Hi Nigel, glad to have been of help, like many things, yes it's 'easy' when you know what you're doing but before then it can be rather daunting. Once you're happy changing pad's before you know it, you'll be doing an oil change (see one of my other video's) and other 'basic' maintenance. Owning a set of tools is always useful and is like Pringles "Once you pop.... you can't stop".

Hi Johan, good tips there. Alway's good to hear of others tips. Thank you for watching and sharing your tips.

Hi Roscoe, thanks for watching and I'm glad it helped you out.

I've got a GSA and I tried without removing the wheel, and the dish of the spokes doesn't give enough room to lift the calliper clear of the disc. Fortunately the wheel is really easy to get off and back on again, no spacers constantly falling off like a lot of chain driven bikes.

Absolutely, it's 'belt and braces'. Copper grease withstands higher temperatures and also aids removing the bolts next time, but you are correct, torque to correct setting every time.

Hi Ted, It's not as big a job as some mechanic's/dealers would have you believe! I've found that some pad manufacturers do have 'tinfoil' on the outside. Personally, if a bike has Brembo's brakes, I always use Brembo pads. If not, my choice is EBC Sintered pads, HH grade either all round or HH on the front and GG on the rear. HH pads give greater friction ideal for modern high performance bikes or track use, but can take time to bed in and warm up. GG grade is a softer compound and is ideal for general day to day use. Being softer, they bed in to warn brake discs quicker too.

@Bicester Bob Thanks Bob great information regards Ted.

Hi, thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I'm not a trained motorcycle technician, but I've a few questions regarding your rear brake situation; 1. Are the pads new? 2. Does this happen all the time or only when the brakes are hot? 3. Have you checked the rear brake fluid level/hoses/reservoir? Firstly, I'd disassemble the brake caliper and give it a good clean. If after reassembly it continues to happen check the hose's and the 'rod' that connects the pedal to the reservoir. At this point if there's no obvious problems, I'd contact a trusted garage as changing pads and cleaning the piston's is easy, but if the brake's not working as it should, I'd get professional advice.

@@robchisholm72 Thank you so much. I will address as suggested.

Hi ES, thanks for watching & commenting. I was taught that brake piston's function best 'dry', if any lubricant were needed, I'd likely use a graphite grease which won't run unlike dot4 & I don't want dot4 or any lubricant on my brake pads. Thanks, after doing this a few times in the past, I realised I could save a great deal of time & effort by not removing the rear wheel. If needed, then yes I'd preload the toothbrush with some brake cleaner. These video's are guides and I'm sharing the way I do it, there are other ways of achieving the same results.

@@robchisholm72 I watched your video in stages and did my own brake pad swap on my 1250GSA. Thanks for teaching me with your video. My 1250 had a metal clip attached to the farther pad, so I kept the clip in with the new one, too. Not sure if I needed to, but I took the bike out and tested the brakes, they work normally.

Hi Ashley, sorry for the delay in replying I was away with work. No, I don't use the same backing plate as my replacement pads come mounted on new plates.

I came here looking for the same thing. I don't think Bob's pads were the oem ones with the ptfe/stainless steel backing plate. By plates I think Bob means the backing metal bonded on. I fitted the backing plate with Ferodo replacements and had awful problems. Binding, overheating and inside pad worn out after 3,500 miles. I now realise that the disc is shot too. I shouldn't have fitted the backing plate methinks. Now I have Brembo pads and they are thinner and evidently the backing plate IS needed!!!!

I know it's two years later, but I had the same question, one of my old rear pads (the right hand pad looking forward) had a tin packing plate with a soft shim between it and the pad. I only discovered it after I had finished fitting the new pads and tightening everything up, Arggh! Anyway I removed the new pad again and fitted the backing plate. It did make the rear pads very tight and I did have the symptom that the piston side pad was more worn on the old pads. Both the pads I removed and the new pads are Brermbo, apparently OEM equivalent. Frustratingly in a few other videos on YT, nobody mentions the backing plate, though at least in one of those videos, the backing plate is clearly visible as the poster fits the new pad. My bike is a 2021 Rallye TE. does anyone know if this backing plate is original on the 1250 GS in general? I am having difficulty finding any mention of it anywhere and wonder if I should ditch it or keep it?

Hi Gabor, certainly. Your bike is the same model (K50) as mine. I got my rear brake pads from these guys here in the UK; www.motorworks.co.uk/brake-pads-bra07306-2.html

@@robchisholm72 Thanks, thank you so much! Great video.