Timeless information. Got me out of a pinch in 2022. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge and tip with the SS ruler.

Great info, thank you! Had a Norinco missing the barrel lock plunger and spring. Got my tools together, ready to go. Idea popped into my head. Screwed the lock ring slightly over the chamber end. With a spot of grease to hold the spring and plunger in, pushed them down on the ring. Started screwing the ring in while putting pressure on the lock ring. Worked perfectly, no tools needed.

Thank You!!! I was able to track down my missing parts...and after watching your video reassemble my auto. Without your slotted ruler idea I’d been sunk. Great Video.

Thank you for taking the time

Thanks for the information. I didn't have a rule to make the tool for the anvil, but I used a pair of forcept style of tweezers to hold the anvil straight and depress it as I slid it back. Worked like a champ. Great information and video.

Regarding the lock ring / threaded nut reassembly, no tool is needed. Simply wind the nut back to the receiver end, hook the anvil into the grooves, keeping pressure on it as you wind the lick nut towards the muzzle. Saves a lot of hassle.

Thank you, this was a tremendous help when I had to repair some missing parts in the barrel latch assembly. Your tool was of great use!

Onmilo, thank you for this video. I've been sitting around trying to think of a handy alignment tool for the barrel nut detent...and lo and behold, you had the most elegantly simple tool. Gonna make one up, today!!! Thank you, Sir!!!!

great info, I followed your instruction, and my SA22 rifle fit back perfect - no shaky barrel

Thanksnfor the tool tip

Wow....thanks! What looked like a semi-dreadful task of remounting the springs and anvil to the barrel adjustment ring was not. I got everything back together on the first attempt. Took your advice and used a thin cut-off wheel to make a slot in the end of a SS ruler to maneuver the anvil. I mounted the barrel in a gun cleaning vice and placed the entire works in the bathtub. With the shower curtain and wall providing backstops and the drain plugged, there was no worry about losing a spring or other small part. I also used head-mounted magnifiers with a bright light to see exactly what I was doing. Fortunately it all came together on the first try. A couple of ring clicks later and the barrel was mounted snuggly back on the receiver. Thanks again!

There is a big dimensional change between the Belgium and Japanese made SA-22s. The diameter of the tube magazine is bigger on the Japan and if you try to replace a Belgium tube with a Japan version you will have to drill out the stock to allow it to be inserted. I just learned this yesterday when watching another KZfaq video. That would require a long drill bit.

I have a Japanese model and the barrel will "shoot lose" even after making sure that the detent is in correctly. I've swapped the spring and the tension nut will still turn even with the latch in the locked position. The detent does not appear to be rounded. Suggestions?

Where can get the plunger spring? Because I lost mine when I taken apart.

Had a Japanese that was perfect and got rid of it like an idiot. Now have a Belgium and the ring won't turn as there is no spring in front and the anvil slides with the serrations. To adjust, you must remove the forearm, slide it forward enough to allow the ring to move, reset, then as you said, adjust to fit and back off just a smidge.

Nice tips on that pesky latch!

The new wood forend looks swell, never really did like the factory design, preferring something much sleeker in appearance without the checkering that is so easy to chip. I've been thinking about teak. I’ve had a lot of experience with dovetail joints. You can take two 3/16 or 1/4 inch brass plates with three sets of holes Drilled and tapped in them. (6 holes, 3 on each brass plate for 3 Allen screws) 4 holes(2 on each plate) are for clamping against the barrel using two Allen screws with cardboard between the brass and steel. The 3rd set of holes are for a 3rd screw which has a fired .22 casing on the end of the screw to keep from marring the steel. I have even super glued a round piece of leather to the end of the brass casing to further protect the steel. Simply screw and push the dove tail piece through the joint. This is the best method for any dovetail joint, sight adjustment and R&R on any dove tail joint. To elaborate on sights, like a tritium front sight, make a piece of brass to fit onto the "Shoulders" of the sight and install with modified vice grips that have a hole drilled one jaw with the drill bit shaft cut and installed there. Bingo! no $300 tool. And definitely no hammer on tritium. Anyway, a mini tool like that eliminates the use of a hammer on firearms. I just takes a couple hours to make it. speedymetals.com has any kind of brass and metal.

Anyone know where replacement stocks can be ordered for a Remington 24 manufactured Jan '33. Mine is hopeless

Olá tenho uma chinesa desta eu perdi o trava que vai no meio dela se parece com um anel tenho que ter um para tirar a mostra em um fleseiro ou torneiro como vc pode me ajudar

Hi Onmilo, I am having trouble with this little gun. When I pull back the bolt, all the cartridge just shoot out. Sometime it feed itself before I pull the bolt. i checked cartridge stop and spring, they looks fine. Should I just buy new stop and spring? Have you met this kind problem before?

I have a Norinco knock off of the Browning SA 22. It fires great but I can not correct a little back and forth wobble when the barrel has been installed. It seems like the take down latch does not have a snug fit in the slot that allows for a little back and forth movement of the entire assembly. And it does not fit snug into the receiving end of the trigger assembly. Can you recommend where these replacement parts can be purchased?

Informative, but wish I could find a video on how to do the adjustment on a Belgium model. The ring does not turn on those, you have do a balancing act of getting the plunger out far enough. I have to take it out but hear that isn't necessary.

My Miroku SA22 will not stay tight. After 50 rounds or so the barrel always gets loose.

Eu tenho uma desta e preciso da trava perdi a dela como o senhor pode me ajudar será que o senhor poderia pedir pra um torneiro ou um freseiro tirar ar medidas e mandar pra min

onmilo I have an issue with my sa-22. The carrier assembly does not seat against the end of the trigger assembly in normal operation. It typically stops a few millimeters from being fully seated requiring a forward assist from my thumb.. Additionally a curious amount of force is required to move the carrier backwards. I have removed all components from the rifle except for the stripped bare receiver and stock, carrier and trigger assembly including the recoil spring, firing pin and spring, loading rod, everything. I notice resistance occurring when the carrier is 3/4 of an inch away from the end of the trigger assembly and increases as it gets closer to being fully seated. Have you ever experienced this and do you have any recommendations?

I have a norinco model, will this part work? Mines different made

Wat if I have reasibled and anvil

Cuando un browning está flojo en el seguro de en medio cuando la falla

Appears the buttstock is off of a Remington 242. I guess a parts gun can shoot just as good as an Original

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I've owned 4 browning 22 auto's over the years ,all been great rifles,but the miroku is even better ,fabulous quality! ..lot of nostalgic bullshit talked about browning 22 auto's,but things move on .Miroku are one of the best quality massed produced firearm manufacturers in the world if not the best .

So many people copied this rifle. It's not even funny..Even Norinco made a knock off it...