Kyle noseworthy very nice work but I'm not a fan of buck knives as they use 420 steel I go no lower than 440 I owns two case knives they are fantastic for my spoon carving and cleaning my caught rabbits for pot I also use flexcut jack knives comes razor sharp out the box greeting from UK England near London 🐾🐺👍:-)

Hi, looking for someone to make some really good whitetail buck shed antler scales for my Buck Folding Alpha Hunter (279). I have the antler that will be used, but I don't have the tools to cut and shape them. The rest of the knife is in really good shape, and you can use the original rubber scales to shape them with. Let me know if you are willing to take this on, I can send photos of the knife and antler, and you can quote me a price. Very little polishing will be needed, except on the edges of the scales.

I think it's funny with all the talk about him blowing his nose that is named as Noseworthy

@@randompunkrockfox6867 420 is better than 440c loll

Hey man don't catch a cold just to do a job. www.homedepot.com/b/Heating-Venting-Cooling-Heaters-Space-Heaters-Electric-Heaters/N-5yc1vZc4lo

I opted for a Schrade LB7 as well. My wife at the time gifted it to me as an anniversary gift in 1981. Still have it today. I preferred the LB7 over the Buck 110 because the finish was much more refined. For instance, the rivets along with the pin were flush with the scales, and the mechanics of blade open and close were smoother and solid, as it is today :)

Thanks so much David. They are an iconic knife, that's for sure. A buffing wheel is most beneficial for these projects. All of the rest of the job can be done by hand, sanding with various grits. However, you'll never make that brass and bone gleam without a buffing wheel!

David, if you have had your 110 for 45 years, it may be very collectible as is. Please look up the Buck date codes to see when it was made. I can't recall exactly when the date codes began -- probably around 1970. If so, yours is very collectible as is.

Beautiful work. I have owned a 110 for about 40 years Aaaalblmà😊qv❤ hey a😢

Dennis, buy and older one and upgrade. Why mess with a perfect brand new one?!? (My 2 cents on your knife.)

Thank you David! Welcome to my channel!

not that easy..

Thanks so much Scott!

​@@kyle_noseworthy👌will you provide the web for those Buffalo horn sacales? Tks

exactly if you can find them dentist drills are amazingly precise tungsten carbide cuts a bit too good

Thanks!

Thanks Eddie!

Millbank Bags USA I couldn’t be happier... Just a wonderful job. 👍

Thank you Gary! Also, I like your thumbnail pic!

thank you!

Awesome!

interesting!

that's super interesting! The toner doesn't degrade the epoxy at all?

Kyle Noseworthy - Weiderfan , nope, I like the jet black colour for a lot of jobs, no downside at all !! I've heard you can mix in kids poster paint (dry powder type) for a range of colours,, but that's on my list of stuff to try !! Recently found your channel ,, keep up the good work buddy !!

Great tip. I think I might try toner in ca glue and baking soda for repair. Super nice work absolutely beautiful

You can mix in the dust produced by sanding the material you are working with. The correct colour is always to hand.

A few years back I attended an inlay class with David Marks in Santa Rosa CA and Larry Robinson (he does much of Martins super high end work). Being a novice neither my routing nor my cutting were very accurate. But CA glue and wood/bone dust do a great job of filling in any gaps between the inlay and substrate. Won’t improve the accuracy of what was cut, but you won’t have gaps. Soooo.. If you have a similar issue with scale material and bolsters such as are on the Buck 110 worry not, you can fix it with CA glue and dust from sanding...

Thanks! I'm glad

Thank all of you for watching Mark! I wouldn't have anything here without you guys!

Man, I'd love to see pictures of that one! If you're able, email me a few! weiderfan.business@gmail.com

Happy Easter man!

thanks Keith!

Yep, awesome!!