Thank you! Finally someone that actually shares the information instead of hinting at it like someone else on KZfaq we all know.

Great narration , no music, talks slow and precise. Like my Calculus teachers. Precision speaking. Great site I'm subscribed.

very nice Robert. Always a pleasure seeing you work your magic

Exactly how it should be done, settle and then snugged up the fork. There is a wealth of tuning advice in this short clip and I am glad he mentioned the spring rate and the fact that you MUST change the springs to suit the rider weight AND riding style. For instance I run my tires at the low end pressure recommendation which means my springs and damping are quite different to someone running tires much harder. Rider weight has a huge effect on this too as he said.

Best suspension advice video on KZfaq. Just set my 04 zx10 using these sag recommendations and it was perfect on recent track day. 29 mm of static and 41mm with rider. Bike felt much better. I ended up using almost all my available fork travel (used zip tie to check). Bike felt like it turned much better and more importantly held the line which it hasn't done before(used to drift wide when getting back on the throttle). I had the front set too high in its travel before which meant the bikes geometry was all wrong. Don't make the mistake of having too much front preload if you aren't already bottoming the forks all the time , it just slows the bikes ability to turn.

Keep coming back to this time and time again, Perfectly easy to follow instructions Once again thank you

Wow I've been on KZfaq for an hour now and a couple of your videos finally made it click for me. Good work very understandable

superb, now i have taken umbrage with a few people who have changed my wheels about the way they sequence tightening the front wheel, and also the rear wheel, monkey see monkey do, without understanding what they are doing. Anyway i've just undone the front wheel and redid everything but bounced the front end to settle it (as opposed to using the front brake) and the front end is moving a lot better and smoother, with minimal input. this is a must watch video.

After tightening the pinch bolts, tie the front brake closed, then loosen and retorque the caliper bolts. This ensures realignment of the pads to the rotors. Always mark your pads to be able to return them to where they came from. Elevate the wheel and check for drag by spinning. Thanks

Thanks guys. Really appreciated!

I’ve just watched this again!!! Thank you

Brilliantly simple. Thanks a bunch

Other sag tutorials on YT: You'll need a bike lift which most of you don't even have at home This: *Bring two friends*

Great clear spoken advice thank you

I got an 00 R6 an my forks are the other way so are the measurements the same?

I want to know where the rebound and compression klicker is supposed to be when you messure sag. Is it suppose to be in the stock 12 clicks out "for example" or is it supposed to be all the way out so it dosent interfer whit the sag messurment!?

If the bike needs to Be lowered in order to accommodate the riders height . What would be the best way to go about it ? Lowering links or lowering the rear coil over under the seat?

Escellent video. Thank you kind sirs!

6:29 the main nut has to be tightened at the very end after tightening the clamps, right?

I have a question about the front forks when installing tires.... In the video you say after jouncing the bike to tighten the "right" side 2 allen bolts.... What about the elft hand side? When should those get tightened or would the left side stay slightly loose until the right aide is tight??? Thanks in advance Greg

8:43 OMG, buyer's remorse! I am the one who weighs only 61 kg! I came to this video after a few hours of frustration having been unable to achieve the 35-45mm difference recommended on my new Bitubo shock for my Vespa Sprint 150S.

very helpful and very detailed

Thanks Robert, your funny accent is much easier to understand online :-) Didn't know about re-aligning the forks until I watched this.

Excellent video! ProjectCarTV

What static sag settings should you be aiming for suspension with a top out srping?

That sneak diss at 2:55 😂😂😂

fantastic

R Sex hehe Wouldn't the suspension sag from rider weight vary according to how much total travel there is as well? I would have thought it would be a certain percentage of total travel...

I fucking love this guy on all his videos.

Ok I understand how to measure it, but the video is called "setting suspension sag", so now what? What's the difference between too much and too little?

if i have too much sag do i have to increase or decrease preload?

love how yamaha bikes look and perform, Is there any way to see what modifications where made to this r6?

Where should the preload, compression & rebound be set before measuring the sag?

How do i get the tail end to look like it's pointing up?

If you adjust the static sag you autmatically adjust the rider sag ?

I don't really understand - if the static sag should be "between 25 and 10 mm" how come the rider sag can be "between 24 and 27 mm"?

Are these measurements taken with a warmed up bike?

30mm of static sag on the forks, + 10 to 15mm more with the rider, that means 45mm of sag... Its confusing because every other publication talks of up to 35mm of sag for street ride, and 10mm is a big difference.... Is he correct or did he make a mistake? He never actually mentions the total sag we are looking for on the forks

Yeah... I have a GSXR 1000 and I'm 50kg. Guess I'm booking my bike in at a local suspension shop, hopefully it's not too pricey.

I have a 2005 sv 650 , my weight is 68 kg. What spring package could you recommend for daily riding and country riding.

...If your well FED... :P

Success, with full gear i'm 85kg xD

Good info, but the narrator almost put himself asleep.

He's whispering at the near end part of the video.

I got RT & his crew at kiwi suspension systems to install Ohlins to my bike front & rear 2012 VRod, My bike rides & handles better than new, strongly recommend for u to take your bike to KSS.

And you don't mention a thing about how to get to those target sag settings if you happen to fall outside of those measurements! Add preload? Firm up the compression or rebound dampening? you don't mention a thing about actually setting anything.

Did he jus' call me fat?!...

Ha ha well fed person.... Funny

You never measured and calculated for stiction.

what the hell...at 1;27.. guys were lifting by the pegs!!! thats not topout

"On a bike like this ... five to ten mm is the target you are looking for". How about the rest of people with different bikes?

"A very well fed person" lol this guy should go into politics.