Great video and explanation, thank you for sharing your knowledge to help keep it available for years to come.

This is an interesting video about the Borg Warner Overdrive. When I was young my father had a 1966 Rambler American that was a three speed column shift with a Borg Warner Overdrive.

Great explanation on the R10 overdrive. I looking at a Willys CJ2A to buy with one of these installed. Didn’t know anything about them so you video was most helpful. 👍👍

Fantastic Video and really helped me understand the overdrive. Thank so very much

Excellent video sir!! This has truly helped me understand my 54 Crestline more! I had no overdrive on the ride this morning and am trying to see why. Hopefully it's something simple like a bad ground. Gotta get under it to check!

Great Video! I have a 52 Willys Pickup that has a 289 & T10 4 Sp conversion in it (previous owner). It also has 5.38's in the Timken rear end (i know right - it's like a tractor) It has the BW R10 on it but it has never been wired up properly, as when i did it way back when; I never finished as the wiring for the relay, governor; solenoid and kickdown switch, lockout switch, as all was sort of confusing (I was ~27 then, i'm 64 now); ofc way back then, no internet. Mine also has a little square lockout switch on the end of the case to break connection to the governor. The fact the cable handle is almost always in, was also confusing... I kept thinking pull it out for on; I actually bolted an aluminum bar to the OD lever (to push and pull from the top) to reverse that, and yes I am going to remove it, but it seems it's all so automatic, the way you explained it is, that it's pretty much always in (on) and out (locked out) at low speed. My truck is 4wd so i will have to remember to lock it out (pull the cable handle out) before engaging the 4WD. I guess I was also confused about reverse... so if it's all automated and your below 28-30 mph; it's locked out anyway from the electrical side and reverse should be fine. I am sort of glad i never understood it in my 20's.. as I could have seriously done something bad. I love this Video btw.. great job.. I think I only need the relay, harness, KD switch (I plan on running that off the carb linkage somehow) to make it like it should be. The 5.38's should make this project interesting in the end :).

For cars that were built in the 1950s and 1960s a three speed column shift with a Borg Warner Overdrive was one of the most versatile Transmissions a car could have at that time. This was because it gave an over gear to first, second and third gear, turning a 3 speed transmission into a 6 speed transmission. First over was not really useful, because the car had to be going over 28 mph in first gear to shift into first over. So the result was 5 useful speeds.

Great information about this transmission.

Thanks for a great Video! I installed one in my 56 Chevy pickup back in 1984. ( back then I was running a 283 4 barrel , single hump heads) Sweet transmission ! I still have my truck.

Very informative video. Thanks for posting.

Very good video!! I understand these transmissions so much better now! I just bought a 60 Biscayne with the R10 in it. The previous owner hacked the wiring of the car and the transmission isn't wired up at all. Now I know where to get parts and tips! I'll be doing videos on the car on my KZfaq channel. Thanks!!

I park with trans in reverse on shallow grades, locks the drive shaft. My Ranchero and 57 convertible bird don't have the long shaft solenoid or spacer and no clearance problem(?) Full size convertible does. Never ever drive without oil in the OD case. R10s low power only. All parts are available for these transmissions. Been using T85/ODs in performance cars for many years, overdrive as necessary as front disk brakes.

Excellent video, really lucid and thorough! Feeling a bit less scared of the 55 Stude Commander project I just got sucked into.

What a great video thanks 😊

The kickdown switch momentarily grounds the ignition to take the load off the transmission so that the overdrive can “kick out”. It would be helpful to show the wiring diagram/leads from the kickdown switch.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍😎

I have a 53 customline with this OD and it quit working last year. This video is going to be helpful to figure out what's going on. Unfortunaley it's making a horrible boise so I'm afraid it's likely not a simple electronic issue.

Could you do a video on how to test the kickdown switch to make sure its operational

I'm glad I found this video I just inherited 52 Ford with the overdrive transmission my dad showed me how to work it but that was 45 years ago it sat for the last 30 years not running I got it running 6 months ago and the first thing I noticed was none of the forward gears would hold the car with motor off even went to Ford dealership to find out if they knew and of course they didn't 52 didn't have the computer to tell parts changers what was wrong.the cable is broke so I'm assuming it is in overdrive and afraid not knowing it was in overdrive I have ruined it is there a way to get it out without the cable working

Damnit! Where were you back in '75 when I put one in my '66 Impala? I sure could've used some help. :) Great video! And what a trip down memory lane! :)

Thank you

Been challenged with getting mine working - and this video might have just shed light on what I have been challenged with! I have not been able to engage the pawl - and I am now betting I need something other than a 1" solenoid shaft... :-( If impossible to come by, I will be forced to replace this trans which I really do not want to do!!!!

Just picked up 2 of these trans

You wouldn't happen to be able to make a video of the kickdown switch and all the original routing and stuff would you? Also where are the identification numbers on the r10 and r11s?

Could explain the holding contacts and how the coil flutters the engine and coil?

Great video, very helpful. Is it possible to fit an R-10 on a T-85 transmission? My application requires a torque tube and I haven't seen an R-11 that will mate to a torque tube. Is there such a thing?

what would make it try to jmp out of gear while in direct holding back down hill with the cable all way out and I have checked sll linkage and confirmed the cable is pulling lever is all the way forward

In theory, if I disengaged the overdrive switch and drove without o/d until in the 'top' conventional gear (third) at over 28mph THEN engaged the switch, it would automatically 'change up' into 3rdOD. However, would this be safe for the transmission to endure?

Quick question. I have a B/W unit separately spliced into the torque tube of my '47 Ford sedan back towards the rear end (not attached to the transmission like normally installed on later year models). As wired, there always is power to the relay, regardless as to whether the cable is pushed in or not. If the cable is not pushed in (i.e., OD is not mechanically engaged) does the governor switch still engage the solenoid once speed exceeds 28mph and is that bad? On my install I do have a toggle switch to cut power to the relay if needed. Thanks.

I'm trying to figure out what seems to be a common problem with the overdrives on old studebakers. I have a 57 E7 Transtar that has the Borg Warner overdrive. It keeps blowing the fuse after driving it successfully many miles or even just a few miles. Two things: I'm wondering if oil is getting into the solenoid from a poor seal. I do have a leak coming from somewhere on the back of the transmission. Transmission folks said that they all leak and that it's probably because of the old seals. This truck is in immaculate condition and is well taken care of. Still, I should be able to replace the seals, right? Or do I need to buy a whole new solenoid? The second thing I'm wondering is if the 12 volt conversion is throwing too many amps at the fuse relay where the fuse is blowing. It seems to blow when I give it a lot of gas getting on a highway. If that's true, should I put the 12v relay system you mentioned on this video. Possibly a third issue could be something that I've noticed. I know there are two wires going to the solenoid, but mine only uses one. It's still works, when the fuse isn't blown, and I'm wondering why someone would disconnect the wire and leave it hanging? The way I make my overdrive work is to get to the proper speed, let off the gas pedal and then give it gas again and it engages. I don't know how to unengage it other than downshifting and or coming to a stop and turning it off. It does go back into the slower first gear when I come to a stop. Fantastic video! It made a lot of sense to me and gave me confidence in order to do it myself. I am not a mechanic, but I'm not afraid to turn a wrench and test a wire or two. Thank you for any response that might be helpful.

Do you have the 3-terminal R10 solenoids (Studebaker) that shunt the points to make engine quit for a split second resulting in a seamless downshift?

How can I get parts for my 56 ford overdrive

How exactly does the governor work? Is it simple flyweights that make contact at the proper speed?

Can i get a different switch for the kickdown so i can just press a button instead of it being under the pedal?

Is there a way to lock it in overdrive and leave it there?

Hi I have an overdrive transmission That will not fit my Ford F100 1955 They guy i bought it from told me it will fit But it is to small for the bellhousing Number on it is 28 AF-7006-D Do you know were iy goes on ???

I have heard different things about locking out or engaging the overdrive. Some people say the cable should only be pulled out or pushed in while driving. Others say that it's ok to operate the cable while the vehicle is stopped. What do you think?

GOOD VID i remember the car but not the tranny. was the '39 imperial have the same type?

Doesn’t the R10 have 3 planetary gears and the R11 have 4?

Where do you source R10 parts? Hermtheoverdriveguy?

wow its not a bearing its a clutch