Note to self, don't jump over freeways during the break in period. Got it. 🤣

If your sxs is brand new......and you have to break the belt in softly, then by default you have to break the engine in softly at the same time.

Most people get them and haul ass from day one!! I believe as long as you do basic maintenance it will last forever!!

One more thing I want to point out about the break in process , the wearing of the engine components during this process is a part of how the engine was designed to perform, so in a sense it’s still being built for operation. Also on a side note I hear Can AMS have a tendency to squeak after a day of riding for some people, this can be addressed by using a grease gun, and greasing the fittings. There are videos on KZfaq showing you process. Amsoil also has grease for this maintenance too.

Great Contant thank you for your input

Like the video. I'm sure their is a science to it all. I hear of people having premature belt failures within the first two months of ownership. According to their own account they don't do wheelies, or ride aggressively. As mentioned in the video, I believe the belt does need to be broken in, in a way that allows it to function properly, and for the length of time it's designed to last. So their most likely is a particular way to approach it so that it doesn't prematurely fail. I have heard when you first buy the machine, you need to take it easy, until a certain point, to give it time for all of the components to work as intended smoothly. I have heard that when you first turn start it up , for a day of riding, during the break in period, to give it some throttle of varying speeds, but not in excess of 4000rpms to warm it up to proper operating temperature. I would say that has a lot to do with oil lubricating the inside of the engine correctly, if it's too thick, or too thin the internal components will lack the correct lubrication. ( Cold engine oil causes excessive frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls. A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures of up to 250 degrees, but starts breaking down over 275 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees. ) . . . ( Lubricants thicken in cooler temperatures, and the increased viscosity of the fluid can cause more engine noise and friction, which in turn causes your car to burn fuel unnecessarily. When oil is thinner due to elevated temperatures, there is increased risk of leaks occurring. Additionally, heat can lead to insufficient lubrication, which can result in the formation of sludge that may block oil passages and impede your vehicle’s overall performance.) . . . ( Break in period is the time it takes for a brand new engine’s parts to properly wear into each other. The seating of rings, wearing of gears, and grinding of bearings creates dirty oil and “breaks in” the engine. Performing this process the right way is extremely important and plays into the longevity and reliability of the engine! ) . . . Because the engine is raw, with brand new parts it needs to be broken in within certain RPM ranges so the engine is neither too cold, or too hot, extremes in either direction can impact this process for a new engine. Most likely the set amount of hours for the break in period is the time needed for the internal parts to wear into each other, so after this the engine can perform to it's full factory set potential. After this process has taken place, you want that oil out, along with any metal shavings from gears grinding during this process. So operating the machine within those parameters allows for this process to occur within the engine, so pushing the engine to extremes can damage the internal parts of the machine during this break in period. Most people don't take their machines apart to look on the inside of the engine to check the cylinder walls, and gears, and own them long enough to see the difference in how the machines perform years down the road, from that break in period process. I would say there are plenty of owners that push their machines harder than they should during this process, and don't know what is occurring inside the motor. ( Aggressive riding during the break-in period. The new belt needs to “seat” or wear-in to the clutch faces in order to be able to best grip the clutches and not slip. If you put a new belt on and immediately ride aggressively it is going to slip and create a lot of heat, thus greatly shortening the life of the belt. ) . . . Too much Heat breaks down the compounds of the rubber in the belt before it has time to properly wear in to grabbing the clutch . . . . ( “Take it easy” is the golden rule - no high speed runs, no hard launches, vary the speed, stop and allow it to cool a few times. ) . . . .Be patient . . . ( There’s more going on here than simply going slow on a new piece of equipment. The side faces of the new belt need to wear a little while mating to the correct angle of the sheaves. This takes time and is best done at low temperatures. Allow the temperature to rise too quickly, and the new CVT belt will become damaged during your initial run-in, so it’ll never work perfectly and require a replacement much sooner than if you’d kept to low revs. ) . . . . The common issue is that, the belt won't conform to the sheaves correctly during the break in period if it gets too Hot . . . ( Driving habits affect the life of your CVT belt. One of the biggest issues regarding driving habits, is using high range for all driving conditions. When high range is used in extreme conditions, it causes belt slippage and in turn excessive heat. Extreme conditions can be described as, slow speed over an extended distance, incline at slow speeds, deep mud, towing or plowing. Your owner’s manual will give clear instruction as to when it is appropriate to use low/high range. Lack of belt break-in time can also affect the longevity of your CVT drive belt. There seems to be a wide range of opinions about the amount of miles it takes for a belt to "break-in" (50-100 miles at approximately 70% power seems to be the average), but the common factor is the need to seat the belt. The belt needs to surface itself to the sheaves. Once again, if the belt has not "broken-in" to the sheaves, it will slip and cause heat build up. Follow belt manufacturer or owners manual guidelines. Use care and allow time for break-in before any extreme riding.) . . . Understanding what is occurring during the break in process, and why certain things need to be avoided, again so that everything is working properly, helps you approach the process more effectively. . . . The Brakes are similar they need to be seated to the Calipers . . . ( Newly installed pads need to seat in on the calipers and brake pads generally have an oily substance or other residue from the manufacturing process that needs scraping off in order to allow the meat of the pads to work properly. Therefore you need to literally ride and drag the brakes in order to brake the pads in properly. ) So you need to gently apply the brake ( drag ) while riding at slow speeds for 5-10 minutes, then stop, because the breaks get hot you want to let them cool back down. Then maybe repeat . . . ( Newly installed pads need to seat in on the calipers and brake pads generally have an oily substance or other residue from the manufacturing process that needs scraping off in order to allow the meat of the pads to work properly. Therefore you need to literally ride and drag the brakes in order to break the pads in properly. New brake pads initially feel like 50 percent of normal braking power even through a fully engaged brake lever or pedal. Brake pads gradually get more "grabby" and eventually, once fully seated, you can lock the wheel and prevent it from rotating. ) So, there is a reason for the break in process to be done the right way, so the machine performs, functions, and operates correctly . . . . Hope this might help some have a clearer picture of what is occurring during the break in process. . . . Like the video. . .

You need a few hours of running the engine at several low speeds to seat everything and it will create metal dust/shavings. I would not abuse an engine until there is new oil on it.

belt can be easily changed, engine -not so

My longest running 4 stroke motors just happen to be lawn mowers. As I got older I started to think .......how was I breaking in my lawn mowers? Well at full throttle from day one and these things last FOREVER!!!! So I now break my atvs and utvs after warming up ride em hard!!

Just bought a Can Am Commander. When asked about the post-break-in oil change, the maintenance people at the dealer said Can-Am no longer recommends this oil change, and to simply wait until it is actually due the first time.

Just got a new rzr and I have 50 miles on it right now and when I go into high speed gear it makes a weird noise does that mean I need to break it in more or is it just failing?

It means, drive lightly for the first 25 hours… after that, do an oil change and ride it like you stole it!.. 😂

Bought a 2023 defender and the dealership said no need for oil change until 2000 miles. This sounds odd to me.

So nothing on how to break it in.