends on the following: - The higher the temperature - the more quickly it relaxes. - The higher the load - the more quickly it relaxes. That creep is exponential over time. The relaxing that happens within the first say 10 days is far greater than any extra amount of creep that happens afterwards. 3) Practice 2: Problems that often occur after long storage depend on (poor) maintenance: rusted cables, dirty/rusty derailleur pivots and similar. Those things cause shifting problems but those problems are not a result of the gear the derailleurs were in when the bike was left for storage. Maybe the problem with spring creep (point 2) affects derailleurs that had pretty weak springs to begin with, maybe - but that hasn't been my experience so far. So, my answer and opinion would be: it doesn't matter. Of course, my opinion is based on my knowledge, education and experience. Different riders and mechanics have different experiences and hence different opinions. That's normal. Relja Edit: Questions and answers page (KZfaq sucks at dealing with comments): www.bikegremlin.com/questions/

@@BikeGremlinUS Hi really i never expect this answer but i believe that your answer is the best for my question, thanks a lot.

@@ADLQASEM ... , ... do think of spring fatigue when they are on tension ( for nothing ) ... /.. , let it lay at rest ... ( not at rust )

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The only reason for doing this is to reduce stretching of the gear cables but also the chain. I don’t always strictly adopt it myself as prescribed, because I tend to use my bike almost everyday (certainly for commuting everyday anyway), but every time I park my (double chain set) bike up, I’ll drop the chain onto the smaller chainring at the front and also drop the chain onto one of the smaller cogs on the rear cassette. I’m not anal about it though and I must confess that this is something I’ve only relatively recently learnt to do from watching some other KZfaq video. It most definitely extends the time between having to adjust gears as a consequence of cable stretch though in my opinion. It slackens the chain too.

Thank you very much - appreciated. :)

1x systems have that pro. But they also have their cons. Explained that here: bike.bikegremlin.com/6075/pros-and-cons-of-1x-groupsets-systems/ Likewise, modern electronic systems (at least Shimano, haven't tried any others) can be configured to do it all automatically, you just use on lever for up/down shifting, and the system worries about front and rear shifts, chainline etc. Neither of those is my cup of tea, but they do exist and some people love them.

Why front chain rings are more suitable for MTBs? Then say road bike or urban/commuter bike?

I put together an Excel spreadsheet for various combinations of front chainrings (48/32, 50/34, 52/36) and rear cassettes (11-25, 11-28, 11-30), and I found that you have to go all the way up to an 11-32 cassette to get a good overlap in the ranges of available gear ratios for the two chainrings. I run 50/34 and 11-32 on my road bike and it works very well for me. Most road bikes these days only come with an 11-28 cassette, which leads to the gap that you mention.

@@liambradley1723 Wow cool to see it reflect in the data. Interesting how changing the cassette makes the difference. I guess roadbikes aren't made to sprint from 0-35, you either sprint at low speeds while climbing or sprint on the large ring when descending. Time to modify :) I have a 50-34 and 11-28. Obviously you'd lose the fine gradient of the 11-28 for the endurance rides, but i've felt the cassette is too flat anyways for my style of stop and go. I find myself using mostly the 5-6 on the casette and shifting only on the chainrings because the casette varies so little, however on long rides the fine steps between 5-10 really allow me to smoothen my power output. But since im riding a singlespeed too, i probably wouldn't miss that delicate cassette adjustment capability anyways. Thanks for your time, im going on a ride now :)

stay cool

VERY good video on a subject all bicyclists should learn!

you know your stuff, great video.