Thanks for the video, great help. Just FYI to anyone else doing this - at 11:08 you don't need to cut the yellow wires. Take out the red clip and the white clip then you will be able to pull the pump all the way up and detach the white clip with the yellow wires without cutting.

Thanks for this video! For any future people watching, here are some more tips: 1) To remove the blade connector, use a flat head screw driver from the top and apply force if it is still hard to remove from the pulling from the bottom. There is a tab that makes it difficult to remove 2) Use a magnetic screw driver and also have cable ties handy to re-add after snipping. 3) As the video said, cut the first cable tie at the top of the water line where it connects with the pump. You may need to also use a flat head screw driver to lodge the water hose out from the pump (nipple?) as it might be a tight fit.

This is art. You are truly a Cadillac of men. Thank you.

Your video was sooo helpful, even though I was simply changing my pump motor and did not upgrade to brass; the video showed the detail I needed to make the exchange easy. I bought the exact pump replacement on Amazon. I did find for me, it was easier to leave the lower pump mount in place and unglue the device the wires attached to it in the machine, which eliminated having to cut and resplice the wire (11:30) as you did. The hardest part was getting the lower pump hose loose even after I clipped the cable tie. Other than that half hour wasted, I think I could easily replace the pump in about an hour. My pressure is back in the range it should be thanks to the video.

Thanks! Swapped out the pump and solenoid in one repair. Hopefully get another year or so out of the dual boiler thanks to your video material

Great resource, thanks Jake. Just replaced my stock pump and OPV with another stock pump and OPV per your video. Like others suggest, the glue from the thermal overload probe can be removed easily with long nose pliers prior to the removal of the pump (no cutting required). The probe can easily be reattached with hot glue.

For those of you doing this: unlike some other OPVs, this one allows adjustment without messing with the discharge tube. If you can find a way to make that OPV adjustment externally available, it would be a real benefit.

Great job!

Thanks for this, and also to your cameraperson! What video equipment did you use? The videography was excellent, with great depth of focus... Your video was fantastic and very helpful. Bests Chris

Thanks a bunch for the video, very well explained and shown. I am currently experiencing a weird combination of high pressure and low throughput of water through coffee (grind size or amounts did not change, just the resulting draw did) and Im trying to diagnose what might be causing it. Any ideas welcome. Also, my steam rod doesnt produce steam and when i pull the leaver it just beeps and thats it. Wondering if pump or boiler might have gone bad during the last descale?

Thank you, so, so much for this video! I don't think I would have pulled off that job without it - or if I had, it would have taken A LOT longer than two hours! - Sourcing the parts in Switzerland was tricky - but doable. Shipping took about 10 days until I had all the parts. (I used a combination of ebay and amazon.de - I got a 220V ULKA.) - Probably not a job for someone who doesn't know which end of the screwdriver to hold - but the explanation was so clear that I had the machine fixed in time to pull my mid-afternoon shot. - No need to snip that wire at 11:08 - but a whiole bunch of other folks have already meantioned that. - An assortment of pliers and snippers comes in handy. For example, getting a clean cut on the white plastic line was tricky - I'd recommend using either a cable/housing cutter for bikes OR a dog's nail clippers. (Two guess about two other hobbies ... ) - Before the repair, my pressure readings were all over the place. Now they're rock solid. - The machine runs a good bit quieter, too - and having an OPV I can adjust while the machine is running makes it SO MUCH easier to get the pressure I want.

Great video, really helpful. Did you need to empty the boilers before changing out OPV/pump assembly? And does setting pressure at 10 bar deliver 9 bar at the group head?

Nicely done! Don't know how I missed this. By the way Jake, did anybody point out to you that you do not have to cut any of the pump wires?

can you demonstrate how to dismantle hot water knob and valve?

What about wrapping and thoroughly securing the plastic component with a quality sound dampening/insulating material? as the goal is to lower decibels.

At 16:28.... The short length of tube you cut had a small metal insert in the end. I believe this is to support the plastic pipe and stop it collapsing when the the compression fitting is tightened. Could have been beneficial to transfer that over to the pipe you reconnected?

Great video, My old breville BES870 will not get up to a decent pressue, it seem to max out just in the espresso range after the infusion , I have tightened the OPV (right in) but it doesnt make any difference to the pressure . even with the blind basket shot. Do you think the pump may be weak or the guage is not reading correctly? many thanks

I have replaced my pump and OPV as per your video but now have water in the brew line backflowing through the OPV when the machine is idling. I think its caused by the water boiling in the brew line in the Heat exchanger section of the steam boiler. Did i do something wrong during install?

Thank you for the view. Quick question - why did you have to also replace the water pump? What was wrong with the stock one? Only because you wanted the brass one instead of a plastic one?

In the OPV note --> NOTE: This is a newer version, it is 64mm long, the smaller one used previously by VBM is no longer available. Did you use the 64mm long or a older version ?

is pre-infusion still working then?

That's vibrations pump ?

This is helpful.... I'm diagnosing my breviary Oracle. Seems to be stated pump issue. I'm trying to find repair info for this. Do you have any suggestions?

Helpful video, thanks. Could it take longer to get up to pressure because you switched a 52 Watt pump for a 41 Watt pump? Wouldn't this have more of an effect than the brass OPV like you described at the beginning of the video? Also at 7m it looks like you didn't use the metal internal tube support - was this intentional?

any difference with new pump from 52w down to 41w?

Would it be possible to swap the OPV without taking out the pump?

why not convert it to rotary type?

How is the new pump better? It has 1/1 min cycle. The old one has 2/1min pause

wow! Awesome vid! I am thinking about upgrading my NS Oscar II to this one and doing your mods. do you think that is a good idea? btw, why didn't you upgrade it to Rotary Pump?

minecraft Villager?

Thank you for walk through. And also.....Geeeeeeesus "uuummmm uuuum um uuuuummm ahhhmmmm um ummmummmUUMUMMUMMMUMMMM" 😢

great video but you umm and ahh a lot. I do that too when I'm teaching.. I can't help it either..

Ammm aa aahhmmmm but ammm good job

lol did you notice you say uhh and umm a lot ? haha