For anyone having trouble at the edge crease part @ 2:15 you must be in edge select mode when you select the edges. If you are in vertices select mode your edges will be sharp when you apply the crease.

I just realized that none of these parts has started with "This tutorial brought to you by Poliigon. Make better renders faster."

The dog ate my homework, sir.

17:00 for somebody who don't wanna use UV squares addon select that part in face mode > hit u > lightmap pack > select some face to active (doesn't matter which one) > hit u again > follow active quads > length average boom.... find and install uv square

I recognize a man of culture when I see one. The banana for scale on your site for texture size reference is a symbol of quality and value, congratulations!

The link for a free texture is not free at all :(

6:58 Andrew and his team have the best wood available ;)

If anyone is interested I'll talk about plywood: So this material is produced from veneers they are alternating the grain 90° from each other to form a better structure and they are usually in odd numbers so that the grain follows the same direction on both sides Further more it is a nice material to work with, it is molded with presses with steam and glue, also the veneers depend on the type of wood and are usually between 0.7- 2 mm Thanks for attending my crash course

If you are having issues with your UV mapping stretching at the seams, look at your subdivision surface modifier. There is a setting called 'UV Smooth'. Setting this to 'All' sorted out my UV projection nicely

We should be thanking YOU for making these videos, making them free, and sinking so much time into making them of such good quality.

Me: Today I am declaring 100% focus on work Irresistable friendly Australian: Imma bout to end this man's old career

I've followed every video in this series, I wanted to say thank you because I've really enjoyed them. My wife and I have had a great time learning Blender these past few weeks, your random anecdotes have been a source of amusement during some of that tougher parts! We've really enjoyed learning everything you've taught in these videos. Thanks again!

A cool thing I discovered by accident is that I selected the chair seat and back and tabbed into UV edit. I was able to interact with both unwraps simultaneously. So for the plywood hack at the end, I had both islands selected and was able to scale them and place them in reference to one another for a consistent result. Gotta love Blender! Thanks for another good one, Guru.

An $800 dollar chair and you're sitting ON PLYWOOD? I made my chair solid wood out of spite.

When you unwrap each part separately like that each piece will be a different textual density, so each piece will have a different scale, when in reality all pieces will be made form the same material and have the same scale. Instead of going through each piece and adjusting its scale, you can select all of the objects together, go into edit mode and all of the UV's will be in the UV window, you then make sure they're all selected in the UV window and go to the UV menu and select average island scale and it will resize them so they are all the same textual density, then you can scale all of the UV's up or down together at the same time instead of painfully going through each one. With the rims I've always found UV Squares to be bit hit or miss, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, but you don't really need an add-on and you don't need to straighten every edge manually either, all you need to do is straighten one of the quads, then with that quad as the active selection press ctrl+l to select them all, right click and select follow active quads, it will straighten it out perfectly for you.

Hi Andrew! just wanted to give you a MASSIVE "Thank You!" from Boulder Colorado. I've been watching and learning so many invaluable things from your channel and I love it so much! Thank you for these tutorials as they have been my main learning material for Blender and you sir have inspired me to become a professional Blender artist as well. Thank you so much from the bottom of my heart, I've been wanting to learn 3D modeling/animation/simulations since I was a teenager and with your tutorial videos i may actually be able to achieve that dream! i will forever be grateful to you and i hope you have a wonderful day today and everyday you read this!

I'm not saying you should have done this here, because it's totally beyond the scope of the tutorial, but convincing wood texture is one of the hardest things to model. When working with wood textures, you need to pay attention to what woodworkers call end grain vs long grain or side grain. Wood is like a bundle of straws. The grain in your texture is long grain, like looking at the shiny side of the bundle of straws, and is appropriate for most of the piece. However, if you look at the top of the back supports, i.e. the bit that curves over the top, that is end grain, and is like looking at the ends of the straws. You also see it on the parts of the legs where they curve into the cross pieces. Look at the reference photo, and you'll see that these bits are darker, because end grain is less reflective. If you needed it to be totally realistic, you would need to use a different, end grain texture for those parts. It matters, not just because the pattern is different, but the way it reflects light is completely different. It's rougher, and looks a darker. On the top and bottom of the front and rear cross bars, where there are curved cuts, this is like slicing through the bundle of straws at a shallow angle, so they have some end grain properties, and some long grain properties. In terms of rendering, they are rougher than the front, which is all long grain. Wood is an anisotropic texture, like brushed aluminium or velvet. It reflects light differently depending on whether it's shining perpendicular to the stripes or along them, and whether you are looking into the grain or along it. If you don't model this, the textures look like a vinyl wrap, and not real wood. Another thing to consider with wood textures is a property called chatoyance. The most obvious example of this is curly maple, but mahogany also exhibits it, and all wood does to some extent, it's just not that obvious because it's more constant across the surface. Look at guitars using curly maple, and even though the surface is perfectly smooth, it looks like there's a shimmering 3D pattern. This is because the straws are not lying straight, but rippling along the length like this \/\/\/\/\/\. When you cut along the grain, you're actually cutting through some fibres at one angle, and others in at a different angle. These reflect light differently, because from any viewpoint, you're looking at some patches that are more end grain, and some that are more long grain. The anisotropic properties are different for each. It's like velvet where the pile is brushed towards you or away from you. It's also why mowed lawns look stripy. You can model this somewhat convincingly by using a texture that is used to control the anisotropic nature of the surface. Unfortunately, a photo of curly or flame maple effectively has this baked in, so the bands of light and dark are not real and you'd be fighting it. You would be better for your wood texture to be of plain-grained maple, and use a blurred image of black and white tiger stripes to control the anisotropic reflection. In your plywood example, the light and dark bands are not caused by light and dark wood, but by alternate plies being laid at 90 degrees to each other. One ply runs front to back, and the next runs side to side. That is, you're seeing alternating bands of long grain and end grain. The layer that is long grain on the side will be end grain on the front, and vice versa, so if the sides go light/dark/light, the front will go dark/light/dark, and on the curved corners there will be a fade from one to the other. You can see this in the reference at 12:26, where the front has dark end grain on top at the front, but it's light long grain at the side. On the corners, where it's all end grain, they look darker. It's fair to say that for a still image, most of the above is not important, but when animated, the play of light across the surfaces really reveals who has gone the extra mile.

This now makes so much sense! Thank you, I can finally understand UV unwrapping and how to work it.

Thank you so much for these tutorials! Been a rhino user for a while, transitioning to blender has been eye opening! Starting to document my modeling workflow for architecture at another level!

Andrew you do a wonderful job with your tutorials. They are informative and help make it easier to understand why certain ways of doing things may be better than others. I really appreciate you talent and effort. You have helped me a lot. Thanks for all your time and talents.

There's a free texture, find free tab. not the same texture as video tho I think it'll be enough

17:11 Blender has a function like this. It's called "Follow Active Quads". You have to select a square in the middle of your UV map and perfectly square it up with scaling y and x to 0 (like you explained). Then first select the square you made and then press L on the island to select the rest and finally search for "Follow Active Quads" and apply it. But yes the addon is faster just wanted to point out that it is possible in default Blender. Ps: You made another very good tutorial series here thank you so much!

Thanks mate that was awesome. Just finished the donut, and now this tut. Super happy to be back in 3D. Did it from 15-19 (now 37) in 3DSMax 2. Put money down to help make Blender open source. Have't touched it since. But the new UI/UX in 2.8 (plus quarantime) finally got me to do it again. And your tuts have been PERFECT to get back in. Thanks!

Thanks for re-uploading the last few parts of this series. I persevered in finishing, unwrapping and texturing before you uploaded so super homework!! Good to see how you tackled it after I've finished. Love the channel ❤️ your a great teacher and I'm learning some great tips from you so you have my thanks bud.

For anyone who gets a more "boxy seat" after applying the solidify modifier and doing your edge crease: 1. Apply the solidify modifier 2. Go into edit mode and click edge select 3. Select only the edges that circle the whole perimeter on the top and bottom of the seat, and don't select the vertical ones that connect those two sides. 4. Now do your edge crease (shift + E) and you should be good! No more cuts on your legs.

Honestly, that plywood side trick to get the layers is just gold. thanks for that

i just wanna say, thank you for all the hard work you put in this channel

You can use "Follow Active Quads" and then the selected island will follow the currently active Quad's shape in the texture mapping this can be used to fix the islands shapes and straighten it but the add on does well

You're hilarious! There would be a great difficult path to average out in the blender society without you. LOLZ. You're amazing thank you.

Note that if you are making assets for games, then there's a few final notes to be made for UVing. When texturing, never use a 3K file, it always has to be in the power of 2's (e.g. 1024, 2048, 4096). Your UV's must also be joined into a single object and UV'd into one square for the whole object, then the material is best tobe one image file (though exceptions can be made). For game assets you'll likely need to Bake the textures in, so you can follow this tutorial exactly as is, but to export for a game, you will need to join the entire chair together, and align the UV's again, but check on a Baking tutorial and especially one that uses baking from one UV to another UV data.

When doing the UV unwrap, if you use the UV grid texture on objects that will share the same image texture, then it's always a good idea to make those squares look the same size, that way when you apply the wood texture you won't need to resize every object UV separately, and if you need to do, then you can add a texture coordinate + mapping directly on the material.

Hi Andrew, I was randomly looking around on KZfaq and happened to see the post-apocalyptic scene tutorial you made 7 years ago and I was thinking how cool an updated tutorial would be. Best regards from Italy :)

Ribbed for her pleasure, didn't know I'd be getting a gem like this today

Non of what you say or do is in any way boring. Your tutorials are ace!

Yay, texturing is done! 19:59 just blew my mind, great tip!

Im not bored! Im enjoying! thanks Andrew!

The plywood edge texture trick is gold :D

Thank you UV Squares....loving it.

Yeiiiiii almost done! I'm loving this tutorial

I love when he says, “Duhnnaaaa!” As opposed to ta da

Well, done. So much fun learning about Blender in (almost) real time. Always looking forward to the next lesson. "Dude, GIMP is way better then Photoshop," Blender Guru.

2:00 If you select the round edges on the chair seat / backrest before you apply the mirror + solidify modifiers it will automatically extend your edge selection to the desired one, that way you can skip many of the annoying selections Andrew performs at 2:45 (this obviously becomes more useful when the mesh is more complicated).

this is totally fun to watch even as an experienced blender user.

@BlenderGuru this was my very first "honest" project. There's a lot to learn from this tutorial. Now having 2 years of Blender experience I do this tutorial again. This time with the clear understanding of why operations are done the way you do them. Also, having the knowledge of different tools, I can see why specific operations are done the way you do them. Finally understand topology and how a good optimized flow of the mesh is crutial to making photo realistic models. Any model at that. Them you. Keep up the amazing work.!

That moment when you realize you got the homework right is priceless. It's working! Andrew is pushing Blender through my thick skull! :D

That plywood trick is awesome! I've been looking for something like that and couldn't find a perfect solution.

As clear and explicative than usual, and don't care for slowliness we got time to spend at the moment. Thanks !

Me who figured out Andrews upload schedule: I am s p e e d

Can't decide whether watch my online class right now or this video :D

Highligting two points aside from each other, you can now right click and select "Align Auto" im sure you might be aware already since this vid is 2 years old, but thought id mention. Thanks for the TuT! Learned a TON!

You just made me understand modelling from scratch. Thank you. 😊

After finishing your donut and anvil tutorials, this chair seeming pretty easy to me. Learned so much from you. I really want to be a premium member of Poliigon but I am not earning money from 3d modelling, for now. I guarantee you've earned a future customer mister.

This community is so helpful

So this texture is no longer free?

Yeah I totally did the homework... Definitely haven't been just watching the entire tutorial series and not following along in blender at all........

Material node tip for when you have a group of textures (diffuse, roughness, normal etc.). With Node Wrangler installed, click on the Principled Shader, then press CTRL+SHIFT+T. An explorer window will pop up, choose all of your texture maps. NW will apply all of the textures with their respective settings too (like, non-colour data) plus normal map node etc. Very cool.

Thank you for the plywood trick! I never saw that before

17:27 - download and use UV Squares add on to quickly line up UV selection into grid. github.com/Radivarig/UvSquares

I love how we had the same exact idea for how to do the ply wood edge texture, XD

Using the squares texture has made UV unwrapping much less of a scary thing to me. Thanks!

The comment has been the solution to soo many of my problems :-D

the only online lesson i enjoy paying attention on

It´s a super late comment, but if your are having trouble with the shape of the seating at the crease part, be sure to select **manually** the edges (as recommended by @Arch Achibold). By box selecting the edges, the shape of seating would loose the smoothness and try follow the edges straightly. Worked for me. Using Blender 3.something... 2023.

@17:37 I approve of this method. Great idea!

holy shit, I just wanted to make easy basic utility blocks for the house with 3D printing but now I've learned so much that I can go so far beyond that basic plan

17:40 you can use this kind of trick when you make stylized object! like making character's inner outlines by modifying UVs to pixel colors! Nice tutorial

thank you so much for this tutorials man

Finally the advertisement for your own website, waited for it too long.

You are more than a teacher. You are good compagny...

Welcome back😀

a little trick that I constantly use in 2.8, is the ability to bring multiple objects into edit mode. This is something that would not only save time, but more accurately scale different parts to match. Once all parts are selected in object mode, go into edit mode and select all verts. Then select all verts in the UV window as well. Then, with your mouse over the UV window, hit cntrl A. This will scale all parts of the UV to match their scale in the model. Then simply scale all of the UVs to however you like until you are satisfied with the texture. It's so much easier than trying to eye it and scale each UV one at a time!

It's so helpful for me and everyone who learning blender❤️🔥🔥

Andrew change the link you put it the premium one, on the link which that's free

Very nice!

In the Solidify modifier, if you set Crease to 1 for both inner and outer, it's as you want it when you hit apply. No need to add the crease manually.

I had everything evenly scaled evenly, then I realized it was all a bit too big. I figured out you can scale everything at once, and it was extremely helpful. You do this by selecting all in Object Mode, going into Edit Mode, selecting all in Edit Mode, go into the UV map window, select all in the UV map window, then scale.

Laaayyyeeerrrsss... Cake has layers!

UV Squares addon for blender helps so much for textures.

If you are in face select you can also use the UV sync selection (upper left corner in the UV-screen). If you then press "L" both screens show what is selected

Mr. Andrew, that plywood technique was one of these cheats we love hahaha

When UV editing, you can select a line of points or edges, right click, and there are options for straightening and aligning. You can do this with Auto, X, or Y options.

Andrew, you can use reset uv and then follow active quads. It will create a square and everything else selected will follow

Ive been using : "U --> M" to mark seems and "U --> E" to clear seems.

Like in any other thing on youtube - proffesionals makes complex things look so easy

11:09 wtf 5 years of blender and I’ve never known this wtf that is so helpful

awesome Guru, thnak you, thanks Andrew 😀👍👍👍👏👏👏

3:32 It is still very good to learn the shortcuts. It is so much faster than to right-click and find what you want in the list. Or picking the action from the toolbars. But it is also good to know different ways to do the same thing, as everyone has different ways of working. I will say, as someone who works with drawing programs all day, the faster you can do the things you can already do, the more valuable you are to your company. (Or the more free time you have as a freelancer.) I don't know how many times my boss has said when we're about to leave, "Can you do this thing? If not, it's ok. I'll get someone to do it tomorrow." And I do it in 15 minutes and he goes "Wow, if I gave it to anyone else, it would take them 4 hours." This let's you focus on other tasks the next day, and also makes your clients happy they didn't have to wait until the next day, if it was something that had to go out.

"we have the best wood available".. cheers Andrew

usually I switch selection mode to faces and then while hovering over an island in the viewport hitting L will actually select the enclosed area within seam enclosure. This is an alternative way to changing select linked to seams @11:08

So what I did is I made the plywood texture from nodes, using mapping -> wave texture -> color ramp -> mixRGB (blend mode as add) with the wood texture. It looks in my opinion better than Andrew's original approach on the plywood, but it is very fiddle-ly when trying to scale and rotate this wave texture, and I would say the other method Andrew suggested by giving bunch of loop cuts on the plywood and assign the faces would look better. The node approach is however very flexible on changing the layers, changing the colors, and other stuffs.

Hey, Andrew, you could set the crease directly in the solidify modifier so you don't have to apply it separately after

UV unwrapping is the hellish underbelly nobody tells you about when learning Blender. I gave up several times, but I always come back to this one because at least he gets the pain. I'd rather just leave my scenes with solid colors tbh :D

you can also use (Ctrl + Tab) to change vertex selection to island selection mode in UV Editor, instade of using Ctrl + L.

I am following your videos, my chair is a bit worst than yours (of course) but the ideas you are giving are just so helpful, may God bless you my Australian fellow

for some reason my uvs were basically perfect, thank the gods

In the uv editor there is a button by the vertex/edge/face/island select mode buttons to sync 3d view and uv editor selections. That way you can just select anything in the 3d view and it'll select it in the uv editor :)

Further to your loop-cut-and-alternate-materials point, a slightly more advanced middle-ground would to use the same texture, but alternate the shades with a Bright/Contrast or Hue/Saturation node (the latter I find produces more natural results with less tweaking). It'll add a slight amount of complexity to your shader, but has the benefit of being realistically stratified whilst also keeping the character of the original wood grain & colour. It's something I use very often when performance isn't of utmost priority. It adds a lot of flexibility and is reasonably artist friendly, too. In general I find that you can do a lot with a minimal amount of textures, provided you're comfortable getting a little more stuck-in with the node editor.

If anybody was expecting there to be a way to copy the UV map data from the first slat to the second, there is a way: left-click on the second slat in Object Mode, hold SHIFT and left-click on the first slat (i.e. the one with the UV map you want to transfer), press CTRL+L (Link/Transfer Data), and select 'Copy UV Maps'.

11:00 if you are stuck and are finding multiple shared vertices across UV islands when you press L and delimit by seams, then make sure you have 'UV sync selection' turned off in the UV editor.

He is called Blender Guru for a reason.