Mine is not drying properly and there is water coming out of the front on the right side any ideas?

​@@paulb9769I do some white goods repairs and I've just bought one of these same dryers to repair, I may use for my own use or resell? I'm looking for any information before I thanks the plunge to try to fix it. This man is a great repair man and has done a great job. I think your dryer may be leaking due to condenser (evaporator in refrigerator terms or cold side) heat exchanger needs water ways cleaned so that accumulated condensed water can flow to the water drain pump at the back to be discharged, instead this is simply overflowing the drain channel. That's my best guess without seeing it.

Yea. I imagine that it’s the same as in microwaves. Most have the same insides.

all manufactured by haier lol

Faça um vídeo explicando detalhadamente como funciona essa secadora. Se possível com legenda. Meu idioma é o português Brasil, não entendi nada do que foi falado, mas me deixou curioso esse sistema de condensador para secar roupas.@@bootsowen

I am pretty sure that these machines will use way less electric in their lifetime than a heater vented dryer. If they both last as long then this type has to be more efficient.

The video was a year ago but nonetheless, thanks for your dedicated and detailed effort in this comment, I'm saving it for the future :)

I thought about pressure washing it from behind, but as you can see there are two elements and that would have been equally futile!

What did the technician say or do? Im waiting for one next week.

Well done

I thought the same and bought a filter, but there is nowhere to fit it, I think some (possibly older) models like mine just don't have that filter and others do. Since I have had it it has stayed clean. I reckon that the laundry that went through it with the previous owners wasn't always washed and was full of dust.

Mine has been working well since I made the video, over a year maybe?

The Whirlpool units have a filter in front of the condenser coils, while the LG units have a "flush" for the coils that passes water over them to rinse/clean them. I have a Samsung heat pump dryer that's only a year old and we need to keep the condenser coil panel open to let things dry out or our clothes smell musty, even though I've been meticulous about cleaning the coils after almost every load. I even have a portable vacuum cleaner next to the dryer to make sure as little lint as possible gets deep into the coils. It's just a really poor design on Samsung's part.

I like Miele too but I have found that buying them second hand is great value compared to new.

Cool, did you take it apart the whole way?

@@bootsowenyes, absolutely. Your step by step video gave me enough confidence to do it. A credit card is perfect for the fins alignement, instead of a screwdriver.

Glad it helped!

Right to repair ❤ I hate planned obsolescence and anti right to repair design too. The level of autistic behavior mixed with OCD I am takes care of the cleaning. I like doing it once a year

As someone who deals with both refrigeration and household appliances i can tell you they could have also just sold a condensing dryer instead of this engineering nightmare. It’s just about making it more attractive to customers because they can slap a “high efficency” or “saves money” sticker on it. Relieability down the line is their least concern. My advise for washingmachines and driers is Miele brand from between 1990 and 2005. For dishwashers get Bosch silence plus from around 2005. Those are one of the most solid devices i know with good reparability and high quality in the first place.

For got to add something… for washingmachine take Miele NovoTronic and for the drier Miele Deluxe T Series

My Siemens iq700 self cleaning 10 year's old no problems?

Been repairing these for a profession and having owning one i think these are ok though..you don't have to dismantle this completely if you don't want; each of the sides can be taken out also without taking other sides out; compressor and drum motor start caps are easy to replace; also water pump. Drum front can be taken out easily.. Also the drum.. One has to be careful with the door- and the condenser filters! (all models won't have the 2nd filter down there).. It'll clog if eg. the door filter hinge is cracked..I've cleaned my own with (having not dismantled it at all..) heat pump coil cleaner spray occasionally and it's still fine after 8 years.. This model in the video is one of the newer ones with only the door filter..therefore the condition of the filter is very important! The newer version from somewhere 4-5 years ago had a problem with base material curving/twisting and then when the blowing fan finally touches the collar it sticks there quite well..(customers usually say that the drum is stuck..) there is a fan and a collar available with more clearance and then the support block to try to prevent the further curving..at that point the motor base is often curved that much that you need to screw similar screw the covers have to in between the neck of motor and the base plastic (you'll see that neck when the fan blade is taken apart).. Compared to fridge evacuation/leak detecting/refill/etc. is a bit more of a work/time than the process of dismantling and putting this unit back together.. and having used one for years; it's very..very much better for Your clothes! The traditional condensing dryers blow so hot air that i've seen some materials deteriorate quickly and i know cases where some el cheapo pants have melted.. heat pump dryer has max around 50 deg. celsius (120-125 deg. fahrenheit) so very safe.. I live up north in cold climate so it's a great plus to be able to dry all we need throughout the year (i've dried many clothes with 'no tumble dry' sign because of the low temperature of my dryer) and drying us even cheaper than drying out the clothes just in the room on the clothesline since many people here heat their houses with electricity (or oil which is not the cheapest option nowadays in my country).. The same energy would go from heating the house and this type of dryer has cop advantage so maybe around 2-3 times cheaper drying compared to clothesline during winter if the house is heated with regular electric heaters; Air- or some other source heatpump heating takes the advantage away.. (some people though prefer the humidity the clothesdrying brings in the house..)

AC is not particularly common in the UK, so the knowledge isn't here. If I was doing it again I would use a pressure washer and not worry about it.

@@bootsowen I apologize for my lack of clarity. Think of heat pumps and understand they are AC. I understand your meaning though. Same tech and also why I made a list, though I should have said heat pump instead of mini split but I was worried that would have been more confusing. I found your video when I was searching for how the internals look in a Samsung Heat pump dryer as I recently got one in the USA. Works amazingly by the way, but I wanted to see what kinds of maintenance I would need to do and your unit was almost identical to mine outside minor differences in power cords. I have experience cleaning condenser and evaporator coils as I have a heat pump mini split and water heater already so I shared what I could to hopefully help. I noticed that UK can only order Simple Green online, but the idea is to use a degreaser. Using a all purpose cleaner/degreaser and let it soak for 5 minutes and rinse off can make quick work of the job.

As long as you get the dirt out to the front rather than pushing it in you can't really go wrong, a vacuum cleaner should help.

@bootsowen it's working like a dream today. No HC codes and it's taking half the time to dry a load. Defo sorted it.

One of my neighbors had this HC code. Turned out to be a restriction of the outside duct. We took a gas powered leaf blower and stuck in the vent to the outside. Covered his backyard in dryer lint. We guess the 90 degree turns caught a bunch of lint and slowed the exhaust that much. If the wife is home, use an electric leaf blower if you want her to stick around.

I think the more recent ones of these have another filter in front of the fins to catch the last of the crap. I also reckon that the previous owner dried clothes that hadn't been cleaned, like wet workwear, it came from a farm, so dust and dirt in there makes sense. I can't see you getting a 10 year service warranty, but I've been looking for a reason to eat my hat!

I agree with your post! What a waste to produce something, that will be clogged with normal use in a short time and then cannot be easily cleaned.

​@@bootsowenabout that additional foam filter for the heat exchanger. My model, like this one, doesn't have one. I'm considering sticking one in there anyway as I'm in the middle of taking the machine apart and the fluff inside the machine is unbelievable! This despite cleaning the lint filter after every use and regularly vacuuming the bottom one. What do you think of a second filter down at the bottom?

Thanks for the tips. This is a whole discipline that I know nothing about but I like to give it a go.

​​@@bootsowen You can use a gerni and pressure wash the fins

Could you post a video of what you did making filters? I want to do this. I bought the proper sponge filter but it is for a later model I think so it doesn’t fit my one.

I just cut a rectangle sized 225 by 125 mm simply because that's the size of air intake to heat exchangers chamber. It is made of regular synthetic sponge that comes with computer parts like graphic cards etc. I is about 8mm thick, I guess anything between 5 and 10 mm will be just fine. Just make sure air goes through it without much resistance. It will catch whatever dust made it past the original filter and eventually get clogged, so it's important to take the sponge out and wash away all contamination frequently. Oh, and please mind that dimensions of the DIY sponge filter may need to be different depending on exact model of your machine. Just finished reassembling, soon I'm gonna find out how it works after cleaning the inside... @@bootsowen

Miele uses a double mesh filter and a 5cm thick sponge filter. But for intense use... I'm not sure it would last. And the cheapest costs more than double what an Electrolux costs.

Sponge 30 PPI is ok?

​@@iordachenicolaev Mine also has the double mesh and sponge filter and still found fluff and dust in the heasink. What's worse, fine dust with humidity gets compacted inside the heasink so the only way to fully clean it is tear it down. I was thinking on adding a fine cotton filter in front of the sponge to prevent that fine dust getting in.

I don't think it was that much faster, I am using it daily at the moment, and allowing the blades to clog up again, depending on my mood I may take it apart again and give it a powerwashing and do the tests you suggest.

@@bootsowen If you do tear it down again, have a look at where the air might be bypassing or escaping the circuit? Seems odd that there was soo much debris loose inside the casing?

​@@madhucksFixed a few. Some have a bad seal between the lint filter and the hole it sticks into, some don't have a seal there at all. If the bottom hinge or closing side-edges of the filter are torn, cracked or poorly aligned, lint will get past the filter that way. Some filter units just have a bad, poorly thought through design that is inherently incapable of making a proper seal along the sides when closing the fold-out filter. Some heat pump dryers, slightly older Whirlpool ones especially, may have poor alignment between the plastic parts of the condenser housing, that the bottom secondary filter unit's seal presses against, forming a sharp uneven ridge across the mating surface of that filter unit's seal. And of that misalignment ridge causes more than a millimeter or so difference in depth, that sharp straight angle ridge becomes too much for the rather stiff seal on the secondary filter unit to conform fully to that surface. Causing a leak past the secondary filter that way. On the most recent one I fixed, the filter unit itself sealed together well, but there was no seal between that and the hole (the lip along the edge that the filter unit rests on). Just plastic on plastic with significant wiggle room. Not even a friction fit, so maybe an oversight in production; it sure seems like there _should_ be a seal there, but no sign of one ever being installed. I just cut to shape and stuck on some low profile silcone rubber seal strip for doors and windows, along the edge that the filter unit rests on. Hasn't seen any more signs of bypassing lint after 4 months of near daily use. But make sure you really clean the surface 100% first, and to buy good quality strip for this, especially the adhesive bit. As most such sealing strip is not really made for this kind of heat. The silicone strip can usually take it, but the adhesive on the cheap stuff tends to give up very quickly because of the heat.

We have a whirlpool heat pump dryer and it has the internal double filter in the doorspace but also has a prefilter before the cooling fins to keep them cleaner. I wish our Samsung one did!

@@pr0xZen what make/model would you fit/recommend in your own home if you was to buy one?

Glad to hear it!

The repair tech that worked on mine today said they were designed poorly. I have a whirlpool heat pump one and it has a LOT more filter components to keep lint out of there

they are made to brake. and both samsung and the store will claim bad maintenance. but its peactically impossible to maintain them

Thanks!

Are you drying it until it is completely dry?

@@bootsowen, yes. I am 100% sure that the smell comes from something like that plastic part under the 2 radiators from your video. My dryer is Beko, but I am sure that everything is very similar. The pump can't take 100% of the water and some water always stays. After time mold starts to grow from it.

ye but less fins means larger radiator wich means more gas and more material aka more expensive, it' a shit design anyway, a normal condenser is much easier, just pull out the rad, wash it, put it back, that's it, 5 minute job

It's designed to fail so you can buy a new one every other year 😡

I'm not a big fan of buying stuff, I think this machine is clean enough now. I hadn't heard of the foam until the comments on this video. If I had used the foam without dismantling the machine there was so much dirt that I believe it would have clogged everything further along.

It's a good idea, you must do a lot of work on these machines.

@@bootsowen I buy dryers and washers from folks that sell good, attractive units really cheap just to get rid of them, often during moving. I try to only take on machines that only need a proper clean/servicing, to mimimize the required expenses, labor and turnover time - but some needing repair do sneak past my filter now and then. I give them a proper full deep clean so they look spotless, take good pics, research some links for good reviews, price history and user manuals, and do a very solid write-up that by the end of reading prospective buyers feel invested - then post them for sale on used marketplace. In USD equivalent, all in all I'm usually out maybe 50-70 bucks on the unit, fuel for transport and cleaning consumables, a couple of hours of work, and bring in 275 to 350 on the sale. It's just a solo side gig, but the money is good and the market endless. Everyone needs a washer, many need a dryer, people like upgrading appliances (especially free standing ones), people are moving all the time, many are moving to where there these kinds appliances are already present - or simply do not have a car to move them around. And if you _do_ take on units needing small repairs, these are relatively simple machines so there's not really that many parts to go wrong with them. So fixes are fairly easy and don't require much skill, especially with KZfaq and google to help you.

I agree. I have pretty much taught myself how to do all of the repairs from reading and watching YT. Some of the electronics mystifies me. but I am attempting board repairs and sometimes succeeding, no repair person would ever do that, just a new parts swop. and for control boards and such it is too expensive usually. but as you know you can buy used machines for very little, people get new kitchens and want new appliances or renters move and the new place has appliances already. or they just don't have the means to move them. works for you. and it's always worth keeping a used item going even if it takes some time and ingenuity than throwing it out. good work!

let me know if you post some videos, I watch a guy in usa who posts videos about laundromats, but his brother has an appliance repair business, similar to you but maybe on a bigger scale. People love business/money/how to/repair videos, second income stream from YT?

Absolutely! I do microelectronics repair as a 2nd sidegig, from iphone pcb work to medical gear, and lesrned pretty much all of it from Jessa and Louis here on YT, plus eevblog and badcaps forums etc. So repairing appliance PCBs is comfort food :) it's usually fairly "rough and basic" electronics, and failure modes are very similar. Samsung washers for instance. Some of those machines are great performers, but notorious repeators for just 1-3 different failures/fixes. And often the warranty repair guys just replace the whole module but usually the new module has the same weakness. But actually fixing it so it doesn't happen again? Nah.

Steam might help, it seemed to be a balance between pressure but not too much pressure, If the dirt is damp then it washes off easier. I was tempted to give it a shot of the powerwasher, but I didn't want to bend it again. I ordered a new filter to replace the missing one.

at least a day my ass, it's the thumb rule, the time it require to rest equally the time it was tilted.

I have one. I reckon in this instance all it would do is push the lint and dirt further in.

Have you checked the elements and the bottom

I have, was hardly anything there and didn´t help removing the little fluff that was there.

I would recommend only drying clothes which are properly washed not clothes that are dirty and wet from rain. And cleaning the foyer and element regularly

Not on this model, I am planning to make one, but it takes ages for the fins to get clogged when you are drying clean clothes, so I might not bother!

Again 😂😅

No idea. Maybe a car ac place could do it if you took out the unit? It can’t be that difficult for someone who knows. But I’m not that person!!

if it needs to be regassed then it means it has a leak so your gonna need to fix the leak first

This model doesn't have that filter! Hence the buildup!

Not really, but there are compressor wiring diagrams on the internet. It is just a fridge compressor.

You have probably got sorted but for anyone else who does the same (I almost fell foul myself) - if looking at the compressor whilst standing at the rear of the machine (motor right in front of you) - White is at 12 o'clock, Red is at 4 o'clock, Black is at 8 o'clock.

I repaired a tumble dryer door once using draught excluder strips (for house doors). It is tricky to make a bodge or diy repair to a tumble dryer as they are perceived as risky fire hazards. If it's a heat pump dryer then I guess it is important to make a good seal, if a vented dryer then it is not really an issue.

@@bootsowen thank you. Yes it is a heat pump.

The previous owner tried to clean it with a hammer?

This machine doesn’t have any. Some do. Some don’t!

I don't think there is a sensor for that.

@@bootsowen hey mate. Just for anyone out there maybe come across the same issue. I fixed it. When shaking out the lint filters what I didn't know at the time, a magnet broke out of a place in the filter and came off. It's an earth magnet. The magnet opens a solenoid switch that is inside the case at the door side. Found another earth magnet to glue in place and it works fine. Took me ages to figure out 😅🤣. Hope this may help someone if they have the same accident with it 🤣. All the best

I saw the comb in the manual. This one was so bad if I had used the foam on it without dismantling I don’t think it would have done much other than clod it further along.

I am trying to find this spray foams, can you post a link? I'm living in Switzerland, but willing to pay whatever it costs! I have this Samsung dryer and no matter how much I clean it (even with needle!), you can see the dirt :(

Do you think it could be the issue shown in this video? Or do you think there is something else?

@@bootsowen i have to check the pump ( samsung b13-6aa01120) if it needs a replacement, cause i see a security mechanism on it that could prevent the dryer from normal functioning in case of water flooding. if that is not the case, i am thinking the extreme hot weather that we have at the moment, could? affect the thermostat in some weird way? no idea.

​@@g159713I have the same issue. If you find a solution, I would be glad to hear it!

so I torn it apart, cleaned everything thoroughly, still not working. no heat generated at all, cycles as normal though, without condensing any water. Could the coolant be the issue? Or any thermostat? any idea?

So I did take everything apart once again, this time the condenser as well, I put it on the tub and washed it extensively. after the condenser got dry, because there were still remnants, I set it on fire! Yes, the front unit I set it on fire and most of the remnants are now gone. Very clean indeed. The dryer is now working, in a funny way though. it gets the clothes dry, it's getting hot nice and well, however, it doesn't condense any water on the tray! Nothing! No idea why, thought that the coolant is gone, however I set it to run without any housing, and it seems that the front part is getting hot and the rear is cool. not that cool though. I then noticed that the cooler fan, that sits on the front right lower edge was not spinning, so I removed it and tested it, and it's fine. If the coolant was gone then it wouldn't get the front evaporator hot nor the rear condenser cool, but I guess it's not as cool as it should? no idea. any help will be really appreciated. the water I think gets evaporated and goes away from the dryer. the laundry room doesn't seem to have any significant humidity, but it should be cause the weather is quite dry and the window is always open. Any idea plz?

I have tried a spinner. They work but only on clothes that haven’t been over 1400rpm. I have a 1400 and 1600 spin. I reckon that’s about as dry as you can go.

Maybe.

Its working! Thanks Holes under condenser was blocked​@@bootsowen

Lol