😂😂😂

here-here!

That's what I did when I reccaped my Victor RE-45. It works amazing. That's a very good advice for people who don't know.

Interesting 😮

Like add ESR to the cap. The wire wound resistor has some series inductance to.

AKA, Sony Bond. It affects all kinds of electronics. If it starts to turn dark brown or darker, get it off the board.

That's a great point.!!, I too have seen glue become conductive and cause many problems in TV's.

lol yeah the white glue is okay most of the time, but that transparent stuff is nasty. Another fun one are those fancy looking motherboards with chipset coolers that have stickers/decals on them... those come loose over time because of heat and get trapped in the fans.

KRK monitors had some black stuff where the liquid would seep out and cause corrosion, the rest of the glue became brittle. Have to remove that and hopefully before components are so wrecked you can;t even see what they were

@@Joetechlincolns is that still common? Thanks

In the past I had resolved CPU problems as well due to the heat sink compound getting on the CPU pins or on the visible CPU circuit. Wiped off the compound on those pins or other contact points and the computer worked fine then..

It next turns corrosive and eats the legs off components it’s in contact with.

@@porkchop3656 Yes acid (or caustic soda or other)

yep, dont go too higher in voltage , and yes some types of glue definitely cause trouble, in some cases causes corrosion and track or wire damage

Tremendous waste of money too......if you could even squeeze it in.

Yes, I remember years ago reading that too high a voltage isn't good for use at much lower voltages.

Yep, and there is something else to consider too. E.g. with modern switching power supplies, ESR (=equivalent series resistance) is important. Higher voltage caps have higher ESR than lower voltage one with same capacity, which is a bad thing. So, going a little higher may be ok, but not much higher.

I shot gun the caps in my vintage repairs. These caps are 40+ years old and way past their lifetime expectancy. And for s**ts and grins, I 'll use my ESR which says "yep.. it's fine" and use my old Heathkit leakage checker. 80% of the "good" caps fail leakage tests. The exception to this rant seems to be the smaller electrolyics normally used in the radio RX boards for example. Most of those I replace with WIMA anyways.. I hate having to redo my work. And fixing a unit just to have a ancient cap fail a few laters is stupid. I also replace driver transistors for the same reason. You have no idea how abused they are so I just replace them since I already have the unit apart on the bench. Zeners go to for the same reason. Carbon resistors in amplifier boards get replaced because most of drifted a fair bit and will continue to drift as they age even more. And I should say, I don't "repair" my projects.. I "restore" or "rebuild" them.. just like a car. And lets be clear.. this is my opinion.. nothing more. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. My clients are happy with mine and how I do the work :)

@@MikeSweeneyMedia , Yeah, if you have to undo the dial string mechanism in order to pull up the RF, IF, and/ or MPX board (often those circuits are combined on one single long PC board), you want to be really certain that recapping is done with known good caps, and that you fix any problems or potential problems before you put the whole shebang back together.

I see your point. His advice is good if you are recapping something that works already.

Yes, better to replace the electrolytic and paper caps than destroying transformers and such that are made of "unobtainium" now. I do the same on old tube stuff.

Oh definitely, old caps can short out. So can small smd ceramic caps if they develop a micro fracture from mechanical stress.

#BIGFACTS & #2Thumbs&BigToes^UP^

Thumps up Often I take pictures with my wirless phone. And every time I mark the capacitor (and the orientation from connectors). I use often diffenrent colours. I mark capacitors on top and at the PCB with a small dot.

One more, I usually recap no more then four caps then do an operation check. Just in case you have back track.

@@philhemenway3503 not a bad idea, but depending on how hard it is to access the boards or get them back into circuit, that could really add up in time lost! One section at a time seems reasonable compromise

Great suggestion, but my Q is: how do you test capacitors?

@@CycloneCyd There are many cap meters avaiable or your DVM may have a cap measuring capability.

Good point! I've seen this too on older Toa amps!

I once encountered an LED which had the flat marking on the positive lead. It should be on the negative lead. I was so confused.

Diode: mismarked; ☺1 in thousands; thank God I cheched 'em all!

@@PunakiviAddikti yep, i have some like that, you must never assume the polarity, double check

wrongly polarized caps make nice fireworks , ask me how i know..

Remember the era when people used to mount their amplifier directly on the subwoofer box itself? LOL I made a lot of easy money repairing amps because the vibration had shaken loose anything heavy or tall. XD (the amps were usually mounted sideways)

neither do I .. very good one ...

Number tops of caps 1, 2,3.. etc, in order, now you know polarity and position after removing from circuit.

I take lots of photos too. Your cell phone camera can be a real friend here. ;-)

Seems to me that you are out of their leagues, to put it mildly.

Right? That tip alone was firmly worth the time for the vid. It's deceptively obvious now, but I can imagine falling into the trap otherwise!

They were interesting days, I worked for PHILIPS whilst studying for Electronics Engineering and Electro-Mechanical Engineering Degrees. Then Joining the Military in 1970, serving for 20 years. The manufacture of Electronic devices ceased, with production facilities closing, and operations being sent offshore. I am familiar with all the brands you mention. (Magnavox is a division of PHILIPS) I was repairing Magnavox Radios and TV at age 8 ... Being taught by my uncle (Moms brother) The same happened more recently with the Automotive manufacturing industry, and their component suppliers, Borg Warner for instance, all ending their manufacturing operations. In those early days, everything was Vacuum Tubes, then hybrid devices began appearing in the early 1970s. I still have a VTVM a high-quality Analog Multimeter, and other equipment that is 50 years old and older. Some of it is former Military equipment, I expect it will be dumped after I am dead. I claim that if the US President was half as smart as the President of China, he would subsidize shipping costs to overseas locations, as does China. This makes buying Chinese products very cost-effective. The US Government is taking its orders from the U.N. and it CREDITORS, the international Banking Cartel. instead of making the purchase and shipping of US made products viable, the US wasted trillions on supporting overseas Military bases where the locals do not want them. The Grand scheme of the International bankers is to make CHINA great, and exploit the people over the following 500 years as was done with America. as the population grew. - The US is now dead in the water and will sink whether the people like it or not. All that can be done is to pacify and brainwash the people with a load of BS to prevent a revolution and civil unrest, until such time that population control, tracking/surveillance is in full operation. What we are seeing now are dress rehearsals and system testing in the guise of COVID-19 Plandemic

@@andrew_koala2974 I agree with your comments on lower shipping fees from the US. I see many excellent US products new and second hand. However the shipping costs for customers in Australia can sometimes be quite a bit more than the goods themselves .. A real shame actually. I have one or two old pieces of test equipment made entirely in the US. They are very satisfying to use. Thanks for voicing some interesting thoughts.😁

Panasonic? was and is part of the Matsushita corporation of Japan. That said, it's been a trading name of Matsushita since forever.

Yes, in addition to that the higher the voltage rating the higher the ESR.

I see this a lot. Even units where the manufacturer has marked the board incorrectly, and fitted capacitors backwards because they followed the board markings!

It is really valuable author' advice with markings. Simple and clear. Also not bad idea today is to make sharp photo of board (with flash) with parts and connections in original placement. And to study original schematic for tracing damages - this saves unnecessary replacements which do not help and degrade overall condition .

Lots of people think the glue is electrolyte leakage... And yes, marking things helps, but I use photos, lots of photos from lots of angles. That has saved my ass many times. lol!

I believe that 'glue' used to hold electrolytics and larger parts is normally known as 'staking adhesive' . It turns brown over time and is frequently mistaken for leaking electrolyte.

Same! I just finished recapping a TS-530S, and I checked each ones polarity as I pulled it out, just in case the marking on the board was buried somehow. But I never thought it could be wrong! I'll be marking my caps orientation before pulling them from now on!

While I don't work in the industry, I do electronic repair for myself. Marking the orientation is a great idea. I have removed caps only to then question the orientation on the board. I now mark orientation on everything I remove (for the most part).

I don't understand your point about capacitance and voltage being inter related. Surely, you identify the working voltage for the capacitor that you want to replace, and then replace it with a capacitor of the same or higher working voltage *and* the same value of capacitance. Isn't that what you do? What are you saying, the capacitance of the original capacitor depends on the DC voltage across it?

@@deang5622 that's actually exactly what I'm saying! I myself only learned this a few years ago, which is a bit embarrassing as I'm an EE. An older more experienced EE told me this back in 2017 and it seemed wrong so I read up on it and what do you know, it's actually correct. I seem to recall it's only on more exotic ceramic dielectrics used in modern MLCCs and some of the more modern dry electrolytic varieties such as niobium oxide, but give me a few minutes and I'll see if I can find the papers I read on the subject.

if you have the instrument, the right one, its an excellent idea ....

@@eloyex yes,a tester is always handy,not too expensive nowadays,made in China ofcourse

Measure for sure, also apply DC and 'form' the cap and check leakage and true capacitance after forming, of course discharge the cap before measuring again!

@@mmpiforall5913 If you're concerned that your new cap might be open, plug it into mains and see if it explodes. If so, it was good ;-)

In some sensitive points of circuitry - specially in tape recorders of gramophone preamps value is also important. It is good idea to check real capacitance of new stuff - I found that of new 10pcs valuated at 10 uF no one reached 10 uF, some still in 10% tolerance but some were as low as 7,5 uF. While original ones 25 years old were opposite - above 10uF That can make quite a difference. Special care should be put to replacement of capacitors in speaker crossovers - producer tolerance is 10% so replacement without measurement usually will change sounding of set. Any change may be falsely interpreted as proof that old one had bad condition. Original one should be measured and , (in my opinion, if we tend to care for original timbre) value followed with accuracy 0,5% . It may be hard to match and proper way is to use smart combination of smaller values. Which will will not look original - that is why I would think twice before replacing crossover capacitors just for "idea".

@Rosetta Stoned Yah only being doing this for 40 yrs. Share your wisdom please :)

mmmm that weird fishy smell :)

What you are seeing is very old SonyBond glue used to hold capacitors and ferrite’s and other components especially in items that are moved a lot for example CB radios are notorious for having this glue in a lot of the old brands, and it is still being used today. It’s best practice to remove the glue around capacitors and crystals and wires with ferrite beads on them etc. As you have noticed once it turns brown its really very corrosive and conductive. It appears to be Latex based from experience and there are chemicals available to soften it so it’s removable.

Not really happened all the time to make a capacitor look vintage say. Yes if you're trying to disguise a capacitor for something else a more expensive quality that's not right

@@johnsweda2999 yes, quite common to replace old cap cover over new caps. It keeps the vintage collector happy.

i've done that a few times to keep appearance, alternative is to fit new cap under chassis but leave old one in place on top but completely disconnect

Have you seen a very small NiCad cell embedded inside a D cell? Surprise... surprise 😬😬 a Lithium Ion 18650 cell labeled as “ protected cell” and upon opening saw an empty shining disk? Opened drill replacement battery pack to see 2 old unconnected dummy cells.... so on and so forth! Life in China, is full of surprises!😆😆

I dont trust even trusty sources. and I love ebay !!! About this is, i use a recognized store ......

many modern capacitors are crap

mica caps are usually very low percent tolerance, standard wax paper types 20% or maybe even more, old 'poly' dielectric caps should still be ok, same as with ceramics

@@andygozzo72 i am sure this is pretty accurate and yes the 1% I think are mica. The issue is these are not brands made in the West az the radio was made in what was then Russian controlled Czechoslovakia. Do how well they hold up over time is not do well known.

@@MrsG7swr i have several 'east european' radios and apart from leaky waxy paper dielectric caps, the other components were perfectly ok (one has bad ht electrolytics, i havent got round to changing them yet)