So you speak English to your KZfaq audience, Spanish to your tools, and French to your daughter? You truly are a multilinguist.

I was once forced to engeneer crap like this. The stainless sleeve on the mild steel shaft to protect the seeling was not allowed by my boss back then. Too expensive he said. I'm glad, they never built it, at least as far as I know. I left after a few weeks.

This setup for capacitors is what is commonly called a "Hard Start Kit". As the capacitor charges during the initial startup it delays voltage/current phase to the second winding effectively creating 2 phases. It then usually switches off after a couple of milliseconds. It's common on a lot of compressors for refrigerators etc. etc. for single phase non-shaded pole motors.

I've also noticed many submersible pumps are oil-filled. Keeps things lubricated, helps cool the motor, and also minimizes the chance of water/moisture ingress.

I know that this is an old video but I just watched it and wanted to share my "Engineered To Fail" story. I used to own a car, from a certain manufacturer that shall remain nameless, and from the factory, they used lithium grease in the wheel bearings. Now...I ain't no genus but I shur as heckums know that lithium grease is petroleum based and WILL dissolve rubber. Sure enough, it did. I had to go back to the manufacturer and get a new set of wheel bearings. I packed and installed them myself with proper bearing grease so that wouldn't happen again. The car is 33 years old now and the bearings are still spinning strong. There doesn't seem to be any other explanation other than engineered to fail, that's just too big of a "mistake" for a big name car company to make "by accident". Just thought I'd share. Keep on choochin!

That engineering has helped job shops like mine earn a pay check. Can't tell you how many shafts I have repaired because of the same exact problems. Even big names like Baldor, they build them the same way..carbon steel shafts. Great jobs for the metalizing!

They have in fact got it to a fine science, while I was working in an electronics store within five days I had no less than nine Bose radios fail due to faulty power supplies, they were less than a week out of warranty. Unfortunately it happens on a very frequent basis, greed runs this world

I feel like I have to clear up a couple things about Cambodian/Canadian Tire. It is not a weirdly named hardware store. It started as purely automotive, hence the name. Now it has three basic categories, Automotive, both parts and service, Recreational/seasonal bullshit, and hardware/housewares; which is why it's a little confusing that you can get sump pumps at a tire store. In Canada if you ask someone where to get camping gear you'll probably end up being sent to Canadian Tire, many first bikes were bought there, same for basic tools, or an oil filter. Now you might say; that sounds like a weird hardware store but even though you can buy paint at Canadian Tire you can't buy wood, screws, or tile there. So if you are actually doing home renos you are going to go to a Home Depot. GT snow racer=Canadian Tire, Carton o'Smokes=Costco or a buddy on the res, Coleman Stove= Canadian Tire, Dishwasher= Home Depot, K&N Air Filter= Canadian Tire, 72 inch wide screen TV = London Drugs (well probably not but they have 'em). No I don't work there, I just really like big box stores. My favourite part is waiting 30 minutes for some 16 year old to get off his break and open the fucking locked sliding glass cases which guard the socket sets and bullets. Yes you can buy bullets from Canadian Tire. Pretty clear now, right?

I can't stop watching your vids man... Potato milling brought me here

I just got into this channel and really love the videos. I used to build PCs in a small shop and saw batches of motherboards go bad because of the same capacitors for 2 years straight. I think we had replaced every one we sold. Later I heard that the company had stolen the formula in an act of corporate espionage, but the formula wasn't finished. The company who was stolen from said it was still in testing. Joke's on the consumer, I guess.

At my scandinavian electrician highschool thingy we used to shock each others with the megger. Fun as fuck

Not like anyone cares, but I'll say it anyhow... Princess Auto. Started in Winterpeg. Was an auto wrecker. They were on Princess street. Hence the name. "Now you know". :D Also - be careful of ramming too many electrons down the pipe there. You'll just over-do the voltage rating of the wiring, fire holes through it, then it'll really be toast, when before maybe it wasn't. Unless you're testing plug wires. Then go nuts.

"Like shearing a pig... lots of squealing, not a lot of wool." that's some gold there.

Might not be nefarious or cost cutting measure. It could be that the original engineer designed it right and then someone else didn't understand what the SS sleeve was for. Another option is that it was designed by an engineer who knows how to pick the very best powder coat, the very best power cable, the very best (and oversized) bearings, the most expensive gaskets, etc but doesn't have an understanding of common failure modes. Perhaps their prototypes were tested continuously--never stopped and started. "Based on our testing and typical user usage rates, this pump will last forever. We should guarantee it for life!"

"I can't afford to buy harbor freight c batteries"... Uses Energizer lithiums 😂😂😂

Gotta say that dismantling was so beautifully described, amazing. Real depth of knowledge, I don't think you missed much! And of course so entertaining - as usual. Unique.

I watch these videos for your verbal idiosyncrasies.

Another great review. Thanks! If the winding wasn't burned, I would have turned that shaft down and installed a sleeve. Also, even in spite of the mild steel shaft - had the motor been filled with oil, the shaft corrosion, bearing seizure, and winding damage may have taken many years longer. The older Zoeller pumps had only one shaft seal and with an oil filled motor, they lasted 10s of years. I would love to hear their "Excuse" for not replacing it. That has to be a load of BS!!!

years ago I had my automatic transmission rebuilt at a well known chain repair shop. they asked if I wanted to buy an extended lifetime warranty for an additional fee. I said ok. I go pick my car up and tell the clerk that I no longer wanted the warranty. he told that once I accepted it is couldn't back out. I said that if I drove out and came back in would agree. short version, hour later with managers and corporate calls, they relented. why such fuss over paperwork besides extra money. friend of mine worked there and told me that they use vastly superior components in the rebuild when they have the extended warranty. no warranty junk parts, knowing you will get maybe 3 yrs use. with warranty... best parts are used. problem is that they lied to me that day and said warranty or not, they us only the best parts for rebuild. but drove out there paying for only the rebuild, but was told when it breaks don't come back. didn't need to come back car ran great for 6 yrs and sold it

Too cheap to get C-Cells, uses 4 lithium AA batteries instead...

It is a very annoying trend these days, with pretty much everything, from premium car manufacturers, that mill timing chain sprockets right on to their diesel engine cranks (single part), then use cheap steel to make the timing chain itself, couple that to long life engine oil, and you have an engine that sometimes even fails under warranty, and it is pretty certain to fail sometime soon after that, other car manufacturer decided that lock keys on the crank bearings is no longer a necessity, so they remove them from design, long life oil again, that gets too thin to maintain a film when the engine sits for a few days, and when it is started up, crank just so slightly pulls the bearing insert with itself for a tiny bit, tiny bit by tiny bit, and few tens of thousands km later the oil passage hole in the bearing insert does no longer align with the oil passage in the bearing seat - no oil gets to the crank - engine kaput shortly after, then there are top end brake parts manufacturer that is doing hard anodizing on their racing aluminum parts, you think - hard anodizing much more durable than regular (harder and thicker), will make the part last longer... wrong... I made the same exact part, same exact dimensions, do regular anodizing on it (thinner and softer) and the parts suddenly last up to 2000km (racing application) instead of the originals 1000km - aluminum part is near a very hot steel part - anodizing is flaking off of the aluminum (that will just happen, no way around it), so the hard/thick layer, when it flakes off, immediately creates nearly 0,1mm clearance - which is enough slop for the steel part to start hammer on the aluminum and few braking sessions later than clearance is already 0,2mm and at 0,5 the aluminum part is garbage - this doesn't happen not nearly as fast with the regular/thin/soft anodizing on it... but hey - capitalism moves the world right, only what direction?

I had to pause when you said Princess Auto so I could look it up, I thought it was a joke...

It like a journey back in time. This was the first AvE video of yours I watched and I've been a fan ever since.

Selling pumps with engineered failure with lifetime warranty is not the best strategy for the store.

I have worked for many manufacturing and engineering company's during the last 25+ yes and I can honestly say I've never heard of anyone designing a part or assembly to fail. Sure it often seems like that but the reality is that most equipment have dozens and sometimes even hundred or thousands of components and each component has multiple possible failure modes. Sooner or later one of those dozens/hundreds/thousands of components are going to fail while other components night still have many years of service life remaining. The fact they used 3 seals instead of 1 or 2 most likely indicates they knew that was the weakest link of the chain and tried to beaf it up, sure they could have changed to a as shaft or even just a ss sleeve, but that might not have been as easy as just using 3 seals, since the as shaft motor might not have been available from their supplier etc.

I've had Princess Auto explain to me that their official return policy is whatever you can convince the clerk is reasonable. As the customer service is usually staffed by younger females dealing with rude and impatient men all day, I find this greatly to my advantage. Conversations starting with "Hi, you look like you're in a good mood/you've had a rough day, how's your shift going? I like that tattoo/colored hair/piercing/dead look of a wasted youth in your eyes/etc" instead of "The fuckin' garbage I buy here always breaks, empty the goddamn till into my rucksack or I'm going to shit on the counter again" that the poor girlies hear all day seems to be the optimal strategy. Also, clean your junk before you return it. If you so much as sprinkle mud on it it gives the impression it was used as arena flooring at a monster truck rally. No need to keep receipts, it's all on file, and they'll even return things that are so old they don't even have the UPC for it in their system, long as they can tell it's a Superfister product. I've heard Harbor Freight's return policy ain't actually all that shabby either, but, yeah. Princess Auto is Harbor Freight of the north, with everything double the price for the same quality. I don't quite understand what's going on in the UberOhm meter. Wouldn't typical enamel or other insulation fail under 10,000v? Wouldn't you be creating punctures that would then continue to be failure points later?

As part of an engineering course I did many years ago, we actually did built in failure strategies for both mechanical and electro/electronic systems. It amazes me that this sort of thing wasn't stopped years ago, but its got to be such a precise science, if frightening how precise they can be with the failure of the products they sell. So it's screw the environment and make sure you keep coming back for a new product as soon as possible.

LOL, @4:13 "I ain't Dave Jones"

i would love to see you take some of these products that you have found problems and post hacks to fix them when bought new ! love your posts

You don't want to go much above the running voltage with a megger as it could break down the insulation in a good motor.

+AvE - the stuff on the motor windings is called varnish, the string I have always known as just string, or lacing cord/tape - it's made of nylon or polyester, which is what does the shrinking you mentioned that holds everything in nice and tight. The one you have there looks like it's been coated in lacquer too.

"Not to worry, I've got a permit"..... 6:41 best part.

Aboot how much is an "arm and a dick" in US dollars

Interesting fact about them bearings -- There's a Chinese bearing company called "GERMANY" -- Usually when you see a Chinese domestic manufacturer advertising "GERMANY BEARINGS" in their widgets, they're bearings made by the Chinese "GERMANY" -- Not actually imported from der vaterland.

My son, a rock musician, had a large amplifier for his stage work. One day, during a practice session the amp went poof and let the blue smoke out. So I put the head on my electronics bench and broke it down to see if it was repairable. It was a solid state amp with no tubes. What had happened was an insect had made its way onto the circuitboard and got itself wedged into the ac/dc leads of the voltage rectifier and shorted it. Normally this would entail replacing the rectifier and fuse and you'd be good to go. The problem with this particular amp was it had no fuse and no circuit protection whatsoever so the electricities just kept pumping along and set the board on fire. This was a well known amp brand name that cost over $1000.

I remember the "meggers" in the good old days, that were powered by hand-cranked generators.

OMG...if you did this with high end audio equipment which is fraught with snake oil BS, you'd be famous...and hated...and probably targeted...but wow...how much fun that would be, don't get me wrong...love current reviews.

Cambodian Tire? Sounds reliable.

Man I gotta give it to you, youre a damn pro. Excellent mechanical engineer and damn outstanding in electronics. Been watching your vids for 2 days and already thinking of donating. Keep it up dude.

I had a $90 USD Lowe's house brand cast iron housing pump like this that was America made from the late 1990's that lasted about 12 or 13 years before it failed. The problem ended up being the float switch finally corroded inside from swinging in a wet sump basin (the pump was actually tied to a rope and not sitting on the basins bottom). Lowe's at the time sold replacement float switches that only cost $10 or so. By the time that I needed a new switch there were none to be found. Ended up taking the motor apart and all the oil inside was still clean with no water present.

"Keep your stick on the ice" Got to love The Red & Green Show!

I have disassembled a competing pump (Little Giant) and was VERY surprised when about 2 cups of oily liquid came out when I opened it up. (workbench was slathered) After some research, I realized this was special "dielectric" oil which is expensive and hard to source. They fill the inside of the pump-housing to allow thermal transfer to the water being pumped. It also eliminates water-intrusion. ('cuz the housing is already full of liquid)

I actually came across this same engineered obsolescence in a hot tub pump. Shaft rusted, seal leaks. No sleeve. Divorced pump body and horizontal mounting meant that no water made it into the motor. The fact that the only way of purchasing the $500 water pump is with a free motor (go figure) means I have a perfectly good(ish) 240v 2 speed 5hp motor, with that coveted (by obsolescence engineers and bean counters) service factor of "special", waiting for a home in a future project that will work with a rusty shaft.

I don't believe you said how many rippems the shaft will spin at... one of my favorite parts

Dude you should do stand up ,I`d pay :)

Always pick up some useful information while watching this channel. Love the videos, great work.

I used to help my friend fixing '80s Fisher & Paykell washing machines for a living. They put a guard in to stop drips from the seal at the bottom of the drum falling into the motor. The drip guard was at exact same height as the control spring for the mechanical emergency brake/stop system, so that the drips would fly onto the spring and start corroding it. Eventually the spring would rust out and snap, usually while the thing was spinning at full chooch, dropping the brake in instantly (its designed to be a gradual process), blowing the fark out of the gearbox, and tearing up the mounts. What could have been solved by a new seal and cleaning up the motor was now an un-salvageable pile of junk. Their other weak point was contact fouling on the clockwork timer mechanisms. Originally, we could take these apart and clean them up, but then they started making them out of a super brittle fiberglass material, and riveting them together, so that it was EXTREMELY difficult to get one apart without breaking it, let alone cleaning it up and getting back together again. I know this is a comment on a pretty old video, but engineering to fail just makes me so gosh darned mad, that I had to smash some letter-buttons.

"I ain't Dave Jones" That statement made my day.

Germany is half gone... :/

You mentioned that electronics might have a planted timebomb... well, I'm an IT guy and it seems like all of the WIndows 7 machines I work on just suddenly got much slower. Even ones that I've freshly reinstalled Windows on. It seems pretty convenient since Windows 10 just came out 3 months ago.... just sayin'

Going to 2x Volts on a typical AC motor is fine for an insulation test so your 500 Volt test was more than enough! I know, if a little is good, more is better....at some point however Cisco, you actually cause an insulation brakedown! Love your fervor and dedication to your "craft"! You know, in a loose kinda way!

i've sold sump/utility pumps for 16 years and only had switch failures and impeller failures. also the submersible pumps [flotec/pentair etc] are all oil filled/cooled. still. good video, thanks

A wonderful grand review if I do say so myself. Keep the pressure on these bastids. I don't know where you got that federation money but it is a feral offense in the frozen north to posses it. I sure am glad I don't have a basement or I would probably need a ton of those pumps. We are in the land of shallow water table here and I bet I couldn't keep it pumped out. When I was building the fence around the back yard I had to hurry and get the concrete and the post in the hole or it would fill up with water. Thanks for the video.

That's actually brilliant, you didn't think a free replacement warranty came without strings?

Lacing......or at least thats what we called it at the phone co. Before they began useing the razor sharp tywraps instead of all that lovely but time consumeing lacework. Rich/San Jose

He so much calmer in this earlier videos. I think I like calm AVE more than I like Excited AVE. Maybe even a hybrid with the humour.

Hey Cris, I'd like to have the reveal, meaning a ton of the Lament subs like me would luv for you to tell us all what you do for a living on a the daily that is, let alone a shop tour when you get the H MILL up. A recent mug shot would be appreciated 🇨🇦

I find it hard to believe a pump that well designed could have had something deliberately designed to failed, why go to the bother of making everything else so bulletproof, but then how'd they miss it? Probably an intern or rookie designer didn't know and whacked it in, or someone at purchasing decided the few cent for a stainless steel sleeve by 1 million wasn't worth it.

A little late to this party. I worked on a coolant pump in an inductive heat shrink machine for tool holders at my work. Over the years it was neglected and now it leaks around the shaft. So I took it apart and it's a weird little guy. It looks like a couple carbon bushings press an o ring around the shaft into the nylon "casting" and that's how it seals. Now the actual shaft has worn where the o ring sat and it just pisses out whatever you put in there. So this pump is from a manufacturer that also makes pumps for pools, and the fluid specified for my pump in particular is water or ethylene glycol. Now my plan was to put a speedy sleeve over the worn portion and hope for the best, but I can't find one for a 10mm shaft. So whatever it's been dammed off with absorbent socks and everyone has been instructed to refill the tank before use - or whatever - fuggit, it's not totally fucked yet.

single phase induction motors can be in 4 different configurations: 1: shaded pole, uses shorted copper bits to get starting torque, not efficient, not much starting torque but it's cheap (no caps, no switches), so it's used for small cooling fans and other small things where that's not a big problem. can technically be potted to make the stator waterproof, I think. 2: resistance start, uses a separate set of field coils hooked to a centrifugal switch, or other manner of starting relay to start, usually has high starting amps as a result, but since the start coils disengage after it picks up enough speed, that isn't a problem with a lot of applications. starting is very inefficient, and generates a lot of heat. used a lot in fans and washing machines 3: capacitor start, basically the same as resistance start, but it uses a big cap to do the phase shift instead of relying on resistance, high starting torque, so it can start difficult loads, but it WILL burn out quickly if it can't start within a couple seconds, the cap may fry first, which will put it back in resistance start mode, which will burn out the start windings in short order. At this point you may be longing for 3phase motors that lack all this fuckery 4: capacitor run, they have a permanently attached capacitor with dedicated field windings to match, which provides starting torque, and a good chunk of the torque under load, not as much torque as the capacitor start, but that can be fixed by attaching a start cap in parallel with the run cap that gets shut down by a start switch. The magnetic field is elliptical, except at the load it's designed to turn, where it becomes circular, the torque and speed pulsate a bit at any other speed. No switches required, and run caps often outlive the motor they are attached to. Used when a reliable, simple motor is needed, I have even seen them in reciprocating refrigeration compressors WITHOUT a start cap, so they can do some torque if they are designed for it. I see these most in fans. They don't seem to overheat as readily as the other designs because they start in the configuration they are supposed to run in, unless there is a start cap to get even more starting torque. I prefer the capacitor run design, and any time you see the resistance start motors, you know the manufacturer has accountants running the show since a cheap start/run capacitor is all it needs to be less shitty

So, you going to buy another and sleeve the end, or just buy a better pump?

Sorry about your pump! I disagree on what you said about the megger, you shouldn't test more than double the rms voltage with a Megger. Here in NZ we have a 230/400v single/3 phase system. So as everything is only 230 above earth a 500v megger will test it to our wiring standards. 1kv is handy for phase to phase problems but higher than that and you are creating more problems than solving by putting a higher than rated voltage across the insulation.

In the UK we have these gadgets called "Portable Appliance Testers" that do all the stuff like insulation tests on wall-power stuff. Very handy and only a few hundred squids.

I listen to your channel while taking things apart in my shed

Fry my wife? i dont even have a wife ahhahahaha jokes on yBZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

Man, knowing that it is designed to fail, it would be a fantastic idea to buy that warranty that they (at least in the states) keep hawking to me every time I try and buy a left-hand turn pipe dethreader. Like I have done with the 12v tire inflator that I have replaced at least 10 times. I have a similar hatred for the '12v accessory' socket as you do for threaded connections for fluids. Nobody is calling it a cigarette lighter anymore. So why keep the shape when it SUCKS SO BAD for what it does now?

I've seen engineered to fail mechanical parts in VCR's and Camcorders all through the 2 decades I serviced them. 1 particular high end brand used cheap grease that was guaranteed to dry out in 3 years on the same part in their whole line from the mid 80's until the end of the tape recording era. There was always a swing arm with a light return spring that pulled the tape out and brought it over to the capstan. The arm was attached to a metal sleeve that rotated around a metal post. The grease was between the post and the sleeve, so when it dried out the weak spring couldn't pull the swing arm back, and it would eat your tape. Here's the kicker, it was the only metal on metal part in the entire unit other than the sealed bearings. It was the same design flaw on VHS and video 8. The fix was simple, pull it apart and clean the grease off and replace it with a lighter lube that wouldn't dry out. You mentioned capacitors in electronics failing and that instantly triggered my memory of that fishy smell. I always figured the capacitor failure in camcorders to be from packing 10 pounds of crap into a 5 pound package instead of purposely creating a future failure since they were pushing the boundaries of how small they could make the components.

Love your videos even if half the time they are way over my head. Keep up the good work.

Why would they engineer something to fail but give it a lifetime warranty? Does that help them somehow?

Masters of Engineering pre req's E.T.F 101 course requirements: An examination of your future employers requirement to make money and breed discontentment in the workplace. You will be required to design and implement various procedures to keep the assembly line humming along until it doesn't. Credits: 4

For anyone interested in the engineered to fail concept; search for "lightbulb conspiracy" and "planned obsolescence". And as usual, great sense of humor mr AvE

Just FYI, meggers have long been used to test insulation/corrosion/whatever on whip antennas and cables/connections in marine environment. Salt is death there to so many metallic bits, besides conductive when wet. The high voltage "sniffs out" the salty shunt circuits. Of course 1 kw HF transmitters will find the weak bits other wise, with some stress on the electronics.

Thought you would have had an old-school, hand-cranked Megger Meter!

yeah it happens in the electronics industry. EEPROM memory, that's magnetic toroidal memory that comes on little chips and holds up to 1kb for ICs to use as registers, has a working cycle of around 100,000 writes. It's commonly roumored that through software they can precisely make a component fail by writing to this way more than they need to, like every cycle. When I was first playing with arduino, I made a plotting thermometer that wrote to EEPROM every cycle because I didn't know you could wear it out so easily, the thing died in a week.

Motor is PSC, permanent split capacitor, used on fans, blowers, and some pumps if not much starting torque is required. There is a single capacitor between hot and start winding and no capacitor on the run winding. Starting torque is low, but motor runs normally at rated HP once it gets going.

I worked at Harbor Freight for almost a year. I honestly can say that any of the pumps that HFT sells were designed to fail. When you purchase anything with an electronic or fuel reliant drive it will most likely fail if you actually use the damn thing like the way it was advertised to be used. As a cashier, they make commission off the extended warranties. If you purchase the extended warranty, a certain percentage of the amount spent on the extended warranty is given to the cashier on the next paycheck as a "Thanks for the free money" as hardly any customer will ever warranty of $25 tool they got on sale. The other part of the money spent on the warranty is sent to the manufacturer of the tool as a "incase they manage to procure a valid warranty" fund as the warranty of anything is subject to the store manger or (if the store was falling apart like mine was) the cashier. Of course there was a number to call, to verify for purchaser that their purchase was insured, and the what-not. But it all came down to how you socialized with myself who was working as a cashier at the time that I would insist, to the person over the phone, that the product was faulty from the manufacturer as it failed with adequate maintenance and slight use.They would then give me the okay to warranty the item and send the old one back in a huge box of "warranty goods" where during more deposits of warranty items and shipping of the loose contents of that box would be further damaged. It's a mind game. You simply get what you pay for. In this case, it was a well thought-out plan of making the product fail in a given range of use and you were denied a replacement. I can't count on one hand how many hydraulic jacks or electric tools I was forced to warranty because of obvious signs of abuse. Not saying you used your product out of it's capacity, just speaking from the mind of one who had to judge the customers and the product.

I'd take that back to the store and DEMAND they replace it. It's so blatantly obvious it counts as 'unfit for purpose'

When guessing between incompetence and malicious engineering to fail, I would pick incompetence - maybe they just didn't predict this failure would happen.

I and a buddy where rebuilding a pump to clear out a hole filled with piss. I stood back and told him to just toss the pump in even though we didn't hook the outlet back up. It soaked him in piss in 2 seconds. I couldn't stop laughing good times.

Whenever I'm looking at one of those, I'm already having a bad day. Live long and pumpster.

Great teardown, loved the vid! But what about the "Lifetime warranty" what happened?

I just always wonder? .. Does anyone else watch AvE's videos for a sense of comfortable, intelligent influence after a day of working with stupid factory fuckheads? ... I do all the time and he restores my faith in humanity.

I used to process field returns among other things at a manufacturing facility for food waste disposers. This vajeo brought back memories.

Glad to see intelligence on KZfaq most of the time I know exactly what your talking about! The rest of the time I'm laughing so hard I can't pay attention! Love your vids!

Yep, we do that on purpose, life duty cycle are calculated. The vast majority of people won't try to find the issue because it has a warranty, or simply because ''hell it was 90$'' I won't disclose for which company I work, but in this day and age we need to do this to keep the supply and demand rolling. Its a questionable business model, but in 2015 you can't make money of the parts of your product to repair afterward, hell we don't even sell them since its all outsourced somewhere else. People don't want to pay for a quality product anymore so the answer to that is obviously lower prices at the expense of reliability, trouble is, even then, the profit margin is not huge and not really viable. So if we can sell more units by having the old one broke with no replacement parts readily available, we'll sell another unit. The way we usually do it is design the product as a whole and when we have all the parts completed for prototyping we pick a ''link in the chain'' that we will make weak on purpose, something like a ever so slightly thin seal so it'll leak, but its in the middle f the assembly so impossible to get to, a metal part that will break by fatigue, a wire or connection that will burn up after a said time. I earn my paycheck designing those flaw so yeah... Kinda funny and weird seeing that.

You don't know how much I learn, laugh and am in ore of you, that should I ever find myself in your neck of the woods... man your wife and mine will be best of buds'! I know I'll end up in the dog house for the rest of eternety, after she kills me, and that's before we start Uniforcation drinking of said "Canack - 'Stralain" brotherhood goodwill homerligde' ... as for you my fine learnard friend, keep doing what you do. Shmucks like me, Dyslexic to boot and are made to fell that way, well, I'll just say... "Your a F___ing Oresom dude!"

Also a permanently split motor is reasonably common for small pumps. It means there is no centrifugal switch to go wrong although their efficiency is crap and toque curves not much better. Hence only small pumps. I would be surprised to see one bigger than .75KW

I used an identical water pump for almost a year. At the point that it stopped pumping, it was taken apart and examined. The problems described here were the problem. Great pump though. It was solid and worked...... until it didn’t. Had to purchase a new pump elsewhere. This is proof that a manufacturer can’t save money on the important things.

Could you help me with my Megger? Just hold these terminals while I turn the handle.

So are you gonna make a second video showing how to fix it and/or make it (or a new one) better and more powerful? Why wouldn't they let you return it?

That capacitor circuit allows for reversing rotation too. It is seen in ceiling fans and rotation is determined by which coil gets the capacitor. In this case it gives good starting torque and assures the motor turns in the desired direction...

I own Morris Majors - built simple, reliable and robust...however, they wanted it to rust. There's a foam rubber bung under the front fenders which seems to be there only to cause terminal corrosion in the chassis...it meets that design objective admirably.

My buddy used to spockify fivers all the time. That could very well be his handiwork.

CSA rated? Thought the CSA was dissolved in 1864 or 1865.

Ave, thanks so much for making this video. I had a sump pump which ran beautifully, but exhibited these symptoms. Now I have a good idea why. I wound up replacing the pump with one from a different manufacturer, and taking the bad pump to the scrap yard along with other scrap metal.

Whirlpool cabrio platinum washer runs a seal on a hardened steel shaft and I only get about eight years out of the top bearing under the seal before it has to be repaired, but I feel like they know because they also sell a kit with the bearings , seal, and new shaft. So no matter what you are going to buy a washer or rebuild it, so you are always a customer

I'm just wondering why didn't you get a new pump with the lifetime warranty? What was their reason for not taking it back?

it'll light you up like a Christmas tree on the fourth of July XD

Separate starter and running capacitors are installed on motors that have centrifugal switch linked to the shaft of the motor, so that it switches to running capacitor when sufficient RPMs are reached.

Worked at a chevrolet dealership as a mech for a while... most blantant egineered failure was the replacement of a 25 cent hose clamp that would never fail with a built in "quick release" on the radiator hose on the chevy cruze... the only thing i can attribute this too is a engineered failure point... problem being most of them didnt quite make the warranty cut off which is a great thing to help teach them a lesson on a bullshite policy