"the tool's kinda useless if it doesn't fit in the hole" Thanks for the self-esteem boost, AvE!

Love the story about the hole saw. I did a similar thing. In the 70's I was a pro mechanic on Triumph sports cars. The Spit fire came from the factory with loose bolts on the clutch pressure plate. Rather than take the interior out ( the trans came out through the floor), I used a 1 inch hole saw to cut through the bell housing to tighten the 8 loose bolts then sealed up the hoke with the cut-out and silver silicone. 10 hour (book) job done in 30 minutes. Bob's yer Auntie!

Your little holesaw story hit home there, AvE. I'm a mechanic, the '98 Lincoln Mk. VIII has a 12" long bolt that holds the upper control arm on, the strut tower is welded to the subframe, inorder to change the A-arm, you gotta remove the brake booster and holesaw through the firewall and pull the bolt out through, under the dash... I swear, the way they engineer those cars is draw a chalk outline of the car on the floor and dump a 5 gallon bucket of various metric bolts in it, and that's where the bolts go in the design...

18-years experience R/C truck racer here, batteries are my jam. Last I was aware most lithium batteries ship with an 80% charge, which is about as much charge as you'd want to keep in a lithium for any extended period of time (weeks or more). As you said in the start of the vidjayo, lithium batteries don't like to be left sitting fully charged or fully dead, they prefer to be somewhere in-betwixt. In fact many competition chargers for R/C batteries come with a special "storage charge" mode that'll either charge or discharge the battery to a safe level for extended storage. Leaving lithium batteries fully charged is bad, but draining them to absolute zero is much worse. I'm noticing on some of the lithium drills & drivers we've got at the machine shop I work at, these tools seem to be equipped with a lithium battery cutoff because when the battery dies, the tool goes straight from full chooch to lights out. Lithium cells drop off quickly when they reach full discharge but not lightswitch fast. We've had integrated lithium battery cutoffs in R/C car electronics for several years that will detect when the battery is approaching full discharge and put the car/truck into a "limp mode" (so you can get off the track and out of the way of fellow racers) before shutting itself down completely. I have to assume toolmakers are seeing that allowing lithium batteries to fully de-chooch to a dangerous level (unsafe to recharge) is asking for a major liability lawsuit, so they're incorporating battery cutoffs as well. So if your lithium power tool suddenly conks out on ya from outta nowhere and no amount of trigger squeezing or reinserting the battery will get it goin' again, it's probably hit the cutoff. Nothin' t'worry 'bout, just plug her into the charger and take a coffee break.

Fluke was on ACV the first time you checked that battery.

4:45 She's working perfectly but you're measuring AC volts!

Where can I purchase my copy of "The Legend of Smellda: Quest for the Jeezless Clip"?

Diesel mechanic here. I have been pretty much using the the 3/8" brushed ratchet daily for 2 years now, no failures aside from the battery's plastic case falling off (Easily fixed with super glue). Oh and also, a couple days ago out of pure anger as a result of the directional control switch getting stuck, I began violently smashing the head of the ratchet against the step of a Freightliner. This resulted in the steel ratchet housing cracking. Thing still fuckin works though! I'm now wondering if all the coolant, oil, water, salt, dirt, ATF, and blood I have gotten inside of it has somehow strengthened the internals. Update: The switch is clogged with shmoo. Can only get half throttle out of the thing. Will attempt disassembly soon.

Well that had to be the tamest box opening ever. U feeling okay this week bud

Camshaft story was fantastic. Just had to say it. Made me lol.

You were correct about which is gonna break first... Granny was well pissed! ;)

LOL. I saw the triforce symbol... then started hearing the song. Thought I was tripping there for a second.

I expect that the installed battery is to avoid some of the transport of hazardous goods rules around lithium batteries.

As a Canadian I can say never have I heard more of a Canadian accent. So thank you sir!

Switch used is actually German: Marquardt. The company is specialized on switches and is also active in automotive business. Saw some Mercedes keys with their small "m" logo on the key.

Nice try with covering from switching from AC-DC 😏.

Your story about using a holesaw on the inner wing, we used to do it all the time on Classic mini's so you could get an impact gun on the flywheel puller!

7:00 I actually just warrantied my non-fuel version. It’s as you said, something in the head broke. In particular it was the pin that the motor spins to drive the ratcheting mechanism.

I bet Nintendo puts a claim on this video for the Zelda theme.

There needs to be a fluke meter that acts like google search. You: AC Google meter: do you mean DC? You: .... yes.

Drums in the deep....fly you fools!

If you don't discharge the batteries past half capacity you'll get twice as many charge cycles!! Wait a second....🤔

I would certainly like to see you rip apart a snap-on and test them all as well

I'm glad to see youre finally seeing the light of the brushless motors!

90 pound Filipino? You mean Michael Reeves?

You are by far the most original tool reviewer No BS. What you see is what you get. I wish you did more.

Hell yeah! I've been hoping for this series for years.

Heavy tools are durable and powerful but it is hard to overemphasize how much easier it is to use a lighter, smaller tool. These ratchets are for small assembly nuts, few would use them for lug nuts or high torque bolts. For chainsaws, cutoff saws, and hammers, heavier isn't always better....

"musta been something wrong with the connection". Yeah lol, ok.

This thing has a MOSFET and a diode to form a half-bridge PWM driver for the motor speed control. It's usually done with two synchronous MOSFETs to decrease the losses and increase the efficiency, but a diode for freewheeling is cheaper.

Really liked that story you told. Certainly something to keep in mind that sometimes a simple solution can be fairly unorthodox and that you shouldn't always be afraid to break past the prefab mold of the thing you're working on.

The hole saw story was similar to how you changed heater motors on late 70's full size Fords and Mercs. The "kit" was a stainless patch panel that you used as a template to cut the hole in the inner fender, then used again to cover the hole after the motor was changed. It was a pretty good solution to an otherwise labour crazy job.

several months back, I called Milwaukee to see if they recommended storing the tools with the battery attached and they said specifically to pull the batteries if the tool isn't going to be used for a while.

I don't have the fuel version, but I started out with the 1/4 years ago when they 1st hit. I use it for fender liners, bumpers, spark plug removal, intake manifold fasteners and the like. I bumped up to the 3/8 and it's pretty solid. I have yet to have an issue. I am a "260 pound gorilla" but I know how to proper use tools. I have an entire draw of just torque wrenches lol I love your channel, I've probably seen every episode. Keep it up!

THE MARGINS! Always buy cordless tools in combo kits on sale, or with free batteries as a bonus, or you are getting ripped off. :P

Been binge watching your videos for the past week and now i wanna build every one of my own tools lmao love the vidyas

Nice water hammer analogy. Drums in the deep, it’s been a while since I’ve watched LOTR.

Lithium ion cells like to be stored at 3.5v which is exactly why you found the pack at 10.5v. There are also DOT regulations regarding the state of charge allowable for shipping, but I don't think a 3s 18650 battery meets the capacity requirement of those regulations. Source: Am a battery test engineer.

Really interesting insights in these videos, like the condition of the mold. Neat stuff.

That was flipping fantastic and entertaining!! Thx

Can confirm, blew the head off my brushed one in about 3 months of auto use. I bought the brushed specifically for the smaller size too.

Always check if your meter is set to DC if you want to meassure DC Voltage. Saves you alot of troubleshooting...

Love the vid jay o's. Keep up the great work. Always look forward to seeing you in my feed. On a side note I have entered skookum into my vocabulary.

Excellent! Thanks for showing this.

Just remember those new to the game, if a component has two legs, it's not necessarily a diode, check if the tab is connected to the circuit, though not in this case as you can see its isolated and hence a diode as Ave said.

I have a lot of m12 tools(even the rotary hammer) and its exactly as you say- light duty. If you use them appropriately they're fine,but you can't expect them to drill 16mm holes in concrete or 100mm holes in in wood and expect them to last. There good for times when weight is more important than power.

I was wondering about these ratchets!!!!! Thanks for doing videos !!!

You are a professional at making me laugh with the “angry pixies” and the “homeless despot”

4:51 no fooling me. You switched from AC Volts to DC.

YES! Please do a comparison with Snap-On and the Harbor Freight Earthquake ratchet. Would be very interesting to see.

Cheers from Fort Mac! I come for the know-how, but I stay for the lingo! Great video - Subscribed, and will be perusing through your content library!

Quite a big fan of my Non-Fuel 3/8ths rachet....it is small enough to get into small spaces for work on my truck, SXS and other random projects. Couple weeks ago it sheared the crank shaft. Dropped it off at my local Milwaukee reapir shop and he said, yep we see these all the time getting warrantied.....they had the replacment crank shaft already in their shop as they fix so many. I might grab a Fuel version, but i was really turned on by the compact size.....I don't really care about the torque ratting, reef on it to break it and spin the nut off.....so well see how the second go around with this tool goes, first one lasted 2 years of decently hard daily use

Home despot on Father's day sells a Milwaukee kit with a ratchet, hex driver, "hammer" drill, hacksall, flashlight and 2 batteries with a charger for $200

As an mechanic, i can confirm the need for 2 elbows, 6 knuckles, and vice grip fingers. Also not being a small guy, i hate some engineers, usually toyotas. Lol

Smooo,ball bearings and Pokey bits! Best thing I heard all day!

Watching with captions is fantastic

Yes more test!

For the car repair story... Get the original work shop manual and read it. Especially the Honda ones are superb.

This is the first video I’ve watched from you and you have made my day! I was having a bad day and was grumpy when I started and was smiling and in a way better mood by the end of it. Had to hit the like and subscribe buttons. Keep it up!

AvE, this is the first time I've ever commented on KZfaq but Your videos are freeking awesome. Makita just came out with a 12 Volt CXT RW01R1 and it has both 3/8" and 1/4" head adapters and the head build is completely different than anything I have ever seen. Looked at their break down pdf and I was hoping you could get a chance to look at this thing. Thanks again for all your awesome content.

Hole saw story was great. My dad used to change spark plugs in boss 429 mustangs by drilling the fender wells out in the 70s

Those MCUs have standby currents down into nanoamperes (a nano is a thousandth of a micro), if a good micro is used and they knew how to program it. And voltage regulators have a ridiculously low standby current too now. They might be shipped with the battery installed in order to circumvent some hazardous goods classification? Separate batteries = danger, installed = it's just a ratchet. Like with the airline hand luggage?

For $5 American you can buy a 3/8" & 1/2" adapter insert bits for your impact driver or drill and save $150. Remember, every dollar saved NOT buying a tool, is a dollar more for beer !!!

Who could say "no" to AVE doing a deeper dive into these, and looking at a Snap-On version for our amusement/education?

So a shorter length of round hollow bar on the end of this one?, say 4' instead of 4 1/2 '.

What I reckon is happening with the motor driving circuit ( I actually am an electrical engineer XD) is that they are just using a simple chopper/buck converter to control the motor voltage, they don't need a full bridge since the motor is running in just one direction (the direction of the socket is switched mechanically in the gearbox at the head), and as such it would be an unecessary waste of resources/money/complexity to use a full bridge. I actually don't se anything wrong with the topology as long as the circuit and motor are designed correctly

Is that a first iteration of a flexure plate on the bench at the start?

Lol. When you couldn’t get that first reading, you were on AC on the multimeter!!!!

Yes please compare the Mac, Snap On and the Milwaukee 3/8 brushless ratchets.. No one has made that comparison yet! I have the Mac 3/8 and I love it but have nothing to compare it to.

Havnt watched fully yet, but I prefer the brushed do to the smaller ratchet head. Can fit in tighter places.

The look on that motors face when you turned it manually 😄

Long ago, I learned to let your videos play 'til the bitter end -- granny's hip had me dying laughing ;)

Next pixar movie, "Tool Story"

I know you have never heard this before but you sir are literally a genius ... no seriously

Had the same solution to my Ford Fusion (4cy) when replacing the idler pulley. Holesaw in the wheel well to access the threaded mount hole for the pulley.

IT makes me wonder how they would compare to the harbor freight earthquake 12 volt ratchet.

??? Matco is in Canada. I just warrantied my pry bar that I bought from him 6 years ago

10:17 I actually had to hit the spaws bar so I could get over my laugh induced coughing fit. Second time ever on YT. Well done that man.

Golf cart mechanic here. Recently made the jump from air tools to Milwaukee M12 series. They’ve been fantastic. For $199USD I picked up a three tool kit with charger and bag - M12 Fuel 1/4” hex impact driver w/ 4.0AH battery, M12 Fuel 1/2” hammer drill w/ 2.0AH and M12 brushed 3/8” ratchet. Indispensable in my profession. I try not to get too crazy with the ratchet, but there’s times when it will torque my arm around if I’m in an awkward spot. It’s got some guts with a full battery. The brushless impact is my main go-to and it’s small enough to get in most places. It’s rare that I need more torque than the ratchet can provide. The brushless impact is good enough to do lug nuts and large bolts on stuff. Once in a blue I’ll have to pull out a breaker bar or a Snap-On ratchet or something but it’s honestly quite rare. Very happy with my Milwaukee tools for the price.

A single 18650 cell wants to be stored at 3.6 volts. It likely drained .1 v per cell on the shelf. Not tea bag.

Snubber diode? I'm no pro, but as far as i know it is more likely to be called freewheeling diode, snubber is an series RC circuit in parallel to a silicone switch, usually triacs, mosfets or IGBTs.

I've used the heck out of my brushed 1/4" ratchet. Love it. Way smaller than the brushless. Only had one problem with it... the socket retaining ball came out

Reminds me of a story my Uncle told me. He worked as a mechanic for over 40 years. Had a job to replace the a frame. Suppose to pull the engine to do it. He said he just slightly jacked up the engine, attached a chain to a cross bar resting on padding on the fenders to hold the engine up. Then unbolted everything and snuck the a frame out the bottom. :D Did it faster than the book time.

You ned to keep them batteries between 80 and 50% not full charged and not dry sucked .

Running a non-fuel Milwaukee side by side with a snap on 14v. Which is way closer to the fuel milwuakee. I prefer the non fuel Milwaukee. Turning wrenches for a living the size matters way more than the power. That little ratchet is on my hand more so than my half inch Ingersoll. Dead nuts on the battery flexing issue. Do that constantly and cringe every time, definitely not how it was new but after three years she's hanging in there. Made me more money than I paid so if it grenades tomorrow I wouldn't shed a tear.

Good timing,been considering this one. Been loving the M12 series. FYI the M12 batteries are great for bench testing 12v stuff. The + and neg fit spade connectors well

Awesome video to do. These new ratchets are useful in just about any trade

Other than the need for a hose and compressor, think I'll stick to the pneumatic models from my dad's auto shop. They're still working after 40yrs though getting long in the tooth.

How much weight you reckon he lost since the kid eh? Those hands are startin to look a bit dainty...😂

Thank you! I’ve been waiting for your opinion on both of these ratchets.

i love this channel. always makes me think, and laugh. and now a legend of zelda triforce ref... your stock keeps going up sir

My 3/8" M12 fell apart like a Chinese motorcycle.

I've seen some comments about the meter being set to VAC for the first battery test. Yes that is the wrong setting but on most multimeters you should at least get some sort of a reading. AC meters can measure in a few ways depending on your setup. Some like my Crappy Tire special are probably average counting, they take the AC, measure the voltage spikes, calculate by RMS and divide by frequency, of course that gives very confusing values when measuring on pulsed ouput like a VFD but it will also read crazy numbers from DC supplies. My Fluke scopemeter uses a micro ammeter and a resister to measure current in a known circuit (either induced through the clamp or directly) and figure on the voltage very accurately using Ohms law, good for power supplies and other delicate gizmos, also self sensing AC/DC. I don't know what type my workhorse Klein is, but I know the insulation is good so I always set it to AC first if I don't know the circuit, if the numbers go crazy and bouncing around the mV-V range than it is a fair assumption that the control circuit on that piece of equipment is DC or the PLC is having a seizure. The only meter I've seen that wouldn't read anything when testing DC on the AC setting was a Power Fisted analog meter, it would read something with the leads hooked up correctly but nothing with them the other way, must be a rectifier in there for measuring only the + section of the sine wave.

I say go for the 14.4 snap off 3/8ths (the older style without the long head) then have a go at the 14.4 volt new model long neck 1/4 drive that will cover all bases. Great video! Keep the bolters coming!

Honestly, I've had that tool for almost 4 years. Now I dont use it like a breaker bar. But I use this everyday for work and I absolutely love this tool. I know it's not the same as the fuel but its suited my needs just fine and best of all, no cord to drag around

What the fuckover was that? Using your hands to open the box? Next thing we're going to hear is how good it feels in the hand...

Thanks for throwing the zelda theme in there, thought my emulator was still running 😂😂

Glade to see ya back looking at tools again.

I have the 3/8" drive Fuel ratchet. I've been pretty damn happy with it, and the size hasn't been a problem for accessing things. However, I primarily work on 7.3 and 6.0 liter Ford Powerstrokes, so there's generally a good amount of clearance under the hoods.

I am an electrician and I got mine in a set for $200 with two batteries charger drill flashlight impact hackzall all the crap. I use mine for disassembling and reassembling electric gear that we have to take apart to get through doors. worked phenomenally and cut about 5 hours off the time. plus didn't have any striped out bolts from using an impact. I didn't use the ratchet tighten the bolts. I used a box wrench on the nut. Glad I did that.