The key here is using your body weight to control the center of gravity of the bike+rider. Footpeg weighting is a symptom of moving your bodyweight off the side of the bike. Gravity doesnt care how you are touching the bike, all that matters is the body's center of gravity relative to the bike's.

This lines up with a lot of what I've learned. I think a lot of new riders hear "weight the outside peg" and fail to understand that you have to weight the INSIDE peg to make quick maneuvers, but you don't stay on that peg as you make longer or sharper turns.

If we take a look at the most technical off-road discipline, mototrials, we can see that footpeg weighting is one of the fundamentals of off-road riding.

What you're doing is leaning the bike to the inside for more lean angle and leaning your body to the outside to counterbalance for which you're correct. What Brett was doing is keeping the bike more upright so he doesn't need to introduce any lean angle if possible and in his case to keep the bike upright his body was pushed to the inside, that's why his right knee was pushed against the tank on a left turn. HE is correct and YOU are correct. Two different techniques. I would use his technique during a bit faster off-road turns and I use your technique during slow off-road turns.

Honestly, I think the different techniques are BOTH/AND rather then EITHER/OR. Bret emphasizes riders employ a "weightless" approach with different techniques & body positions to control bike stability & improve confidence. These are starting points for learning how to receive feedback from the bike in various conditions that can then support more assertive riding by weighting the footpegs which requires the understanding of body positions to deploy mass. In other words, if one starts weighting the pegs without complementary body position to balance the bike, the see-saw may do what we don't want.

Going from riding a mountain bike to an adventure moto I was super confused by the argument not to weight the peg. On an MTB if you're really railing a corner, you put all your weight through the outside pedal, a lot like the counterbalance point of this video, and that really translates to the moto. I figured I was just teaching myself bad habits using the pegs a lot, so it's nice to see this video, thansk!

Thanks for this this Llel, I might finally understand this concept! I started trail riding a year ago and I've been very confused by this. I've been on training days with 4 different off road schools and they've all said something different. Bret's videos are great but that one confused me although I've been taught something similar elsewhere also. The first time I went trail riding (on an ADV bike) I was told to weight the inside peg to turn and then move the weight to the outside to balance the bike (no mention of weighting the outside peg). This was an intro to trail riding so they were giving us some basics to survive a day of trail riding. The next place (on a dirt bike) said to weight the outside peg to turn which on its own just turns you towards the outside. When I went to a more prestigious enduro school I was told to turn like Bret - essentially to turn in by going up on your toes on the outside peg and turning in with your outside knee and move your body to the outside (similar to what my back leg would be doing in a golf swing follow through or when turning in skiing). I found this difficult and confusing as up to this point I'd been turning by weighting the inside peg and pushing my knee into the tank didn't do a whole log for me except make me eat mud. I mentioned that I previously was taught to weight the inside peg to turn (and that's what was working for me) and I was told that that is known as "tip in" turning and is used more on ADV bikes - you weight the inside peg to tip the bike then transfer your weight to the outside peg as you lean towards the outside to balance the bike. They said to just skip the step and turn in with the knee. These guys also told me to go up on my toes when going uphill and the rest of the time have my heels down (I'm not sure if going uphill is an exception to the heels down rule). I've tried what Bret suggested but that really didn't work for me. Clinton Smout (who's often on Adventure Rider Radio) says to weight the inside peg (he demos by taking a foot off the peg and you'll turn the opposite direction). kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oNWCmMuE29KRcX0.html Until your video no one has addressed what I think is the missing piece of the puzzle for me, that speed and lean angle come into play which makes a lot of sense. For me weighting the inside peg makes sense to get the bike tipped into a turn. Also I understand that if the bike is leaned over you need to slide your body to the outside to balance the bike and also prevent the bike slipping. Sooooo, If I understand correctly then, I should weight the inside peg for course adjustments, gentler turns and say initiating a tighter turn. If I'm doing a slow tighter turn the bike will need to lean more so AFTER it is tipped in enough with inside peg weighting I would then move my weight to the outside peg as I would have had to move my body to the outside more to balance also? Having my weight on the outside peg at a greater lean would also help dig the tyres in and prevent slipping also. Sound about right or have I confused myself more? 🙃

I watched another YT channel explaining footage weighting rather than body position changing. Have been using this technique for last few months and off-road work as now so much easier. It reminds me of the technique used when skiing - moving weight from foot-to-foot brings about change in direction. I now feel way more stable cornering and negotiating off-road.

I love mini-tip Monday. I often do what you were doing around the 3:00 minute mark in the video. Basically maneuvering the bike just by weighting the footpegs. I need to practice it more. Thanks for the video!

It is great to see an expert explain and show the how too. Shame I'm crap off road.

💯% agree with your advice in the video! Weighting the pegs properly makes all the difference in handling the bike. I especially liked your information about avoiding excessive knee bending. There is much more control of the bike when your legs hold it.

I've tried to follow what Brett has said on the matter, and now you - but it's extremely difficult to separate what the feet and body are doing with handlebar inputs. Especially if you don't want to fall over. :D Even the physics can get complicated (and physicists love nothing more than simplifying things radically) because not only is the weight of your body, while standing, supported by the pegs (modeling this, just replace the rider with variable masses on the pegs) but once you start moving around the knees are pressing against the bike you have to account for those forces along with what is going on at the handle bars. I'd rather walk at this point! LOL

So basically I weight my inside peg to help initiate lean angle and turning but during the turn I always weight my outside peg for better downward force of the part of the tyre that has contact for better traction, especially on loose or slippery surfaces

Great video! I've been trying to apply these "knee pressure and hips way outside of the bike" technique without success. The bike just doesn't turn. And then I found some other videos (and now yours) explaining the peg weighting and tried it. It works like a cham to me! I have way more control of the bike during turns. Thanks for the content.

Peg weighting and riding in a position that allows light pressure on the handle bars is the key to riding off-road. Think of riding a horse, no handlebars. If you have too much pressure on your bars you know your out of position. Basically it’s when I know I’m getting tired and if I have to correct myself a few times I stop and rest.

You and Bret are both describing different techniques to acomplish the same task. I do prefer yours, but both work. To make a bike turn there has to be lean, there are different ways to make the bike lean. Countersteer and weight transfer of the rider alone. If you are one mass with the bike, then moving your mass will initiate the lean. If you are floating (seperate masses) then adding weight the bike 'sees' at the pegs (or any other place) will initate a lean. Street riders usually ride as one with the bike, and off road riders will usually ride 'above' the bike. This is due to the amount of surface traction available. Counter steering. When you do this inertia causes the mass to rotate around the center of the steering column. Front tire forward rolling resistance is increased by the rider input and inertia carries the rear mass forward around this center, the bike tries to fold itself up, causing the lean. No right or wrong, just different techniques to accomplish the same task.

Thank you Llewellyn! Couldn’t agree more. It is a tricky thing to explain the nuances of footpeg weighting - where, when, how much etc. Well done!

I agree with some of the other commenters here, body position is what matters. To take this to an extreme, go back to your example where you are standing on only one peg. Steer in a bunch of different directions, while only standing on one peg. You can do it. 100% of your weight on one peg, you can still steer a bit left, a lot left, or steer right. Footpeg weighting is a cue, and yes, biomechanically, a lot of good body position comes with weight moving between the footpegs, but that isn't the CAUSE.

I've tested the footpeg pressure method and it's brilliant. You really feel the bike responding. I combined this with keeping my body upright and working on heels down into the turn. Think I'm getting there! Got an off-road training course in two weeks. Crash bars, Barkbusters and Mitas are on! It's now or never!

Very interesting and informative, seems like a combination of the centered body over the bike and foot peg pressure plus moving forward and backwards to compress or decompress the front wheel when needed. Basically know what is needed and when it is needed and doing it properly. All very difficult for a newbie.

Llewellyn you make it seem so easy and short but this could be a much longer major tip video! add in the sitting, add in the steering with the back end. Such a hard concept to nail at times when at speed in the tight stuff but seems so easy to explain and understand. Another great topic and great explanation from you, thank you

Great mini tip Monday. Very well explained. Thanks

Hi Llewellyn! At times I’m practicing riding trails with one hand, skidding through gravel turns and such. On the rare occasions when I succeed, I forget my one hand riding and only steer with pegs. I would say that when I don’t upset the bike with a million contradictory inputs and simply do it all through the pegs, the bike seems the most satisfied 😃

This makes sense to me as I’ve found I feel much more planted weighting the outside peg. I also find myself going faster.

Foot peg pressure is extremely important in off road riding. In fact moving and placing your weight in different ways is the key to maintaining good control in all situations. A good comparison to how to weight your pegs is down hill skiing. What happens if you put your weight on the inside ski in a turn? You usually go down pretty quickly. The same can happen riding off road. You need that weight where you can make small adjustments to control the turn. While you can initiate a maneuver weighting the inside peg, control comes from weighting the outside peg. In short knowing where and how to move your weight and where to put pressure on the motorcycle is the key to maintaining good control and allowing good speed. Experience (practice) is the only way to learn this. It took me years of motocross racing to get this, but with a little practice anyone can improve their off road riding.

Excellent video and excellent content and instructional points. Switching from an Africa Twin DCT, I struggle with for weight management in a turn while shifting gears. Practice is the key I am sure. However, it might be a good topic for a future video.

Excellent video very well made, Thank you ❤❤

In a turn a centrifugal force acts to the outside of the turn through the COMBINED centre of gravity of the bike and your body. Shift your body one way and you have to shift the bike the other way to maintain a constant turn. Physics only cares about your body position with regard to what effect it has on the COMBINED centre of gravity. Stand with your feet apart and try to weight your left foot by just lifting your right foot. You will fall to the right. You have to transfer your weight to your left foot by FIRST pushing with your right foot to transfer weight to your left foot. If you try this with you hands off the handlebars the turn will be pretty sluggish. Combining a little counter steering with the handlebars and weight transfer on the pegs is more effective. Once you are in a stable turn If you weight the inside peg in a turn and fall it will be hard to lift your foot off the peg and step out to prevent it being caught under the bike. If your weight is on the outside peg it is much easier to step away from the bike.

Good one! I realise now why I was waving one foot in the air on the Lands End Trial last weekend!

I think this is great information. I've been using using this technique a lot and I feel that I've improve on some of the more technical trails in my area.

Good video. The important thing is getting the bike to lean while remaining balanced and floating. You need both countersteer and footpeg weight to keep the bike tracking correctly, and you have to transfer your own weight to the bike effectively so you remain in control.

If physics was taught like that at school, I'd have taken a lot more notice... Thank you, Professor Pavey. Safe, happy travels 👍

There is a school of thought that also says - weighting the OUTSIDE peg after when already in the turn can increase traction - especially travelling fast on gravel type conditions. I tried it and it seems to make sense. Of course you still need to weight the inside peg to initiate any turn - like you say. I also heard that 'dropping your heal' is one way to think about changing weight - which seems to be what you do anyway and that also makes sense. Hey I'm no expert though - and I love your explanations please keep them coming!

Amen - this is also one reason large footpegs are so helpful off-road. An easy exercise (and I forgot where I saw it) is to ride in a straight line and stand on one leg and then the other, and feel how the bike responds. That was an a-ha moment for me, because you could really feel how that could be applied to feeling “light” off-road.

From physics point of view lots of things are happening around a bike. It's not just pressure and weight and they are not the same. It's about controlling your bike and your self each by them self and both connected. That's where you AND Bret have your portion of "being right". Stay save and have a great life.

Weighting the outside peg during a turn helps leverage the bike into the turf, especially helpful in low grip situations. Same holds true with Mtn Bikes, weight on the outside pedal and low really makes the bike dig in. Same with skiing, you weight the outside ski in turns. The more your bike weighs, the less of an effect the outside weighting will have, but it will always have some affect. I think what Brett was addressing was the whole “Center of gravity/mass” thing, looking at the bike and rider as a unit. When I test an off-road machine, one of the key things I look for is how well it responds to “foot steering”. In my book, the more a bike responds to left/right peg weighting, the more I like it.

If anyone doubts the wisdom in this try and turn a trials bike without peg weighting. the little bugger will fight against you every inch of the way. Use the pegs and it flops round like a tired puppy. Quite a revelation for me. I was also taught to use peg weighting for evasion maneuvers on a road bike, really helps to speed up the initial turn and helps massively bringing the bike back in the opposite direction. Another revelation.

Thanks for this video! I’m a lifetime street rider transitioning to some dirt gravel roads on my AT. It’s a new world for me, but I found peg weighting really helped me ride more confidently in the loose stuff. Some commentators equate it to skiing which hits home for me.

Voice of reason!!❤ well done to you son for being a free thinker 👍🏻

u are right %100 and sometimes while turning counterstrike doesnt enough riding stand up and also u need push inner peg and turn easily so ı learn late but use inner outside peg is necesesarry

I’ve watched Brett s few times and he is a good rider but my experience of his videos is that he doesn’t know what makes him a good rider and he is teaching something he is not actually doing….. vote for Llel. Vote for: Pedro

I've done a lot of mucking about with this, and I don't agree. "footpeg pressure" seems to be a way of explaining locating you body's centre of gravity in a particular place. If you keep your CoG constant and vary footpeg pressure it doesn't do anything. It can't do anything. If you vary footpeg pressure and use the bars to keep yourself stable, the bike turns. If you vary footpeg pressure without bar input you must compensate by moving your CoG or pressure on the inside of your weighted leg, or you'll fall off. So what you're really doing if you weight pegs without holding yourself still with your knee, is shifting your weight around. Generally if you shift your weight around you'll put input into the bars without realising. So you're really just steering. PS, if footpeg weighting did anything bicycles would be almost impossible to control. The weighting jumps from side to side constantly. Yet I can ride around quite comfortably hands off the bars. Despite the steep steering head angle, short rake, short wheelbase and narrow tyres with the peg weighting jumping around like a mad thing.

There is lots going on when we ride, we can use peg weighting for turning AND traction. Bret with the high ankle, weight on ball of foot on right peg going around a left turn works too. In sand and when drifting, outside peg weight can be key to traction, Great discussion, thanks for the video. Love your bike too!!

The only way you can weight a peg is by shifting your body position, so Brett is correct that body position is what matters. The peg weighting is simply a result of body position relative to bike position. You may think you are weighting a peg without shifting body position and initiating a turn, but all you are actually doing is pushing on the peg and reacting that force with your hands at the bars and thus adding steering input. There is some transient force transfer into the pegs that occurs due to the inertial effects of accelerating and decelerating your body mass when adjusting positions, but that is still reliant on adjusting your body position.

Recently I've been spend a lot of time practising static balancing on my bike in my garage whilst winter rages outside, I had a real break through concentrating on foot peg pressure instead of side to side upper body movement which is still useful but combined with foot peg pressure I'm now able to balance for extended periods of time, no doubt its every bit as important when the bike is moving

Well, seeing how you and Bret, as well as Motojitsu are a world away from my skills, I'll just have to try and distill it all down to my level. But by all means, keep the content coming.

Agree, I see it as counterweight turning and it works well. Also I feel like the center weight is lower on the bike making it more stable than up on the seat.

A graphics Kit form Brake magazine for that Black Tenere world raid would be nice...

Excellent presentation.

A Reiman 1 has a great lesson about "relaxing the chassis"

Absolutely correct I rode ISDE for years and peg pressure is vital. I have found a other things he talks about is incorrect also . When I got my endorsement they teach things incorrectly also . Like putting all four fingers on levers for one.

As a motorcycle instructor in Swe, I've been learned to teach this way, 32 years ago. So 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Same said to us a guy named Francesco Meoni (rip) during a lesson years ago. You don't ride with arms... you ride with feet. You arms can't hold 200kg over bikes... nor 100kg for hours. As a skier.. i can agree. Is like skiing

Recently I got really confused by various tips on footpeg weighting. There are enduro riders that recommend the boot further back on the peg to allow for heel to be able to go up and down. Of course giving the bike throttle does not allow that as you then have to pull hard on the bars to avoid being thrown off the bike. Moreover, tiptoing on the peg does not allow you to change gears or brake. Then there is left-right weighting. When cornering I was advised to keep most of the weight on the outer peg so that when the bike starts sliding you are pushing it down and not allowing it to slide too far. However, to initiate an offroad turn, they tell you to push on the inner peg. Darn confusing when to put pressure where and at which point to switch from one to the other.

Well done, I use footpeg weighting all the time

Imagine a scenario where a motorcycle is moving at speed and its head stock is locked so the front wheel cannot turn. If a standing rider unweights the left foot peg what would you expect to happen?. The motorcycle will roll to the right. However since the steering is locked in the straight ahead position, there is no mechanism by which the motorcycle can actually track into a right hand corner so it will continue in a straight line, just tipped to the right. To achieve equilibrium, the rider would have to lean to the left in order to shift the centre of mass back directly over the tyre contact patch. Having done so, the bike will maintain a straight path, just tipped over to the right. Now back in the real world, with a bike that does not have its steering locked straight ahead, when the rider unweights the left foot peg, the bike rolls to the right, and as is does so, the front wheel and contact geometry is weighted such that the front wheel flops slightly to the right. This creates the necessary geometry for the bike path to change from a straight line to a curved right hand turn. At this point, the rider can start to unweight the right foot peg, transferring his weight to the left or outside peg. If this was all the rider did, this would have the effect of making the bike roll back in the left direction. To counteract the leftwards roll, the rider has to put pressure on the handle bars to stop the handle bars from rotating left. He is effectively maintaining the slight rightwards turn in the bars which allows the bike to track in a right turn. Consider also counter steering. At higher trail riding speeds, say 20mph plus, turning the bars left makes the bike roll to the right. At some point the rider has to turn the bars to the right (clock wise) to stop the bike continuing to roll too far to the right and achieve the correct geometry for a stable right hand tracking turn at the particular bike speed. However at very low speeds, say trials riding speeds below 10mph, the rules change. At these very slow speeds, turning the bars only (ignoring peg weighting) left will actually make the bike turn left. Counter steering has less effect at very low speeds. To demonstrate this, try riding at around 15mph then try turning the bars very slowly. You should find the bike will turn in the direction the wheel points. Then try the same motion but much quicker and with greater force. You should find this causes the bike to roll away from the turn, the wheel flops to the same direction as the bike is rolling. The rider has to intervene at the handle bars to stop the bike rolling too far and achieve a stable turn. The faster the bike velocity, the more reactive the bike is to counter steering and less reactive to wheel direction change. The human brain has to learn to make these adjustments i.e. that the bike needs different inputs at difference speeds and at some point transition from turning left to go left to turn right to initiate a left turn. So repetitive practice is needed to train the brains subconscious ‘muscle memory’. I could be mistaken, tell me if I’m wrong.

Bret's technique works better for him because license plates are smaller in the US. Adam Riemann does everything backwards because he's upside down in Australia. 🙂

The other thing is... you dont have to be standing up to achieve foot peg pressure. In the seated and squat position you can easily put 100lbs pressure on one peg or the other, keep your hips loose and let the bike move. No need to stand for 500kms of gravel road.

Agreed, I'm a big fan and student of Brett's channel and I've been to one of his clinics as well, but his video about foot peg weighting never made sense to me.

The most crucial time that I use peg weighting is for picking lines. Sure, your overall direction and turning ability is more important, but when I'm at speed in technical terrain, I use dramatic peg weighting to "guide" my t7's front wheel to favorable ground, with minimal change to the overall direction of the bike

I thought the purpose of weighting the outside peg while there is some lean angle is to help apply a moment force driving the tires into the ground, so that small losses of traction and disconnections from the ground are corrected more quickly, providing better traction and (more importantly) predictability in off-road conditions.

Yep , i follow Bret and he's a good fella and a great instructor .. but i thought myself that the weight on the pegs sometimes matters a little just because i'm used to do that while riding on gravel with my motorbike ... Thank you for the video from Italy

Some seem to suggest weighting the inside foot, others the outside foot to "put down" traction on the inside of the tire. I'm wondering if this isn't two seperate moments of inertia and force. Do we initiate an inside turn with the inside foot (heel down, as you show) and then, once in the turn, weight the outside to put traction stright down to the inside of the tire, the part now in connection to the track? Like countersteering on the road, the turn is initiated by pushing on the opposite side of the handlabar, but it transitions, and the turn is navigated with the pressure on the bars moving to the inside. Considering the inertia and forces are changing dynamically in both instances, dirt and road, while the traction is negotiated differently in each case as the turn continues. Does this make sense? Am I wrong? What do you think? Perhaps a follow up video?

54 years ago I surprised the DMV Inspector by performing a circle in one lane when he offered two😮. Didn't know I had been riding Trials for the previous two years.

Found this really interesting Llewelyn especially being a sportsman level rider, Rich T / Teamsnapper

Steering with your feet is a fundamental skill that must be mastered to stay upright when trail riding. To some it comes natural but I’ve had to learn it and am constantly practicing it in the hope that it becomes instinctive.

Great! Thanx! No doubt on that! Save riding for all of us! 🍀🙏🍀

I employ both methods. I weight the peg to induce lean on the bike. If the turn is minimal, I let the bike roll through and normalize at the straight. If the turn requires more lean, I use Bret's technic to lean the bike and open myself (my uppper body, straight arm at the outside bar and weight on the oustide peg). The point is to drive the center of gravity through the knob to ensure traction is maintained through the turn.

Counter balance also prevents the tires from sliding out from under you is loose situations!

I did some driving course and after practice time I knew that they taught me some things wrong. There are always better teachers than others. In Spain the best is CORA Canarias in those wonderful islands. I say this in case someone wants to combine tourism and fun on a motorcycle hehe!

Most of my riding is sitting. Most distances covered are over 400klm dirt roads. I move my body weight. When roads get crappy I stand and balance with the foot pegs as discussed.

The idea behind sitting vs standing is When in sitting position, the weight is up higher, the CG is higher. When the rider is in standing position, the CG is lower and the "ground effects" if you will the down force is LOWER on the bike compared to sitting. To turn or change direction off road depending on the "grip" or traction the rider weights the outside foot and the inside leg is out in front not to catch you but as a counter balance... But by weighting the outside foot while turning, It applies down force directly on the contact patch of the tire in contact with the ground in the turn... Best way i can explain it. Now depending on your tire choice will determine how good of traction you will get... now doing that on an 800lbs adv bike is something different but same physics.. Just my 50+ yrs of riding and racing dirtbikes...

for a long time I was trying to blindly follow Bret´s foot pegs weighing technique and I was still much slower in corners than some other riders. Two weeks ago I had a discussion about the foot pegs weighing and I was told that I am completely wrong. So thank you ! :)

PS. You are so much calmer than the man with a cap.

When snow skiing you weight the right ski to turn right, or is it the other way around. Haven't two planked since I learned to ride (board). Same principle, though.

Totally! This is so hard to explain, because if you've spent a lot of time on off-road bikes its totally instinctive and very different to fast road/track riding. Which is also quite different from leisurely road riding... If in doubt, get an instructor!

How's that Tenere working for you?

From a physics perspective (not including sliding or drifting to keep things simple) the "lean angle" is *always* the same value for a given speed and turn radius, at all speeds. It's the same angle for bikes, and snowboards and water skis and so forth. The angle itself is the difference between vertical and a line from the contact patches through the combined center of gravity of the bike + rider. If our ADV bike weighs say 500lbs.. the rider.. say 200, so the rider's shifting their weight only has a net effect of about 2/5ths. E.g. If the turn radius and speed dictates a net lean angle of 30 degrees, and the rider hangs off another 30 degrees their contribution to the total lean angle is only about 12 degrees (really rough math), and that's assuming the rider can hang *way* off the side applying leverage to the bike from a point near the contact patches, which they cannot. We ride in a position with fairly poor leverage on the bike, especially with both feet on the pegs. Ultimately the rider's real effect on the net lean angle is minimal. The problem is, visually we see a rider leaning one way and bike the other and because the difference between them is large, we think the bike is leaning significantly more, usually demonstrated in a tight low speed turn that dictates a larger lean angle anyway. Don't believe me? Set your bike up near a wall, (with a friend on the other side to help catch you) and then while standing on both pegs, lean your body toward the wall while leaning the bike the opposite direction as *far* as you can. At some point your body will be as far it can go without lifting a foot off the peg. Now measure the angle of the bike just before it tries to tip over toward your friend. I think you'll find the angle is quite small. Nothing about moving forward changes that relationship between your weight applied in a non-optimal location on the bike relative to the motorcycle's much greater weight.

Moto Jitsu mentions counter weighting quite a bit, especially in low speed maneuvers. It makes sense

Whatever input we can manipulate that keeps the wheels rotational mass traveling in the direction we want, at the speed we want, is the key but yes adjust our weight through the pegs or counter steering are fundamental to controlling a bike. Then, I'm the odd guy that doesn't use my knees against the bike, I strictly rely on the pegs, the handlebars and my body's position on the bike.

I didn’t see the Bret video but from reading the comments pushing the bike with you knees works great in slow speeds ir even fast speeds with loose traction but it also forces you to weight the outside peg as you push the tank. I believe it is combination of both if you want to get to a bigger turn angle.

If you want to turn left (on dirt/off road or at slow speeds to tighten a turn) you put weight on the right peg. Turning right is the opposite. This action is complemented by pushing the bars in the opposite direction. This then forces the bike to lean the opposite direction and you are then effectively a counterbalance the centre of the bike’s gravity when it’s leaning. I’m not sure a see-saw is a helpful analogy when it’s a simple matter of counterbalancing the bike laterally.

the point being its all about counter weight not peg weight but. the peg is just the attachment point of your weight, you only got three options be natural aka center over the bike or you can be counter weighted aka on outside of bike aka opposite the lean... or you can be on the inside or toward the lean... when it comes down to it, this all depends on the traction available.

From an engineering perspective the total grip available from the tire is equal to the coefficient of static friction multiplied by the normal force. So weight the outside peg helps to increase the normal force.

Hey there, thanks for uploading this video very informative 😊 I wonder if you could help me be better off-road rider, I have Africa twin and I just started standing but it’s hard for me to control the throttle while going up and down!! Is there a technique or anything that I could put into practice… thanks again

Don't know what the other guy said about weighting, but after spending 1k on high end wknd training and watching tons of instructional vids Ive found little on this subject! Your right on with this technique! Only other vid talking about this is Sedlack off-road school vids. I got a pair of Stegz pegs on my enduro built KX450 and it's like downhill skiing locking in and slaloming turns! Fun, graceful and very solid feeling! Keep up the good work!

Hi! I'm a beginner in off-road. And all the videos I'm watching are quite confusing. So, to my understanding: 1/ Very short turns (not a U-turn), quite slow pace (around 20-30 km/h) : pressure on outside peg (inside leg can be away from peg as a security guard), body weight outside turn, pushing the handlebar inside turn, sitting as much as possible on the front of bike. Position a bit like Supermotard ? 2/ Larger turns, faster pace: pressure on inside peg, standing on the bike. What position for the body ?

Man, I love this. I love that you called out Bret Tkacs. He's fantastic and his videos are fantastic, but there have been at least a few times when just didn't know all the answers and he chose to make the video anyway. That needs to be called out so that he can be better and so that riders won't be misled. It doesn't mean we don't love you, Bret!

I think his point is that it psychological if I recall. "Pressure" doesn't really change the "weighting." It's where you move your body. That changes the balance or "weighting." It's in your head. But if that helps you change your balance, then it's great.

I think you've dramatically understated the effect of steering input during your demonstrations here. While street and dirt riding are quite different, the No BS bike (look it up if you are unfamiliar) makes it quite clear just how much impact you can have on turning with body weight. In short, not very damn much. Everyone has a strong opinion on this because of perceptions they get while riding, but it takes some sophisticated science to extract steering from body input. If you had done your demonstration with your hands free of the bars I'd be more convinced.

The first tutorial on this subject that I saw was Brett Tkacs'! Then I went out and practiced what I had picked up. It worked for me extremely well! But I always practise doing the opposite to what I have learned. It gives me a great frame of reference. I found this one very interesting. It confirms for me that both of you are correct. Maybe now it's time for the nuances to be explored! Both have merit. Just depends on a whole bunch of small differences!

i think weighting the footpegs does have its place. but its definitely not way to turn or to initiate a turn ;

I would love your opinion on weighting the pegs to turn vs Kieth Code’s methods.

Yes you are so right and I can’t understand why someone would say different.

When I saw Brett's video, I knew he was not quite correct and I didn't think his body position and movement was proper. I proceeded to watch Sedlak Offroad school videos. Since he is a pro enduro racer, I presumed he knew what was correct. About a minute into your video, I knew that you were correct in your explanation. You were very diplomatic and polite in your correction.

Bret's a great rider and presenter. However, what you are saying is more in line with what another, ahem, notable ADV rider/instructor (Mr. Birch) teaches. I can't be accountable for all of the physics involved, but it's clear that the tools in the kit include counter steering, leaning and counter-weighting, and good use of the footpegs, with efficiency. I am 100% sure you're correct on that. In my experiences on the street, footpeg pressure takes on a little bit lower importance (at customary street speeds, with good traction). But in the dirt, in my experience, on any bike ranging from a mountain bike to large ADV, footpeg (or pedal, as the case may be) pressure seems to take on a larger (and crucial) importance.

And this was some of the basics from the ride training in class you do in Sweden to take your license..

Interesting. I’d have to go back and watch Brett’s vid again to see/hear what’s different. I do seem to remember his focus was more on body positioning for balance, and less on foot pressure for turning. But, maybe I’m not remembering it right.

But if it is about footpeg weighting, rather than body position "weighting", you would steer the bike by lifting one leg off the footpeg, technically, all your weight would be on the opposite footpeg. The way I understand it is, the bike is affected when I move my body towards the inside/outside of the direction I'm trying to go.

Use my pegs all the time...Great video!