He needs to get a cantilever mount.

MrHuntfishdive Ha that’s the 1st thing I noticed.

True I forget what it's called

+SuperSneakySteve I just need to replace it, that one won't stay in place as I shoot.

@Michael Wolff I don't know. It was a cheap one I bought online quite a few years ago. It isn't marked with any branding.

Glad it helped!

what did you decide?

The wear marks definitely beat having a rifle or mag that sits in a safe and never get used!

Great to hear that! Proper prep is definitely key, especially if you are wanting to use it as a permanent coating and not just a replacement for Krylon or other rattle can jobs.

I've been pleased with it as well. Especially for the cost. It doesn't cost much more than Krylon, but I think it holds up better.

Awesome. It looks great. One question. Did you paint the faces where the receivers meet each other? I'd be concerned about this leading to chipping.

+Aaron Berger I did, so far I haven't noticed an issue, but other than cleaning I don't disassemble the rifle very often.

Ha! I hadn’t noticed that!

+Nehring they definitely look nice.

That's the kind of upper I want nothing for the pork cover no forward assist just nice and smooth with a slot for the brass to fly out. Current options are slim I thought about the aero precision 9 mm PCC upper might have to get the hole enlarged for the brass to come out but the rest of it's got the right shape and features

This seems to be between Krylon and Cerakote as far as durability.

Thanks for the input. I had assumed Cerakote would hold up better overall, but it's interesting to hear that they are very similar.

Also look into of course gunkote and norels moly resin as different options to cerakote. They are both bake options but can be done without an airbrush with the brownells options.

Definitely good options, thanks!

I'll look into that, thanks. It doesn't bother me too much.

That is one of the few places that will wear. The brass will gouge the finish.

Finally sprayed mine. It's in the oven right now. I'm hoping to get it back together tomorrow. Have you ever tried to respray any parts after they started to wear? So far the application went well and I had no problems with the nozzle clogging or splattering as some others have reported. That is a nice rifle I hope over time mine holds up as well!

They didn’t have that available when I was trying out the Coyote color. I’m curious how much better the Magpul color matches.

+Munky332 it was applied through the spray can the Alumahyde comes in and cured for about a week before reassembly.

I want to say that FDE wasn't available when I originally bought this, but I've been happy with it and wouldn't be opposed to trying out the FDE color.

That's a great option if you are going the baking route. There is some convenience of using the no bake sprays, but they may not be quite as durable in the long run.

I think it's good to note that Gunkote requires a blast or aggressive surface prep. I'm guessing Alumahyde II benefits from a proper surface prep also, as they show the item coated in the white in the instructional video. The appeal to Alumahyde II is no need to blast, and multi-surface capability: plastics, woods, metals. Gunkote can be used on metals, and I believe plastics, but I'm not sure if it's compatible with wood? It probably is but would yield less than stellar results unless you sealed the wood grain with a expoxy and prepared the surface for coating.

Is cerakote the best?

@@Or3guns it's pretty damn hard to beat... apart from getting someone to apply it correctly

Good advice!

i don't know why people tell others to get extra nozzles....if for some reason the nozzle starts clogging you hold the can upside down spray the paint for a few seconds until it comes out clear,then you shake the can about 20 seconds and it will go back to spraying normally without wasting money on more nozzles,yall are welcome lol... after you do the process make sure to spray a test area for a few seconds to give the air time to get out so that you are not spraying splatters

@@getbrainseeds sometimes the nozzle get plugged up, if you’re spraying you don’t have time to clean out the plugged nozzle, so you grab another to finish that coat, when you’re done spraying, then you can clean out the plugged nozzles, or throw them away whatever works for you. Some paints have to have a second coat while the first is still tacky. Personally, I always like to have my bases covered, I wouldn’t want to ruin a perfect paint job over a plugged nozzle. Just saying, it’s how I do it, maybe not for everyone. 🤷🏽‍♂️

Sanding or sandblasting is a good idea before a paint job. Parkerizing as a surface treatment creates a lot of texture for a spray on coating to adhere to, so it is a pretty good base on it's own.

That prep work really helps with long term durability.

I believe it was 3-4 coats depending on the location. A little lighter in areas where fit would be important.

I do think it is more durable than bluing, but not necessarily as durable as Cerakote or some of the other modern coatings like DLC. It can go over polymer parts. I didn't paint any of the internal parts as I didn't want to worry about changing tolerances, but I didn't tape off some of the interior areas either. There was some overspray that I let get into the magwell, which has been wearing pretty quickly.

Hahahaha it’s pretty epic 🤣

Thanks, I own a few guns that I don't shoot as much as I would like, but everything I own is there to shoot. No safe queens at my house!

It shouldn’t ideally but that one having a solid base it will be fine , but if it was two separate bases and one was on hand guard pic rail it could throw off point of impact. Also ARs are 1-3moa carbines not long range precision rifles where it would ever effect the accuracy enough to matter if the whole scope was mounted to the hand guard even unless it was a super cheep rail and had a lot of flex most rails are very stable compared to a cantilever ak optic mount it would be miles ahead haha.

Unless you want it to. It's not a issue. If you notice if he did, the eyepiece would be halfway up the buffer tube

Yes, the color fill was after painting and cute time. I was a little more careful with rubbing off the excess color fill with the finished paint job.

@@AdventureColorado ok gotcha thanks for the response

And nice vid review!!!

I added the marks back with a paint pen, I have an older video on the process here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Zql7eLZo1bHakac.html

From reading the comments I see now that your barrel didn't fit in the oven. I guess that must be a factor.

It is possible to add a clear layer, Brownells sells a matte clear Alumahyde, bit.ly/2YGsAz1

the best coating i ever did on a firearm was using high temp engine paint, the trick is to buy the hardener spray they make for them hydrographic kits that hydrographic hardener stuff...works even better then cerakote just try to do the least amount of spraying as possible and i can literally not scratch the finish and it's 4 years of monthly use at the range.... engine paint with hydrographics hardener spray has been the best finish for me and ive tried it all cerakote/duracoat/spray paint/epoxy sprays like aluma-hide.....none of them hold as long as the engine paint with hardener

I did bake the Alumahyde on the magazines, there are some pictures here: theblackrifle.blogspot.com/2012/01/aluma-hyde-ii-and-magpul-flat-dark.html#!/2012/01/aluma-hyde-ii-and-magpul-flat-dark.html The rifle barrel didn't fit in my oven very well, so I decided not to bake the rifle parts. I will have to try the touch up and see how that works. Thanks for that tip!

I’m not sure, I haven’t actually used the Magpul FDE.

The caps don't represent the color very well at all. I coated a lower in wolf gray which he knew was light gray from pictures so that wasn't an issue but the cap was dark gray borderline black. Definitely look at pictures of completed projects in a specific color, definitely don't go by the color of the cap.

Looking at the website, there is just one Coyote color. I noticed that Brownells added a Magpul FDE color that was not available back when I coated this gun.

I would say somewhere in between. It has a little more texture than Ceracoat when applied properly, but it doesn't feel or look like a spray paint coating like Krylon.

That seems to be the common theme in the comments. I definitely need to find a different one.

I used it to redo my ithaca model 37 featherlight. Turned out way better than expected. I highly recommend sanding/sand blasting every part to bare metal. Scrub everything with hot soapy water. Rinse, then scrub and clean with 91% alcohol. Do 4 to 5 light coats. Use a heat gun in between coats to help it along. Make sure you wait at least 48 hours before handling/reassembly. Cant stress the last part enough. Leave it be. Don't touch it. NO.

Also, it needs good warm air. A cold garage wont cut it. If your cold, their cold type of scenario.

Yes, this is a 6.8 SPC upper with the Alumahyde applied to the barrel.

I put mine in the oven when I sprayed it, but Brownell's doesn't require baking. They just recommend a longer curing time if you air dry it.

It is a DPMS Lopro designed without a forward assist or dust cover. It is also “beefier” to support heavy barrels.

Cerakote would be a great choice if your priority is durability.

Duracoat is about the best. My experience is its better than Cerekote. There is 1 better than both but you'll have to order it from Germany.

@@wilcoxtactical3716 OK I'm looking on duracoats website they have a lot of different products what ones are the best? What's the one from Germany called? Thanks for actually replying!!!

@@Or3guns EC NFM is what it's called but it's very difficult to get. Occasionally you'll find it on ebay. The EC NFM paint is NIR Compliant, which is very similar to what Cerekote calls Gen2 Cerekote or Stealth. Cerakote however won't sell it to anyone buy LE and military.

@@wilcoxtactical3716 Ceracoat won't sell their gen 2 to anyone outside the military? You think The EC NFM is better then anything duracoat has? Have you actually used it yourself?

@@Or3guns yes I have used both products. Both Duracoat and EC NFM are great products. If I had to say which one is better I would probably say Duracoat is only slightly for durability and scratch resistance but the EC NFM is true Camouflage and can be touched up easy if needed after extensive use. If you paint your rifle in Duracoat, Alumahyde, or regular Cerekote under night vision your rifle will reflect light...for lack of a better term, it glows. I guess it all depends on what you're wanting it for but weapons that need to be Camouflaged should perform as such IMHO which is why I choose the EC now. Yea Cerekote reserves their Stealth or Gen2 Cerekote to only military (not just active members of the military but actually on official government letterheads) and LE. Below are 2 vids for you to see what it's all about. m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZttoZ81zutbGlaM.html m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nMCedrGFyMzGcmg.html

That's a good idea. I've always just gone along with normal wear and tear being a sign that I actually use my guns. But that would be an easy solution.

It is the Coyote color.

I agree, this is an older video, I try to have more of that ready to go now.

Yeah, it’s not the best design.

They were still on the first version when I painted this rifle, I would certainly use the newer coating on the next.

@@AdventureColorado I've used it and sat a lower in lacquer thinner and it didnt come off.