Haha thanks man. Yea, it can be done. Dont let them try to sell you a $9000 roof. Haha

Haha. Yea, I’ve had to do that before….but honestly I couldn’t say it helped enough to justify doing it in my home garage with my wood cabinets nearby…..at the level of quality I hold myself to, I’m going to be wet sanding and buffing no matter what. Yes, wax or ceramic coating will definitely help preserve this finish. Wax is SOOOOOO overlooked in the retail automotive world. So few people keep up with it. Keeps me in business though. Haha

@@TaySprays Thanks for reply! I've been a LONG time believer in wax, yes it needs to be repeated several X per yr. Short story--as welding contractor for any industry U can think of, back in the '80's I had a periodic gig at a soda ash plant in E. Cali. It's a common industrial basic compound, mildly caustic. The OLD plant located in the desert was entirely covered in soda ash dust, including my custom welding rig after a week or two. Before I left for that few week stint of 12 hr shifts I did a last minute waxing of rig but only got *half done* before I had to hit the road, better half than none, right? Well it rained lightly on that job, very rare thing there, just enough to wet the soda ash dust and cause streaks down the side of truck. The side that wasn't waxed was *etched by the caustic water,* my shiny paint job dulled in streaks, painted lettering on door noticeably lightened and dulled in stripes. The *waxed side was completely undamaged!* Still bright and shiny. That was a telling TEST. :D)

@@TaySprays Have 2011, E92-M3, manual, comp., carbon roof naturally, so this is important to me! Love that car, will be extra diligent about keeping the roof waxed from now on. (or otherwise coated) Pretty good about wax anyway but this drives it home, no pun intended.

Thanks man! 💪🏼

Thanks man. I hope you have a great weekend!

Yea man. Aesthetically, I feel the carbon roof makes the biggest statement for these cars….apart from the aggressive front bumpers. They were one of the first manufacturers to “mainstream” that type of carbon fiber application. Round about way of saying…..yes, try to restore it and keep it beautiful. Haha let me know if I can help in any way.

@@TaySprays thank you sir. I have photos of the car on the showroom. It sure looked fantastic back then. The top actually still looks pretty good being garaged but it does have some failures appearing. I wasn’t sure what the top coat product was. I was guessing an epoxy product. I was happy to see it was a good clearcoat

@@TaySprays you can see it on my page here

Nice. Personally, I like the BRIGHT looking carbon. It looks crisp and shows the authenticity the most when the sun hits it…..but I get the aesthetic uniformity. As long as the client is happy….thats all that matters. 💪🏼

Thanks bud! Hope you’re having a great weekend! 💪🏼

Anything between 120-180 will work to trip the old stuff. Between coats you could do 320-800. If you use 320, you should put more layers of clear. If you use 800 2 coats will be fine.

Ok wow….havent seen an i3 yet, but the process should be the same nonetheless. I would definitely research and vet the shop first. I have been working with carbon fiber since I started in the automotive industry 18 years ago. It’s not something I would just hand over to anyone. A good shop, with experience is going to charge quite a bit. The lowest I’ve personally seen for just an m3 was $2450. Feel free to email me if you have any further questions. Taysprays@gmail.com

Thank you!

Yea, I’ve seen that as well. It’s a case by case scenario. Not all of them have delaminated enough for that to work. However, If you have the volume of air to try and blow off the delaminated areas I would suggest trying that first, for sure. I didn’t have a big enough compressor to generate enough volume for that to work at the time. That problem has now been resolved. Haha Keep me posted on how it goes, and if that method worked for your project.

Hey. I use Spies 8035 clearcoat for all my jobs. They warranty it up to 10 years I think. It’s REALLY good stuff…..expensive though.

Honestly, I do the second application because that’s how I do it on the exotic cars. It’s labeled as “PIANO FINISH” for Aston Martin, Bentley, McClaren, etc…However, it also adds an extra layer of UV protection from the sun. You would be “ok” with just a single application of clear, it just doesn’t meet my aesthetic and quality standard for the product I provide to customers.

@@TaySprays that’s good to know. Thank you very much!

That car belongs to an older gentleman. So I’m sure the SLAMMED style may be a bit challenging for him. 🤭

Hey bud. Sorry to hear about your roof. Shoot me and email with a few pics, close up to the damage and far away to see context. Taysprays@gmail.com

Very sorry for the late reply. Almost every one of these cars I’ve done has also had a degrading rear seal, and front seal. Most people say they can replace them separately from the glass. I personally have not done a seal replacement. Typically I take a precision razor and cut it flush to the top edge of the glass. The glass is urethaned in so I think that seal is for wind noise mitigation. Correct me if I’m wrong.

@@TaySprays Following up. On the E63 M6, the rear seal replacement does require rear glass removal. I agree that cutting the exposed portion of the seal has limited to no negative affects. The front seal is easily replaced as it slips onto and straddles the edge of the windshield all around.

The purpose of a resin application here would be to prevent “mapping” or a visible outline of the weave over time from thermodynamic expansion and contraction (heating and cooling of the carbon). While it’s an added protection, I don’t see that one way is better than the other. From my experience, I haven’t seen that epoxy adds a superior adhesion as opposed to clearcoat. I use 2 applications of 2-3 coats of clearcoat to eliminate the possibility of the mapping issue. However, you COULD do a resin application followed up with clearcoat and achieve the same results. I think it’s personal preference.

@@TaySprays okay. I’m going to be doing the way you did here. Wish me luck

No luck needed. Just take your time and be thorough. Email me pics of your finished product, I’d love to see how it comes out.

An adequate amount for the labor and materials involved.

There’s a few different steps, and multiple tools. I start off using a 1000 grit sanding stone. From there I progress to 2000 grit wet sand paper by hand, then finish the sanding process with 3000 grit on a da sander. Then polish back to perfection. 👌

Hey Luis I’m in south Florida (ft Lauderdale area). Shoot me an email at TAYSPRAYS@gmail.com and we can go over what your car needs.