Sorry for the delayed reply, there's not a lot of room in the chaincase but I just tapped the outer race with a copper (or brass) hammer. Once you have it in, when you tighten the bolt on the sprocket will draw it in completely if you're not fully seated.

Correct. There is no need to seperate the wheel hub from the axle( it is actually better if you don't distirb the taperlock) Pull the shaft and wheel hub as an assembly. Clean the surfaces well, I strongly reccomend packing the outboard bearing with a good grade wheel bearing grease and install the outboard seal. be sure to torque the retaining bolt well and you might want to use the blue(removable) loctight on the threads. Glad to help, hope your project goes well.

Paul Rak ...Wow... thanks very much fir your reply Paul. That’s terrific. I’ll have a go and let you know how I did. Many thanks again. 🙏 Jason

@@jasonyannuccelli2499 Alot of the youtube videos depict removing the hub from the axle, it's certainly not necessary on the 873. When I bought my machine after hard time at a foundry, somone seperated the tapered hub from the axle and did not retighten properly and caused damage when it came loose. I had to pay for a costly shaft repair and replace the hub.

Paul Rak Oh bummer....😬 There is certainly correct and incorrect ways of doing everything mechanical hey. Make a mistake and take the incorrect way and damage caused can be heartbreaking. That’s why I’m not afraid to ask the seemingly silly questions so I can learn from others knowledge and do it the right way first time. Thank you.

It could be the drive chains, I have a similar issue on mine. At times will bind on a turn and you hear some popping noises. I know my chains are streched and free floating and there is no slack adjustment or half link that I'm aware of, and I probaly will not replace them before I win the lottery.... LOL. When it happens, I stop, move briefly in a different direction and do not try to force it. Generaly it stops.

To replace the bearings, the bolt that holds the sprocket inside the chain case must be removed so the axle can be pulled, then the bearings come off the shaft. They don't come off the hub side so why disturb the taper lock hub.(extra work of no benefit) The outer races of the bearings need to be pressed into the tube to the machined stop. I carefully just drove in the races evenly with a soft hammer. As far as the wear sleeve, the grooves in my shaft were not that bad. I sanded away any sharpness to the groove, packed the outboard bearing and seal with grease and let the double lip seal do it's thing. The seals were also pressed into place evenly with a block of wood, then the shaft was reinstalled. I have NO leak issues and the inside of my rims are clean from oil leaks. Hope that helps.

Paul Rak thanks so much

Jack Jenkins, glad you found the video somewhat helpful. Could be a bearing race issue, but drawing the nut tight that secures the sprocket to the shaft should help seat the bearing race squarly in the machined socket. I have at times popping noises from my worn chains when I go backwards but no problems feathering a turn. Not sure what your facing. I maintain a good relationship with my Bobcat dealer if often is where I turn for unknown problems. Best of luck.

@@MrPaulrak yep the dealer is where I am going next. Hard to go in a straight line backward. Thanks.

The only thing being lubircated is the chains, sprockets and the wheel bearings. Bobcat specifies their hydraulic oil so Iv'e been using the AW32 hydraulic oil, but to me that seems light for the wheel bearings. I think you would be fine with a motor oil but I've never tried it. I know in axles and gearboxes even a 90W was typical however in this instance, my concern would be how well a heavier weight oil would flow through the inboard bearing and tube to lubericate the outboard bearing especially in cooler weather.

@@MrPaulrak Thanks. I have a 873, and I bought the manual for it online. The specs on it say if hyd. is not available to use 10w30 motor oil. I think I would go with synthetic though as I live in cold weather area and want it to flow well below 0,

I don know what a shop may charge, but I'm guessing about sixteen hours in labor and about $300 in parts.

Just google ISO 32 hydraulic oil you can find any number of reputable brands such as Shell Telus VX 32, Mobil 106126, Chevron, and more, be more cautious when it come to off brand oils from big box stores such as walmart.

@@MrPaulrak thanks I normally use aw 42 from the oil company but I got a bad leak I've just been refilling with a mix of tractor oil and hydraulic oil from Walmart to get me by till I go to the oil company I can't find the leak I know it's coming the right bottom side (643 bobcat) but it's so packed with manure from cows