also you can use a wet grout sponge to finish , with swirls and a gentle touch you can get a really nice even finish

I enjoyed that

Facts I have the same problem on my house it's 100 years old in Pennsylvania idk how to start I'm a rookie 😐 😅

Thanks for watching Lucas. Actually i did not cover it, i just misted it for a few hours while it was curing. You should mist it more or cover it up if it is in direct sunlight as that will dry the outside up faster. The prep work is always the worst.

Thanks for the video. I really have to do this for my house but am still kind of intimidated if I mess up... do you have any more tips or tricks for this before I try it? Could I try it this fall or would it be too cold? Thanks for the video man and any tips would be appreciated!

@@bigjknee thanks for watching, be careful if it gets too cold, you want to make sure the cement can set up. I wouldnt be too intimidated it is relatively cheap to do yourself but just labour intensive. Preparation is the most important part so clean the old surface really well and chip off the loose bits. Use the cement glue for better adhesion as well. Good luck

Robinson Custom Fab and Woodworking right on, thank you!

Thanks for watching Peter, any spray foam will work, mine was cheap, I used the one for windows and doors. You might need to place some hardware cloth in the hole first other wise the foam will go all the way down to the bottom of your basement. Don’t do it if it’s wet and cold the cement will never cure

​@@RobinsonCustomWoodworkingIf it's a foundation block, is there anything else that should be done?

2 winters now and holding up fine

Great this is good to know since I’ll be doing this myself and only want to do it once lol I’ll be doing this on the outside but I also have a basement wall to do and that’s my main concern because I’ve got to remove the old stuff to hopefully find some solid cement to build the wall back up and since I don’t do cement it’s scary to me lol

thanks for watching, the cheapest spray foam I could find

Thanks for watching and no I wasn't that concerned, no water got into the basement

YES!

It seems to be holding up well, so far no cracks. On the other end of the house I did fill the voids with 3/4 crush and some mix. I think the parging mix traditionally adheres to rigid foam around basement foundations. Stucco holds up well too against foam. Thanks for watching

@@RobinsonCustomWoodworking The repair doesn't have any structural strength when backed by foam. It's also going to perform different thermally than the rest of the repaired areas. Visually it's a nice repair, but you should reconsider the use of foam.

@@Loonypapa thanks for watching. what would you do?

@@RobinsonCustomWoodworking Three options: either knock out the front half of the damaged CMU and fill the half void with a partition block, or knock out the damaged portion and replace it with concrete brick, or fill the cells with grout. You'd think it would be quicker to fill the cells with grout, but it usually ends up being a lot of grout to mix up. So the go-to move should be the use of partition block or concrete brick. If you have a very long run of a course or two of damaged CMU to repair, then stagger it in thirds and don't hog out more than two CMU's wide at a time.

Thanks for watching, I sprayed water on it over the course of the night. 2 years later its still holding up, I am not a professional.

haha i cant believe you heard that

Boogered up 😂😂😂

Never use wire on concrete , never , ever !!!!!

So what’s the right answer. Why no lath with concrete ?

There is all kinds of different concrete walls that will need to be parched or stucco or repair due to crumbling I agree never need to put wire lath on a fresh poured concrete foundation wall or retaining wall especially with has a brick face pattern and the concrete floor panels but if you look on KZfaq under crumbling foundations I did a repair of a whole foundation for a lady where she had weeds trees everything growing out of her concrete basement walls that were 100 years old whoever mixed and poured it 100 years ago had Harley no semen at all mainly all sand in River rock so that situation I had to pull wire lath because the concrete was crumbling of the. The only thing that held it together wire lath £.16 cut nails and she went for the better job I use the Ardex concrete patch and it worked great that was 15 years ago not a hairline crack in the whole foundation if you want to look at it today two different situation with concrete walls even on smooth pour concrete walls no you only one that never hurts to use a latex bonding agent spray it on the wall where we got left mix a little bit in each bag of mud don’t put in your 5 gallon bucket of water whatever you got left out a gallon of bonding agent isn’t expensive and it never hurts to do the extra step

How many generations are you btother??? You never use wire. I'm from a long line of master stone masons from itaily. He fine with what he has done. He does want to mix it to a peanut butter consistency, but that depends on temperature. He is also doing a nice job of not adding the adhesive to the mix, not to mention he is diluting it. A little goes a long way. I'd abuse using a. Sand grit rubber float with a back hand motion with a tad of water to pull through some sand if you are pitching it. Kudos my friend!

thanks for watching, i waited overnight

I think I would follow the same procedure as the video, make sure its clean and you have a bonding agent

Call a mason

thanks for watching, so far no issues with cracking

if you've got splitting or cracking in "problem areas" you should use a wire or fiberglass mesh in between coats to add rigidity.

Off screwing up someone else's foundation.

thanks for watching and thanks for the tips

I apply the green painter's tape, pressed firmly to the bottom row of brick and then apply a strip of duct tape over the green tape. The duct tape provides a durable protection from the mud and trowel nicks and with the painter's tape under it, it pulls off at the end with no glue residue left behind on the brick and a clean straight line.

Could use hydraulic cement

@@johnnywadd7960 thank you

Sets up too quickly. I've used it, and not parging friendly unless doing a small area.

yes and sand

thanks for watching !

Then you have not heard of Kirk Giordano plastering videos, he is the master!

@@theloneviking9145 That's the one guy I've seen who doesn't scrimp on a repair. He's the Norm Abrams of stucco and parging.

Lol

What type of float ? Sponge float or steel ? Or rubber ?

@@Danny-ju2ip depends on the finish you're going for, hard rubber float would be ok

@@OffYourBackBJJ OK thanks. One more question how long after you apply the parge should you float ?

@@Danny-ju2ip depends what material you use if you put in anything to slow it down . On a hot day rapidset moray can be applied and then floated minutes after . Where you located?

@@OffYourBackBJJ upstate NY i was going to use Portland and sand mix