this guy is the best i instructions . he save me more than 1000 dollars. i did my the only thing different i bought the part . but the was one most easy lol . thank you very much the world need more people like you. i appreciated

I really appreciate your video thank you so much !!! Just got this job done I did so many things while I was at it like change the gaskets for the accumulator , changed the spark plugs , Pcv valve , oil change fuel injector gaskets , & new coolant . The only thing about this job is the air that gets in the cooling system it is very important to purge it correctly or suffer overheating your engine . Luckily I was close to Range Rover shop who did it for $ 65.00 & I was off . I feel like a certified BMW mechanic 😂. The mechanic said I probably saved around $ 4,500.00 with what I did 💰 Thank again !!

Excellent video; great close-up camera shots and follow-along instructions very helpful to those of us tackling this job. Thanks so much for posting it David.

Good stuff David. I just bought a 97 740i and have already done a few things but will be doing most of the work on it myself. Thanks for making your videos detailed and informational. It makes it that much easier when having to diy

I just want to thank you very much for posting these videos. It helps out a lot.

Thank you david very much for the video and the tips! I need to do this job and when i found they dont sell the gasket I was frustrated that I have to pay 80 bucks plus for that pan. I thought to make my own gasket but only now that I watched this Ive got the reassurance and confidance to do so. Ive watced your videos before and you are the best thank you.

Subscribed for future reference! This is one of the best DIY video I've seen; your step-by-step descriptions along with explanations were extremely informative and helpful for me. When you have a chance on doing the timing chain guide / VANOS please make a DIY for that too. You’re THE MAN!

Thank you for a very well mannered and detailed instruction. Your approach is clear and distinct with little to no confusion for anyone with general experience with the M62 engine.

David, I was able to complete this job on my 540i this weekend. It took much longer than I anticipated but the valley pan leak is gone! I also replaced all the heater hoses, the CCV valve and a couple of other hoses that looked iffy. I am confident it was done well and found it quite satisfying to do on my own. I'm sure I saved a lot of money too. Your how-to video was a great reference and most helpful. Thank you for taking the time to make it.

Great video man. Doing exact same repair on my M62 and I have to say this is exactly what I needed. Too bad I replace coolant transfer pipe just about less than 2 years ago and I have same problem already so this time I'm doing it myself. Again, great video

Thank you very much for the quick reply and advice Sir! You have given me hope as I'm working on my car this morning! I'll keep you posted with the outcome if you don't mind. Enjoy your day!

Very good video reference as the steps to take for this job IMO. This saved me tones of money on my e34 540i/6speed and I couldn’t be happier not having to top off my coolant tank every week. Thanks for the video and explanation. The pull method from the injectors works like a charm, don’t know what the problem was for other people, but I’ve pulled them off at least 6 times for maintenance checks without any problems at all. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge

This is a FANTASTIC video! Thank you very much. I've removed the fuel injector clip from my E36 and the M62TU planned on being even more of a PITA. The 'trick' with using silicone for the gasket is perfect for people that do not like going to the stealer and the savings will pay for hoses, coolant, etc. I'll likely throughly clean the intake manifold, etc. Your video saves so much time (more time for cleaning).

Thanks for the video! Very informative, you can def tell how quick and efficient you move around a motor.

David- I'll be doing Vanos, timing chains/guides/tensioners, and valley pan at once- looks like ill replace those during that time- Thank you for the response- love the trick for the injectors and the water pump! Thanks again- great work!

Fantastic video mate, very informative and clear. Thank You!

Thanks for starting from the beginning. All other posts start with so much disassembled already.

superior video sir. I did this last year with your video and bimmerforums. since then i've subscribed and i must say that you have a nice merc.

Ok, just a heads up to everyone on here watching this video and using it as a reference. I am currently doing this repair as we speak. David's simple "pull" method of the injector electrical boxes seems nice, easy, painless and problem free, however it's not. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS!!! I JUST broke not 1, but "5" of the 8 Injector harnesses out of the boxes in which they mount on my E39 5 Series. 2 of those 5 ripped a wire clean out of the harness itself leaving 1 of the 2 wires per harness broken/ripped from the little connector inside. I guess now ill be doing some additional wiring to get them to work again. Not the end of the world, but be careful. Other than that, a GREAT video and really is a great reference tool. David, if you have any additional tips for me along the way, I'd greatly appreciate it, Thanks!

1st off...thanks to David for this video...I spared using many explicatives while tearing apart my car :) My fear of commitment to really pulling on the junction box led me to try the clip approach. So I took a pick and tugged on the front 3 on each side. They don't need to come all of the way off...just pull one side off slightly. Some gentle tugging after that was all that was needed to pull the boxes off. Good luck...

Great tips! Certainly learned a lot from this video.

Whaooo, this was an amazing video, hats down to you for sharing such a wonderful video with us.

Your are welcome. I really post these to help everyone save some money or show what the shop has to go through when they charge all that lobor.

man thank you so much bro... i love this car and did not wanna sell it... i still have the car. Thank you

Replacing the knock sensors is a very involved job. you must do everything in this video except replace the valley pan. In addition to the knock sensors, the intake manifold gaskets are a good candidate for replacement. Hopefully you have the luxury of downtime and can take the car apart and then order all the parts you need. Depending on the age you should consider replacing the water pump, thermostat, all of the hoses, and rear intake manifold cover.

Thank you, I replaced my BMW E38 with an MB S430. Both have a 4.4L engine and the newer MB has 30 more horses. I like buying used luxury cars because they devaluate and are inexpensive to buy. Since I can do most of the work myself, ownership costs are just parts no labor costs.

On the driver's side bottom that is the metal tube to the front of the engine - oil vapor return. On the driver's side top is the power brake vacuum hose. The small stem driver's side top is plugged or left open. I have left that one open with no issues. On the passenger's side top is the fuel regulator vacuum pot on the fuel rail.

You are welcome. You are why I make these videos. I really like to help and share what I have learned. BMWs are actually very easy to work on. Too bad they need so much attention all of the time. Most of the work is gaining access to the part. Good luck, take your time, and enjoy learning about your car.

I agree. They will not come off .When you put everything back together without the clips they will work fine and be much easier to remove the next time. I was only able to clean up the engine and intake manifold so much. Unless you have a very large tank, do expect factory new cleanliness.

To all wishing to know what torque spec to use, I used 10 nm and have to do the job again because it lasted about 10 miles. (A mile per nm, not bad........... Ok, so that was a bad joke). So please do look up a reliable source for torque specs. Thank you again David for the video, the second time around was a lot less time consuming and when ever I came to a dead end I referenced your videdo

You are right they are very tricky. They come from the factory with tamperproof clamps so the initial removal is tough. Replace them with regular ones afterward. They are usually stuck to the rail so removal is either cut and replace or push, do not pull. I do not think they will come off by pulling.. A tool, any tool will do but pushing them off is really the only way.

I just replaced my valve cover gaskets and tried your method of removing the box and fuel injector connectors. The passenger side worked perfect, when I pulled the drivers side three of the mounting tabs broke off one side of the box where the plugs snap into the bottom of the box. it was a bear getting the rear one lined up when reassembling.

Great vid ☺ Thanks for the tips.

after doing this job twice due to the factory gasket being very difficult to replicate in refrence to amount used, I ended up just buying a new valley pan cover, I got it for about $75 shipped on ebay, brand new oem bmw. I wish id done that in the first place, would have saved a lot of money on wasted coolant and silicone. I definitely agree with removing the water manifold, be sure that the O-rings inside each hole of the water manifold are still good, I was also leaking from the seal at the water manifold from the large tube.

As long as the gasket maker ia hi-temp you will be fine. The setup is important. You must let the gasket material setup on the part for four hours and then set up in the car over night. Attach the part and hand tighten then let it sit. Finish tightening after 12 -24 hours. As far as leaking pipes, first you can replace all four o-rings or look to see if it in the front or the back and go from there.

The torx screws are factory. I replace them with socket head cap screws. To remove one that is stripped I have attached vise grips to the head and broken them loose. Some are amazingly tight. there is no lock-tight one them they are just very tight sometimes

What a great vid; This is my next project so I'll have the laptop right next to the car. Feel free to upload more DIY vids for the e38 as I'm sure youll have plenty of viewers.

Disconnecting the lines is the tough part. From the factory there are anti-tamper clamps that are difficult to loosen. Once you get those clamps loose the hose is usually stuck to the rail. The hose must be pushed off. Some pulling but mostly pushing. Once the hoses are off, disconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Disconnect the 8 electrical connections. Remove the five nuts holding the rail to the intake. Two on each side one in the front. The rail is free.

Not for the valley pan but I have had to go back and redo a water pump job because of a leaking pipe. I damaged the o-ring on assembly. The silcone is tricky. Apply a bead, let that set for four hours. Set the part in place and hand tighten or just start the bolts and let it sit overnight or 12 hours, then torque everything down. I use the Red Hi-temp for the valley pan. You will be really shocked when you see that teeny tiny $80 bead of silicone around the valley pan.

I did replace all four o-rings on the pipes when I did the timing couple a weeks ago. Well new parts are on the way by Friday. Hoses, valley pan and gaskets (for the rear behind the intake manifold).

Hello, is the gasket maker called right stuff good enough to be used to make the valley pan gasket? Thanks.

I removed the clips from the fuel injectors one at a time until I replaced the OEM injectors with aftermarket. It was then when I saw that the back side of the aftermarket injectors were rounded. If you remove the clips one at a time, with a pick, do not worry about losing them, they will not fly off. This video is about any M62 engine including the M62TU. Investing in a Bentley manual is also worth the money.

you are the man

I have done this job four times and I have had no issues. The two important details are to cover the contact areas well, but not too thick and allow 24 or more hours after assembly for the silicone to set up. If it does leak the removed should show that an area was not covered. I know that because I helped someone after they did tried this and one corner was not sealed.

If you ran hot the odds are good, otherwise there are the tubes, (M62 & N62) the accumulator, 4 or 5 heater hoses, & aux water pump, anyone of which could drip and run down the bell housing. The weep hole from the top of the engine directs the flow onto the fly wheel so the drip from the valley pan gasket leak would be from inside the bell housing out the hole in the bottom not on the oustside of the bell housing which is a hose leak..

Thanks for the video- great job- cant wait to see your others!!! If i'm seeing oil where you see coolant what could cause this? Thanks again!!

Great video!

You are welcome.

Permatex® High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket

I wonder if you could get a longer lasting seal by ditching the dust cover and making up a 1/4"-3/8" aluminum of stainless plate to lay on top of it, making the whole perimeter where it bolts down that much more rigid.

I only use petroleum jelly and I only use vaseline petroleum jelly. There is a big differnce between the vaseline brand and generic. I only use vaseline petroleum jelly on the water pump gasket to hold it in place as a temporary assembly aid. Otherwise I do not use lubricants anywhere in assembly or maintenance.

Hello. I have a 98 740il. It has a water leak thats dripping off of the bell housing like you stated in the vid. What are the odds of it being the valley pan gasket or the tubes that are coming from the back of the water pump? I hear the N62 engine have that problem. Not sure if the M62 could have that problem also? Thanks;)

As long as the material can hold back pressurized hot water. Look for anything that tells you the material is ok for 230 degrees.

You're great!

I just did my timing and replace all gasket including the valley pan and did it the way you suggested using gasket maker but now it leaking all over inside the intake manifold. I guess I didn't do something right. I'm planning to order a valley pan with the new gasket on it. I followed your instructions but mus have missed something. Taking a part AGAIN this weekend to investigate.

good video thanks

Well, I have learned that it pays to spend that little extra and replace items when they are so easy to access but, this job can be done for labor and the cost of a tube of Hi-Temp sealant. You can reuse the intake gaskets. However I recommend the intake manifold gaskets 11-61-1-433-328 x4 and the Intake manifold cover 11-61-7-501-563 = $130 be replaced.

Great tutorial Sir. How has the silicon under the pan held up so far?

You are Welcome

When u removed the accumulator, could it be put back with gasket maker or i need to buy a gasket? And the seals/o rings for the tubes are those dealer items? Thanks again for your help;)

I'm doing a valve cover gasket on both sides for a 2001 X5 4.4 - WARNING - the pull and yank method had too much resistance.....so I backed off from using any more strength and played 'safer than sorry' hand by spending time with those damn little clips.

Onr time I was lazy, the gasket stuck to the engine block, space for scraping is limited, so and I just put it back and there were no leaks. Another time I had the gaskets, so I used the new gaskets dry and there were no leaks. Of course I recommend using new gaskets, they are so inexpensive.

i tried the junction box grab-n-yank when i did my valve cover gasket job but that sucker was STUCK on there, i had to use a pick to move the clips out of the way with decent lighting and a proper 90 degree pick it's pretty easy to get all those clips

Good point. I might as well do it right and do it once. What about the o-rings on the metal tubes, should I need to replace those as well? Also, did you need to cut any wires to move the wiring harness out of the way, or does everything unclip? (I have seen that some people cut a few wires in the ignition coil wiring box)

Well, I do not know if I will see this car anymore. When I sold it I told the buyer I would work on it for him but lately he has not wanted to wait unitl I had some free time. Also this E38 had a pre VANOS M62. I had only resealed the engine, i.e., removed the engine front covers. So, I doubt I'll have any more BMW work to post. My current vedios are on Jeep Grand Cherokees, Mercedes S-Class, and a Volvo S80. There is very little repair work to show. Just Mods and retrofits.

Excellent Video. Could you list the part number for 4 big hoses behind accumulate at 14.01 min in the video? If possible, I like to know how the coolant circulate in the M62 engine? Basically I try to locate hottest coolant hose at back of accumulate. Thanks.

HA! I did this entire job with a BMW new valley pan gasket and it leaked within 30 days all over again. He's right. Just use the old one and clean it, then apply your own new bead of silicone and youll never have to worry about it again. I learned the hard way and curse every time i have to add a quart of coolant. Still haven't gotten to it yet. I took advice from a mechanic friend about never using rtv silicone and doing the "job right" and it has cost me headaches ever since. On a 530 i have i applied rtv grey on various gaskets and never had a problem or had to revisit a job.

Great video! I am planning on replacing the Valley pan gasket this weekend and was about to order it, and glad I didn't! Are there any parts that I have to order to do this job? I know you say the OSV, but is that recommended since the manifold is already out, or is that absolutely necessary since it was removed? Is it possible to do this job without buying anything other than hi temp sealant? thanks again!

The cam shaft covers and front engine cover's gaskets become hard over time and leak. This is common and the engine needs to be resealed every once in a while. Most people wait until the spark plug wells fill up with oil.

The idle control valve? that is attached with a band that is difficult to install. to remove I just pushed down on one of the tabs in the back, I have broken that rubber tab off when I was in a hurry.

Great time saving trick to just yank off the black E-box from the fuel injectors rather than trying to use a pick to dislodge the clips. Where did you learn this? Also, some folks are recommending lubing the clips/injectors with Tri-Flow or other lubricant to make it slip off a little easier and reduce the chance of breaking the plastic box. Any idea if this would be beneficial? Thanks.

Hi David, Thank you for the informative video. By chance do you remember your torque wrench settings you used to tighten for both the valley pan and intake manifold bolts? Thanks

I have a 2003 BMW X5 4.4 you mentioned to replace the oil separator but when I looked the part up online it did not look like the one you did? How do you push the metal tube onto the oil separator when the intake manifold sits on top of it? Also when Installing the intake manifold couldn't you put the rubber gaskets on the engine block first instead of the manifold that way there would be less chance of the rubber gaskets falling off? I would really appreciate your help.

I Have a 2001 e39 540i/6 and the pipe that connects to the intake is different than the one in this video.

Do you put any sealer on those pipes beside the o-rings?

HI David, This is an excellent video. Just before i go putting hands on mine, and because the leak is minimal, I need to ask you if any of the coolant leak solutions in the market (Alumseal, radiator sealers) would work fixing this gasket, so I don't have to do all the work.

Well I took it apart , the intake manifold, and see coolant were the valley pan is. But how do you know if its one of pipes are leaking? I used black high-temp gasket maker for the valley pan. Not the right one to use on the valley pan? Should I have used RTV instead?

Did you get as much dirt in your intake valves as I did? The amount of oily sand under my intake manifold was crazy.

incidentally, if you take the radiator out you can then step inside the well between the motor and the front. This makes it so much easier on the back. You can reach everything.

The front of the tube should be OK. you are sliding the tube forward and will not see the front o-ring. A new o-ring will be on the rear cover for the tube to slide onto. The only wire to cut - if you want to flip the whole harness out of the way - is the wire to the alternator. I was never able to disconnect it at the alternator without dropping the alternator which is a real pain to do for this job. The throttle position connector shares a like connector so mark that one.

Can you tell me if this would be the same procedure on the E39? Does the 4.4 V8 E39 have a valley pan or is it a tube? The only part that concerns me is how you reccommend removal from the fuel injectors....scary stuff if they don't release.

@prokity Hi I am currently in the process of this repair, what do you have your TQ wrench set to for the intake manifold bolts? thanks!

Dave I have a 98 750il any advice on how to replace the upper oil pan

I do not know what you mean, the fuel lines have anti tamper heads that are a pain to remove.

unbelieveable thank you so much if you ever need to know any plumbing tricks hit me up,,, except i forgot hose to oil seperator and it tore off or was always totally broken still going to replace valley pan really unsure about silicone or buy gasket.. how much pressure builds up in there

What kind of silicone did you use?

Great vid David thanks so much. I just put my valley pan back on my E39 with the silcone attemept at a gasket, hope it seals. I also managed the accumulator (someone called this the water manifold?) trick to remove the metal tubing and it worked like a charm..do I have to seal this thing when putting it back in place or can I just clean it up and re-bolt it? Any info. is greatly appreciated, thanks all!!

oh lawd yea my carr just started too leak coolant i have ah 540i 97 and Mon mi hope i dnt have too dweet too my car hope its ah leak inna one ah the lines smh any help cause its dripping in di front bottom uder near di oil pan and its dripping off ah the belts

how do u get those pesky clips of the hoses that are in the way that are connected to the front and back parts of the intake manifold?

I thought this was going to be a big project ( I have to replace my valley pan gasket as well as the valve cover gaskets). How long did the whole procedure take?

Hi David i removed my transmission on my 740i I saw coolant residue on back on my fly wheel what's the best cleaner to use so I don't harm anything

how did u get that air intake connector thing that connects to the front of manifold over the throttle body?

Great video sir. How is the RTV holding? I just dod this and tried reusing the stupid factort gasket string garbage and it pushed out and only after I had the entire engine back together did I find that out... FML. Well i got it all back apart in about an hour and Im going youre route by scrapping the string and going with my own RTV as you did. At least I got it running and my timing job os good after new guides and all that mess.

thats right, jump right in and get it done lol

Thank you David but I must be blind. will look in the Bentley again and thanks again for the informative video

Hi, I have a 745i and its leaking from the valley pan , I'm imagining the gasket...its vert similar correct ?

how did you clean up the area?

at 4:52 where do those vacuum hoses plug into on top of the osv? i can't remember please help clear that up for me thanks

The original OEM injectors have more of a lip on them for the clip to hold. There is no magic, a frim grip and pull. the box comes right off. If you perfer the Bentley Service Manual method then unhook them with a pick. They will not fly off. I just have taken them off so many times that I am confortable with my method.

In this weekend i will do this job....unfurtunetli i already ordered from BMW a valey pan.......but the real big job is that i must change the heater core in the dash....😊😊🤪🤪 ....wish my luck 😋😋😋😋