Can't believe it , 4 hours later all done . Follow this video to the letter and it worked perfectly. My motor was full of water so I Followed the instructions and cleaned it with compressed air line and WD40 and it worked. It now located in the boot. And the roof is working again. Thrilled. Thank you 👍

Absolute brilliant video. The voiceover, the instructions, the simplicity. Brilliant, thank-you!

Followed this video this weekend .. went from broken motor to fully working relocated motor .. excellent step by video... thanks for posting

This is a great modifaction and the video is excellent. Just be aware that the manual roof release cabel can give you real problems (particularly removing the pump motor). This if like mine it is routed down behind some plastic panelling at the very back, which is next to impossibe to see (let alone get to). The trouble is the cable isn't long enough to reach the new location as it is. I had to take the cable off from the pump and feed it back through back under the plastic. Which can only be done once you get the cable away from the plastic plate (on the pump) by cutting the plastic, that holds the outer cable. Another thing to note is that some pump motors (mine included) are welded to the drive coupling section. So if your buying a new motor make sure you buy the correct type!!! With or without the welded drive coupling section I hope this info is of some help to someone. Thanks for the execellent video DB 192.

As others have attested, this is clearest, most instructive video on the subject. Thank you, db192!!! Two weekends of sweaty work and my 2003 Z4 3.0i convertible is back to life again! A couple of learnings from my experience: 1. The hardest part for me was getting the top of the housing off. I found the two visible zip ties (much obliged, db192, for the clearly marked pic!) and cut them without too much trouble. But after three hours of fishing around with my hands, a screwdriver, and a pry bar, and I just couldn't get the (untaped) lid to budge. Finally I wedged the pry bar against the outside (left side) of the housing top and used the side of vehicle as leverage and Voila! it popped off in one motion. I recommend this technique. Getting the bottom out was less trouble. Grab an edge of the housing with channel-lock pliers and pull hard to break that infernal last zip tie in the back at the bottom. The whole package came out (relatively) easily. Then release the various electrical and hydraulic lines from their molded channels on the bottom piece to release the hydraulic pump and motor from its watery prison. Mine was a soggy and rusty mess. NOTE: save the foam sound-proofing insulation. Wash it well and let it dry. It works well if using another container for the motor, as I did. 2. I decided to make life easier and purchase a relatively cheap ($80) new after-market motor. It had a welded-on (what's the word, flange? bracket?), the pointed-eared part that takes the two long hex-head screws to hold the motor onto the hydraulic pump. NOTE: while taking off the equivalent part that was not welded onto the OEM motor the linkage components: the metal pin, the nylon wheel, and that little metal piece that reinforces the center of the nylon wheel, came out suddenly along with some of the hydraulic fluid. My recommendation, if you face the same situation, is either to purchase a motor that does not have the flange/bracket welded on (this allows you to leave that piece and its component parts in place), or be prepared to reassemble it and replace some of the hydraulic fluid. I ended up draining the 20-year-old fluid from the pump and reservoir into a can and replacing it with OEM fluid. It was darker than the new OEM fluid, but not that bad, considering its age. 3. When these pieces (the metal linkage pin, nylon wheel, and a little metal reinforcement bar) come out, care must be taken to put them back together correctly. The little metal bar slides in through a same-sized slot on the back of the wheel (opposite the side with the holes). This is a critical part as is reinforces the half-moon hole in the wheel and gives a metal-to-metal connection to the drive shaft of the motor to prevent the nylon from wearing out. 4. The metal linkage pin slides loosely into a hole in the metal hydraulic pump wheel. It will fall out easily. My recommendation is to drain the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir (having fresh fluid to replace it) and stop worrying about having to hold the pump upside down to avoid losing fluid. Makes the whole process (which is already squeezed into a tight space) much easier assuming you have a pan or rags to catch the fluid. NOTE: I saw one video with great photos that shows a spring which fits around the metal pin. I suspect it functions to hold the nylon wheel firmly in place. After obsessing that I had somehow lost it (on the floor of the trunk/boot or worse, sucked into the electric motor by its magnets) I found at least one video that showed no such spring. I assume it varies by model. After a careful search, I assured myself that I had not lost a spring and subsequently found my motor works beautifully without one. 5. The metal pin needs to be in its metal hole and fit into one of the holes in the nylon wheel (whose half-moon hole is fitted on the half-moon drive shaft of the motor) while you line up the two holding bolts on the flange/bracket. I found it easiest to line everything up with one of the flange/bracket holes--metal pin, nylon hole (any of them), and flange/bracket hole all at 6 o'clock, holding them parallel to the ground and using gravity as a helper, and carefully assembling the motor onto the hydraulic pump. The first time I did this the pin apparently fell out, and while the motor was spinning away, it was not making linkage to the pump and therefore failing to lift the ragtop. NOTE: I did not have to remove or replace any O-rings in this arrangement, but have heard that in others you may need to in order to avoid double O-rings. 6. I initially planned to house my motor in a Tupperware cup and seal it with silicone caulk (per another video author's recommendation) and place it back in the now-cleaned-out drainage well. But the cup added a few inches to the total length of the pump/motor assembly and blocked the ragtop from fully retracting. So, I kept the motor in its sealed cup and relocated it, per db192's instructions, to the trunk/boot. Try and flood THAT motor, Mother Nature! 7. One benefit of the trunk relocation, BTW, is that is also further insulates the driver/passenger from the sound of the motor. Now, except for the top motor releasing the holding clamps, the entire ragtop retraction/lifting process is nearly silent. db192, you are the BEST!

Excellent video which enabled me to fix the problem for $100 using a new motor bought from eBay. It's a little challenging to get to the pump and then open/free the housing, but I prevailed and feel so satisfied to have fixed my baby and saved a whole lot of money. Thanks for putting this together.

I wish I found this video earlier! Struggled to remove the roof until you showed me that the motor is accessible from the boot. Saved me so much time and effort 👌 going to tackle this unfinished job tomorrow thanks to you Also, that fact that you did this whilst fitting your camera through is pure talent👏👏 its such a tight space

You are the man! Bought a low-mileage 2007 Z4 3.0i with a “bad top” and “bad power mirrors” (from your videos and others I knew the rusted top motor was a very common issue). I used these “bad parts” as a bargaining point and scored my Zed for a very good price. Following your “top motor fix and relocate” video I replaced just the motor for $104.00 and relocated it into the boot as you did. Works like new! Another common issue is the power mirror switch (it’s located right under the cup holder and any drink sweat or bump spillage drips right onto the switch shorting it out). Ordered a used one from a wrecked Z4 for $32.00 and it fixed my power side mirror issue. Now I have a low-mileage, beautiful Z4 that works properly all the way around. Thank you mate for a brilliant video - love your vids.

Best video on the internet for this project. Good job. This is my 2nd Z4 that the motor failed on and on my first one I did the official method of removing the entire top which was 12+ hours. Using this video, I did it in 2.5 hours.

You make this look so easy! I had a real battle getting the top off the case - found it easier from inside the car reaching over the seat.

Wow, perhaps the most informative, perfect and concise 'no flannel' video I've seen on youtube. Wished all videos were like this and straight to the point! Well done!

Thx for this, just what the doctor ordered! Gives me the confidence to tackle it myself👍

Thanks for sharing your excellent video. When there wasn’t a repair shop in town (other than the BMW dealer) that offered to even look at my 2006 Z4 roof issue, I found and followed your video. Getting the top off the motor/pump housing and extracting the bottom part of the bucket wasn't easy and made up 85% of the project. The rest was a snap; I reconditioned the electric motor, and the roof was operating shortly thereafter. Thank you, db192.

Just explaining how to put the shelf clips back in saved me putting a hammer through the back window,thank you.👍

Next weekend I’m diving into this. I don’t mind manually raising and lowering the hood (to be honest i very rarely ever raise it as I only drive the car on nice days), but it will be nice to have it working properly again!

Fantastic video, very clear and straightforward. You've given me the confidence to go for it . 10/10

absolute best video on this topic

This video is the gold standard of how to do this procedure. Well done Sir!

Thank you for this detailed walk through! You saved me hours. 🤗

This dude what thorough all the way through this video.. great job

Brilliant vid bro, just removed my roof motor following your instructions, all is well,Awaiting new motor now, thank u 🙏

Awesome video. Beautifully explained, no time wasted.

This is by far the best video to tackle this issue. Thank you VERY much!

Thanks and keep up the great work! Looking forward to new Z4 content.

Hands down the best video on KZfaq for this! Thank you

Finally! Someone put this together. Thank you!

Excellent video and best explanation of the failure mode and how to fix the problem fo good. Thanks a lot.

you are a genius!!! at the garage, they asked me for 600£!! well done bro, keep it up

Thanks, the best video i've seen on roof motor relocation

What a cracking video. So helpful and done in a simple, easy to understand format. This summers job I think......

Great video!

Brilliant, when I get a Z4 I will make the modification before it gets wet! Thanks for the great video, much easier than I thought it would be, I may get a few scratches as you did, but it would not beat me Lol ;) Cheers :)

Great job!!!! Thanks for sharing

Thanks to this video I was able to solve the problem! I apreciate it

Really Useful thanks keep it up !

Great video, subscribed

Very good video thanks

Great video! No way I would have been able to do the job without it, it would have cost me a lot to get it fixed, thanks a lot!! After 6 months of the roof not working I decided to have a go at trying to access the motor from the boot. Surprisingly I was able to unhook the clip that holds the top of the case (that holds the motor inside it) using a pick tool which had a hook shape at the end. Once unclipped used a screwdriver to lift open the case from all sides. I thought at that point the motor would just lift out but this was not the case as some of the cables were being held by the cable ties at the rear of the bottom part of the case / bucket. I spent a couple of hours trying to break the cable ties etc but did not succeed. However, in the end I was able to pull out the motor enough by repositioning the cables so that it was no longer in the water and was now positioned vertically alongside the sidewall of the car. I was able to position the motor with the electrical connections towards the rear of the car so i could see them and the hydraulics towards the front of the car. Then sprayed some WD40 in the motor and bingo was able to get it started. Tested it a few times, and the roof opened and closed. Using a cable tie I secured the motor in this position to the side wall (you can thread the cable tie through the metal strip that is already there ). All in all really happy with the result as it cost me nothing apart from a little bit of time and some WD40!

Thanks. What a really well put together video. I have followed it with great success. My arms are a bit bruised from all the struggling to get the motor and housing out from a crowded spot. But still an excellent demonstration of how it all can be done which encouraged me to persist

Thanks for this great video 😊

Just picked up a 08 z4 and the shop that inspected it said I need to do this. Thanks for the how to.

Best ever video you really help me and save me around 800 all done comon Motor damage problems just replace motor

Excellent video video if you lived in Puerto Rico I would take my car to do that job

Great video!! Thanks🙏

Marvelous!

great vid thanks..

Best video for this project very detailed, this will help me a lot try to working on mine Z

Great video

Hi, just wanted to say thank you for such a great video, I must have watched and paused it 20 times in total, but somehow, with a little bit of luck I've managed to fix my roof, I'm so chuffed, thanks again 🤟👍

excellent job sir

Thank you very much!

Good video.

Great info, I'm working my top motor too.

well done!

Yesterday I found an oil leakage on my garage floor near the left rear wheel, exactly where the drain hole should eject rain water coming from the electric roof housing ... and in fact electric roof was not working properly: it was necessary to manually operate it to close it. When I pushed the "close button" I could hear the electric motor running, but it was like there was not enough hydraulic pressure to lift it up. I hope it's just a pipe not fixed well that caused the fluid leakage...and maybe fixing it and refilling hydraulic fluid is sufficient to have a fully working electric roof! Now I'll follow your instructions (seem the best so far on KZfaq) and keep you and everyone reading this comment updated on my work. Since I'm removing the assembly "electric motor/hydraulic pump”, I'm also going to relocate it into the trunk.

The exact same thing is happening to mine I’ll be checking it out on Sunday so wish me luck hopefully the motor hasn’t gone but if it has you’ve saved me spending £800 😅

Well done for doing it yourself! I need to do mine :(

Great video, little harder to take apart but got it working after 3 years, save my self like 3000 dls. I just need to work in the relocation but for now im happy it was just a matter of replacing the motor

Paldies par informaciju

Finally got it. Getting the bottom of the motor container out was tough. The little button that disables the hydraulics was stuck so that took a little while to figure out. Overall this was one of the hardest DIY projects that I have ever done.

Hello ,i do it and get the motor out the bucket but stil i cant pull the wiring , i think its stuck under the bucket. how i can solve it and also how i can get the bucket out. thanks

Brilliant video and very helpful commentary. The roof motor on my Z4 has failed so I might attempt to fix/replace it myself. Failing that, can I pop round to you for you to do it for me 😂 I’ll pay a decent hourly rate 😅

Excellent video! Great to see it's possible to fix this without removing the entire top. I started the process but I am unable to get the top cover off the motor housing. Mine has tape around it and I can't get it all the tape off. One thing that you were unable to show is how and when you remove two of the more difficult wire ties. Can you answer these questions for me? You were able to remove the motor when you removed the top of the motor cover without clipping the back wire tie on the housing? Which wire ties did you need to cut just to get the motor out? Was there just the two of the three that you noted with red arrows (not the third one on the back off the housing)? You removed the motor housing after you removed the motor, how did you get the back wire tie of the housing off, were you able to get your hand behind and cut or did you just pull housing until it broke? To get to the back wire tire, you needed to get the top cover off the housing to have enough room to get your hand back there to cut?

This guy made it look simple. I'm not an Electrician or a Mechanic, but after watching this, I am still not a Electrician or Mechanic, ok, goodnight. I'd just pay a skillful Mechanical Electrical guy like him to do it for me.

Great video! How did you get to the bottom cable tie at the bottom of the case where the motor sits?

I have gotten to the motor housing, used goo gone and gotten the tape off. Any additional tips to getting the top of the housing off? I have been trying for a week 🤣

This is the best video I have seen on how to fix the top. This is much better than taking the whole thing off.

….also, we’re you able to do everything from the boot or did you take out the plastic trim behind the passenger seat?

Thanks for the great video. I was not able to remove the under cover of the motor. How did you remove this?　Is there something holding it in place?

Thanks for the video. What is the main reason for why it do get soaked - and how to avoid?

Do you know how to diagnose the latch motor @ the front for a fault?

This is going to be my weekend project as my motor doesn’t seem to work.

Do you have any information on replacing the individual lift cylinders? I guess the passenger side is leaking. I haven't open it up look yet but fluid is leaking out on the ground on the passenger side.

This is gold. You really should throw up a patreon for this. People would tip you. As you know this is a pretty universal problem for E85 owners. Luv and Peace.

It appears on my 04 Z4 the hydraulic lines aren’t long enough to give enough slack to comfortably move the motor to the trunk, going to have to cut a window for the lines PRIOR to replacing the motor to give more leeway. Any ideas on this/was that year made with shorter hydraulic lines? Going to try this anyway.

Love the vid. Think you can provide which Z4 you have? I've seen some motors that don't have that flange that connects to the bracket and instead you have to buy the motor and bracket as one. I'd hate to have to take the motor out and check mine before ordering the replacement motor. Mine is a 2003 E85, was wondering if yours is also E85 or a 2009+ E89.

How do you get tape of to get top part of housing out, could you just drill into it and break out?

Thanks for the video, i wouldnt have even attempted this without it so very much appreciated!! Decided to give it a go today - started so well but now I’m stuck. Managed to get the top of the cover off, which wasn’t too bad tbh. The motor came out after a bit of wrangling but can’t break the lines free of the bottom of the cover. I can feel a cable tie near the bottom but not sure if it’s the ones holding the cables or the bottom of the cover. Can’t get anything in to cut it and it seems to keeping the cover from moving. Also there isn’t much movement to try to wrench it out with brute force. Got an endoscope coming tomorrow so hopefully that will help me get a craft knife in there. Any tips or tricks (and save the small amount of skin that’s left on my fingers)

I was told the motor must be facing upwards(after relocation) or it may not function properly. have you had any problems with it just sitting in there?Thanks.

I am stuck on that last cable tie on the lower rear part of the housing. Any tips? Thanks!

Hi, was glad to come across this video as i have the exact same problem, when pushing roof open button the windows drop down, the 2 metal latches at top of windscreen open and roof opens about half an inch then nothing, however wanted to ask in your video and on my car the motor can be heard working/rotating yet not opening the roof which you say is because the motor has failed yet i can hear it or maybe another motor working ? Great video and wanted to ask you your experience before i start taking things apart. Many Thanks Carl - Bristol UK

Any idea why mine might be sticking. Just a slight amount of pressure will get it to let go to retract. Doesn't seem to have any movement issues after that?

Where can I do this in Norwich or nearby?

Hi - Thanks for the video. However I cannot release the box that holds the motor and the cables are stuck underneath- Help!

Brilliant video - quick question how do you run compressed air through the motor to revive it?

Awesome video, plan on doing this myself on a 2006 Z4. Question - my top was working fine, had it down for a drive then when I went to put it back up it came up just to about the roll bars and stopped. The red light started flashing on the console between the raise/lower buttons. Had to release it with the manual cable and close by hand. Can open it manually part of the way and then finish using the open button but then once I go to raise it, it does like before, will raise part of the way then stops and the red light keeps flashing. Any thoughts on what could be causing this issue? Thanks for any thoughts.

Fantastic video. One question as I noticed you only replaced the motor. Would it be better to replace the whole hydro unit while the unit is removed or do you feel the motor replacement should be sufficient?

The top of my case came off easy, I clipped the two visible cable ties but can't really get the pump out very far, where am I going wrong?

Is there a Risk of pressing the hydraulic lines and Cables when completly open?

Good job! Can you show how to put the panel clips back in??? How can you put them in? Thanks

I have followed this step by step and my motor seems to be working fine however my roof is still not working. Any ideas on what this could be ?

Was able to solve the problem and now I’m stuck on putting the lil hinges from the back of the seat! Can’t find the place to pop them in

Quick question. How does the roof go down if the shelf is raised and it is not resting on the micro switch?

Hi. Im doing this but I cant pull out the motor . there is one hose attached to the black plastic in motor also the electrical cables are too short. I dont know if it's short or stuck. Please helllllllp ! 😭😭😭

Where is the micro switch exactly? I can't find it anywhere. Any ideas?

Do you know what oil the motor takes?

Z4 convertible motor replacement

The motor cover just doesn't come out of the chamber. Any idea on how to remove it? I tried it for almost 2 hours.

Hi guys.. In the middle of doing this..And following this Great vid.. Thanks DB 129.. One question.. Once the top housing and motor is out how do i go about taking the bottom housing out as it is tied in with cable tie which is impossible to get to to cut.. Thanks for any help 👍😎

I have a problem maybe someone can help me. I replaced everything just like in the video but i think there is something going on with the manual latch thats preventing it from going down. When i press the button i hear the motor going but the top wont come down. The latch is broken so thats why I think there is something going on with that. Also if i try to put the top down manually it wont let me it will only go like a quarter of the way then wont go anymore. Like something its blocking it. Please help