Man your the only person in the world other than myself I'd let work on my bmw your a perfectionist and I love it very very very helpful for me I'm doing it with you step by step. I'm a newbie when it comes to working on engines but I can tell you get your shit done and you get it done right. As well as doing it really well! I hope your proud of yourself there's not many people out there that take as much pride as people like you in there work honestly a amazing video!

There are several videos and books explaining this procedure, but your attention to detail is what makes this video the best one hands down. Outstanding job!..Thank you so much. I'm a fan!

The magnet/welder rod technique is Trick! Superb video. Wonderful details like cleaning the vanos port on the intake cam shaft, vacuum filling the lifters and importantly waiting to turn back to TDC depending on ambient temperature. Thank you!

You are a very good instructor. You could have your own motor school. Your instructions are very clear and each step can be followed easily. All the way from and American living in Japan. I have to go check out your website now.

I decided that I'd comment on your tutorial. It's excellent and very informative. I viewed this particular vid, numerous times due to my exhaust camshaft and A6 bearing cap, both snapped in two pieces. My father, also, a true mechanic (like yourself) wasn't around to hold my hand this time. He can only supervise via text/cell phone. So, with that, I absorbed as much as I could from here. And succeeded. That was two months ago. I commend you on how knowledgeable you have been in your break downs. My father taught me unorthodox techniques. Such as, double-wrenching for torque/leverage. But Iyou, Sir, kuddo's on the earth magnets technique...really innovative and AWESOME!! I can't thank you enough.

Best "how-to" E36 videos around with great detail and explanation clarity. I have watched all of your videos & have subscribed for future videos! Props*

Definitely one of the best camshaft instructions on KZfaq.

i love you tip on priming the new lifters using vac pump

If you need to replace valve stem seals, start by this video. Then go I continue with your video about the seals replacement. They never explain how to remove the stuff before accessing the valve springs. Or they do it with timing belt engines. Excellent video

Your a really excellent mechanic clean, organized, and alot of pride in your work .....good job

Thanks so much for posting this video. It was very helpful on my project.

Thanks for the tips. I like how you use the magnets to prevent the lifer from falling out. I will use that technique. Thanks again!

Thank you for your detailed explanation. I have an E39 with an M52 engine. Next year I hope I'll get to build my garage so I'll be able to some more serious jobs on my car then what I can do today. I plan a vanos revival with the Beisan kit :) I'm looking forward to your next video!

Wow this is a lot more work than I expected xD

You are awesome Sauce thank you for your time and videos are very informative

I relly like the vacuum pump and lifter trick great tutorial man 🖒

super clean motor, you are a good mechanic!

Awesome video! Very informative, thanks!

Great video. Attention to detail. Thank you for sharing

Very proper video with great explanation.

great work. thx for sharing was nice advise for my 528i cam shift

Phillip, I use a Harbor Freight 1/4" air ratchet for the small hardware and a Milwaukee 3/8" ratchet for the larger hardware. My original 1/4 air ratchet was giving me some trouble so I gave Harbor Freight a try and so far its been holding up to a lot of abuse. Milwaukee and Snap On have been my favorite but as much wrenching as I do I eventually ware out any brand tool.

Nice tutorial, very infromative!

James, Yes it's the same procedure although you will find that your camshaft sprockets are not going to be in the same spot as they originally were with the M50 cams. The S50 cams have a different overlap setup so make sure to use the camshaft locking blocks to time the S50 cams and not a straight edge which some people use for the M50 stock cams to save money. Thanks

This guy is first and goal. the truth

your videos have helped me a ton I currently have an m50 with bad head gasket and an s52 with the same problem. watched your videos a ton and tore the m50 down. As soon as the head comes back from the machine shop I need to torque it back on and it would help if you could do a video on replacing the locating dowels and the torque procedure for head bolts or even head studs

after watching your video i can see why you have so many views. excellent

DylanBB18,Each performance cam manufacture will list a specific spring they want to be used with their camshafts. Mainly because Performance cams require stiffer springs that won't coil bind with the higher lifts. You can run a M3 camshaft with the stock springs but your springs are tired with 170,000 miles on them. You may experience valve float @ 6000 RPM or less. I don't have a video for the springs but you will need shop air, spark plug hole adapter & spring compressor plate to change them.

dude you're awesome. Thanks for the video you ROCK!!!

thank you for all the help

Dope video man!

Thanks for your videos!

Good job...can't see how people watch and thumbs down on a vid-manual that you would have to sit down to read in spec details...that's crazy

Cosmin Rotaru, Continued.. So to answer your question the safest way would be to tie the string off to the car so it keeps tension on the chain at all times (wheel spoke works good). If the chain skips a tooth there is no damage that can occur while rotating the engine back to Top Dead Center because the Exhaust sprocket is not secured to the cam yet. I know this is a bit of a long post but I wanted to express as much info about this subject since it's a great question you asked. Thanks M.B.S.

Excellent job man! I've learned a ton of info. I do have a question. I just pulled out my cams from M54 and there is a decent amount of small metal pieces especially on the cam holding "ears" and cam has groves were it sits on housing. As for cam lobes the are almost mint. And also there are noticeable scratches on the lifter outer surface, all of them. Any ideas were I got this metal from? 180K on dash and about 160 an average compression.

Amazing job,may I ask a question that I can't figure with my m50.. I have marvels in can sound going up hill or certain revs in any gear,doesn't happen revving it stationary just under slight load? Thanks again for sharing

Josh Blankeship, Mainly checking piston to valve clearance and coil bind on the springs. Aftermarket cams may even require a higher spring rate. The camshaft manufacture should be able to point you in the right direction.

SunsetWingman, I wish it was that easy but the cam trays have a ridge that prevents the lifters from being removed from the top.

If you are not reusing the cams you can loosen each bearing cap nut a 1/4 turn to release the cam. There is a chance of camshaft breakage using this method. Good luck with your project thanks, M.B.S.

absolutely love it. was really looking forward to using your magnet technique but learned that at no time ever should there be a magnet near a lifter as it magnetizes the lifter just enough that it will hold on to magnetic debris... just a thought.... I learned this from my local machine shop, it is my understanding that he was qouting directly from some sort of automotive engineers association of some sort. just my 2 cents. thanks you for your efforts

ThIs video is very helpful.

I saw how you used the vacuum pump to preload the lifters. I had to replace my cylinder head and I am using the same lifters as before. Would I need to preload them? - Thanks.

Great video. I'm looking for info on the magnets.Does anyone know the spec or size needed to remove lifters?

Hello , your videos are great , very proper and clear! . I have a 1998 BMW 328i 6 cylinder, auto. I am at the part where you turn the camshaft to get the lobes lined up with the e7 cap, the camshaft is about a quarter turn away but its very tight feeling , and i dont want to break it ! any advice would be much appreciated ,thx

Wow this is really good I don't even own a e36 lol or a car hahah love to learn this stuff do

DaytonCarCare, the master link re-chain kits are not as reliable as the oem chains unless you are using a chain that requires a crimping tool. If replacing the with a factory fixed chain you will have to remove the lower timing case cover which includes removing the 300 ft lbs bolt that holds the lower sprocket to the crank, very involved job,need 3 foot breaker bar and crankshaft holding tool to loosen the main crank bolt. BMW tries to remove the case without removing cylinder head if possible

🙏🙏 greatly needed vid thx

just here to say that trick with the magnets on the lifters and the rod to hold them all up and attached to the cam is really damn clever. It's probably an old trick, but still

Great vid. Can a bad lifter cause no compression on a cylinder, forcing valve to stay open? I can push the lifter down with little effort, I hope I dont have to take the head off. I have an M54

Eugenio Cruz, if you have a manual transmission make sure its in neutral otherwise make sure your cams are back to top dead center with the timing blocks in before you rotate the crank back to top dead center.

Hello Mr Mybimmerspace ! Thank You so much , for your so many great video , information . I love it , Its verry informative . I have a question abaut my BMW . Litle by litle I vent true my BMW 528 i - 1998 cylinder head job . E39 The head is rebuilt - resurfaced , and installed . My question is - If the crankshaft allredy turn 16 degree back , like Your video say , and I vant to installing the camshaft , I start vith the exhaust first . Need to tighting camshaft , No # 1 cylinder , first lobes facing down ? Like later the intake camsaft istallation ? Of corse , later positioned turn both camsaft , opper lobes face up , close to 45 degree , face up each other , Installing - cam holder tools . Turn cranchsaft back to TDC . Thank You so much retired mercedes tecnition . Kalman

are you sure its not the other way around? I was told to loosen all the nuts incrementally to avoid damaging the camshaft. By taking off all the caps fully, one at a time,and leaving just one fully tight near one end, would you not be bending/leveraging the camshaft? The factory tool brings the cam up evenly, so I thought you would try to do the same loosening the cap nuts. Great vids, very informative, but I'd really like more info as to why you remove cams as in the video. thanks.

Cosmin Rotaru, it's rare but if it does skip a tooth on the lower crank sprocket the worse outcome would be that you would have to re-clock the exhaust sprocket after the engine is rotated back to Top Dead Center which I explained at the end of the video but for other reasons (building an engine from scratch) Another possibility is the Ex sprocket won't fit back on do to the chain hanging up on the lower sprocket. If that happens, whipping the chain will release it from the lower sprocket.

Very helpful

S Vi, Thanks! I have other videos containing a few other projects that are not finalized yet. Although I'm working on completing them.

hi bimmer when are going to upload more video? have you ever done a dual vanos job?

would this be the same on an e46? I will be doing my head gasket and this video would help out a lot.

Does the 11ftlb torque for the camshaft caps also apply to an m52 engine? Also, what happens if you wait longer to crank the engine after the required wait period for the camshaft? Is replacing the lifters necessary?

Just looking this over, if my hydraulic lifters goes I still have to do all of this just for one lifter going? Thanks for your time.

I'll be doing a .140 headgasket soon on my turbo e36 m3 project with stock s50 cams. Is it necessary to replace the lifters?

Hi! My engine got metal shavings inside the exhaust camshaft, ant the plastic plug in the front end was popped out. Do the exhaust camshaft also have oil orifices? Wonder how the shavings got in there...

Hey Dude, slightly change the subject, I've been told I can swap e36 m3 evo cams into my e36 323i (2.5) is this in your opinion true? I have a book 101 Performance Projects for your BMW 3 series 1982 - 2000. This book does in fact have a project that does this. Only the example given is an m50 e36 and not an m52. Now the book does not say the m52 can or cannot be modded. Also the book just swaps the cams straight out and has no other engine adjustments to facilitate the swap. Does this sound right to you? Can you point me to a resourse if you know of one, and can you either way tell me if I can buy some secondhand evo cams and swap them out? Thanks dude, love all your videos. I was able to without refering back to the video change out my front wheel bearings. I have only ever changed oil and filters before. So thanks man, saved me a tonne of cash. And I now have some awesome tools. Your vids are educational level quality. Please keep them comming. Cheers, Steve

awestphaol6, No, there is only one tdc pin lock on the flywheel for lobes facing each other. Sometimes it can feel like it locks in other positions but you need to confirm with tdc mark on the damper. Good luck, thanks

Can this be done exactly the same way on the exhaust cam, or is it different? Thanks, Shane

Did you use the Crank Lock Pin or is it enough to go by the OT marks ? thanks for that video and the passion !

MBS, thanks so much for your video. I'm in the process of pulling the head on a 95 E36 M3. This is awesome and super helpful. Quick Question. Who makes the two air ratchets you use in the video? I really like the paddle trigger on the ratchet at 8:40.

What should I do? I Massed up the timing on my s52, my cams don't line up the way they should at tdc. Thanks

Very nice video, again. One question, though: when you hang the chain by that string, how do you make sure it will not jump a tooth down there... somewhere? :)

Is this the same as a m52 engine for the camshaft section? It looks very similar. Also doing a vanos elimination does that make a difference?

Do you have any video on e36 head cylinder torque

m40/m43 is the same way to open and overhaul just like u did?

Brilliant!

FIrst I want to thank you for this AWESOME video. I was hell bent on s50 cams, now I know I can use s52 cams easiely too. Someone was speaking of springs. I am wondering if the hotter s52 cams (and treys) are safe to use in the m50 (as far as you have seen) or should I go back to s50 cams? I was thinking regrind at delta cams in tacoma any way.

Can You change one bearing cap without having to do the entire process again?

is it possible for the chain to come loose when it get drop like that? If it did, the head would need to come off and re-time the long block right??

How do you install new chains? Is there room to slide it through over the crank sprocket or would you need a chain breaker to pop out a link pin to get it in?

if camshafts at tdc without vanos and i rotate intake shaft backwords like you did on video what happens

mybimmerspace, will i run into any issues with the preload of s52 cams in a m52 motor with m52 cam trays?

I heard of stripped cam studs when torque to 11 ft lb. Did you ever had that issue? Is it possible to tighten those with lower torque? Thanks

if i wanted to upgrade my camshafts to performance cams, would i have to change the valve springs and lifters, only due to that it had 170,000 miles on it.? (high milege wise).....if so do you have a valve replacment video? car: e36 328i m52 engine.

mybimmerspace, my 99 M3 S52 blew a head gasket. I've replaced the head gasket and nearly had everything buttoned up. After doing a few final rotations, there are some resistance. The crank will turn smoothly at one point, but will require me to use a little more muscle when I continue to rotate the crank. Looking back on my memory log I missed a step with turning the sprockets clockwise to fit the vanos on... I went counterclockwise to fit it on, will this effect the timing. Please advise if you still check your comment. Thanks. All the best, [KIN].

im new to this. is this install the same for my s52

Would this be the same as my e92. I have a bad lifter tick and can not find anything on it

awesome....!!!!!!

It didn't come off the crank when you dropped it down the case? I know you have the string but looks like no tension on it.

Same procedure on the s52 cams?

why did you take the chain off the other cam sprocket when it wasnt the one getting removed?

If I decide to ever change the cams in my car, I am sure I would need new bearings since it is a different style camshaft. Is it really important to hold the cam down since it would be discarded anyway?

video highlights the real importance of clean fresh eng oil

how do you retime the camshaft that was removed?

What steps would be different for aftermarket cams?

so yes i will run into issues running s52 or schrick cams in an m52 engine with m52 cam trays? what kind of issues will I run into.

Yes, It's the same hollow cam with bigger lift and duration

hey im wanting to swap my m50 cams with s50 cams will this method work?

Hey Man I really like your videos. They are actually really helpful, thanks. I have a problem with my 323i E46 M52 1999 4door with 360,000 Km's on it (a shit tone). A loud knocking comes once per turn from somewhere under the valve cover. sounds like is coming from 1,2 or 3 on the camshaft side, not sure. I poped the valve cover off and all cams look ok. So like an idiot, I got myself a wrench and turned the intake camshaft slightly to see a little better. what a dumb idea I know. well I put everything together with new cover gasket, I get a camshaft position circuit A code. The car start and revs good. took it for a spin but have no power AT ALL! And a lot of sound comes out of the intake as if the engine was firing with open intake valves. your thoughts?

Great video, but when you were slowly taking off that 2nd E cam bearing cap, did you know that you don't have to make the socket wrench ratchet back after you turn it? That bothered me so much lol

Hello. So i have been doing a head rebuild on my 1993 325i and i am trying to get the crank back to TDC but it is stuck or something. I removed the lock pin. Im not to surre whats wrong. Have any advice?

So it takes longer if I am swapping cams, but I wont damage the bearings or caps? That is still better tahan buying the camshaft hold down tool!

Yea actually I used a 25" breaker with the same length cheater bar over it to get it off and torque on. Had to remove the crank bolt too, on a 400E Mercedes V8 to get access to replace the water pump. Fortunately there is a trick to lock the flywheel front moving. It doesn't have a locking hole like the BMW. You need a special tool to lock the flywheel.

THANKS, i really liked the video. From here u can remove valve seals right?