Why ask anyone permission? It's your property?

Hi Brian, Boosterplug include a lot of information on their website regarding how the product works - www.boosterplug.com/shop/cms-how-it-works.html as well as a detailed version if you really want to dig into it - www.boosterplug.com/shop/cms-how-it-works-full-version.html which explains things better than we possibly could! My understanding is that the Boosterplug is idle at points where it doesn't need to interfere with the fuel mixture - when the feedback from the Lambda sensor is utilised. The addition of the external temperature sensor on the Boosterplug allows the temperature to be modified in line with the environmental temperature. As I mention, they do a better job of explaining it than I do! If you were to move the temp sensor and blank off the Lambda port, your ECU wouldn't be getting the constant feedback from the exhaust to adjust the mixture, meaning you'd likely be running rich constantly.

@@MotorcyclePartsWarehouse Many thanks. Downloaded the book from booster plug. Have idea now on how works. Just waiting for bike to be returned from dealer, maybe in 2 to 3 weeks. Have 6 month old Honda GB350 (CB350 Hyness in India). Had a metallic knocking when over 2/3 throttle and over 3,700 rpm. Got worse as revs increased. Took back to dealer, then a letter to Honda Australia with print out of short term fuel, never above -8% and as rpm increase up to minus 20%. Hence looking at Booster Plug. Turned out to have had a partial seizure. I am very careful, ran in for first 1,000 ks never over 1/2 throttle and then increased load gradually. I’m almost 80. Think will put booster plug on and if trips code in ECU, clear with OBD Scanner and put in a series of double pole switches. Or a rotary switch. As this bike has Euro 5 and all the latest where ecu checks difference when cooling off. Cheers Brian

@@brianrobertson639 we spoke directly with Boosterplug regarding Euro 5 motorcycles, and they confirmed that due to the new emissions requirements it will give errors/warning lights when installed, but sounds like you have already looked into getting around that. Good luck with your GB350, we hope you get it running right!

@@MotorcyclePartsWarehouse Many thanks for reply. Bike currently in at Dealers waiting for a new barrel and piston. Has had a partial seizure. Interesting to see what caused it following pull down when parts arrive. At this stage I am thinking overheated due to to lean a mixture. In open loop goes to -20% when taps opened. Shall put a CHT on the same as my aircraft. I’m almost 80, not a rev head. Changed oil at 500 ks, 1,000 ks , 4,000 ks and 7,000. Run in never above 1/2 throttle for first 500 the short bursts to 1,000. Besides that ordered a Groom Honda booster plug. And have 3/double pole switches. Will start using booster plug and when finished bypass BP back to normal as bike cools. Failing that with just use OBD2 scanner to delete engine light before service. When up and running will keep you in the loop re CHT difference with and without. Plus open loop readings. Cheers for now Brian Australia

Hi Cecil, Unfourtunately Booster Plug don't actually do one for the 2021 Interceptor Model. I'd drop them an email though, just in case :) www.boosterplug.com/shop/all-royal-enfield-108c1.html

Hi Herr, there is no chance of that happening with the Booster Plug. Hope that clears any doubt in purchasing. Have a great day!

@@MotorcyclePartsWarehouse thanks for your quick reply!

No problem! Always here :)

Sounds like a clutch adjustment problem to me. Possibly too much freeplay. But them bmws are so complex so i could be wrong.

Haven’t seen the meme eh… www.boosterplug.com/images/pc%20teaser.jpg

I think this is what happened with my Eu5 husqy701. I think ECU noticed it in 3rd day or so.

So remove the sensor from airbox, splice some extra wires to it to reach the front of bike, and don't forget to plug the hole in the air box where the sensor was, you know dust and all. So does this only work on cold days?

@@bernswonger57 it's not a good idea to mess with it at all. Just get your ecu remapped, and leave it alone.

From what I gather... The second temperature probe applies a (ambient) negative temperature offset to the ecu input to trick the ecu into thinking that that air temp is lower (greater air density) I.e. more air into the engine so ecu applies a corresponding signal to the injectors to increase fuelling, but only when in open loop control I.e. programmed but with no feedback of its actions from the lambda sensor, so only increases mixture when idling or rapidly increasing or decreasing throttle opening. When at steady throttle and load ecu is in closed loop control i.e. seeing the effect on the lambda sensor to reach desired value of AFR that Yamaha programmed. BTW performance air filters flow more air and increase volumetric efficiency in the same way that free-flowing exhausts, big valve free flowing cylinder heads and performance camshafts increase VE and power. Std air filters are predominantly designed to filter and be quiet, although noisier, aftermarket performance filters can add significant power more cheaply than the heads, cams, exhausts and can be simply fitted by a novice. With the fuel injection system having sensors to measure airflow, it automatically compensates the fuelling to release more power. On older carburetor engines, you wouldn't have seen the benefit of increased airflow until the carbs were re-jetted to suit the better airflow on a dynamometer.

​@@neiljarvis8911yes you're right, I took mine apart as it didn't do much when I used my AFR gauge to test it. I opened the booster plug up and it's simply a resistor with the temperature probe in parallel, so as you say it just adds a resistance to the existing temperature signal. It's a very basic unit and nowhere near worth the expense they ask for it.