The past several days was problematic with my Nissan 350z Brake system. Just as you explained, for me it was hard to really tell but, rear/front brakes started to lock up, slowing the car down dramatically. Spent $$$ on new brake pads/calipers/rotors. With everything installed, still had "that brake" stuck feeling (Brakes heated-up) while driving. But after watching your video it seems good logic to look at how each component works first. Anyhow...thank you for the well informed video, sincerely appreciate it Ram Man! Hope my comment helps anyone out there reading this whom has this same problem. May God bless you as well, Sir.

really good explanation, all logic all brain here, thanks a lot for this, a replaced the ABS module on my 2004 Toyota Sienna check brake lines, abs sensors, brake pads, rotors, But imma definitely check about adjusting the Brake booster or check about the master cylinder even though none of them have any fluid/vacuum leaks,or weird noise, thanks a lot for this video, I looked almost two days for someone to pointing out in the right direction with logic and brains

This is THE MAKING OF MY DAY TODAY, THANKYOU VERY LUCY FOR THIS VIDEO MY BRAKES ARE NOW LIKE IN MY MODERN CAR AND THIS PROBLEM WAS ON MY 64 BUICK WILDCAT, THANKS AGAIN MY FRIEND!!!!

Thank You for being on KZfaq! After not being able to figure out why my breaks worked fine in the garage after driving 4 to 5 miles the front calipers would start holding on. The futher you drive the more they would clamp. I had replaced The Vacuum Booster the M/C the front Calipers new pads and new SS flex hoses. Supposedly everything was supposed to match my car, year and model. I have been racking my brain checked and rechecked lines routing proportioning valve new everything. Then I starting watch KZfaq videos and still noting worked checked and rechecked until I finally came to your video and you metioned the rod lenth and the light came on! I took the M/C off and checked the rod lenth and sticking out against the amount going in to the M/C and it was 7/64" too long. Mine has GM non-adjustable, removable rod. Removed rod took measurements and turned down with grinder and file to give alittle space and put back together and "All Fixed" Thank You! Thank You! Thank You RamMan! My hair might grow back in now.

What a Champ! Thank you, just what i didnt understand but now i do. It worked as a charm.

Thanks mate, you have saved me buying new lines, calipers, brought a cheap car with a new master cylinder but who ever installed it forget to adjust the booster resulting in sticking brakes, thats why I got the car cheap, your a legend, thanks for the video.

God bless you sir that has helped me out so much

This video was very informative, and between the two scenarios covered, I’m pretty sure the problem with my braking system will now be resolved. Thank you very much!

Wish I had seen this a couple days ago. Good info. Very logical.

Great series, thanks !.

thank you help me find my problem master cylinder not releasing

Great video thanks for your time and knowledge.

Awesome info ,Thanks and God bless you too.

Good explanation

CLEVER GUY

GREAT THANKS

I think this is the issue with my truck, thanks