There are a lot still coming, stay tuned!

Yep, you would need a lathe...

Yes, they can be REALLY tight in there. I've always had good luck with a high quality allen key. if you don't have a 'nice' set of allen keys, this might be the time to at least try some out. They really can make a huge difference. I've opened up a couple dozen motors and never had an issue when using my good set of allen keys. But I really should have mentioned that heat always helps. Penetrating oil can help too.

I most likely could have gotten by just using a spacer between the pulley and where the motor mounts. The motor wouldn't be able to go anywhere because of the pulley. BUT, I figured I would at least show it, in case anyone else wants to add the groove.

Hello. Can anyone here help me? I took apart a brushless tool, just to spin the housing and reorient the power button, and I can't put it back together, lol. There is a rubber ring in the bottom of the housing that the coil slides into, and the bearing sits in that ring, but I can't get the shaft past the magnetic housing, into the center, the magnet housing is too strong???/ Any ideas? ...please :/ lol peace

Yep, I'm cleaning up the workshop and getting back to the stratasys! I won't have any videos on it for awhile, but I am currently doing some research and purchasing parts and will resume working on it. it will be the next project I tackle.

awesome!

truth. that's why I try and avoid using them on motors.

Necro spammers, die!

Adam L I have rounded the grub screw on my motor. What do you recommend I do to get it out so I can replace the prop shaft?

Better to have a flat theyre stronger. Ive seem a flat combined woth a 2.5mm through hole where the set screw was also a through pin. The combination makes it impossible to slip.😅

If they aren't made in Meadville they are not Channellock.

That would be an inrunner motor.

well, there is most likely some sort of prop adapter. many quadcopter motors don't really rely on a shaft, but rather use some sort of adapter for the prop.

Eh, that depends... Your best bet is to try and drill it out, but that can be tricky. If it's stuck in there, you could try using superglue on the end of a hex driver or something, but it probably won't want to come out. If it's large enough, screw extractors work well (just search for them on amazon or wherever), but if it's too small, you might need to drill them out.

Thank you! Well done videos, love when someone does a professional job

William Keller I hint for next time. Use a pointy ended soldering iron placed on/in the set screw to soften the thread lock that was used to keep it from vibrating out. Then go easy applying force with the Allen wrench.

Wera hex plus

What's PTO? I'm not familiar with that acronym. There's just a set screw on these, which I've later changed. The original design didn't allow for a hex shaft.

At 20 seconds, I literally say exactly what it is.

Generally, yes.

same here! but I don't have a bigger one, mine is limited to around 4" or so. The arbor press was a good addition to the shop.

Ture, but could those motors even produce enough torque to twist shear an 8mm axel?

I have the Harbor Freight version of this: www.grizzly.com/products/9-x-19-Bench-Lathe/G4000 It's OK, I got it cheap on craigslist. I don't use a lathe much, so it works well for what I need, but if I start doing more parts on it, I might upgrade.

possible, yes! worthwhile, no. they will most likely fight each other.

@@RobertCowanDIY why will they fight each other if they are spinning the same direction. I'm new to this sory

@@theideasman6018 Slight inconsistencies in their speed. They won't move at exactly the same rate, so they could fight each other. I have used dual motors before, but with belt drive. You can certainly try it and see what happens, but it's generally frowned upon. In short... brushless motors need a driver (ESC) to spin. That driver tells them how fast to move by pulsing to the phases (the motors have 3 phases). The speed at which the pulses are sent tells the motor how fast to spin. If the two ESCs are slightly out of sync, or if the windings aren't identical, you could get them moving at slightly different speeds. If one is moving slower than the other, it would be braking the other, creating excess heat.

@@RobertCowanDIY thanks man. I've set up/modafide two 2205/2300 motors to slide on to one shaft. Each motor is running a 20a opto esc off a pdb on 4s. What do you think will go wrong first. Just old parts off a drone. Bit of fun really

Let's say you have 2 spinners, one smaller than the other, mounted coaxially on a robot. One spinner has a large hollow shaft that the other shaft passes through. Both spinners would be belt driven. You spin one of them at say 60 revolutions per second and the other one at 59 revolutions per second. The slight speed difference will show up as a stroboscopic type effect, causing it to appear to spin slowly. Bonus points if the lighting is at 60hz and you modulate the speed of the spinners to produce a 1-2hz beat frequency (also causing it to look like it's spinning slowly)

@@eformance 😵

I think these have 8mm shafts.

Right?! I probably should have used the mill, but this was just quicker and easier. Sometimes I just use the tools that are closest ;-)

I also have a mill but I don`t want my soft and nicely calibrated slides attacked by diamond or sand particals that create permanent defect! He may be doing because of that!

I mention this in the video...