Ah man the website is down 😩

⁠same here

Our Facebook has our prices as well, we're working on getting the site back up. Webhost problems unfortunately 😪 I updated the link above to take you right to it! Our Google Map page has reviews if you're looking for those. Sorry, we're working on it! -Tom

@Great Outdoors Solar oh no problem things happen and sometime the hosts aren't even aware...so all is good 👍

It's back up!!! 😁

Thanks!

Thanks! We try to be competitive and we're normally 6 weeks out, however winter time we're booked solid typically! I need to find another installer so we can do more than one a week!

Right on!

Adam does some CLEAN work!

Thank you! Cheers!

I'll have my other channel (used to be I'm Not Lost I'm RVing) back up and going in a few weeks. Making content for it now. @ "Backatbase" is the hande if you're aren't already following it. -Tom

Can you charge up the batteries from an onboard generator? We have brinkley G coming in soon with a dual fuel gen onboard(5500watt*) wondering if it's bidirectional or could be made to do that as well with a setup like the one in your video.

The factory converter charges the house 12v battery when shore power or a generator is providing 120v to the converter. The generator doesn't reverse or anything to charge the batteries, it uses the 12v battery to crank (much like a car does), but it charges only via providing 120v to the factory converter. This is a very common misconception though and a great question! We disconnect the factory converter and install a hybrid inverter charger. The inverter charger is bidirectional and uses incoming 120v power (from shore or generator) to charge the batteries. However when no incoming power is available it pulls power out and inverts it from 12v DC to 120v AC. Factory charges are usually 40-50 amps, and the inverter charger we install is a 120 amp charger. So it chargers the large lithium battery bank we install much faster than the factory one would. The solar tries to charge the batteries all the time (so long as they aren't already full). I hope this helps & thanks for watching! -Tom

Thank you! We look forward to taking care of it for you!

You can do it!

Thanks! I've got 2 channels now. This one for the solar business and @backatbase will be the travel one. I've been busy the last few years but will be back traveling by spring time! -Tom

Thank you!

Thanks!

Shore power or a generator for 24/7 RV Air Conditioning. Or a big system like this and a mini-split AC.

Appreciate it! We're actually brain storming ideas for the channel relaunch on the main channel. Finally back on track to be back out traveling and making videos soon! Elyse says hello! -Tom

Great, we look forward to hearing from you!

A 24v (or 48v) system only starts to save you money on components around the 1000w panel size system or a inverter larger than 3000w. But 24v to 12v converters which power the majority of the 12v RV appliances are only about 90% efficient, pros and cons basically.

You're correct about the 2/0 welding cable. Whatever you do, don't go cheap on fuses or disconnect switches. You can save money in places, but fuses and switches are not it. Blueseas and Bussman are good brands. Since you went with welding cable it doesn't sound like you're going that route, but I like to warn people of common mistakes I've seen fixing builds over the years. Best of luck with the install and enjoy the project! -Tom

Wire size varies depending on the length and load. Since the wire size varies, the fuses for them vary as well. Although we can't offer consulting for DIYers via GOs. I am in the process of starting a separate business geared towards DIYers! So we'll have schematics and list for parts, etc. -Tom

Why do you assume that? If you're assuming the lithium batteries won't work in cold weather then I suggest you do some reading on actual temperatures lithiums, lead acids, and AGMs work in as the temperature range isn't much different. There are even articles showing lithiums vs others in very cold conditions and how they perform. Spoiler alert lithiums out perform even when cold. Plus our packages come with internally heated batteries that have a temperature sensors and a heating pad inside. If they are too cold to charge then they will warm themselves from the charging source. Not only that, but the inverters and solar charge controllers generate heat as a by product during operation. So they will help keep the bay warm under normal operation. I've had numerous Canadian clients and several who went to Alaska in the RV after we did an install and not a single customer has had an issue with the batteries getting too cold. Thanks for watching -Tom

Sorry, unfortunately we aren't able to help DIYers per our insurance. Best of luck with the new rig, I'm sure once you take a look at the Brinkley it will be easy to figure out. Good luck! -Tom

They put Rich inverters in, atleast I saw one at the Summer Show in FL with one. We can do a Rich inverter on a sub panel if you're interested (we are a Rich retailer). Simply feel out the form on our website for a quote if you intend to come to Florida. Have a great day, thanks for watching!

It totally depends on your goals for camping. If you plan to just use it for weekends or shorter trips then the 2nd panel will be fine. Especially if you're used to tent camping or conserving power. If you want to spend 7-15 days off grid at a time, then I recommend a minimum of 400w per person in the RV. Either way, the battery bank is the heart of the system and increasing the battery bank is the best "bang for your buck". -Tom

We're experienced with Victron, AIMS, Magnum, Xantrex, and Renogy. Unfortunately we don't have much experience with Mastervolt, so I can't give feedback. Happy camping ✌️ -Tom

The Furion panels are more expensive for the same amount of watts. You can also fit more 200w panels than 370w panels, aka more solar on the roof if wanted with 200w panels vs 370w panels. But if you wanted the Furrion panels, we can definitely make that happen. I've just found the proprietary panels are more expensive for the watts they provide is all. For example, I did a Grand Design in 2020 that had a Jaboni ~350w panel and they wanted over $850 for a second 350w panel.. then $300 in freight shipping. I was able to install 4x 200w panels for 800w for cheaper. Which gave the client more watts for less cost. In my opinion 7lbs isn't much on a big 5th wheel, that's less than 1 gallon of water or milk on board. Also we've never had any solar panel leak or come off so few extra holes isn't a big deal to the ton that already up there. 😁 -Tom

@@GreatOutdoorsSolar Ok, watching the video again I noticed that the fusion panel is wider so probably would not fit in spaces where the Rich Solar was installed.

Exactly, after doing tons of installs over the years I've found a 200w panels tend to fit the best on most RV roofs. -Tom

@@GreatOutdoorsSolar I am anti-holes, any chance of you using drill less Mounting Brackets?

On fiberglass and aluminum roofs we do. If the roof is a membrane roof (TPO or Rubber) then we use stainless screws and typically 3M 4000UV sealant. That's because the membrane roofs are held down by the seams and flex quite a bit, they even peel up when people get tears near the front and wind gets under them. We don't want to rely on a thin membrane to hold the panels down. We've never had a customer experience a leak and most RVs have multiple A/Cs and Vent Fans which are big 14x14 holes in the roof. Then you add in skylights and plumbing vents. Essentially the roof is covered in holes from the factory. Plus the seams run the length of the rig and front and back on membrane roofs. We use a very quality sealant to prevent water damage. We use it under the brackets and in the holes as well, not just a lap sealant over top like factory panels are typically installed. -Tom

Yes, we've done 24v and 48v systems. There's isn't really any gain from a 24v system with only 1640w of solar though. Since the RVs main consumption is in 12v. Lights, fridge, furnace, vent fans, Jack's, slides, etc. The 24 to 12 converter is only ~90% efficient. So you're using 10% more power. It also adds parts and tends to confuse RV techs. Atleast that has been my experience over the years of building systems with customer feedback. But smaller wire can be used and smaller charge controllers as well. The 24v and 12v inverters are the same efficiency as well. Hence why we typically do 12v systems on RVs. But we'll do a 24v if that's what you prefer 😁 Our website has a form to fill out if you'd like a quote. -Tom

Waterproof sealant.

Yes it sure does. It's a 120 amp charger aka twice as fast as a factory charger. Works via shore or generator power. The solar also charges it. So both will work together if the battery isn't full.

Although you could install a inverter on the generator pre wire, it doesn't have any incoming wire for an inverter charger like we installed. So it wouldn't of been able to charge the batteries from shore power. This way the incoming shore can pass thru the inverter charger and charge the batteries or it can create the 120v AC power from the batteries. Plus they can still add a generator later if wanted. The inverter is mounted where Brinkley intended and per Victron it can be mounted that way as well. We've never had a problem with over heating when they are installed that way. In fact lots of Class As come with a Magnum Inverter hung from the ceiling in a bay, such as Tiffin for example. Thanks for watching! -Tom

Most run water heaters on propane while dry camping. It barely uses propane and saves them on needing a bigger system. However, I done what youre refering to with a 120v relay on my 2 Way Absorption fridge so it ran on 120v when the SoC was above 90%. Left the fridge on auto, so when the 120v shut off (from relay signal from inverter), it auto went to LP. -Tom

Thanks. I am an EE and have been wondering about the water heater set up that way; meaning on above 90%. I manually switch the fridge to run the batteries much lower on travel days when we are destined for full hookups.

Thanks, safe travels! -Tom

We have a mobile tech that travels and does instals around the US. See website for more info. Otherwise, the majority of work takes place at the FL shop.

We don't set the prices for components, and since they can change quarterly, we update our website when/if prices change. It's easier for us to update the website than it is to go back and change a bunch of videos or edit them and upload them again. We don't hide our prices as they are right on the website, and as a small business, you're always welcome to call as well and get a real person to give you prices and answer questions. Thanks for watching and for your service. -Tom (Retired Deputy Sheriff)

Most people don't need that many watts when dry camping and following the weather. I've got well over 100+ clients that are perfectly fine with a 2400w inverter. Lots of them work remotely and/or run businesses even. I myself had a 2400w inverter and 3+ years on the road and didn't need a larger one 99.8 percent of the time. If my mini-split was on turbo mode and I wanted to use the microwave, it was the only time I'd have needed more. RV Solar isn't gonna keep up with a roof A/C unit 24/7, regardless, so it definitely isn't keeping up with a 4000w constant load. But we do dual inverters (both 3000 & 5000) about 1 out of every 5 or 6 installs. Which are mainly for people that want to run two large items at a time without having to shut something off. The majority don't think the additional cost of a second or larger inverter is worth the minor occasional inconvenience. Atleast that's been my experience. -Tom

It's definitely cheaper to buy a generator, but listening to one isn't great. Neither is pulling the genny out just to make some coffee or run the microwave. Especially if you have some bad weather. Our systems provide enough power to run everything in the coach. You'll run out of fresh water and grey tank space before power, so long, as you dont need the A/C 24/7. You can run the A/C for a few hours (not minutes) but not 24/7.. then again with generator hours a generator can't run an A/C 24/7 either 😎 Or you can put in a Mini-split A/C and our systems will even run the A/C 24/7 😬 Pros and Cons with everything. Our systems aren't cheap, but $50 a night for a camp ground at 365 days a year is $18k.. so neither is staying in parks all the time. Safe travels! -Tom

Generators are noisy and iterating

You can make your own bank using 280AH Eve cells you can have around 14kwh of storage for around $3200. They do use high end equipment in their package but knowing alot about solar you can save about 80% and make it a DIY.