Is yours a hydraulic stow? Could be a line for that leaking. There's a long cylinder that pushes the boom out and at the end of the cylinder rod is a nut that holds it to the outer boom. If you have to rebuild the cylinder extend it out far enough to remove the nut which can be tricky to remove because the rod will spin you have to kind of bind it up I pushed the boom against something solid while I loosened the nut. Then the bottom of the cylinder is held in the lower boom with some bolts and remove the hoses and pull it out the lower boom. The only problems I had getting the outer boom out was the adjustable wear plastic screws they were frozen in with rust.

In this video, you refer to the upper boom, is that the same as inner boom? Terminology, clarifying.

I am arms deep into this exact thing right now for the same reasons on a tuck I just got. My wires are destroyed, my airline is holy, and my hydraulic lines are almost worn through. I wish he showed more detail in this video, but I got it sorted out. For anyone looking at this later: disconnect all the control wiring at the valves, pull your air line up the center (if equipped), disconnect your 120v line at the box and feed it up the center also (if equipped). There are a few covers that will need removed to do all this. Disconnect the bucket leveling lines under the boom where the union is (if equipped). Slide the inner boom out all the way and lower it as low as it will go so the bucket is on the ground. I removed the bucket (easier to pull the inner boom out with 2 people). Use the small access home on the driver side of the inner boom to access the nut on the end of the rod (1 1/8" size). Loosen the slide adjusters all the way if you can. I had to destroy 2 of mine. Remove the control plate at the end of the inner boom (if so equipped) to access all the wires and lines. I then pulled everything out of the inner boom. There will be a few zip ties and bolts holding some of this in at spots. Then pull the inner boom out. I found if it gets hung up at the very end, pry the boom upward and use a screwdriver in the hole at the bottom of the outer boom to pop the lower plastic slide. It is just sitting in a grove there. Then it will not catch the slide attached to the back of the inner boom. I removed the inner end slide after it catching and not knowing this. Just ordered everything to replace it all. They only will sell 5 of the adjustable slides at once, stupid money grab this company is. We will see how it goes putting it all back together. Trying to figure out how to get that ram back into the hole when it goes back together as mine wants to sit in the bottom of the boom. I bought 10 meters of wire track, but it looks like you will need just under 4 meters. Something else I would have liked to know.

@@bassntruck are you doing a video of your project?

@@winginitwithjohn8451 I was not making a video of it. I stopped posting videos a while ago. I tried to find any information about this and there is very little out there. I could take some footage showing what I am talking about as it is still currently all apart and stich it together. My truck is a rusty mess and was not at all as described before I drove 6 hours to get it. But that mess is a whole other story on its own. I take it your truck is still needing this all done to it?

@@bassntruck yes, still in tact, not started the removal yet.

@@winginitwithjohn8451 Oh how I opened Pandora's box when working on this truck. Almost 2 months later and it is still apart. Now many of these issues may just be because of the life my truck had before I came along. I am now just starting to put it back together. I had to remove the lower outer boom also because of a very large amount of slop at the hinge pin. It looked like the bushing had worn through. Well after beating the pin for 2 days with a 20-pound sledge, I got it out. The bushings were indeed shot but the passenger side one was missing at the bottom and had been metal on metal for who knows how long. It had also caused the pin to rust and pit heavily where that bushing would have been. The other hole had corrosion and more than I thought as it caused one of the new bushings to shatter when pressing it in. After boring out the rust in drivers side the bushing is no longer press fit and loose. So, I had to wind up buying 3 bushings and 1 new pin. The passenger bushing is in, and I will be epoxying the driver's side one. I doubt it will ever need another if this one lasted this long in daily service for most of its life. I also ordered every hose on the unit. Mine were pretty bead up and showing lots of outer wear. I know one would have popped when I would use it when I least needed it to. I have installed almost all the new hoses so far. I am also completely rebuilding the extend boom cylinder while I have it out. Also doing the bucket tilt/stow cylinders. I don't want to ever have to pull the boom apart again. Once I get the cylinders rebuilt, I will put the last few hoses on. Then I will start putting all the hoses and wires in the new tracking and install it in the inner boom and reinstall it. My end plate where the airline comes out has most of the threads corrode. So, I had to redrill and tap the holes (airline and blank) to 3/4" and use reducers for the new airline and I am adding a pressure washer hose in the boom with it. And this just touched on what I have done to the boom system itself. I have already well exceeded the purchase price of the unit many times over. I got it relativity "cheap" upfront, but I think I still paid far too much. And that doesn't count any labor cost which I am in it for so many hours I can't recall. I will never get "my money" out of this truck in selling it. It is going to have to earn its return from here on out.

You might not need to pull it all apart like mine. If its the extend cylinder you might just have to loosen the nut at the end then unbolt the base of the cylinder and pull the cylinder out the front. My jlg manlift has a leaking extend cylinder and that's what I plan on doing.

I unhooked the hoses and the plastic chain my wiring was almost cut completely so I just finished cutting and installed a 20 pin waterproof connector incase I ever need to remove it again. Then I removed the nut off the end of the cylinder inside the tube and then I removed 4 of the adjusting plastic wear pins the top side and right side ones and pulled the inner boom out with a loader on my tractor. I had a second tractor loader under the boom for support when it came out. Near the end before it came out I had to wiggle it around because there are other wear pads on the inner boom that can hang up ad get it stuck a little. Hope this helps.

The cable chain I got off eBay used for about $27 and the plastic pad sheet was $10 and a 12 inch stock of plastic for the adjustable wear guides was about $30. The manufacturer does sell the pads and guides but are a lot more than getting off eBay. I have yet to permanently hook up all the wires just wire tied thinking of putting a 20 pin connector in so I can unhook the wiring if I need to remove the boom in the future. If you can do it yourself you can save some money.

Thanks for the information, I appreciate the information you gave me

Are you talking about the inner boom cylinder? The end of the cylinder has a nut that you unthread.