Nice work...good finding your channel. To the point!

Many years ago, I framed a house for another builder. He had started using Advantech for his sub-floors. I immediately switch to Advantech and never looked back. Hands down, the best sub-floor material on the market.

All very high quality tips! I began framing exactly as you described in the early 1970's. All builders/homeowners should demand attention to all of the things you pointed out, unfortunately many don't. Excellent video, well done!!!

I was building my cabin years ago (I'm sitting in it now). Used Adventech subflooring. We halted construction for about 2 years. The subfloor held up really well despite being open to the elements. It has a few wavy spots but I was impressed. We ran out of money for a while but living in it now.

Great tips Brad! Thank you for sharing them.

From the UK, love learning new skills and listening to how others build etc. Very well explained. Oh and btw, old school here, so refreshing to deal in ft and “‘s again 😉👍🇬🇧🇺🇸

Here's my 2¢. I live in New England so it's cold and a good R Factor is important. A 2"x6" wall is great for several reasons. 1. More room to install plumbing and electrical. 2. Greater strength. 3. You can put in thicker insulation. If you squeeze your insulation into a 2"x4" wall you've defeated the R Factor. Don't compress the insulation. I've built log homes to. Tom Dutkiewicz

Great tips Brotha Brad ✊🏼🧐!! Coming along nicely 👊🏼😎🤙🏼

My first house was built in 1963. I gutted the garage down to the studs. During the remodel I stuffed R-30 unfaced insulation in each wall cavity, top to bottom and on the ceiling and installed an insulated garage door. My drywall guy wasn't happy but he got it done. That was the best insulated room in the house!

Thanks for sharing your framing secrets with us ! I'm sure Flair and the rest of your customers appreciate your attention to all the details in building a top-notch home.

Awesome work!! Thank you. And these comments about 3/4 roof ply and all rafters at 16s… not sure why they do that. Maybe high snow zones? Usually people have regional experience. We should all be studying and appreciating each others work. To me you are a real builder. I won’t argue with you. I can’t. So thanks for the video.

Awesome tips! I like the care you put into the houses. Knowing what to spend more money on when it makes the difference

First of all, CONGRATULATIONS on surpassing 25K subscribers Brad. That is amazing. I know of channels that have been up for years before they pass that milestone! You've done it in 11 videos, so well done! Great tips, Brad. Living just outside of Edmonton, Alberta, I had to comment on the Wayne Gretzky comment! I remember well watching the Oilers vs (I believe it was) Flyers when he got 5 goals in one game, including an empty netter with seconds to spare. It was electrifying. It was around Christmas, if I remember correctly, because we had family there and despite it being so cold outside people were outside clanging on pots and pans and whooping, etc. after the game. If memory serves, that was the same night he achieved his 50th goal in less than 40 games (I could Google all this, I guess but I'll go by my old foggy memory, lol). That was the only period in time when I truly enjoyed watching hockey (or any sport really) on TV. After this time period, I found hockey to become more of a punch-up. There is a freeway in Edmonton named Gretzky Drive. Another fun fact was the young man with Downs Syndrome, Joey Moss, who was the locker room attendant for the Oilers. He was beloved. There is a school being named after Joey, that is currently under construction. There is also a major road in Edmonton named after his linemate Mark Messier. The Oilers have made Edmonton a HUGE hockey town, especially during the Gretzky time. I believe he was here for an entire decade of his career! That's nearly unheard of. I wish I would some day be able to build a home that is disability safe and accessible, but that won't be an option, lol. Disability doesn't pay well! I am very grateful that a single mom, I was able to buy us a home pre-injury. The only issue is that after having a spine/spinal cord injury our 4 level split home is a pain in the butt 😂. I would love a ranch style/bungalow home someday. If I ever need to do any renovations to a future home, I'm so glad to have your videos to look back on, so thanks for sharing. On top of your videos being very informative, you've got a very fun way of relaying the information. It's a great channel, so please keep it up! Heather🇨🇦

Awesome tips. The 8' doors are such a great idea

I know nothing about building a house, but I do enjoy all your videos. Thank you for posting these tips.

This is fantastic information. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. 👍🇺🇸

Absolutely awesome tips thanks for sharing

Thanks! I'm just starting the building process of a second home and these tips are great!!

Good to hear from someone who as been there, done that, and can tell us about it.

Great advice Brad! Thanks.

I used 2x4 wall construction with Zip R-12 sheathing, which outperforms 2x6 construction with uninsulated sheathing by reducing thermal bridging. Closed cell spray all exterior walls 3". 2" of foam sprayed on top of ceiling drywall and blown fiberglass for total r-60 for roof. Plywood subfloor instead of Avantech because it holds wood floor staples better than coated OSB. My blower door test was 75% lower than code but would have been better if I had noticed a couple of uncapped vents, like a 6" stove exhaust. I used laminated studs in long hallways and in kitchen for dead straight walls and for hanging cabinets. Those also help base trim maintain contact at all points to wall with no unsightly gaps or wavey trim. If I ever build again, I'd check every vertical stud opening for plumbness after framing and check all window/door jambs for proper overlay to studs for drywall. I had three large windows where drywall needed to be cut away so casings laid flat across jambs and drywall. Much easier to get out the cordless planer to address problem areas before drywall goes up. I live in zone 6 with very long and cold winters.

My house was built in 1971 and 2x4 structure. South Louisiana has mild winters. Need to replace 11' of termite eaten garage wall at overhead door including the top plate, fortunately sill plate still in good shape. Much harder to rebuild top plate to code when the roof is already in place and can only access from one side as there's brick face on front of house.

I’m a carpenter and I lost half my left index finger last year. I miss doing carpentry and I’ve had to have a career change but this is helping me miss is a little less. Thanks Brad 👌🏼🙏

I was a framer 25 years ago. Those poor people must be paying a fortune to heat their houses. For example wall pockets never were insulated. For headers we slapped a piece of scrap plywood between the two 2 x 10’s. 2 x 4 walls with an inch of foam on the outside. Nice to see things are improving.

I know exactly what you mean by the doors. My house is approx 70yrs old. It has high (I think cathedral ceilings, short on the front end and high in the middleof the house) ceilings and the doors look short compared with the walls. I appreciate all the tips and tricks you can share!!

No matter the window size. Always use a double sill. This for exterior nailing after window install. Figure it out

Love the tips can I ask why that opening from the mudroom into the main with the wider walls (2×8-10) wasn't spaced further from the wall in pose of the top casing? I personally think it's distasteful to have one side clean cut to have the other full bloom. Just a thought and genuine question.

25 year framer here. I can tell with one look that this guy knows what he's talking about.

I had a house with 10' ceiling and 8' doors. Looked great. the trim took a lot longer to do though.

A clean job site is a safe job site. I twisted my knee on a dirty job site all my fault, I hobbled for a year afterwords. I agree with you on the sheeting. Here in the PNW we get rain all the time and OSB will fatten up and you'll see it on the finished product.

How about the front door should it be eight foot or just use transom?

hi again brad glad to see your on top of your projects loved the pool video

As a competitive frame carpenter and perfectionist LOL . . I as a framer would have not placed a stud so close to the corner .. I always back them off if it's too tight . Another is material use. With barked material or chamfered . I won't use them as T's or nailers .. I want a good face for drywall . I'll find use for them elsewhere such as cripples that are sistered to jacks or jacks sistered to kings . 2 opposing barked edges make a sharp edged king/jack ..Our saying is " Ugly In " .. One thing that makes me crazy " Many things do " is walking down a hall and seeing a 6'-8" door close to a C.O . and they have the same finish height !! . In the finish it looks like someone forgot the hinges and the door .. I'll raise the CO up 4"-6". It doesn't look welcoming ... I've had builders in the past insist on putting the header at the RO height .. I like to slam them to the top and frame down to the RO for many reasons . One it is a better load pathway with fewer intervals , It allows for head height correction if someone mistakenly frames it too low. It allows for punch out work in the dry , It allows me to harvest braces and other materials which are shorter for cripples .

Our framers in Missouri us insulation on those spots. We hold our headers up to top plate and cripple down in mamy cases.. Great plywood floor...Advantech....

Great tips!

In norway we use 2x8 on exterior walls then after damp blocker we have a 2x2 then we put the drywall or other interior panel on that leaves us with 10 inches of insulation or 25 cm

Id hate to build homes like that. So much for simplicity!

All bark stud in garage, no bite. girder truss missing double stud supports

Great information!

Hello there, what size nails are required to nail studs to the plates? Are 3" good enough?

that is nice looking timber, in Au we have really crappy timber, h3 treated radiata pine from NZ, big knots

I hope that since there appears to be higher ceiling in the living room, as compared to the other areas of the house, that those walls will have boxing/sheathing on the attic side. I see too many builders that leave these open with just R13 or R19 insulation toward the attic which would leave those areas under insulated.

All great points you made and I agree 1000%!

It held up to the tornado pretty dang good! Nice work

Great job and impressive house!

Good tips!

In 2:33 it shows the 2x6 outside wall framing, right from the start I would not use the framing material that is the outside portion of the tree, you can see there is nothing that the drywall installer has to fasten to, that material is useless, remember the computer picks out the material to be cut into dimensional lumber, but is not programmed for all 4 sides to be square.

great vid i really like this im never gonna build a house but you kept it interesting

Thanks Brad!

Nice job , enjoyed and informative thumbs up and subscribed.

Love your videos, wish you had told us how adventec sheets are different from osb or plywood...are they plastic or something!

The flooring I was aware of but not familiar with a product name. The header construction is a new one for me. 2 good pointers.

What a skill you have ! Thank you for sharing (:

Love the Gretzky reference. 9️⃣9️⃣🏒

Very good info! Just found this channel. Brad - I had pretty good termite damage on my front door header and jack/king studs on each side. I was thinking about replacing the entire door frame/header b/c it wouldn't involve much woood. My front door is in a hallway so I only have about 1 foot on each side of the door. I cut the drywall back and what I have is 2x4 (exterior wall) then some kind of foam board then brick on the other side of the foam board. I cant see everything until I take the door slab and jamb out but I can see some very thin plastic flashing around the door frame. The house was built in 1990 and im sure there's been tons of changes since then as to what you can/cant use. Does code still allow the use of that really thin plastic flashing around exterior door frames or does it now require a heavier/thicker flashing like that peel n stick thats used on window frames? This is in Florida if that makes any difference.

Advantech is osb with more/different glue.

Awesome video, helpful

Great videos !!

Brad… you had me at Wayne Gretzky #99!! 😂

Nice work 👍well done 🎯

are you comfortable with the number of jack studs under exterior headers??

In high windstorm area you can’t use CA corners or insulated headers Door or window openings that are wide often call for lvl headers with doubled jack and king studs

I will never come across one you built, but as a 7'2 person, I thank you for building 8' doors as a standard!

I was a framer for 20 years and a finish carpenter for 20 years. We only built houses for the very wealthy in Rancho Santa Fe, Ca. First of all those framing corners are trash, we call them Ca. corners. I like the subfloor, I am not familiar with that brand though. The tall doors do make a huge difference, we used interior doors that were up to 9’6” tall and 2 1/4” thick. If you really want to build a nice home, do not use trusses (track style) build a conventional roof.

In my area we call them California corners, and I think California has some of the strictest building codes in the country.

Nice tips , thank you.

The one concern I have is the vertical corners left open to insert foam don't look connected with even blocks. A corner cracking later?

No this is a Real Builder! Those that work for the production home companies are what I call schedulers! Because that’s all they know is to go by the schedule that the company gives them to get the home done in a certain amount of time! They don’t care about quality or craftsmanship, I think some of them don’t know which end of a hammer to use! Great looking job sir!!!

In a climate as cold as yours do you ever use exterior insulation?

As a flooring installer i appreciate your concern about the subfloor conditions, bigger problem is usually the framing and beams, people dont realize that we have to get a floor down to an 1/8th inch in six feet, when the framers turn it into a roller coaster it takes me days to fix it all

Polyurethane (spray foam) is about R7/inch AT THE APPLICATION. You should verify the thermal resistance value longterm. Usually, it reduce to 80% of the initial value, therefore about R5.6/inch 1 year later. Verify the warranty. Great video. Take care.

Great video!

No arguments…great video. No bullsh..👍👍👍🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨

I've never framed anything before, and I just made the mistake of framing all the walls of my 10' by 12' shed with no bottom plates under the studs. Just studs standing upright on the floor, connected at the ceiling with top plates. Whoops. The exterior will be thin sheet steel, but still a bit heavy. Should I take it all apart and redo it properly, or can I get away with it? 😅

Hey Brad love the channel!! Whats your thought on OSB versus CDX plywood for sheathing and decking? Im not an OSB fan, I know its cheaper...Anyways thanks for the video..

Mistake # 1 Becoming a framer

Quick Question for anyone to answer, Does anyone ever off-set their interior studs 1/2”, so that the drywall on either side is more sounds proof? Are there any cons to doing this?

Your headers have some insulation pluses but what about when Mrs homeowner wants to hang curtains, draperies expensive window treats around those hollows?? And please don’t say toggle bolts etc.. those so called fixes rip right out .. we need solid framing at all of those openings. Maybe a layer of plywood under the drywall or plaster board?

I like that AdvanTech tip the most. If you're building alone, you are at the mercy of the elements. Question though: would you use the same brand for roof sheathing? Or it's not worth the money?

Great video

Brad you hit the same pose every thumbnail haha love your channel!!

Thank you for a great video

Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance. I'm often chipped by others for my attention to detail, but if you get it right the first time, then you aren't constantly going back and fixing things later, which will cost you a LOT more than 'fixing' it before it was an issue.

Hell of a wane at 2:15

A huge mistake my builder and I made on our custom home build came with our wood burning fire place. My fire box was not vented properly to the outside during framing and install. With the code requirements you mentioned Brad, our home was so air tight the fire box could not draw a draft. This led to smoke coming back into the house consistently. My builder attempted many fixes with no luck. I finally pressed on my builder hard enough to bring in a professional. They ended up having to install a chimney exhaust fan on their dime. I’m curious with Flairs fireplace, how are you working around that issue to ensure there is a constant draft? I was at the house daily checking on things and simply didn’t know better. I wish my builder would have known on the front end.

You can fill the header gap with styrofoam sheets cut inside

Got tear out subfloor in certain areas cause house sitting from fire damage

A 2x4 home with 1" foam board over the plywood is much better insulated than a 2x6 with comparable insulation. There are no uninsulated areas over the framing members.

Brad, with the R-Value being so high nowadays, how do you ensure there is a good draft to get the right amount of insulation while still maintaining a fresh air exchange?

Good video thanks

Id never use foam insulation as the off gassing is toxic. Also 10 ft ceilings may look nice but all the heat rises to the ceiling which is very inefficient for keeping humans warm at floor level. So many new houses are built for looks and efficiency goes out the window with extra high ceilings. Most people dont think about basic efficiency and how to keep it.

Thanks for the info. I’m in the process of building a home and these are very helpful. I wanted a 2x6 frame but my builder said with the options available I could also just upgrade the insulation with the 2x4 frame to help save some money. If there was a big difference structurally I would have to go with 2x6. Trying to pinch pennies where I can with todays market.

If you couldn't afford Advantech for your entire build but wanted to use it where absolutely necessary, what would that look like? Subfloor under kitchen and bath?

How do you insulate under flooring with raised foundation?

Fantastic

Tall walls and vaulted ceilings are not energy efficient

I love Advantech. It's very worth the extra dollars spent.

If I do a corner I insulate it as I go if you forget you could drill half inch holes and fill it with foam that way

Looks good to me. I guess the 3rd grader who built it was doing his best

No matter your skill or experience, you’ll never be as good as the average KZfaq commenter