Thanks a bunch man I really appreciate that! It is certainly a lot of work to hold a full time job, a side hustle/bussiness, and trying to run a KZfaq channel to hopefully keep giving you guys entertaining videos in my free time but it’s Definitely satisfying work and because of guys like you it’s well worth all the time it takes cuz I can see that you guys appreciate it. Thanks a ton for your comment! 👍🏻

Haha thats pretty funny man cuz iv always had a little crush on these 12 and 15 series fords also! Very good looking machine. Thanks for watching!

Thanks Jimmy I appreciate that, she was really happy with it, she kept saying “omg it looks so nice now!” Haha. I’m always happy when the customer is happy.. I woulda converted it to a single stick valve but that’s not what she wanted, she wanted to keep the tractor as original to how it was as possible. Thanks for watching!

Thanks Jeff! Glad you enjoyed the loader valve repair! She was very happy and has yet to have a single leak or issue with the tractor. Those old Fords are good machines but your right, tractor technology has come so far over the years, stuffing more and more HP under the hood on smaller and smaller machines.. you gotta love a Diesel engine, they are amazing. If I could never own another gas engine again I’d be just fine with it, that’s why I bought my Cummins haha. Thanks for watching my videos!

Hey thanks buddy! Yeah I agree those cheap tractor supply valves are really great and work well for the price but trying to find their sweet spot to work 2 functions at once can be a little difficult.. it should actually improve with time tho as too break the valves in and work it a little more. Glad you also had a great experience with their loader valve! 👍🏻

Hey Ron! I’m going!! Maybe we can meet up buddy. Starts at 1am today I think

Thanks Bob, I was very surprised for a $280 tractor supply loader valve! Worked fantastic and I cools even work 2 functions at once pretty easily with the RPM up a bit higher. Thanks for watching 👍🏻

Thanks man, they sure are awesome machines! I believe most of them have a Mitsubishi diesel which is a good engine, we have a New Holland T1520 at work that I run daily and plow with in the winter it’s a good machine.. it’s the exact same machine as the Ford 1520.. the Ford 1220 is just a smaller version of the same tractor. Thanks for watching 👍🏻

@@BiffsEquipmentShibaura made the engines and the tractors for Ford. Just picked up a 1900 in Australia

Hey thanks Jean! Hope you been well and are enjoying your weekend!

Thanks Cale! Appreciate you guys watching!

Hey Sean. I did mention this above in the comments section why I used those 2 elbows and bushings.. I used SCH 80 which were very thick walled, burst pressure was over 18,000psi it said on the website which was why I used them.. also I only used those elbows for the feed and return lines.. for the main lines going to the loader I uses all hydraulic fittings aside From the bushings which were galvanized.. I used galvanized so it wouldnt rust and so it didn’t introduce rust into the system.. the tractor actually had a galvanized elbow on it already when I got it as well as a standard brass elbow which is a BIG no no as standard brass can’t handle these higher pressures so I got rid of that. I even talked to my local new Holland dealer he told me they use galvanized all the time when they have to. The biggest reason you wouldn’t wanna use regular pipe threading aside from their lower rated pressure is that their threads aren’t cut as cleanly and they can leak if your not using proper thread paste. I had zero leaks so I’m confident it’s gonna be fine.. also this tractors rated pressure is only at 2,500 and the relief out of the box was set at just 2,000psi as that’s where I felt the old valve was set so that’s well below the rated pressure of those elbows especially being that they are only on the feed and return lines. Galvanic corrosion (possibly) could happen but I find it unlikely with oils.. also they had galvanized elbows on there already and everything was fine and hydraulic oil was clean which was why I used those 2 elbows on the first place but ONLY for the feed and return lines. I had explained all this when I recorded the video but edited it all out to keep the video short on time and I kinda wish I kept it in the video. Thanks for the comment man 👍🏻

That's great information for us 1st timers. Thank you!! Trying to figure out a 3rd function for my tractor to run a grapple

Thanks a bunch buddy! Just saw you put out a new video as well, I’ll be watching it tonight!

Thanks buddy! When I dropped it off she said “omg that looks sooo much better now!” Haha she was very pleased with the final product. She saved a ton of money too she woulda spent close to $1,800 or more going to the dealer to have it fixed. I was happy to be able to help her. Thanks for watching!

@@BiffsEquipment Good on you brother. Kindness always has its rewards one day.

Haha yes I agree! It’s really the perfect sized tractor.. it’s just a TOUCH bigger than my Kubota BX with larger rear tires but not quite as large as your typical compact tractor.. very nicely sized tractor indeed!

Thanks Keenan! Hope all is well man! Summer has been flying by for me it seems.. glad to see the laundry mat bussiness is doing great!

Thanks Buddy! Hope you been doing well man! How’s things been goin?

Thanks man I appreciate it, I try to not skip over any details as I realize it’s normally the small details that can get someone hung up on something. Thanks for watching, Brand new video drops in about 45 min if you wanna watch it! 👍🏻

Haha it certainly is! A sticking loader valve is never fun specially when the person who owned the tractor is elderly because they may not know how to deal with it when it happens. Glad you enjoyed my video and hope you’ll stick around for more! 👍🏻

Thanks for your comment Mike! Sounds like your loader valve might be on the way out but on second thought if WD40 is fixing the issue then it sounds like it may just be the linkages that the valve controls that are seizing on you. Is this on a Kubota BX? Mine actually sticks going up too once and awhile but I think it’s internal on my loader valve. Iv been meaning to spray the linkages to see if it stops but I really think it’s inside the loader valve on my tractor because it’s only when the loader is nearing the very top and when I have a lot of weight in the bucket that it does this so it’s quite rare when it happens but does happen from time to time.

@@BiffsEquipment I'm pretty sure it is the linkage because it is ok until it sits out in the rain and the linkage gets a little rust on it. I try to keep it sprayed down so it won't rust. I have some O-ring seals on the fittings I think are leaking. I have a 1991 Kubota B7100.

Haha thanks Rick! Hope all is going well on your neck of the woods, thanks for the comment! 👍🏻

Yes this loader valve did have a float I believe. The loader valve I installed in my most recent video on the other hand did not. That loader valve was from eBay. Go check it out cuz if you enjoyed this video then you’ll really like the one I just made installing an eBay valve 👍🏻

Yes you could! Having a 3rd valve would operate another cylinder.. say a grapple cylinder or a cylinder on a 4-1 bucket. So absolutly you could do that! Best of luck!

Thanks Bob, If I remember correctly the one like came from the pump near the motor, or maybe both lines did.. either that or one came from the pump on the side of the motor and the other may have went back as a return line in the tank. I wish I could remember but it’s been awhile. You may be able to find a diagram online if you search around. Best of luck!

I would say it’s most likely in the loader valve as this is what controls your main functionality of the loader itself and it’s smoothness or jerkyness. I’d start with a new loader valve as they are cheap and pretty easy to install. This one from tractor supply was nice and smooth

Hey Bob, you did the right thing, you do not want to use Teflon tape with hydraulic fittings.. the only thing you’ll wanna use is a hydraulic thread paste made specifically for hydraulic fittings.. you can find this at your local Napa that’s where I got mine. That’s the only thing I ever use on hydraulic fittings and Iv never had a single leak using the stuff. If you go and find some of my other videos.. such as the “Artillian plow install” video I Believe I go into detail about what type of paste I use and why when connecting the fittings and threading them on. Best of luck!

This wasn't my personal tractor but yet this one also would creep forward quite a bit once I let off the HST Pedal. My guess is its prolly the HST pedal Return spring.. If you look underneath and find the linkages for your HST pedals there should be some sort of heavy duty spring that makes the pedal return back to neutral.. I would replace this spring as its prolly worn out.. You can also try re-adjusting the HST pedal as over time the linkages wear and they are no longer adjusted properly for neutral (or center) So there should be an adjustment under there near the linkages where you can adjust a bolt or a threaded rod on the linkages so that you can re-center the pedal to get it to come back or west in neutral again. I would def start there and also replacing any shock dampers and loose linkages.. If you do all that and its still happening then more than likely your issue is gonna be with the swash plate inside of the transmission which is a very expensive repair and prolly wouldn't be worth fixing. Best of luck!

You don’t.. it’s just what I had laying around. Woulda used grade 5 if I had them in the size I wanted

My old trailer was only 12’ long, my new trailer is 16’ long.. 12’ was always cramped and often I couldn’t fit what I needed on there and had to keep some equipment in the back of my pickup truck.. I’d say don’t go any less that 14’ to be safe but 12’ will work for the bare minimum wirh our a backhoe

90s were schedule 80 galvanized pipe which is fine to use as the burst rate is about 20,000psi.. the rated pressure is also well above 3k. They had one galvanized fitting on it before and even one standard brass fittings which regular brass is NOT ok.. so it’s def safe now. I only used those street 90s because I wanted them to be strong hanging off the sides plus I only used them on the feed and return lines which have much lower working pressure than the 4 main loader hoses do.. that’s why for the 4 main hoses going to the loader I used all hydraulic fittings. It’s very important not to use regular gas or water pipe nipples too.. their rated pressure is only 200psi as they have a seam in them.. always try to use all the hydraulic fittings you can on anything high pressure and deffinelty make sure your using hydraulic nipples like I did. 👍🏻

Hey George, I actually was going to convert it to a single stick but she for one didn’t want to spend the extra money and for two she said she’d rather have the 2 sticks on their because she has owned that tractor over 20 years and that’s what she said she was use to.. she woulda been confused with a one stick valve as she doesn’t run any tractor but her own.